Leaderboard

As I,v heard that bergeon tool will work well to your satisfaction. Slight tapping on the end that is out always helps (crossed thread too) use a puch or staking tool, any controlled tap.

Arbor with Broken screw.After the screw has been drilled outMy Lathe with the tale stock drill bit. The process is to put the movement in a three jaw plate holder. Then find center with a graver and create a cone with an absolute center. Then, using circuit board drill bits, find a size just smaller than the diameter of the broken screw. When you drill through , it will leave a hollow screw that will crack when pried slightly with the tip of a screw driver. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

This newly serviced Unitas movement calibre 6380 suffers from too low amplitude. Dial up about 225°, dial down about 245°, and about 200° in all other positions. I’ve went through my list of possible causes but couldn’t find anything obvious. Then I remembered that Mark Lovick in his watch repair lessons mentions that “too much lock may reduce the power available for impulse” and I suspect this could cause too low amplitude? I don’t have enough experience to determine if what I see in the pictures is too much lock, but I assess that the amount of lock to about 1/3 to 1/2 of the width of the impulse face, and I believe that could be too much even for this calibre? So, if there’s too much lock and it affects the amplitude, two questions arise; what could have caused it and what would be a practical remedy?

What are they like compared to a BFG866 ? I would think pretty similar in terms of robustness. In my opinion, the BFG866 is more of a faf to put back together.

A 17 Jewel "superflat" EB88XX (EB 8805) based dress watch with the rather strange moniker "Dimetron". This arrived in a fairly sad condition, scratched up, fully wound, and locked up unable to set the hands, and of course filthy, but the sunburst blue dial made it almost irresistible. Well that and the strange name of course. I have absolutely no idea who actually produced it, but following its service and clean, it pretty classy. The most tricky thing about servicing the EB8805 is the date mechanism, which can be a little bit of a head-scratcher, but other than re-fitting that, things went without a hitch. No flying springs or mysterious vanishings. This EB88XX lacks the balance shock protection, but is fully jeweled. The photograph doesn't do it justice, it has a very nice shimmer to the dial, and the slight wear to the plating is almost invisible under normal lighting. The crystal is the worlds worst dust magnet, but I'm going to give that a further polish anyway, then I'll give it a scoot with the glass cleaning spray and that should settle down. This is the original crystal, cleaned and polished. I'm in two minds about the strap it is currently on. That may get swapped for something a little more formal. It is of course a fully paid up member of the 404 club.

Welcome to the frustrating world of hunting parts You could also try Ofrei to save the international postage as they have assorted sizes here http://www.ofrei.com/page1009.html Jules Borel lists them by movement type so for this movement you need their stock number 5101/92 http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=Y]ZFVMU They say the are $3.80 which sounds great until you try to buy one and then the stock code comes back as “not found”. They may be able to supply if you call them. But... that page on Jules Borel does tell you that the Omega part number is 2704. If you go to Cousins, they do list the original Omega part on their page for cal 266, but nowhere does it tell you what screw 2704 is used for, and they are £10 each. There is a seller on eBay selling them for €4 each - not sure what your postage from Belgium will be though (search “Omega screw 2704”) You can find other suppliers in the “resources” page on this site.

Here is part of my Seiko chronograph collection. From left to right: 1. 1975 with the 6139 caliber: The first automatic chronograph in the world in 1969 and also the first automatic chronograph known to be worn in space by the general Pogue in 1973. 2. 1983 with the 7A28 caliber: The first quartz chronograph with analog display in the world. 3. 1993 with the 6M15 caliber: Not sure if it's the first of anything but it has very interesting features like the chronograph with dancing hands. It was also created to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the discovery of the Americas. 4. 1992 with the 6M23 caliber: Another Seiko used in space, a "Space Navigator" worn by a Japanese astronaut during an US shuttle mission. 5. 2007 with the 7T62 caliber: Not much to say about this Seiko but it's the watch I wear when I am at home or sleeping. 6. 2013 with the V172 caliber: My most recent watch and also the only one that never gives the right time. Not sure what is wrong but the hour hand turns slower than the other ones. I have to use the buttom sub dial to check the right time.

The best is Cousins you need to measure one of the screws and I am sure they will have them. Its really best to have their catalogue to browse. The only problem, I tend to spend more money whenever I browse,

Seiko 5206-5080 LM

Here in all it's chrome plated glory. A lorsa p72 powered werna..I never hearda werna..anyone have a clue?

the screw asochated with may be left hand thread. if that is so and 1/2 the screw head is broken off -- and down tight ! if so, it is a good time to learn; use penitrating oil and HEAT. cheers vin

jdrichard, Very cool - thanks for posting. And nice macro photography.

Just taking a W.A.G. here,that watch looks like a late sixties diver style watch.I am thinking it is probably the original crown.

I have a screw press from China which wasn’t very expensive (45gbp from Redrooster) and learnt (as you have) that they should be used to both remove and fit mineral glasses. As long as they aren’t damaged then the crystal gaskets can be re used.

I know it’s against the grain restoring a vintage watch but I have OCD and the slightest mark or blemish has to go and putting it back to original condition is the only way for me sorry. It’s going to be for me and not for a customer so original Lume colour is a must. So what colour green is my next dilemma, looking on Cousins shop the green Lume looks about right, what do you think? The watch has a good service history which is probably why there is no lume left on the hands but the markers have gone black so PPE will be worn when I remove it, thanks for the advice. The watch has an expanding strap but not sure if that’s an original, any ideas what it might be?

This catalogue may help to I.D the clock: http://www.hells-confetti.com/Technical data/Jaeger Instruments/British Jaeger Dashboard Instruments.pdf

Hi A picture/photo of the clock will help members, Is there a caliber number on the movement, usually under the balance or on the plate, again these are helpful.

Hi, Welcome.

I sound that some drawbars I have which are quite worn-in are not fussy at all about slight differences in 8mm threads. The biggest variability you will likely find among 8mm collets is the condition. Idiots use an incorrect size and either crush them or over-expand them, leaving them wrecked.

measure the thread diameter, count the threads per inch and look it up in the machinery handbook. cheers vin

Hi LNM I had the same problem. I have identified that the only practical option is a quartz movement. You wont find a mechanical that is the same size. I found that the original movement was just over 11 1/2 ligne. The only quartz movement that I know of that is correctly sized is the.......bam badabam.... Hattori VX42 Movement https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/HATTORI-VX42.html It is a cheap $6 movement by Seiko from cousins. it has a exactly fitting date wheel - it fits perfectly. The dial feet even fit the movement however the crown is then offset. Option - transplant the dial feet OR cut the feet off and use dial dots/adhesive OR drill new holes in the movement for the dial feet. The hour and seconds hand fits. Sadly the minute hand doesnt fit - I suggest either using a different hand set or broaching out the omega minute hand. The movement has a good positive feel, great timekeeping - is japanese quality and common as a dime a dozen from the supply houses. You will thank me when you try one Good luck

Ideally your dial-up and dial down amplitude should be the same. If it is not it can be an indication of pivot problems. Then from your pictures of the fork it looks like there's a little room behind each of the stones you just have to move them back a little bit. Then if you know what the look for its amazing what you can find by doing a search in case you don't know what the tool looks like for moving a pallet stones. https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/8699-pallet-stone-replacement/

The lock looks very heavy. Whether it's due to the jewels being too far out or the bankings being too open is impossible to say just looking like that. Does it have banking pins? Are they straight?

I was born in the summer of '69 but my grandfather died when i was only 5. Don't remember him too well. I found this small clock while searching for some old certificates. He used to give them as a stocking fillers to his clients with the company name etched into the plinth. I thought that after all these years no way would it work. Wound it, felt ok setting time and has been going since this morning. I shall keep this on my bedside table as a reminder. Only one jewel