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AlexeiJ1 last won the day on December 2 2017

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  1. I have had this happen to some watches. First try remove the stem. Then as you are reinserting it, rotate it a bit left to right to make sure it goes into the castle gear bit. Then if it goes in all the way, give the release lever a few presses whilst gently wiggling (very gently) the crown stem in and out (just a hair, less than 0.1mm). Then try and pull the stem out so as to set the time, then push it back in. It should be back to normal. If not you can either remove the dial and hands as mentioned, or alternatively remove the automatic winding assembly, then remove the mainspring barrel bridge and try and reseat the castle gear and other bits onto the setting lever. As I hate removing hands on expensive watches, I usually go this route. Good luck!
  2. Great work! There are a number of people in the industry/hobby who shout about Rolex's needing to go to a Authorized Rolex Service. From experience - most industry workshops be it in cars, computers or watches are staffed by 16 year old apprentices or elderly idiots who have lost their marbles. I don't trust workshops, I wouldn't even bring a $10 timex for a battery change to them. Good on you for bucking the trend and doing the work yourself! You've done better than most service places.
  3. Hiya Pip. I will keep an eye out. I'm looking for another one too as I have 1 more donor one to fix. Your LCD looks to have a small crack in it. I am afraid the parts will not come up easily as they are always the first part to crack. I think that people are a bit rough putting the battery in, or there is no shock protection on the case back when it is pressed in, resulting in a crack to the glass. They are great watches, I've seen a few changes hands recently for only $100.
  4. If you are willing to cover shipping, I could take a look at it down under (Australia). It is likely that the workshop is full of it. A mate had a Girard with a broken Balance staff which he was quoted $1000 to fix and 12 months wait. I fixed it for $20 for genuine balance. A lot of these top end places just dont want to deal with this due to risk of something breaking later so they give you crazy prices to keep you away. For what its worth, alot of parts in watches are brass/stainless/plated so they don't rust very much. There is usually a sacrificial part such as mainspring or movement ring which rusts and causes a lot of debris. I took a AS movement which was soaked in salt water and brought it back to life by soaking parts in WD40, then vinegar and coke. I fixed a Wyler which looked 10x worse than your watch, all it needed was cleaning and gentle care. Cheers.
  5. SO I have stripped it down, I will chrome the bezel. Get a new battery - refit all the seals and buy a strap. Updates will be in 2-3 weeks Oh yeah and will have to respray the case silver
  6. So I was at the local sunday market today, and happened upon a weird little digital watch. I normally avoid them, but this one was a pulsar and it caught my eye. It was missing the strap - the seller was a big old man in his 60's selling knick knacks like beer glasses. He was asking $5 - I tried bargaining down to $4 but no cigar. I scored the digital watch and a Russian 9micron Gold plated Zarya with 16 jewels in running order (ladies watch). In Australia it is quite hard to find anything other than ladies watches because there are hundreds of blokes going around to all the thrift shops and buying up the gents watches. As most men over 40 here are divorced - they have nobody to buy ladies watches for and hence normally I have my pick. This was a lucky score to find a unisex/mens watch - I knew from straight away that it was something interesting - It had a large screen with many buttons, I initially thought it had a HR monitor or excercise function. From research it cost around $200 US in 1999 and was quite a trendy watch at the time. It is powered by a Seiko module with a pulsar assembly in "China". I got it home and started having a good look: According to another watch blog, it has the following features: Other modes are: - address book - memo/messages - chronograph - timer - alarm The full model number is: W440-4000 Beautiful working module Very grubby - but it is 100% complete minus the strap. It is a plastic/resin body with a base metal brass bezel that is chrome plated. It has resin/abs pushbuttons that are fully spring and water sealed. It has a stainless steel case back with a waterproof seal. I plan to replate the chrome. Spotless back - apart from minor marks. These watches were designed to be serviceable. Not like modern rubbish which is sealed for life. This beauty was able to be stripped down to the bare nuts and circlips. Starting to ease the buttons out. Mint original glass- will gently polish it thats it. (Mineral glass) Spring bars for the assembly. A little trick I use to remove circlips. A photo of the module Nice and clean AN old article about the watch from Popular Mechanics;
  7. All up it owes me around $110 + $50 for the crystal. Not bad considering I know its an honest watch with several parts replaced (LCD + Crystal + case back gasket) - rather than buying an unknown watch on ebay for $800 which could have a cracked dial.
  8. What's up WRT peeps! I finally have some updaaaaaaaaaaatees The story with the watch above was that it needed a case back and a replacement LCD panel. I have been watching eBay for a while, there have been 3 watches sold since: $850, $450, $280 for working examples. The former of which was a mint example. The prices have doubled from 3 years ago, where a mint NOS example cost $300-400. Anyway - I bought a nice B grade donor watch which was 100% complete, however it had a cracked/bleeding LCD panel. It only cost me $25 from germany (eBay) which is surprising because nobody else bid on it. Luckily I knew that Northern Watch Clock Co had a 4510-841 replacement LCD panel for sale for 15 gbp. It was the correct panel for the donor watch as the original had the dark dial which was possible rarer? I ordered the part, after paying an absolutely eye watering 25GBP for postage, (it arrived with an 8gbp postage stamp - 14 days after ordering.waaat...). It wasn't packed that well considering how incredibly rare this part is. Cousins as an example posted me a 30x30x30cm carboard box just for a mainspring - atleast it was protected haha!!! https://imgur.com/uOMXVxu.jpg[/img]
  9. AlexeiJ1

    Bone pile 1968 Timex Marlin Restore

    Great work! I have a Timex Cal 100 (M100) ladies watch that had a worn winding ratchet pawl which flung off. Any chance you have a spare m100 with the little spring that sits near the barrel? Tried epoxying a shepard hook onto the mainplate but it slips sometimes. (Ha!)
  10. AlexeiJ1

    Wyler Vetta High dome crystal

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GS-PA-Round-Replacement-Crystals-for-Wyler-Gruen-Helbros/161242066021?hash=item258ac6ac65:m:muA2omvlSGV5TgsfiCzYr0A Would this Wyler 31.85mmm crystal fit?
  11. Hi Everyone, I was recently given a Wyler Vetta (ETA 32) watch with a stuffed movement and ratty case + crystal. I've since serviced it and de-rusted it, waiting on some lume for the hands, cleaned up the case. The man who gave it to me is dying from cancer, and it means a lot to me to fix it as he is like a grandfather to me (I'm only 25 in this hobby). My dillemma is the crystal! I've ordered a 32mm GHD crystal for $30 with postage and it turned out to be to small on the inner edge but too large on the outer. Can anyone advise based off the measurements? The inner diameter of the crystal was 30.6mm Outer diameter is 31.85mm or so. The inner bezel ring sits just on the dial, so that makes no difference. The tension ring inner diameter is approximately 31.9 The crystal I got was from tiptopcrystals: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/G-S-XHD-EXTRA-HI-DOME-18-35-24-1mm-35-2mm-Round-Extra-High-Dome-Watch-Crystal/191801252753?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=490828457029&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 It was the 32mm GS XHD 30.1/2 Should I go for a slighly larger from same seller or ATG Sternkreuz from cousins? Can anyone suggest sizes. I tried milling down the tip top crystal with a scalpel however ended up wrecking both he sent me.
  12. AlexeiJ1


    Interesting watches. I love vintage dive watches. Bezels are indeed a pain. I can refinish a case, but do not have the equipment to restore a bezel. Has anyone ever done this?
  13. Hi Everyone, I'm an amateur watch tinker - I've serviced about 15 watches succesfully. I started on a mate's Pagol with an ETA 2790 - and I happened to lose 2 springs when they flung off!!!!!!!!!!! FAAAAAAAAAAAAARK! Anyway - I'm sure that I can buy stock in bulk somewhere hopefully - my mate will kill me if he finds out, I need the U shaped spring that's on the auto winder ratchet and on the date wheel ratchet. I've tried a few random ones from other swiss movements and none fit. Any suggestions? What is the official name? Anyone have any knocking around in their parts bin? Cheers
  14. The progress update is coming. I'm just waiting on some time to reassemble the bridge and main gears. The old photocopied charts are shite and you can barely see it. Due to the rust I didnt photograph the original.
  15. Hi Everyone, Recently I have become obsessed with ana digi watches from the 1980's! I really dig the style for some reason. I was looking on ebay in the low price ranges and I found this little nugget for the princely sum of $5.70 - the shipping from Peru was an inflated $20 AUD - so I got away with it for under $30. It came well packed in a little padded envelope. It was missing the back, had severe damage, but I didn't see any rust stains on the back. A view from the side It is a Seiko H127A-5000 - the year could be between 1979 and 1980 - there is a little bit of info around the internet. The case back will be an insanely rare part to find so I may have to CNC mill something or potentially 3d print a plastic back. That is if I can get it working. The Crystal is trash. I've tried sanding it, will wait till I have some crystal polish - I haven't had much luck polishing mineral crystals. A new crystal is around $35 - with OEM Seiko writing. I removed the movement and soaked it in WD40 to loosen all the bolts. It was too seized to attempt opening. The LCD panel/dial has a crack in it. The sub assembly appears clean, the zebra strips on the LCD were a bit gummed up but cleaned up. Happily the analogue movement was turning over freely, it wasn't ticking - but likely due to so much grit and much on the contacts. The only corrosion was on the rotor, and some of the non important chrome plated parts. I've soaked them in shellite. Cleaned with blutac and then inspected under microscope. Everything appears fine. It is a very high end movement with 8 jewels and all metal parts - it would have been top of the line back in the day. Very tiny parts. The main circuit board is out - my it looks complicated. Simple plain jane movement - nothing fancy: It's all inside: The bridge is off and the rotor is next to the movement: Cleaning the case: Tonight I have finished cleaning everything - I have put it into my movement parts tray - awaiting some time after work tommorow. If anyone knows how the LCD works please let me know - is the display in the top dial section? Or the next layer down? There is a white mirror presumably to reflect the light off the screen as this is the black model version (there were two models). Parts look pricey and rare - I've found a dial panel NOS - also crystals online. May have to look for circuit board if its fried - Can't find any bracelets - may have to go non OEM generic steel band. Goal is to get it running - if its not running - atleast to be a show piece in my cabinet. More soon