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AlexeiJ1

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AlexeiJ1 last won the day on December 2 2017

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About AlexeiJ1

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  1. Cousins have these: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/rectangularsquare-sternkreuz-rx I'd buy 1 or 2 that are sized appropriately and gently sand edges down. You won't find the certina glass.
  2. AlexeiJ1

    seiko 7t32

    cleaning I use hot water and ammonia mix. Then I rinse in shellite for a few seconds (careful with plastic). I use moebius 9010 on the quartz gears in a 7t32. Grease on the keyless sections. However they are hugely complex and particularly not expensive, replacements are around 60$. I give up servicing them as its not worth 3 hours of labour on plastic. 7A28 is another story and worth servicing.
  3. AlexeiJ1

    Omega 1337 help

    Hi all - got an update. I bought a basket case 1332 movement - complete circuit board with a missing battery contact tab. SO I trouble shooted and initially transplanted component by component - however it appears that either the IC failed or the quartz crystal. I eventually moved the 1332 board into the movement and it works fine. Can't set the minutes however think thats a contact issue. Cheers for the help!
  4. AlexeiJ1

    Omega 1337 help

    Thanks John, it looks like my coil might be bad as its reading low at 1.8 kohm. Could that be it? I dont have an AliTest for the electrical test.
  5. AlexeiJ1

    Omega 1337 help

    Thanks John, I didn't have Omega's guide - I just used moebius 9010 on the oiling spots and I followed the guide from another member on this forum. The circle part isn't a test point but it was a coincidence that I noticed that it got the movement going. Its a bit bizarre. The time setting switch isn't shorting out, it works correctly - the case closes the circuit with the mainboard pin when the time button is pressed, normally it is open. Is there something I'm not doing. I gently oiled the lower jewel of the motor. turning the movement by hand with an oiler feels right, the usual gearbox type feel. The fact that I can advance it gears means that the motor isn't stuffed? The only thing I'm willing to try is a replacement circuit board. Otherwise may have to buy a donor watch for $300 or so.
  6. AlexeiJ1

    Omega 1337 help

    Hi Everyone, I recently bought a 196.0230 Omega Seamaster 120m Quartz. It had a messed up bezel but clean crystal and dial. The movement had one tiny mark of acid damage on the plastic battery spacer, otherwise all clean. It was quite clean however wouldnt run so I cleaned and serviced it. It all moves freely and the coil has a resistance of about 1.8kohm. The circuit is clean, I cleaned a mark of corrosion off the battery tab (superficial). the traces all pass conductivity, there are really only 3 parts on the board (8 pin IC, variable cap/resistor rate trimmer, diode). I cant get the movement to work. I noticed that when I hold the case with my hands and touch the part below on the board, it advances 1 second at a time. Tapping it quickly advances even quicker: As you know the circuit boards are obsolete, I am looking for one and will buy one happily if people suggest that is the problem. Also looking for a good gold or stainless bezel: 082ST0041 If anyone has a hookup with Omega let me know, Cheers Alex
  7. AlexeiJ1

    Change battery cheap quartz

    Can you try and remove that rear hatch? I'd try some double sided tape and then suddenly pull on the crystal to remove it. I'd hold off pulling the stem unless you know how it works. Also try remove the strap, maybe something hiding behind there!
  8. AlexeiJ1

    Help identifying movements

    No idea regarding movements. A watch is a watch. You can strip them down to parts, photograph the order. Clean in hot water and ammonia, then dip in shellite. Black Moebius grease for barrel and mainspring. Moebius 8000 for slow moving parts and 9010 for fast moving parts like escape wheel. Pallet lever doesnt require oil usually. 9010 on both ends of balance staff. I usually put a bit of oil on tip of screwholes to prevent seizing. There is nothing else to it for older watches, you won't find obscure service guides unless they are ETA, Omega, Rolex, or similar movements. The main thing is strict cleanliness and robust cleaning technique, Newer more high performance watches require adherence to service charts for optimum performance between service. An ETA 2836 for example will benefit from correct grease to pallet jewels, high speed oil for high speed parts. Correct grease/oils in keyless and date mechanism. Mainspring either gets grease or no grease depending on the watchmaker (I use grease). Chronographs again require more thought for moving parts. A good start is to google "Moebius Oil chart for watch movements" - it goes through different size movements and oil recommendations. When I started with cheap watches such as the ones you posted, I only used Moebius 8000 as it was cheap and fits all purpose. Service interval atleast 2 years (many watches still running to spec with 8000). I'd soak the cases in ammonia and water to remove sediment, then polish gently by hand with Autosol or a buffing compound. The crystals will need soak in above to remove crud, then sand with 400/800/1200/1500/2000 (wet sand) and then polish with PolyWatch (found on eBay). The best way to glue them back in is with GS Crystal glue (ebay as well). Straps are either ebay or Cousins (the open ended ones for the 2nd watch can be hard to find, ebay is okay - look for "open ended leather strap"). Feel free to ask more questions.
  9. Brilliant. I found a similar Seiko, it was 50 cents at a market. 7546 movement, nearly identical. It had a stuffed crystal. absolutely filthy case/movement back, corroded battery, etc, etc. Missing end link from strap. However after cleaning it gently and using rodico on the dial, I was able to create a wonderful watch worth wearing. The patina on the dial is just amazing. The green oxidation from the plated crystal ring and the brown rust from the crown wheel/keyless make it look like a oyster shell. Really nice look. The only problem is the movement number got worn off the dial, but you can still see JAPAN MADE. I havent stripped the movement yet but I blew it out and oiled it with 9010 and has been running +1 sec/day for nearly a year now. The crystal cost a whopping $3 from Cousins. End link was 25 cents.
  10. AlexeiJ1

    Omega 26.5 T3

    To be honest you won't find a balance wheel easily. It is not a watch to learn maintenance on unfortunately. I own a 26.5 SOB movement and I am lucky it is 100% in working order. I recently thought it had a broken balance staff which do still come up for sale - finding a whole wheel for under $200 will be hard. Expect to pay $75 if you do find one. There are some videos for straightening hair springs. unless you can reshape it with some oilers and tweezers under a microscope I would give up. You may find another hairspring from a similar watch somewhere. If you get really stuck, I have a similar caliber omega pocket watch balance which you could have for the price of postage (Say $10USD to wherever you are) - but dont know if its drastically different. Alex
  11. I have had this happen to some watches. First try remove the stem. Then as you are reinserting it, rotate it a bit left to right to make sure it goes into the castle gear bit. Then if it goes in all the way, give the release lever a few presses whilst gently wiggling (very gently) the crown stem in and out (just a hair, less than 0.1mm). Then try and pull the stem out so as to set the time, then push it back in. It should be back to normal. If not you can either remove the dial and hands as mentioned, or alternatively remove the automatic winding assembly, then remove the mainspring barrel bridge and try and reseat the castle gear and other bits onto the setting lever. As I hate removing hands on expensive watches, I usually go this route. Good luck!
  12. Great work! There are a number of people in the industry/hobby who shout about Rolex's needing to go to a Authorized Rolex Service. From experience - most industry workshops be it in cars, computers or watches are staffed by 16 year old apprentices or elderly idiots who have lost their marbles. I don't trust workshops, I wouldn't even bring a $10 timex for a battery change to them. Good on you for bucking the trend and doing the work yourself! You've done better than most service places.
  13. Hiya Pip. I will keep an eye out. I'm looking for another one too as I have 1 more donor one to fix. Your LCD looks to have a small crack in it. I am afraid the parts will not come up easily as they are always the first part to crack. I think that people are a bit rough putting the battery in, or there is no shock protection on the case back when it is pressed in, resulting in a crack to the glass. They are great watches, I've seen a few changes hands recently for only $100.
  14. If you are willing to cover shipping, I could take a look at it down under (Australia). It is likely that the workshop is full of it. A mate had a Girard with a broken Balance staff which he was quoted $1000 to fix and 12 months wait. I fixed it for $20 for genuine balance. A lot of these top end places just dont want to deal with this due to risk of something breaking later so they give you crazy prices to keep you away. For what its worth, alot of parts in watches are brass/stainless/plated so they don't rust very much. There is usually a sacrificial part such as mainspring or movement ring which rusts and causes a lot of debris. I took a AS movement which was soaked in salt water and brought it back to life by soaking parts in WD40, then vinegar and coke. I fixed a Wyler which looked 10x worse than your watch, all it needed was cleaning and gentle care. Cheers.
  15. SO I have stripped it down, I will chrome the bezel. Get a new battery - refit all the seals and buy a strap. Updates will be in 2-3 weeks Oh yeah and will have to respray the case silver
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