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AlexeiJ1 last won the day on December 2 2017

AlexeiJ1 had the most liked content!

About AlexeiJ1

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  1. What would you pay? I just had replated a Gladiador brand Nickel plated case for a Landeron 48. The movement appears to be lost somewhere, it was at my parents house and then we moved. It is complete with pushers and crown/stem. It originally had wire lugs and I had them cut off and holes drilled by Replateit.com which they did a sensational job on. Comes with crystal and bezel and polished case back. It owes me $120 AUD at this stage so I can put some pictures up and you can have a think (AUD to USD makes it around 81USD). Alex
  2. I usually dig around in my parts bin to find a jewel that is correct pivot size and then press and fit that. I found a perfect jewel for an Omega 1040 pivot from a Soviet Slava movement (my point is you can use any movement as long as it same size and spec). It sounds like you should find someone to take on the casework (I use replateit.com to do mine - they did a fab job on a similar zinc or similar material case for me recently and they even cut the wire lugs off and drilled holes for a strap well). Realistically, you've probably picked a tricky watch to do as a junior watchmaker.
  3. Hey everyone, I recently watched Mark Lovick's video about making custom dials with that contact transfer paper and I had an interesting thought. How hard would it be to reproduce a aluminium diving bezel? We all have watches with rare bezels that are NLA. I had a Omega Seamaster Calypso which sadly ended up with a reproduction ebay bezel that is not quite right. I have restored 5 or so Seiko 8229 divers and they all have worn bezels that are obsolete. What if I cut an aluminium ring to size, transfered the decal across and then coated the bezel with either clearcoat or a thin layer of 2 part epoxy??? Any thoughts? Getting them made in China is difficult and probably lengthy. I don't need it perfect but obviously so the watch is more wearable. I had about 4 pepsi dialed versions which fared better. But this one is quite worn.
  4. Great writeup. Is there a reason you had to turn that bit down in the lathe prior to punching the staff out? I have yet to replace a staff, although I have acquired a staking set. Cheers Alex
  5. I figured it out in the end. It required turning the runners until they fit in just right. Weirdly When testing the movement, the chronograph reset was very hard and positive. As soon as I re-cased it all - it is back to a flimsy reset. Anyone familiar with this movement??? I don't want to strip it down again - would have liked a solid reset, it just sort of plops in with a gentle touch.
  6. Hi all, I'm working on my quirky F300HZ Speedsonic with the 1255 tuning fork movement. It had a dicky reset (too soft) so I decided to service it. I have the chrono plate all together, it functions beautifully without the chronograph wheels. When I fit the chronograph wheels with the little hearts it won't go back together. I tried pushing the wheels with an oiler ( I have been able to align bridges with 7-10 wheels before no worries), no luck. I have the chronograph in "running" mode when I re-assemble it so the hearts of the wheels can line up with the reset levers. Anyone got any ideas?? The service manual is in German. Anyone who's serviced one of these will know the trick. Also I lost a foil washer that sits on top of both wheels - is this critical??????/ Cheers
  7. Great idea! I will give it a go. Luckily I have access to needles as I am a nurse.
  8. Wow that dial is pristine. Mine had a rust hole and I got it refinished (badly) still has a dent in the bottom near the sub dial. Any ideas where I could source a dial? I missed one in Belgium on ebay for $150 earlier because I thought mine was salvageable. Let me know if you find out where you sourced it. Great to finally have a photo though!!!!! Cheers
  9. Alternatively I'll stop being silly and buy a generic gold seconds hand with a 1.8mm height from cousins. But it won't be omega. sigh.....
  10. Hi everyone, I'm restoring an Omega Moonphase Cosmic with subseconds hand (Cal 381). It was missing the seconds hand when I got it (Pic of example watch) I've put a pic of the 4th wheel. My seconds hand that I sourced from Blake at Scotchwatch is too short in the shaft (hahaha!). It fits the wheel perfect, but unfortunately due to thickness of dial, etc. It doesn't reach the pivot. Can I easily extend this? Replacement parts are unavailable. I was thinking of buying 0.2mm inner diameter brass pipe (if something as thin as a gnats $#%) exists! and soldering it on/epoxying to the shaft. The hole in dial is large so I basically want the seconds hand to fit well and function - I don't care about the appearance underneath. How do I go about this? Anyone able to turn a brass sleeve/collar to fit. I could post the hand to the right hobbyist and see if you can fix it? Cheers Alex
  11. Details about NOS Vintage Seiko6119-6023 Inner Rotating Bezel P/N 86029861 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOS-Vintage-Seiko6119-6023-Inner-Rotating-Bezel-P-N-86029861/183452051154?hash=item2ab69826d2:g:LiYAAOSwPQ9bqQ21
  12. Hi Guys, I've been rebuilding a 1611 Omega Chrono Quartz watch, I've finally gotten it working. Now there is a curious flaw, and it persists even after two total strip down inspections and ultrasonic/one dip/oiling. At 8pm every night, just after 8:45pm, hour hand stops moving at the halfway point, the minute hand keeps going, and then the watch loses an hour the next morning. This is an omega which has the jump hours setting (you pull crown and the hours jump when you turn the crown). There is a thread on another forum where the hour wheel has failed on a GMT model. My 3 possible differential diagnoses are: - Magnetized parts somewhere upsetting the gear train -Weak magnets on the minute wheel needing replacement (most likely because if you look at the design, there must be some resistance in the geartrain that occurs at 8:45pm). -Wear or cracks somewhere that I cannot identify, or potential freeplay on the hour wheel Any thoughts? The craziness is that I just sold a NOS 1320 movement on ebay because I thought I had sorted this bugger!!!!!!!!!!!!
  13. I don't have a lathe sadly. The barrel cover appears flat as I ordered a replacement which was either NOS or very good condition. The original was flimsy and buggered. It had been worked on by Indonesian watchmakers who are not to a very high standard. The watchmaker who sold the watch is based next to a rice filled. He did bizarelly have a Jean Claude Dato Compax rolex in pieces on his bench!!!!!!!!! Is a broken barrel tooth something that can be repaired? should I write off the barrel. Will it just slip past that tooth if I file it down?
  14. Hi All Recently acquired a Rolex 6303 with a Cal 645. The barrel cover was loose from poor workmanship. I bought a similar Cal 600 cover which looks correct but still doesnt hold. Is there a way to stake a barrel closed? I tried tapping the rim in a little but may have damaged a tooth. Please help!!!!!!! If anyone has a source on Cal 645 parts I would be indebted. Willing to pay good money for a part to get this flipping watch back together (3 months on my bench so far). Alex
  15. Hi everyone, I have recently worked on 4 different Seiko 8229-602a watches and they all had buggered movements. I found a few donor movements and serviced them. Now some of them fit perfectly whilst 2 of them have had the problem of a misaligned date disc. It seems that due to the offset crown the date wheel only lines up at midnight correctly (see pic attached). One of them was fine but not running, I cleaned and serviced and re-assembled and the wheel is suddenly misaligned. The donors that came from offset crown cases seem to have more success than others. Am I tripping out? Does Seiko use different date wheels for offset crown watches? Or geometrically they are the same and I have done something wrong? All the action is smooth, I am just wondering whats going on. I don't really want to open my diver back up as last time I scratched the dial, but want it so it looks perfect. I love the 8229 as It is robust and easier to work on than the 7546/8. Often you can make a great profit buying a rusty 8229 and flipping it on ebay after a quick service (netting me a good $30-40 per hr for labour). Alex
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