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AlexeiJ1 last won the day on December 2 2017

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  1. AlexeiJ1

    Change battery cheap quartz

    Can you try and remove that rear hatch? I'd try some double sided tape and then suddenly pull on the crystal to remove it. I'd hold off pulling the stem unless you know how it works. Also try remove the strap, maybe something hiding behind there!
  2. AlexeiJ1

    Help identifying movements

    No idea regarding movements. A watch is a watch. You can strip them down to parts, photograph the order. Clean in hot water and ammonia, then dip in shellite. Black Moebius grease for barrel and mainspring. Moebius 8000 for slow moving parts and 9010 for fast moving parts like escape wheel. Pallet lever doesnt require oil usually. 9010 on both ends of balance staff. I usually put a bit of oil on tip of screwholes to prevent seizing. There is nothing else to it for older watches, you won't find obscure service guides unless they are ETA, Omega, Rolex, or similar movements. The main thing is strict cleanliness and robust cleaning technique, Newer more high performance watches require adherence to service charts for optimum performance between service. An ETA 2836 for example will benefit from correct grease to pallet jewels, high speed oil for high speed parts. Correct grease/oils in keyless and date mechanism. Mainspring either gets grease or no grease depending on the watchmaker (I use grease). Chronographs again require more thought for moving parts. A good start is to google "Moebius Oil chart for watch movements" - it goes through different size movements and oil recommendations. When I started with cheap watches such as the ones you posted, I only used Moebius 8000 as it was cheap and fits all purpose. Service interval atleast 2 years (many watches still running to spec with 8000). I'd soak the cases in ammonia and water to remove sediment, then polish gently by hand with Autosol or a buffing compound. The crystals will need soak in above to remove crud, then sand with 400/800/1200/1500/2000 (wet sand) and then polish with PolyWatch (found on eBay). The best way to glue them back in is with GS Crystal glue (ebay as well). Straps are either ebay or Cousins (the open ended ones for the 2nd watch can be hard to find, ebay is okay - look for "open ended leather strap"). Feel free to ask more questions.
  3. AlexeiJ1

    Seiko 7548. . rescue

    Brilliant. I found a similar Seiko, it was 50 cents at a market. 7546 movement, nearly identical. It had a stuffed crystal. absolutely filthy case/movement back, corroded battery, etc, etc. Missing end link from strap. However after cleaning it gently and using rodico on the dial, I was able to create a wonderful watch worth wearing. The patina on the dial is just amazing. The green oxidation from the plated crystal ring and the brown rust from the crown wheel/keyless make it look like a oyster shell. Really nice look. The only problem is the movement number got worn off the dial, but you can still see JAPAN MADE. I havent stripped the movement yet but I blew it out and oiled it with 9010 and has been running +1 sec/day for nearly a year now. The crystal cost a whopping $3 from Cousins. End link was 25 cents.
  4. AlexeiJ1

    Omega 26.5 T3

    To be honest you won't find a balance wheel easily. It is not a watch to learn maintenance on unfortunately. I own a 26.5 SOB movement and I am lucky it is 100% in working order. I recently thought it had a broken balance staff which do still come up for sale - finding a whole wheel for under $200 will be hard. Expect to pay $75 if you do find one. There are some videos for straightening hair springs. unless you can reshape it with some oilers and tweezers under a microscope I would give up. You may find another hairspring from a similar watch somewhere. If you get really stuck, I have a similar caliber omega pocket watch balance which you could have for the price of postage (Say $10USD to wherever you are) - but dont know if its drastically different. Alex
  5. I have had this happen to some watches. First try remove the stem. Then as you are reinserting it, rotate it a bit left to right to make sure it goes into the castle gear bit. Then if it goes in all the way, give the release lever a few presses whilst gently wiggling (very gently) the crown stem in and out (just a hair, less than 0.1mm). Then try and pull the stem out so as to set the time, then push it back in. It should be back to normal. If not you can either remove the dial and hands as mentioned, or alternatively remove the automatic winding assembly, then remove the mainspring barrel bridge and try and reseat the castle gear and other bits onto the setting lever. As I hate removing hands on expensive watches, I usually go this route. Good luck!
  6. Great work! There are a number of people in the industry/hobby who shout about Rolex's needing to go to a Authorized Rolex Service. From experience - most industry workshops be it in cars, computers or watches are staffed by 16 year old apprentices or elderly idiots who have lost their marbles. I don't trust workshops, I wouldn't even bring a $10 timex for a battery change to them. Good on you for bucking the trend and doing the work yourself! You've done better than most service places.
  7. Hiya Pip. I will keep an eye out. I'm looking for another one too as I have 1 more donor one to fix. Your LCD looks to have a small crack in it. I am afraid the parts will not come up easily as they are always the first part to crack. I think that people are a bit rough putting the battery in, or there is no shock protection on the case back when it is pressed in, resulting in a crack to the glass. They are great watches, I've seen a few changes hands recently for only $100.
  8. If you are willing to cover shipping, I could take a look at it down under (Australia). It is likely that the workshop is full of it. A mate had a Girard with a broken Balance staff which he was quoted $1000 to fix and 12 months wait. I fixed it for $20 for genuine balance. A lot of these top end places just dont want to deal with this due to risk of something breaking later so they give you crazy prices to keep you away. For what its worth, alot of parts in watches are brass/stainless/plated so they don't rust very much. There is usually a sacrificial part such as mainspring or movement ring which rusts and causes a lot of debris. I took a AS movement which was soaked in salt water and brought it back to life by soaking parts in WD40, then vinegar and coke. I fixed a Wyler which looked 10x worse than your watch, all it needed was cleaning and gentle care. Cheers.
  9. SO I have stripped it down, I will chrome the bezel. Get a new battery - refit all the seals and buy a strap. Updates will be in 2-3 weeks Oh yeah and will have to respray the case silver
  10. So I was at the local sunday market today, and happened upon a weird little digital watch. I normally avoid them, but this one was a pulsar and it caught my eye. It was missing the strap - the seller was a big old man in his 60's selling knick knacks like beer glasses. He was asking $5 - I tried bargaining down to $4 but no cigar. I scored the digital watch and a Russian 9micron Gold plated Zarya with 16 jewels in running order (ladies watch). In Australia it is quite hard to find anything other than ladies watches because there are hundreds of blokes going around to all the thrift shops and buying up the gents watches. As most men over 40 here are divorced - they have nobody to buy ladies watches for and hence normally I have my pick. This was a lucky score to find a unisex/mens watch - I knew from straight away that it was something interesting - It had a large screen with many buttons, I initially thought it had a HR monitor or excercise function. From research it cost around $200 US in 1999 and was quite a trendy watch at the time. It is powered by a Seiko module with a pulsar assembly in "China". I got it home and started having a good look: According to another watch blog, it has the following features: Other modes are: - address book - memo/messages - chronograph - timer - alarm The full model number is: W440-4000 Beautiful working module Very grubby - but it is 100% complete minus the strap. It is a plastic/resin body with a base metal brass bezel that is chrome plated. It has resin/abs pushbuttons that are fully spring and water sealed. It has a stainless steel case back with a waterproof seal. I plan to replate the chrome. Spotless back - apart from minor marks. These watches were designed to be serviceable. Not like modern rubbish which is sealed for life. This beauty was able to be stripped down to the bare nuts and circlips. Starting to ease the buttons out. Mint original glass- will gently polish it thats it. (Mineral glass) Spring bars for the assembly. A little trick I use to remove circlips. A photo of the module Nice and clean AN old article about the watch from Popular Mechanics;
  11. All up it owes me around $110 + $50 for the crystal. Not bad considering I know its an honest watch with several parts replaced (LCD + Crystal + case back gasket) - rather than buying an unknown watch on ebay for $800 which could have a cracked dial.
  12. What's up WRT peeps! I finally have some updaaaaaaaaaaatees The story with the watch above was that it needed a case back and a replacement LCD panel. I have been watching eBay for a while, there have been 3 watches sold since: $850, $450, $280 for working examples. The former of which was a mint example. The prices have doubled from 3 years ago, where a mint NOS example cost $300-400. Anyway - I bought a nice B grade donor watch which was 100% complete, however it had a cracked/bleeding LCD panel. It only cost me $25 from germany (eBay) which is surprising because nobody else bid on it. Luckily I knew that Northern Watch Clock Co had a 4510-841 replacement LCD panel for sale for 15 gbp. It was the correct panel for the donor watch as the original had the dark dial which was possible rarer? I ordered the part, after paying an absolutely eye watering 25GBP for postage, (it arrived with an 8gbp postage stamp - 14 days after ordering.waaat...). It wasn't packed that well considering how incredibly rare this part is. Cousins as an example posted me a 30x30x30cm carboard box just for a mainspring - atleast it was protected haha!!! https://imgur.com/uOMXVxu.jpg[/img]
  13. AlexeiJ1

    Bone pile 1968 Timex Marlin Restore

    Great work! I have a Timex Cal 100 (M100) ladies watch that had a worn winding ratchet pawl which flung off. Any chance you have a spare m100 with the little spring that sits near the barrel? Tried epoxying a shepard hook onto the mainplate but it slips sometimes. (Ha!)
  14. AlexeiJ1

    Wyler Vetta High dome crystal

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GS-PA-Round-Replacement-Crystals-for-Wyler-Gruen-Helbros/161242066021?hash=item258ac6ac65:m:muA2omvlSGV5TgsfiCzYr0A Would this Wyler 31.85mmm crystal fit?
  15. Hi Everyone, I was recently given a Wyler Vetta (ETA 32) watch with a stuffed movement and ratty case + crystal. I've since serviced it and de-rusted it, waiting on some lume for the hands, cleaned up the case. The man who gave it to me is dying from cancer, and it means a lot to me to fix it as he is like a grandfather to me (I'm only 25 in this hobby). My dillemma is the crystal! I've ordered a 32mm GHD crystal for $30 with postage and it turned out to be to small on the inner edge but too large on the outer. Can anyone advise based off the measurements? The inner diameter of the crystal was 30.6mm Outer diameter is 31.85mm or so. The inner bezel ring sits just on the dial, so that makes no difference. The tension ring inner diameter is approximately 31.9 The crystal I got was from tiptopcrystals: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/G-S-XHD-EXTRA-HI-DOME-18-35-24-1mm-35-2mm-Round-Extra-High-Dome-Watch-Crystal/191801252753?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=490828457029&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 It was the 32mm GS XHD 30.1/2 Should I go for a slighly larger from same seller or ATG Sternkreuz from cousins? Can anyone suggest sizes. I tried milling down the tip top crystal with a scalpel however ended up wrecking both he sent me.