wls1971

Its a early Landeron possibly a Calibre 13, only way to identify for sure would be a pic of the keyless works, Eberhard in my experience from a number of years ago are a very good company to deal with if you require parts they will supply if they have them in stock, they also seem to have good factory records so if you contact them with the serial number they may be able to help.

This is a very well written PDF on the subject well worth a read: http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/LaBounty-Burnishing.pdf

Turn it over and unscrew the two screws from below this will release the cap jewel and allow the regulator to be removed, why does it need replacing ?

I would think that you need to remove the watch bezel and drop the movement out through the front of the watch.

Looks like it's a Derby calibre 33

You means the SC ? that's the code for center seconds a abbreviation of french seconde centrale

It should be a early Seamaster with center seconds

The red pointer should reset when the chronograph is reset, is the large white hand moving ? if so the chronograph is running, press the top button followed by the bottom button and all the hands should reset to zero, if not the hands have gone out of sync, these can be reset, unscrew the watch crown pull it all the way out, then press both the top and bottom chronograph buttons at the same time the chronograph seconds hand will do a complete revolution that indicates the watch is in hand reset mode pressing the top button will advance the large seconds hand one second at a time, pressing the bottom button will move the reset to the next sub dial hand, pressing the top button will then advance that hand one index at a time repeat till all hands are in their relative zero positions. If you get stuck their are plenty of youtube videos on the subject of resetting quartz chronographs.

The red hand is the chronograph minute counter, there is no minute sub dial on these watches, top right sub dial 1/10th of a second bottom middle sub dial constant seconds, top left sub dial hour counter.

Some spares for smiths are available you need to identify the platform fitted I think it will be a Smiths EA31 which was widely used by Smiths/Jaeger for car clocks there are some complete platforms available on Ebay and balance staff are available for them remove the platform and post some pics of the platform topside underside and side view.

The rim wind Jaegers/Smiths are fitted with a calibre 201 7 jewel used both in aircraft and car clocks I dont know if the U.S would be the same. The only rim set car clock I have had was a Benrus Chrysler clock that fitted in the centre of the steering wheel and was automatic winding as you steered the car the clock wound , a very expensive option in the 1950's so very few where sold in the day, I sold it to a classic car restorer in America,

If it is a FAZ the movement will be the same as this one: https://onatelier.co.uk/jaeger-classic-car-cockpit-clock

This catalogue may help to I.D the clock: http://www.hells-confetti.com/Technical data/Jaeger Instruments/British Jaeger Dashboard Instruments.pdf

French chalk: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/french-chalk Use a very soft brush such as the very soft Glasgow brush : https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/natural-bristle-brushes-handheld The brush is passed over the chalk to coat it , you then brush the plates using the brush in a very fast motion applying no pressure just skim the surface very fast any excess chalk must be blown from the pivot holes and surface when finished, the plates must be absolutely bone dry before chalking other wise the chalk may sit in the pivot holes and not be removed when blowing clear. Lacquering is a skill in it's self applying the lacquer with a very fine natural bristle brush such as a Camel brush natural bristles let the lacquer flow better from the brush than nylon or synthetic bristle brushes, traditional lacquers are shellac based and dry very quickly almost on contact applying to parts that have been slightly warmed before hand gives a more even result, I have Lacquered by hand and have had some good results, but it is a frustrating process at times you have to work quickly and methodically, clear lacquers are easier to get good result with, warm tone Lacquers can be very unforgiving so in the end I gave up and now use a compressor and airbrush to apply. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/lacquers-rapid-drying

I assume by this you mean orientation of the flat side and the domed side of the jewel ? but are you sure you put the cap jewels in the right place ? they are quite often not the same, the cap jewel that goes in the main plate is often thinner than the jewel that fits on the balance cock which is often thicker.