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wls1971 last won the day on April 8
wls1971 had the most liked content!
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539 ExcellentAbout wls1971
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Distinguished Member
- Birthday 08/17/1971
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Leeds, West Yorkshire, England
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wls1971 started following Junghans? and Over The Top Victorian Excellence
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This clock is up for sale soon, its a bonkers piece of Victorian OTT work, if only I could win the lottery https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/burstow-and-hewett/catalogue-id-srburs10272/lot-bce9139c-7454-4c19-92f6-ad0b00f73577
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I would leave it as is unless you feel confident repainting, it would not be worth the cost of refinishing.
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The dials are printed on these not engraved this was to keep costs down in production, if you try to resilver you will lose the numerals and have to paint them back on or have the dial refinished, probably better leaving as is.
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I bought one because there where only two, I will scan it when I receive it and make a pdf available to anyone who wants one, resized and printed on glossy paper they should make a good substitute.
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You need one of these if its not the right size you can always scan, adjust and reprint: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Round-PAPER-CARD-R-A-Clock-Pendulum-Insert-2-GLOSS-WHITE-Spares-Parts/265121951048?hash=item3dba7fed48:g:a9IAAOSwkfFbps0~
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No they wont be a problem there is nothing to prevent the gut line from following the grove in the fusee.
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Yes a small amount of grease on a couple of teeth of the ratchet it will spread as you wind and a smear of grease where the ratchet spring touches the click and a tiny dab on the post the click goes onto.
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I'd still use Windles at tuppance a tonne compared to £17.90 for 30ml of Novastar
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Stay away from grease for the mainspring use Windles clock oil I've had Fusee's that have been absolutely packed with grease it usually ends up sticking the coils of the spring together, which results in uneven power delivery, clean it with a cloth soaked in lighter fluid or solvent I then put it back in the barrel and put some drops of Windles around the coils it is enough to migrate across the spring never had a sticking spring using this.
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These Tameside Fusee clocks where designed so that the fusee wire could be changed without fully dismantling the clock, the original wires supplied where copper coated steel and had a steel terminal at the end so fitting from the side of the barrel could be achieved.
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Remove the screw and push the brass disk across this will seperate the fusee cone from the wheel and give you access to the ratchet wheel click spring and click all these parts need cleaning and inspecting.
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Yes once the screw is out it is free to move, its not the best set up but these clock where not about finesse just cheapness of manufacture, care must be taken when removing the screw and the arbor held firm otherwise the plates can be easily marked by the screw or bar. I usually do these type of clock by releasing the screw a little and prising the brass bar up a little from the plate surface before total removal of the screw, its also preferable to use a let down tool on the arbor but the Williamson clocks have a very large arbor end so I use a small spanner again care has to taken that you
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It doesn't have a click because the barrel arbor is held captive by a brass bar held with a screw, there will be pre tension on the spring to release it the screw is removed to free the bar whilst holding the arbour end with a let down tool or small spanner. The same arrangement was used on later Williamson fusee clocks.
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I didn't bid I put it in my watch list and totally forgot to bid £50 is a good price it should be a good performer when serviced.
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I was going to bid on one of these on Ebay the other week but as usual I forgot and it sold for £50.00 a good price they are interesting clocks built with economy of manufacture being the main criteria of design, all the pressed out brass holes on the plates are what goes to make up the other parts of the movement, so the backcock is made from the piece stamped out of the front plate, etc even with all the economy of manufacture the company still went bust.