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I thought you might like to look at this video by Steffen. If you don't know of him look him up on YouTube, he is a master at watchmaking. Steffen Pahlow Lorch Rounding Up Tool (English Version) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMmXU6XiycY

Getting back to the origins of this post ie was the spring OK to re-fit the answer should be no. Most pro's always replace with a new spring as part of the service charge. Breaking grease on the barrel rim is a must and the new springs are already lubricated.

Those diagrams are of non-capped jewels, which are not to be used for balance wheel pivots. Here is a diagram of what we are talking about: The dome is there to keep the oil in the center with capillary action when brought to contact with end stone. There should not be any shoulders on balance pivots, but a gradual slope. Only surfaces acting as bearing surfaces are around the tip of the pivots. Otherwise there would be too much friction.

It's an earley Seiko movement. Hence the seiko shoksprings . Not supercommon. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&UTC_233

Push in the crown to change the date pointer.

I think that's the right term.long nut threaded through used for coupling one threaded rod to another. Why do I ask? I have a few vostok amphibia cases I want to experiment with. My idea is to transplant another as of yet to be determined caliber into a vostok case. In order to keep the vostok crown I wish to cut the stem and connect it to another with a coupling nut...does such a thing exist in the world of horology?why do I want to do this? Simple..because I can.

A couple of Swatch Irony basket cases, now ticking away nicely. Both needed batteries (obviously) and both were reluctant to start, but spinning them like a top, (crystal down on a glass table top), then grabbing them while still spinning seems to have done the trick. This appears to be enough to kick their rotors in to action if they are slightly hesitant to get moving. Both were well within the 404 club membership rate, but both need straps, and genuine leather ones will cost more three times what each of the watches did. Time for me to improve my leather craft skills perhaps. I also need to do a bit of polishing, probably with the Dremel and some elbow grease, to bring them back to a nice factory shine. "Spares or repair" Swatch watches are a bit of a lottery, since they are not designed to be opened. You can generally get in to the Irony models by carefully prising off the bezel holding in the crystal, but even then, access is limited, and most things are held together with plastic rivets, so a spray with contact cleaner and perhaps a little gentle tickling of the gears with a pin is about as far as you can go without indulging in major, potentially fatal surgery. These didn't require me to access the works, so they are still factory fresh inside. The plastic cased Swatch models are much more hit or miss. You can get in by destroying the crystal, but even then, plastic rivets and cheap build quality will probably stymie and attempts to fix them. Even the contact cleaner trick is risky. On one I tried this with, all of the dial indices fell off, pretty much the instant the contact cleaner vapour got to the dial.

a good watch machinest could do this. a watchmaker probably not want to. i sugesst; look up quartz mvmt's, they may have some parts for " a conversion ". vin

"stem extender" is a good name for it, thou i've never seen one if you use that, be sure to use "lock tight" in the joint. i have several accutron watch cases i would like to modify in that manor. be sure the "old dudes" won't aprove. cheers, vin

I am not clear if you are talking stems of same or different OD.

Hi They certainly do exist but wether you can get them in such small sizes id debateable As Anilv the best way is the stem extender.

Your best bet is buying 6360 complete balance. Both screw type or anulare would work.

Remove the little cover plate, slot the coverplate into the groove in the wheel, install as one unit. Anilv

You need a stem extender. Pretty common in watch-repair. Most mechanical watches have a 0.9mm thread, dont know about your Russian ones but I suspect they're the same. Quartz watch stems are slightly smaller at 0.7mm. Anilv

The domed side of the hole jewel faces the cap jewel, the oil sink faces away.

I'm looking to aquire an original IWC case to match with this fantastic watch I have in my collection. Can anyone lend some advice other thatn search EBay? Or should I just leave this one as is? BTW, I bought this watch for $10.00 Well it was missing the case, the stem was broken and rusted in the movement, the staff was broken. So I think it was a great deal in the end...

These are considered a good staking set because you can get a jewelling lever attachment making them a jewelling tool as well, I assume that the bent screw is for part of the lever assembly for the jewelling tool but stand to be corrected as my own staking tool is a simpler item. For staking, as long as the plate is flat and can be centred and locked and the stake can be inserted and drop straight it should be good. If someone with a k&d can advise on the threaded bar you might be OK and then keep an eye out for a jewelling set.

JB Weld. I do find this a lot better than the old and still available two tube epoxy Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

It doesn't put any tilting side stress on the center wheel shaft, which is a big risk with a pinvice (potential broken center wheel shaft), it pulls straight up. It grabs "just enough". It takes literally 6 seconds to use including taking out and putting back into the drawer. It doesn't leave marks on the canon pinion, which some pinvices may do. There are cases where it won't work like a split chronograph or minute repeater. There I do use a pinvice, I have one that can't mark the canon pinion. Nothing wrong with a pinvice, except it is definitely riskier and is slower. I've repivoted a number of center wheels for other watchmakers...

Yes, I have made the measurements and gotten additional details from the seller. I also took the watch over to my watchmaker friend and he thinks the fit will be fine. Will review all latter this evening and go from there. Of course while at his shop he mentions that this gem of a watch just came in and if I would be interested. Damn thing fit my wrist perfectly! and so the phase "when it rains it pours".

The construction looks like a Seiko 7625 e.g. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?11&zenoshop&0&2uswk&Seiko_7625D

hammers and fakes work well together.... sorry but I've seen too many coworkers loose thier jobs becuase of copyright infringment.

I agree the wording on the gauge can be a bit confusing. So the 50 /100 of a millimeter which is really 0.50 mm then the 11 would be 0.11 mm. So two of the images come from Bulova training manual. One of the images I have no idea where it came from as it was a very long time ago I got the image. The photographs are mine. Then for the Bulova training book which is really nice to have physical copy seems a bit expensive but it's at the link below and the second link older edition is a PDF in sections. .https://www.amazon.com/Joseph-Bulova-School-Watchmaking-Training/dp/0918845211 http://www.mybulova.com/vintage-bulova-catalogs