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In the 1st picture it looks like the lower part of the pallet fork (between banking pins and balance) is bent. This makes your problem. Frank

Changing the hand on a chrono is not the same as changing the hands on a normal watch. They are really tight on the post, this is to prevent them flying off when the hands are reset. You also need to have support the end of the seconds clutch when installing the seconds hand to prevent damage to the clutch wheel. Seiko also has a 'flat' on the center seconds hand so the hand will deform a bit to fit the post, lessening the chance of it moving. The 'flat' can be in any position relative to 12 oçlock so a second-hand one will not work well as it has already deformed to its original post. My advice is that for a watch with such sentimental value I would get it professionally serviced together with a crystal and gasket change. Anilv

The preferred starting watch for somebody new to watch repair is a Chinese pocket watch movement. You can purchase these on eBay. Your starting off with a pocket watch because it's big easier to work on. Your starting off with a new working watch that was cheap to purchase so if you destroy it nobody cares. The advantage of a new working watch is each time you take it apart and put it back together it should still work. Often times the newbie unsuccessful with fixing their first broken watch will blame the broken watch where is the reality it takes a little bit time to pick up the skill to successfully disassemble and reassemble a watch without having something happen bad. It works much better to practice on a new cheap watch until your successful at not destroying that..

May be of help a little. I find that carefully using the blade of a Swann Morton scalpel helps to separate and start lifting the lid of Seiko mainspring barrels, they can be more easily damaged with a screwdriver tip for example.

even the round Timex crystals can be tricky as Andy points out due to the interior gap between the hands and the under side of the crystal. And before you ask, no I don't have any in stock. That case style was used for many models ( 105, 106, 107, 108 and 109) so I ran out long ago. I think but not sure they measure at 30.7 or 30.8 MM. Don't forget to drop the dial ring back into place. "May the Timex gods shine their wisdom brightly on your quest" guru talk

Here’s the Instagram of the Italy based watch restorer. Both coatings are used in the process of refurbishing watches and I’m curious what brand they are and if they could improve my work :-) https://instagram.com/il_menzerna?igshid=mw64kib64yb7 I think the pink one is used to see if there are any uneven areas when working on the lapping machine and the blue one is a protective coating to help with brushed and polished areas and avoid swirlmarks during work etc. That’s my guess.

Take a look at this video, from 1:18:30, is this what you need? It's from last week stream by Kalle Slaap, a watchmaker from the Netherlands.

I too am in NW and a hobbyist of a few years. I second what Adam says and would also add that the mechanics are easy to understand but the touch and feel are very important. I cadged as many FOC non-runners as I could from local watchmakers, jewellers and charity shops, plus a few purchased NOS from the bay. I then just took them apart and rebuilt them a few times to get the feel of handling small parts with tweezers, working small screws, handling balances, mainsprings and oiling etc. Doesn't matter too much if you mess up and ping a few bits (you can then check out your eyesight etc !!!!). For the more valuable watches I always check spares availability before I even start, at least then I will know the cost of any mishaps (!!) and can be extra careful when handling hard to get parts, and maybe help me decide to leave it or not for another time when more experienced. Welcome to the friendliest and most helpful forum.

Of course these can be serviced, nobody said otherwise. In that sense above I linked a posting with the basic how-to, and a replacement mainspring reference. That being said Seiko did the right thing in making orderable the barrel complete only, here's why: They are actually built more tightly and less strong that a traditional one,s I know of at least of one beginner that posted having broke it while trying to open it. I've sent him a free replacement BTW. Being more tightly built, even if not technically sealed, makes so no external agent can enter. So the issue of meeting a "filthy dirty" mainspring is gone. Considering that the important point above is out of the equation what is exactly the remaining reasons left to service it? That the braking grease has lost effectiveness and the mainspring slips while winding. But in fact that is not only a function of the "semi-braking" agent, but mainly of the bridle design, materials used, and mainspring strength. I can tell you that Seiko did good in that area, as I've never seen faulty Seiko barrel. That the mainspring has lost it's elastic properties after much, much use. Again, I've never seen one so far. Personally I've replaced one on a 7S26 because I blamed insufficient amplitude to an old MS. Guess what, the new one didn't made any difference.

Yes. If not from it magnetizing the hairspring then probably from the numerous drops the watch will endure. Also I can imagine having your wrist constantly sticking to metal things will start to get old pretty fast like when typing on a laptop.

Here is my watch for the day, a Late 60s early 70s Vostok Amphibia on a shark mesh bracelet.

All these have virtually the same sealed barrel. Do not open unless there is a proven benefit. For older mov'ts consult the relevant service sheet. I don't think there is any silicon in this, and the description is wrong. Personally I would not spend £18.95 + VAT for something that is never going to go in a watch. And I would use proven Moebious products amentioned above for Swiss watches with a mainspring meant to be serviced.

Best chance to work on the collet was when you had removed the hairspring. Perhaps Wrong roller or staff? I glue the roller on staff ,use apoxy, just for a test run. To see if this parts makes a movement or someone just installed what they had, if it ran with promising performance, you can always pull the balance assembly out and build the balance as correct as we can. If we buy tools as soon as we feel we need one, wife kicks us out of the house.

You are asking for recommendations here is another discussion showing another recommendation for breaking grease and how it's applied. https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/9953-kluber-p-125-vs-homemade/

We must also give the complete, info so: That the barrel complete has to be replaced at each service isn't a fixed rule and certainly is not mentioned in the Seiko document. It should be replaced when the amplitude has dropped significantly and all the other factors influencing it have been excluded. In practice that can be decades of continued use. And the watch is left unwound the mainspring will not deteriorate at all. The NH36 is an inexpensive mov.t but virtually all parts are made available. For example the above mentioned barrel complete cost £16.90 from Cousins UK. That is a significant portion of the complete mov't at just £30.95. About opening the barrel see below by our Host Mark Lovick When doing the above the replacement mainspring is GR2378X.

I notice that the platform is not fully jeweled. Check for wear on pivots and the holes. Are the pallet jewels correct, faces smooth, not loose in there fittings, if you remove the balance complete and move the pallets from side to side, do the teeth for the escape wheel escape, are they worn? Is the impulse pin smooth it should be and tight in its fitting, the right length. As the hairspring was put on like ass backwards, someone with little or no experience has been playing about with this clock movement.

Yes, that is what I am referring to. I see some refinishers use this stuff before they do brushing and polishing.

I'm attaching an image from the service bulletin for your watch. As the others have specified in the service bulletin it's a barrel complete. This is a relatively inexpensive watch I doubt that there's any parts available and trying to get a new mainspring for this would be hard if not impossible. So it really would be best just to leave it alone. Then no need to worry about cross-contamination with 8200 because if you were servicing the mainspring barrel you would be replacing the mainspring which would be the preferred method. Then new mainsprings are supposed to be prelubricated which is why even if you have a tech sheet that shows the breaking grease there is no lubrication applied to the mainspring itself only the outer barrel wall and the arbor.

Yes and yes. It is possible to make your own tool with pegwood, but fraught with frustration. Also, one can re-seat the Kiff spring in the setting using two sharp tweezers and a fair amount of profanity. The trick is to seat two lobes of the spring BARELY into the setting and then while holding the spring, gently and carefully work the third lobe into place. Hard to describe, but not too hard to actually do, but it can also be frustrating. Ask me how I know. RMD

Thanks very much. I know how to remove the hair spring and reposition it, but don't know how to reposition the roler. I beleive it is time to buy the right horotec tool to do it. Which procedure will be less risky to damage it? Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

good show !

Hello, I want ot show you my way to repair broken slipping end of the automatic mainspring. 1. Firstly I drilled mainspring and slipping end with 0,3mm driller. 2. I made the rivet 3. Mainspring and end riveted 4. Clinching the rivet with pliers 5. Rivet grinding with file and water paper 6. Mainspring installed in barrel 7. Completed. I have checked if it works well. I have 9 full turns of arbor before mainspring starts to slip at the barrel wall. I think it is quite good. Some service manual says that 8,5 turns is a good result. What do you think - is it good way to repair this malfunction?

First a nice Elgin driver, a "Parkton" I believe. Its been sitting finished so long I can't remember the movement details, but a 670 inside I "think". Next a 1928 Elgin in a "jobbers" case with a 6/0s, Grade 430, seven jewel movement. Finally, a lovely Elgin "Capricorn" with a 714 Shockmaster movement. Michael was a lucky kid in 1962. The movement dates to 1958. RMD

On my Weishi No 1000 timegrapher, the preamp uses a Ti 2272C, wich is powered by +8V. I bought a DIY adapter for Weishi microphone and PC, in order to have the benefits of Weishi microphone stand and graphic display of TG software. -With Weishi microphone stand, I like to test the watch or the movement in all positions, safely. -With TG software, I like the details provided by the PC screen, and to "see" the sound from tic toc The adapter has an USB powered 8v power supply, a TRRS microphone jack and an XLR connector for the microphone.

Hi, I designed this Bergeon style part dust tray for watchmakers or hobbyist to put tiny dust sensitive parts to prevent the dust landing on it, it usually comes with a clear glass bell cover, but I can't print glass, untransparent will do for me, enjoy. The bell cover needs support while printing, I printed in 0.15mm resolution, looks good and works well, if you have more watchmaker tools requirements can be printed in plastic, please let me know, I'll love to design them, thanks. Thingiverse: Watchmaker tools - Bergeon Style Prat Dust Tray https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3594536 Darak

Will a mesh/milanese bracelet with a small magnet effect a mechanical watch? For example, something like this: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/33027240361.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.33027240361&aff_trace_key=b89a3440ab3c411a9fa12873a71fb082-1569946906622-01221-VnYZvQVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=7208amp-io59oqMbEcd8iLt7LOBMaQ1570458464852 Regards. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Specifically Seiko, Miyota, ETA, Seagull type movement? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk