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That is counterfeit watch. From far you can see SEIKO on the dial is too small, date window too small, lettering at 6H too big and raised. On the back, the rotor is stamped so poorly, rotor hub has no ball bearing, and more, it doesn't even try to look like a Seiko mov.t What's interesting is that in this class of watches, fakes were virtually unknown. Even for the ultra-popular SKX007/9, I have seen only a single set of picture from Malasya, but never anything like this. I suggest that you post these picture in the Seiko section of watchuseek.com with an indication of where it was bought. Or, I'll be glad to do that using your pictures.

The other day I got "The feeling" when looking at some what Andy call 404 watches, there was on that just svreamed buy me so I did. I thought what can go wrong with a superiour watch called Top Clop De Luxe, must for sure be one of the kind and extremely rare. Said and done i through in a bid for a dollar and won it like a land slide victory.. after a couple of days it magicly appearde on my door step and I brought it in for a royal overhaul. My first thught was ..wounder what that 21 is? well atleast it got an famous Unbreakable Mainspring ! Well when I turned it around and removed the back it felt like something was missing. It didn't really look like the "High End" BF 866 I'm used too..

Easter Monday 08.30 and I feel shattered, up till 04.00 playing hunt the click ! Can't find it anywhere, I even borrowed Grumpy's hoover and still can't find it ! Anyway this is my watch of the day. I know it is a quartz but in its defence it is accurate and waterproof and cheap £53.00 delivered.

Hi Everyone, Just to say hello, have just joined the forum and enrolled on Mark's level one course Hope everyone is having a good Easter break! Mike

J borel and Esslinger have red gaskets, but not exact size...Both are 4.50 but you need an account for J Borel ordering.. Esslinger lets you order without account. You'll have to try them and see:

Hi All the information you have recieved is practical and good , If the O ring is damaged then replace it but remember to grease the new ring with silicone, Just warm the grease in the fingers and draw the ring through so a to leave a fine coating, re fit the ring and use a press as stated

Make sure the movement ring is seated correctly and the do the same with the red o ring. Ensure the back is sitting evenly and press down firmly you will hear a click when the back goes on correctly. Personally, I prefer the screw down type press as they give more control.

The name of the part and what it looks like are more important as those part numbers are only relevant for Swiss Ebauches movments. If you work on Seikos for example those numbers don't mean anything. Most modern watches you can download technical sheets on that will give you the part numbers.

they make a set (nest) of plastic rings of diferent diameters just for that perpose. to set the mvt. face down.

lol.. well they got one jewel and that is on the balance cock so one can do the math from that.. of course they are in the extreme cheap segment..

Cousins have them in a wide variety, both assortments and specific sizes, cheap and a bit more pricy. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi and welcome. This subejct has been covered, the search function helps. I started a thread titled, How are stainless steel cases polished, back in june 25, 2018, If memeory serves me right, @jguitron has shown samples of his work . Jolly good fellow Regards

Good morning/evening OBR and welcome your knowledge will hopefully be a boon to us new starters

Hi OBR, welcome to the happy factory

So you only changed the balance and hairspring? The graphs look very good! B

No no no! Hands are too much delicate to push on the cushion while working on the back, they can change inclination, bend, scratch dial. Use a universal movement holder big enough to embrace dial rim BUT take care to not strong or the dial could deform. Have a nice journey, I know it could be a little bit frustrating but perseverance is the only way to satisfaction! Inviato dal mio VOG-L29 utilizzando Tapatalk

One of the very first makes i overhauled. They have many interesting pieces representative of the 70's. I still have a automatic jump hour in my collection. Thanks for sharing! J

Sicura

Hi Shaz, there’s a lot to learn and there are plenty of top blokes on here who will help. You could also invest in the coarse, it’s very good.

Speaking of testing... This is today's "Watch of Today", a 1972 Timex sprite. I don't think I've actually worn a watch this size since I was in short trousers, although the watch in question probably looked a lot like this but without the date. It may in fact have been the same vintage, as this one started life in 1972, and as I recall my childhood watch had a dark blue or black dial and a dark green strap. This one seems to have survived the day keeping reasonable pace with the Swatch, so I think we will call that a success.

The distinction between capacitor and rechargeable battery technology seems to be becoming pretty grey. Strictly speaking a lot of the "capacitors" in watches are technically more akin to batteries. Supercapacitors and rechargeable cells technology is colliding. The Panasonic watch cells in particular are described by Panasonic as coin type rechargeable batteries, but Sieko describes them as energy storage devices. Other technologies exist or are being developed that produce "supercapacitors" which are more like a typical capacitor, all be it with a limited voltage range which is similar to the charged voltage of a lithium cell but with capacities in the farad or tens of farads range. Current supercapacitors are however typically of the order of a tenth of the energy density of a similar sized rechargeable lithium cell. The technology is developing apace, and I suspect in 5 to 10 years, watches may have their "energy storage device" integrated on to the same die as the rest of the electronics.

Horological lubrication is quite a fascinating subject. Unlike some things in watch repair that haven’t really changed in the last hundred years horological lubrication seems to always be changing. As this particular discussion demonstrates lubrication of the pallet fork pivots sometimes they do sometimes they don’t. Then the choice of lubrication’s typical responses look at the tech sheet. But the various watch companies typically all have differing recommendations and those recommendations almost always have changed with time. Then there is the missing information such as surface treatment and other stuff. Or the assumption whoever’s reading a technical guide is a professional watchmaker that knows what they’re doing. Of course we all have our personal choices and thoughts on the subject which very likely could all be different. The original title of this discussion was lubrication of the pivots the pallet fork that generally is an easy subject in that it’s usually frowned upon at least by the Swiss. Oiling of the rest of the escapement can get quite interesting. This is where time is an interesting thing or when the technical sheets came into existence. For an example of this I pulled out a couple of older Swiss technical guides and the earlier one is recommending 9020 for the pallet stones. A couple years later they switch to 941. Then I don’t remember how many years before 9415 comes into existence but it will show up eventually. Then when it does its typically for the higher frequency watches as it stays in place better. But with time even on lower frequency of 18,000 BPH watches you’ll see either or recommendation. Currently everyone seems to going just to 9415. So did you think this was confusing at all? Did you wonder what I meant by missing information other than surface treatment? Omega’s an interesting company over the years they’ve had technical information separate from their normal technical guides. Working instruction number 40 is quite interesting for instance it’s on lubrication and I’ve attached the PDF to this message. I think you'll find starting on page 13 quite interesting.. CousinsUK.com Omega 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication.pdf

For Easter Sunday - 1961 \ 1962 "21 Jewels" - The 21 series was the follow up to the 400 series that had either a Hatori or Laco movement inside. You will find many transition piece such as this one that have 400 as the case back. There are even 400 series with 21 jewel movements.

After 2 weeks of Vostok Komandirskie testing on the wrist back to a vintage watch. (Very consistent and gaining pretty much in line with timegrapher so I'll regulate it a smidge). Omax automatic winding with AS2066 movement. This one has been fun, received and tested and it seemed to be running erratically. Checked on timegrapher and the beat error was all over the place. On opening I discovered the stud lever was not correctly attached to the balance cock, so auto work off. Balance off, wheel and hairspring removed and quite a bit of fiddling with a couple of pairs of tweezers ensued to get stud lever, regulating lever and cock to fit together. Then reassemble. Set beat. Regulate, reassemble automatic work. Re case, test, timegrapher was picking up the correct rate but seemed to be only picking up alternate ticks, removed, removed automatic works, re tested, same, removed checked and reinstalled balance cock, same. Set and left it for the night and this morning checked and it's keeping decent time, then I thought, I'll just try adjusting the stud lever again because it was niggling me that it was almost at the furthest point of travel to the cock. Suddenly I've got a tick and a tock again and unlike before no movement necessary to get the balance to spin, in fact it's nigh on impossible to get it to stop now that it's correctly in beat. The moral of this? Technology is great but it isn't infallible and won't help you being a dumbass and not physically checking the impulse pin alignment! After that, I have to say I really like this watch. It's in the 'to clean and lubricate' pile.

First, you're posting the wrong section, if it's about watches there is a section for that. Sorry about you bad experience, but if you read here on in other venues (e.g. Seiko section on WUS) you will find a general appreciation for Seiko mechanical watches, and testimonials numbering in the hundred as opposed to a single piece. Also I'm not aware of a Seiko 809 mov.t, perhaps you're referring to SKX809, an economical watch using the 7S26 mov.t. Could you tell which watch model you've supposedly bought? Because really none of 6R15 look like "light and cheap". Certainly a big difference between dial up and down indicates a problem. BTW, what you call "the error" is actually "beat error", something that doesn't such a big influence on accuracy as you may think. 0.8ms isn't even that much, and is something very easy to regulate. Again, that doesn't describe a Seiko automatic. In fact, thanks to the magic lever mechanism invented more han 50 years, Seiko achieves a very efficient bi-directional winding using a fraction of the parts used by others. Of course the weight spins down effortlessly. Maybe you could post detailed picture of this object to help others recognize what actually is, and avoid falling to fraud. I don't know if you bought it for cash in person but if it was online you should return and if any objection is raised dispute the payment with the card issuer.

But instead of soldering the dial legs into place I decided the Top Clop needed the state of the art solution and the dial legs got glued into place.

In this video I am stripping down and servicing a Seiko 7S26 watch movement which has not been serviced for a very long time. View full YouTube video

9415 is an interesting lubrication? It's grease like so it stays in place except on impact where it becomes a very fluid extremely slippery. But if you're trying to get maximum amplitude you have to be careful not to apply too much or you will lose amplitude.

My latest addition, orange monster. you definitely know it's on your arm.