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bsoderling last won the day on March 24

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About bsoderling

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  1. bsoderling

    P.W.C. Movement id

    Aahh... definitely in that neighborhood! Thanks a lot! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. bsoderling

    P.W.C. Movement id

    Hi, Setting out to service a P.W.C watch. I ”think” P.W.C is short for Perfecta Watch Company but can’t seem to id the movement and curious if this is an in-house or from the usual suspects and brand named for this company. I can’t find anything to id the movement by and appreciate any assistance. Photos are attached. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. bsoderling

    Replace base plate balance jewel (or not?)

    An update... Decided to follow advice and swap out the bad jewel. The replacement jewel fitted nicely and for the 2nd time I made use of the old Seitz set I bought a while ago. After a clean and lubrication the movement started up nicely with an amplitude at 270 with the old main spring, which must be a good thing on an oldie like this. Re-lumed the hands and may try to color the lume a bit as the new stuff stands out a bit too much. Dial and casing is not on the fancy side but I like the art-deco number style. Photos attached. Thanks for good advice and support! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. bsoderling

    Replace base plate balance jewel (or not?)

    I’m beginning to see where this is leaning... :-) The jewel I have is indeed of the convex type and hole diameter just 9/100 mm so I think the pivot diameter has gone down quite a bit due to wear. You mention refinishing of the pivot. Is work on the existing staff/pivot really possible or did you mean swapping out the staff? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. Hello friends, I’m (again) working on an old no-name movement, probably from the 30’s as it’s got a tank case with an art-deco style dial. Looking closer, I realize that the balance jewel is slightly flaked off on the outside but the hole seems fairly ok, possibly a bit enlarged. Checking the pivot, I see that it tapers off, I guess due to wear, towards the end which in combination with the possibly enlarged jewel hole ends with significant side shake. I found a replacement jewel in my small stash of jewels that seems to fit nicely on the pivot (as can be seen in the photo). I can’t make up my mind if the best approach is to leave things as they are or fit the replacement jewel and hope that works... Any thoughts or experiences from wear and tear like this is appreciated. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. bsoderling

    Dirty Dozen Vertex

    Hi, I had a similar issue up for discussion just a couple of weeks back and learned about overbanking from experienced fellows on the forum. I had replaced the ms in a movement similar to yours with a modern but correctly sized and it ran with 300+ amplitude and intermediate overbanking. Besides the advice to step down the strength of the ms it was also proposed to run the pallet stones dry which I tried with some success. After that I have just let the thing run for a while which also seems to have reduced the power of the ms as it seems to run ok now. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. bsoderling

    Worn case repair options

    Hi guys and thanks for all the feedback! The metals link was interesting for a beginner and I will continue googling for more info on metals and related soldering techniques as I’m sure there’s plenty to pick up. I’m sure you are right about replating costs and not sure I would even want to go that way if it was reasonable. If one starts to go down that restoration (rather than repair) road it kind of implies you have to do that with dial and hands as well to not have a result ”out of balance” in the end. In this case the dial and hands are fair but not at all perfect and with a re-plated casing I feel this would look awkward. Learning the basic practises of hard soldering is definitely enough on my plate right now and a good starting point. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. Hi all, The watches I tend to get my hands on to work with for a decently cheap price are often samples from the 30-40’ies and while the movement will often be possible to get in working order, the cases can be really crappy. I have several cases where the strap pin holes are worn to an open status (as in my attached photo) and no longer serve their purpose. Most people would probably chuck the entire watch in the bin but not me :-). Many of these older watches have fixed pins anyway so why not try to mount a pin by soldering or something. I suppose I will need to find a silver solder and use high temperature to make this work? If there’s any soldering experience or advice out there, I would appreciate any feedback. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. bsoderling

    Galloping Felsa 100...?

    And btw, this is what it looks like put together... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. bsoderling

    Galloping Felsa 100...?

    Hi and thanks a lot, that video tells it all! The mainspring is the specified size for the movement. But as it has been pointed out previously it seems that modern materials may have a great influence and the original spec’s is becoming more of a guidance to work from. I did clean out the pallet fork and escapement wheel from any oil and this did reduce the problem significantly and to only show up for the last few turns on the crown. This is (as all my watches) not a valuable piece and I will be happy if it runs decently without the desired lubrication. I will pick up on your advice and let it run for a few days to see if it cools down a bit. Maybe it’s a bit like an old friend said about issues with his old SAAB (the now gone Swedish car brand); I never touch it, it usually mends itself over time.... :-) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. bsoderling

    Galloping Felsa 100...?

    I have a feeling that the knocking started after I had added lubrication (9010) to the pallet stones (I tend to forget this during the assembly and have to fiddle with it later on [emoji1]). I think I will start with removing that oil and continue with the mainspring if it doesn’t help. I also note that the knocking goes away when the mainspring is somewhat unloaded and delivers less force. So maybe it doesn’t take too much to get rid of it over the entire winding span.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. bsoderling

    Galloping Felsa 100...?

    Googled a bit and found this: https://adjustingvintagewatches.com/amplitude-attacks-dealing-knocking/ Well explained and interesting. The author is even using my ”galopping” to describe what the sound resembles [emoji3]. Have to think a bit about next steps but generally very hesitant to fiddle with banking pins and/or pallet jewels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. bsoderling

    Galloping Felsa 100...?

    Hi Rodabod and thanks for the quick reply. Can you (or someone else) expand a bit on that for an amateur? Or a link to some write-up? I was kind of having a feeling that the high amplitude could be part of the problem but as I usually hear that one should strive for a 300 degree amplitude (which I usually never get to) I never took that feeling further. What can be done to reduce amplitude? I usually face the oppsite issue so this a new one for me. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. bsoderling

    Galloping Felsa 100...?

    Hi guys, I’m working on an old movement in the Felsa 100 series. Main problem was a broken mainspring so I got that replaced and after a cleaning the thing runs strong with an amplitude > 310 and nice straight lines with low beat eror on my timegrapher app. I actually haven’t seen any of my other watches of similar design and age run this well. But....the thing runs crazy about 2 shorter periods per minute as can be seeen in the timegrapher plot. I decided to record and listen to the tick sound and it’s pretty clear; during these periods the tick sounds more like a horse galopping rather than the steady stroll I hear in between. I presume something is going wrong in the interaction between balance jewel, pallet for and escapement wheel and would appreciate any ideas on the cause and what to do about it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. bsoderling

    Getting stated cleaning

    Hi Jakob and welcome to the forum, we’re a few Swedes here that show up now and then. Also an amateur I use the ”kemiskt ren bensin” you can buy from your local grocery store (ICA, coop) . It comes in plastic 200 ml bottles and the brand name is ”Gripen”. They do acethone and other stuff as well. These days you will have to find that special place in the store where they keep the inflammable stuff. I use (with warm tap water and some washing up liquid, not the bensin) a cheap ultrasonic machine I got from Kjell & co. Works fine for me. So far my entire lubrication supply consist of 9010/9020 & 8200 grease and that has worked so far. Thinking of getting some other grease as I find the 8200 a bit too liquid at higher temp’s. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk