Jump to content

bsoderling

Member
  • Content count

    147
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

bsoderling last won the day on March 24

bsoderling had the most liked content!

About bsoderling

  • Rank
    WRT Addict

Recent Profile Visitors

5,198 profile views
  1. bsoderling

    Balance wheel truing

    Hi and thanks for this interesting article (and website). It seems my initial thoughts on the usage of the tool were not that far off. The explanation for the through-holes in the pivot holders make sense, I just wonder why my tool only has them on one side? After ensuring that the wheel is resting on the pivot shoulder the truing operation is done by finger-force and there’s no mentioning about issues with breaking the staff rivet from this so I guess it should be fairly safe, assuming I got the riveting done properly. I will find a couple of scrap balances to practise on and see how it goes....
  2. bsoderling

    Balance wheel truing

    Makes sense... My balance wheel is of the closed type but I guess the process shoudn’t be that different? To hold the opposite arm firmly without gripping the wheel, I guess I could modify a pair of pliers to go over the wheel and just grip the arm? And the ”handle” with slots could then slide onto the arm to be bent and use as a lever to bend the arm? The narrowest slot fits nicely on the arm of my wheel. I was hoping that I could do all this with the wheel in the tool to get quick feedback but it may be asking for trouble... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. bsoderling

    Balance wheel truing

    Hi guys, Working on an old Pierce movement that initially needed a new balance staff. Got that sorted just to find that the wheel has a severe wobble. As far as I can judge it’s not my riveting that’s faulty but more likely the arms that were a bit skewed. Have been thinking to get a truing caliper (or whatever the tool is called) and just laid hands on one of the dual versions. As far as I can judge one of the sides has tiny holes that seems suited for the staff pivots and the other side allows a deeper setting that holds the staff on the ”shoulders”, minimizing the risk to break the pivots while truing. There’s also a small ”handle” that I assume can be used for bending and twisting. If there’s any know how with these operations I’d really appreciate some feedback on what to do and what to avoid. What I’m primarily worried about is the risk of breaking the riveting when applying the needed force to the wheel and arms. As far as I can understand the rivet has to withstand all the force applied. Photos are attached. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. Have used exactly this assortment from Cousins several times to replace click springs and similar. You will need some fine pointed pliers to get the shape desired (or at least functional) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. bsoderling

    A weird pocket watch

    Hi, To me that lower pivot with its rounded shape looks pretty much done for. I’ve had several movements with pivots looking similar (not completely broken off but kind of short and rounded) and they have been ”dead”. Usually this comes with a lot of end/side shake on the balance, so try that. /Bsoderling Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. Hi and thanks for all this valuable info. You obviously dived deep into this field of buying/servicing/collecting russian watches. The historical aspect of our hobby is something I find very rewarding. The mechanical watch development based on the Swiss technology and spreading out in various geographical (and political) directions is an entire industrial epoque in itself that came to a semi-standstill with the introduction of the cheap quartz technology. This obviously except for the continuation in high-end brands making ”mechanical” into a sales argument. On a related topic I learned from a collecting friend that one can find NOS watches from (I think) the early 80’s from Chinese sellers that are quite interesting from this aspect. These watches made for the domestic market have apparently been sitting on the shelves in China since those days, when the quartz revolution made them impossible to sell, even on the local Chinese market. My friend bought a ”bucket” of them a couple of years ago for very low prices and I helped him getting a few running as they had dried up completely. The one I kept as compensation for the work is running increadably well while being very basic when looking at the details with your ”swiss glasses” on. Now I realize that these watches are (as one could expect) also becoming collectibles and prices are going up by the day. The fun never lasts, does it... :-) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. Will do! Not in a while though, vacation time in hot burning Sweden right now. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. Hi, Got you... I was kind of thinking in the direction that maybe the Soviet versions from 60-70’s were considered ”original” and the ones of later, post-soviet days were labelled ”copies”. I presume there is actually a lot of Soviet era romanticism and money making around these newly produced Kommandaskies? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Hi VWatchie, been reading your posts on russian watches with interest. In this post you are are referring to your sample as. being a ”copy” . Can you expand a bit on this? I presume you are not talking about the common fake stuff with chinese movements as one can find in ”Rolex’s” etc. but something different and more genuine?
  10. So you use the test (solvent on glass sheet) to ensure the IPA is clean (= no residue ) whereas you don’t expect that from the lighter fluid that is primarily intended for burning and can be contaminated ? That makes a lot of sense to me and I will try that next time with the benzine I use for cleaning and rinsing. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. Hi, I find this test and conclusions a bit strange... The residue seen on the glass is what’s left after the solvent has evaporated i.e. It’s an indication of the level of impurities in the solvent, not a property of the solvent in itself (that’s not there anymore) As such this test can be used to determine if your solvent (benzine, alcohol, acethone ...) is as clean as you want it to be. But to determine if your solvent as such is good or bad, I see no guidance here. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. bsoderling

    Vostok questions

    Hi, Not sure if it’s the photos but to me it looks like your HS is heavily off-centered. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. Also a Swedish resident, I use the ”Gripen” benzine mentioned by VWatchie. And btw, the Gripen benzine works perfect as lighter fuel in my Zippo hand warmer I use a lot during winter ski tours, at the fraction of the cost for the original Zippo stuff. I use two small licqeur glasses and my hobbyist u/s machine with a squeeze of regular dish wash liquid in hot tap water. If I feel ambitious (and can stand the fumes) I add a splash of ammonia. The parts (in the natural group order) goes into the first benzine container for a few min’s and then into the u/s. After that back into the first benzine glass again with the main purpose to push out any remaining water from hidden places in the parts. The water separating property of the benzine is a cool one! Then over for a final rinse in the 2nd benzine glass and out to dry on a regular printer paper. Lately I have tried to re-use the benzine by pouring off the top section (the water is heavier and stays low) but noted I get some staining, probably from dissolved oils and grease so I will stop that and use fresh stuff every time. If I note any remaining stains on the jewels, I remove these with a wooden tooth pick. The procedure usually takes me a 1/2 hour for a regular manual movement, which works for an amateur and hobbyist, I guess. /Bsoderling Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. I bought a couple of ”Rolex” and ”Patek Philippe” on the street in Shanghai back in the mid 90’s that look a lot like this one. They never ran with any confidence but have served me well when in need for the odd missing screw and even inca bloc. /Bsoderling Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. bsoderling

    Felca (?) movement id help

    I think you nailed it! And it’s Felsa with an s not c, as I wrote. Thanks a lot! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
×