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bsoderling

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bsoderling last won the day on March 24 2018

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About bsoderling

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  1. Hi guys, GeorgeC kindly offered to send me a spring all the way from Kentucky to Sweden! And the video gives a very good insight in the practises needed, not for just getting the cap jewel in/out but also when, as in my case, the spring has come away alltogether. Thinking back, I believe a major mistake I made was to try to get the spring in with the cap jewel in place. This requires much more force on the one free leg to get it in as the spring also has to bend to fit the top curve of the jewel. That’s not saying it’s going to be easy or succesful doing it the ”good” way ... :-) But I will have to give it a try when the spring arrives! Thanks for all valuable contribution here. I hope there are others out there that can benefit as well. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. That makes sense! I was actually trying something in that direction but it felt as if the force needed would be too much. Wasn’t thinking about rotating a blade, which obviously offers more control. Decided to believe that the wide part that you pushed out might be the “hinge” that needed to stay in. Wrong decision obviously. I assembled the movement without the cap jewel and can’t really see that it has too much effect. Dial up/down doesn’t change much and the rate is easily adjusted. If it proves hard to get the spring, I might just leave as is. It’s not like the value will drop by any significant amount...:-)
  3. Thanks, will check on those. And then it’s the escapement wheel that has the end stones, not the pallet fork as I mistakenly wrote. I tried to make a spring from one of the assorted click springs I got from Cousins but that darned thing is really flat and even the thinnest click spring material won’t slip into the grove that holds the spring :-( Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. Picked up a dirt cheap sea-chief on the local auction site that expectedly turned out fake(ish) with a repainted dial. Movement appeared to the untrained eye decent even though grimy and oxidized, so decided an attempt to service. The pallet fork has end stones with tiny horseshoe shaped springs to hold in place and I obviously managed to break one in two when attempting to re-fit. Havent seen that type before and wonder if anyone can guide in the right direction for spares? And if there’s any best practise out there for mounting these nightmarish things, I’m all ears. The movement is stamped 107 under the balance and there’s a serial no as well. Haven’t been able to id it from that info and grateful for id-assistance. Is it legit or fake all the way? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. Hmmm...true. Didn’t note that. Why would anyone remove them (if that’s what happened). ? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. Besides what I mentioned previously, the parts look ok. Except...and this is a new thing for me. The roller is cracked along the cylindrical part. Haven’t seen that one before. Unless I get hold of a ”balance complete”, I guess the only thing to do is to say some prayers and hope it won’t fall apart completely? Photo is attached and comments/thoughts appreciated. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. You are spoiling us... :-) Let me check the details a bit when I have taken the thing apart. Then I will get in touch over PM. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. Thanks, I think you’re spot on ! Nothing on Ranfft for that either but found some pic’s on the web that definitely points in that direction. And Jeambrun sounds french enough... Next step is to pick it apart and asses the damages. The balstaff is gone to start and the top cap jewel as well. Maybe there is more lurking ”in there”...? If I’m really lucky, Rogart has some stuff in his drawers... :-) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Hi guys, Got my hands on another crappy movement...but with a nice dial that would be cool to keep alive. Can’t find any real id printed but some previous tinkerer have scribed in ”judex 217” and also ”F302” but there he apparently changed his mind as there’s a line going across as well. Have searched for judex 217 but can’t find any no’s that high in ranfft or elsewhere. The case back has a lot of french writing on it. Did judex have a french connection or is that just the watch brand? Have attached some relevant pic’s and appreciate any feedback. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Hi, Saw your new video and it’s pretty much in line with my experience. On some watches it works better on some not so good. Interesting alternative mic trial. The mic does have an influence but it will be a tough task to find one that really makes a change in the positive direction without lots of trial and (mostly) error. Looking forward to coming videos! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. Well...strange things happen all the time. Truly inspiring and I must agree with your fundamental conclusion, if you want something that works simply and flawlessly out of the box, the Weishi is definitely not over priced. But still...there’s something about exploring the underlying reasons and possibly try to improve what you have. Kind of the same sentiment that makes watch work interesting... Some quick feedback from my experiences that might be interesting for others. - I find it consistently easier to get good readings with an open case and the mic directly over the escapement. Again I guess that has to do with limitations of the mic (and possibly the signal conditioning that follows). - I usually step back on the sensitivity to the point where I get no readings (or zero sensitivity) and then step up to where I get the most stable plot and reading. Sometimes this is significantly lower than the default 12 setting. - I tend to always use the noise cancellation option in the settings menu. Especially when it’s hard to get an amplitude reading this allows to increase the sensitivity without getting rubbish data. - It’s difficult to get completely clear lines, there will always be some outliers. To me this indicate that the s/w that detects the relevant points in the signal isn’t smart enough to sort these out as erroneous. Alternatively it’s the signal conditioning/filtering that could be better. - Fundamentally I wouldn’t trust the average readings produced when the plot looks like as with your 2nd watch. Garbage in => garbage out and averaging shouldn’t make it more reliable (unless there is actually more going on that we don’t see that removes outlier data) To conclude, it would be great with a follow up where you try to tweak the performance a bit. But I realize I’m probably a bit too nerdy here... :-) And I still wouldn’t be surprised if a better mic and some analogue filtering could do magic with the performance of the app. I know there are posts on that subject on the forum and I’ll see what I can dig out there. And you got yourself a new follower on youtube... :-) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. Hi all, I’m a fan of the timegrapher app for Iphone and have been using it for a long time, with reasonable result for my needs. My assumption is that the weak spot is the mic where you are using the built-in mic in the head set that comes with the phone. My question is if there’s any experience out there from building/adapting an alternative mic to plug into the head set input on the phone. I have seen many posts where people have designed pc s/w and built mic’s that plug into your pc and I would guess one could do the same with the Iphone. Any feedback is appreciated. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. Hi and thanks for adding some background to the use of these oils. Generally I find lubrication complicated and like you say, there is probably a lot of overlap between oils and where to use them. I usually tinker with older movements from 40-60’s and I can’t help seeing the parallell with a discussion over what hi-grade synthetic oil to use in your old Volvo Amazon. That thing would run on anything, just as my old watches are probably happy with the 9020 all over. Different of course with a moden precision design from a prestige maker. And the parallell with a modern car is valid there as well. Wouldn’t let anyone close without a proper degree and tools Good luck with the green house, had one set-up for my wife last year and that was pretty tiring work. Glass weighs a lot! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. The HP1300 is a slightly “thicker” oil than the 9020? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. Another thing... I guess one has to lubricate this thing after the assembly? My take would be some 9020 on positions/pivots that can be accessed from outside. Would you agree? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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