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bsoderling

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bsoderling last won the day on March 24 2018

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About bsoderling

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  1. That’s a relevant concern. And if you’re a pro charging money for what you do for others, l’m all with you. Unless you clearly explain the choises and related costs. But as a way of finding out the underlying cause for a hard to diagnose problem, I still find this a good idea and would really like something similar for the non-shock proof movements I often fight with. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. Thanks guys, I got you...I guess every short cut has its limitations. It would be great though, to have a method to determine if a slightly worn pivot is the cause for problem also on these movements without shock protection, without going to the effort of sourcing a bal-staff and staking it in. I have done that and succeded but also failed miserably. And these have been clear broken pivots and there’s been no choise. It’s probably off topic but another thing that annoys me on these Pierce movements is that there’s no screw driver slot in the timing pin boot and I have to grab the thing sideways with pliers to turn it and release the h/s. Scary operation as it’s real easy to slip an damage h/s or the timing pin. Was there a tool for this to go on top of the boot in the old days? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. This is a brilliant idea! And if not entirely according to the books, it at least serves as an excellent diagnostic tool. I am currently struggling with a couple of older Pierce 103’s with exactly this problem; perfectly decent amplitude dial down, barely swings dial up. But then these are no-shock proof items and flipping end stone doesn’t work as it’s mounted in a setting. But if the problem is really the staff shoulder rubbing on the hole jewel, would a reasonable try-out be to push the hole jewel a few microns towards the end stone ? This obviously depend on there being some space left between the jewel and end stone. The main difference here seems to be that flipping end stone will actually reduce end shake whereas pushing the jewel out will not. I do have the jewel setting tool and should be able to do this but wanted some feedback on the thought first. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. A few final words... Yes!! Got it back working! The precision of plates and bridges was nothing to bragg about and it took me many hours to realize how to get it back running. The balance bridge was more or less press fit and had to be forced down with the screw as the two guiding pins were just a tiny bit too widely spaced for it to go in smoothly. But when finally there it started to tick. Also had to shim under the bridge with a piece of al foil to avoid sticking. Attached a photo. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. That’s correct, pushing that pin sideways is supposed to release the m/s and probably will when everything has been cleaned and massaged a bit. As it was, everything was clogged up and wouldn’t operate as it should. I took a chance and took it apart after some running time. And I was lucky, nothing took off... Still looking for that thing that will release the winding stem though... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. Thanks for all contribution towards documentation. Will download and I’m sure this will be beneficial to many others as well. Have started to take the “mystery movement” apart and wanted to share some interior photos. It sure doesn’t look like anything I have encountered before. For the moment I’m puzzled by the fact that there’s no obvious way to release the winding stem. There’s no corresponding screw or push button on the dial side that would losen the setting lever. Maybe it’s hiding under the “block” holding the keyless parts. But that seems very unintuitive somehow. Please feedback if the added photos rings a bell with anyone. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. Hi all and thanks for all info. Will start to go through it all over the week end. I have also looked for a way of letting down the m/s. I can see that the ratchet wheel is on the ”wrong” side though. And there seems to be a few Junghans made that way. The Ranfft samples are not identical though, if I look at the bridge designs. It’s just running as it sits right now so I will let it run out the ”natural” way before attempting anything. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. Junghans may be an alternative to check up on Ranfft. I measure the dimensions to 26,5 x 20 mm. I haven’t seen any identifying symbols or numbers so far. If anything shows up during disassembly, I will report back. The brand name on the dial states ”Nidor” but that’s one of those old names, I see from time to time and it doesn’t say much about the movement inside, or what do you think? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. It’s been a while since I last tempted you with a movement id question, but here we go again... Found this rather unusual movement in an old tank style watch. At first I thought it would be a cheap pin lever but at closer look, it’s a decently jewelled regular swiss lever. Still rather ”cost concious” design, in my eyes. But it actually runs (sometimes and a bit sluggish) so I will put it through the cleaning procedure and see where it ends as the case, dial and hands are in pretty good condition. Curious about the movement though and appreciate any hints. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Ouch...I assembled the whole thing and right now I can’t bring myself to tear it apart again, I’m afraid. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. Hi again, Running out of ideas, I decided to try a somewhat counterintuitive approach. With the main trouble being the h/s touching the reg pin from the outside, I decided to remedy that to start. I slightly straightened the h/s right across from the stud i.e. Moving the entire h/s in the ”wrong” direction and effectively increasing the error between collet and jewel hole. What then happens when ”forcing” the collet to be over the jewel hole is that the hairspring gets a bit distorted with tighter turns on the regulator side. But....the error introduced by the straightening gets spread out over many h/s turns and there’s still space between the spring and the the reg pin. Looks a bit ugly but runs very well again and hopefully interesting for some h/s nerds out there. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. Thanks John, On the other hand, there’s a thin line between developing your skills and being too bold... Luckily there are lots of cheap stuff around to go wild and crazy with. I have another thread going on the forum concerning h/s adjustment that is driving me nuts. I got that one for something like 1 euro. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. The thought has struck me as well that this may be the case. I will try some more, maybe there’s a compromize that works? And I was also thinking that maybe I can find a regulator from a scrap movement with a slightly longer distance from center to reg pin that offer a tiny bit more space for the first h/s turn? Any comments to that idea? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. No worries, just wanted you to know that I’m experienced enough to know my limitations. Have serviced and ”repaired” up towards a 100 wrist watches of cheaper origin and age and know that unexpected things may happen any time concentration slips. Mainspring swap should be in my reach here but I’ll tread carefully. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. Thanks jdm, As mentioned earlier my experience from pw-repair and parts is really nothing to write home about and I was assuming that mainsprings with endings as indicated might not be in supply by Cousins. If I’m wrong I’m all the happier. Will investigate closer what they have. And I’m sure you are right, a full repair definitely require competence way beyond me Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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