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bsoderling last won the day on March 24 2018

bsoderling had the most liked content!

About bsoderling

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  1. Hi and thanks for adding some background to the use of these oils. Generally I find lubrication complicated and like you say, there is probably a lot of overlap between oils and where to use them. I usually tinker with older movements from 40-60’s and I can’t help seeing the parallell with a discussion over what hi-grade synthetic oil to use in your old Volvo Amazon. That thing would run on anything, just as my old watches are probably happy with the 9020 all over. Different of course with a moden precision design from a prestige maker. And the parallell with a modern car is valid there as well. Wouldn’t let anyone close without a proper degree and tools Good luck with the green house, had one set-up for my wife last year and that was pretty tiring work. Glass weighs a lot! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. The HP1300 is a slightly “thicker” oil than the 9020? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. Another thing... I guess one has to lubricate this thing after the assembly? My take would be some 9020 on positions/pivots that can be accessed from outside. Would you agree? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. Hi, That’s an absolutely amazing work-through! The main picture is your no. 7 that clearly shows where I went wrong and tried to position the wheel where it should eventually be, causing the springs to be loaded and the whole assembly unstable and ready to fire off at any slight movement, like putting the cover on. In the mean time I fumbled along the idea to push in the spring from the side with a fine oiler. I have attached a photo showing the side view with the slot between the base and the cover. After (too) many trials I think I got it there. But I think your method is more correct and general as an approach to tricky designs. No load on springs and then position the parts with the cover in place. t Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. You may be on to something.... The click spring can be managed after putting the cover on and not tightening the screw. There are parts sticking out that can be pushed until the click catches onto the wheel. For the other spring, I just noted that the cover is thinned out at the edge where the spring is sitting under. Might be enough room to push the outer leg of the spring in with an oiler until it goes into the recess...? Will try when not so tired. Bad idea to end the evening with a spring flying into space .... Not the most brilliant design this one though... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. Hi guys, Working on an AS2063 and stumbling on how to assemble the parts for the automatic winding. The photo shows the parts as they should sit under the cover. But all the parts are under tension from two opposite springs and just ”sitting there ” on single sided pivots until I can get the cover on. And the parts just won’t sit there stably and the springs are flying all over the place (knees hurting from sliding around on the floor to find them). Is there a magic trick here ? Sometimes you can push springs into position after having losely positioned the cover but on this one it’s all nicely covered and I can’t access anything with the cover on. If there’s any experience out there from this or similar designs, I’m grateful for any help. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/dial-feet-spots-strips The link above should take you to Cousins and their dial feets. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. Cousins have them in a wide variety, both assortments and specific sizes, cheap and a bit more pricy. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Looks like you found some good stuff there...I found myself a really bad spring cold. No fun when the sun is shining and you want to be out enjoying the nice weather. And watch work with a runny nose isn’t to recommend either... Tradera is the place where I usually find my cheap objects to tinker with. Ebay too often ends up costing more to get the thing home than what the seller gets. I guess I need to take a step up on the value ladder to fix that balance but somehow that takes away a bit of the charm for an amateur like myself. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. I think I had my eyes on this one when it was out for sale on Swedish Tradera...? Decided someone else needed it better and was obviously correct :-) Btw, what glue did you use for the dial feets? Have tried epoxy and superglue but find it hard to make them stick. Nice job! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. Couldn't leave this question and googled around a bit and found what might be part of the answer! On the Oris website I found a passage talking about the "Swiss watch statute" that was apparently and strangely enough a Swiss law that prevented watch companies from introducing new technology without government permission. The law was set in place in 1934 and some companies that weren't on the Swiss lever design at that time were in many cases prevented to do so. Oris was one of them and maybe the company behind my movement as well. I suppose the law was pulled back at some point but maybe some companies just went on with what they were good at? Regarding my watch, it's now serviced and running again. And to my surprise very well! Less than 10 sec. deviation and fairly nice curves on my Timegrapher Iphone app. Better than I am able to get on many of the oldies I tinker with.
  12. I have heard about those cases where jewels appeared in creative places without function just to get the stone count up. But that’s not the case here, all jewels are functional and in places where I would have expected them to be in a decent movement from the time. There’s even an Incabloc-like shock protection for the balance. So why stop there and save up on the remaining few parts in the escapement? Strange.... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. Hi, Picked up what I thought would be another standard watch with a regular 17 jewels movement to work on. Dial looked kind of cool, I thought. But when opening I find my first pin lever movement, EB 8202 is stamped on the base plate. And to my surprise there’s quite some efforts going into the thing; there are jewels everywhere, even one in the base plate for the center wheel. There is shock proof of some elaborate kind and cap jewels on a couple of train wheels. So I’m curious as to why they went through allt the efforts and money spending on the design and parts and then went for a simple pin lever escapement that should pull down the precision and durability significantly, if I get things right? Always curious to learn about the industry, so if there are thoughts out there I’m interested. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. Hi, speedtimerkollektion.com seem to have several 4006 watches/movements for spares/repair. Not cheap though.... They also show many parts but not escape wheel . Might still be worth asking.... The p/n is 251805 acc. To the data sheet from Cousins. Might be worth checking other sheets to see if the p/n is used in some other Seiko movement. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. Hi and thanks for the feedback! Rogart, if you should stumble on something in your drawers, please get in touch. Maybe we can work something out? Generally I find these issues of finding parts that works across versions troubling. There are so many if’s and but’s and I don’t like the feeling when ordering a bunch of parts that sum up to several times more than what I paid for the watch in the first place and possibly finding out they won’t actually fit. One of these things is the N extension that HSL mentions. I have seen the same thing from other manufacturers. First I thought this related to the intro of inca but that doesn’t seem to be the case. Ranfft is just hinting that this has to do with ”modified design to balance and staff” but nothing regarding consequences and compatibility across versions. My best bet is probably to hunt for a replacement or donor movement. As long as I find a working one from the same basic family I hope it will fit the dial and case I have? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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