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As5008 was/is the valjoux of AS in alarm movements class, in most brands.Here is a fortis brainmatic AS5008.

What I was saying above is that "staffs" are never referenced, only the balance complete is. And if you take apart one of these most likely it will not run properly if put back together.

I don't think the balance staff was changed, but that's not relevant to practical repair because only the balance complete is orderable, and it not meant to be taken apart. What was changed on the balance complete is just the hairspring end stud. One can fit A/B/C types across versions as long the arm (in practice, the entire balance cock) is matching the end stud. These also fit Seiko 4R, 6R series and their SII equivalents, although the latter have different P/Ns and materials and finishing.

As noted, the 7009 has the same balance as the 7S26A. For 7S26 parts change across versions one can check my table: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vRN2UULQKTfKmhRStZhDdIOIQrqd6sPB-g6x2SKyQQjOvTBjG_7TQXQhAT4f1WqAX5QAPkIimi-3jqd/pubhtml

Time to lower the tone again I'm afraid. Just before Christmas, I decided to see what was the cheapest new analog watch on ebay. I wanted a baseline to compare everything else to. Here it is. It cost a whopping 76 pence, new, shipped from China, and included a battery. It is of course truly dreadful. The case is plastic, the strap is.. something unidentifiable. It was covered in dust when it arrived, and I suspect wearing it may give me a rash, but its a risk I'm willing to take for science. It has run, (ticking rather loudly, amplified by the chap plastic case and thin metal dial) since it arrived in late January, and only gained about a minute over that period, so not exactly accurate, but not dreadful either. I have no idea how long the battery will last, probably about the same length of time as the "leather" plasticized cardboard strap, but for 76p you get two spring bars, a set of "fake lumed" hands, and matching fake pushers and fake chrono dial, a no-name Chinesium movement, a battery and a high potential for contact dermatitis. You will of course observe that what I received bears no relation to the picture on the original advert, so even the advert is fake. What more could you want for your money. Oh.. and it has a blue dial, so I'm slightly warming to it.. or is maybe that is the skin reaction kicking in. The depressing thing is, the Daniel Wellington I picked up used, for 99p is actually not that much better. It does have a metal case, and the dial and hands are slightly higher quality, and the original strap may actually have been leather (it arrived on a cheap nato replacement) but bear in mind that when new it would have cost between 100 and 200 times as much.

Seiko Asymmetric today Paid more for an extra link as I did the watch IIRC [emoji35] Got a black dial one waiting for me to transplant a new movement too but that one came from Japan so needs two extra links [emoji37]

Sorry forgot about the movement porn bit... unforgivable I know. This one has an little bit odd one .. lets call it a Certina 28-10 humping around with the odd oscillation of 19800A/h ..

that is true, now, since there has been an economic trade war between the two since the late 80s but has recently been ramped up, but not before and sometimes in between when agreements are made. lamborghini at one time were assembled in france but not since audi owned them and they are now made in italy, since germans outsource vehicles to italy such as porsche. bugattis are assembled in france as well. armani exchange has clothing made in france. higher end brands like Gucci YES are made in italy, but most of lower end brands as you know outsource same as america, it cost less

Well the plot thickens as I remember from school the V in german is pronounced as a F so it would sound little like FolksWagen in an harsh way.. Here is an Certina Waterking in a VW, matching in every way down to the dust specks on the glass... why have a digital clock in your car when it can look like this.

He's a spammer - and he's now banned.

Right, The HS on some of balance complete were not meant to be replacable, the collet breaks comes out in pieces.

My understanding is the 7*** series are all of the same family, nevertheless, staffs are refernced differently. May fit but not exact same.

While it's common knowledge that Italy has not produced any watch movement since the late '70s or early '80s and even back then just very few basic ones, I'm not sure what do you mean with "outsource to france". Italian cars (FCA) are actually either made in Italy, or in other EU countries, but not in France, and vice-versa. Italian mid and high-tier clothing is still made in Italy, and as such indicated on the label. About fashion watches the strongest mov.t supplier are actually the Japanese, interestingly SII and Miyota (Seiko and Citizen respectively) mechanical movements are actually made in Japan, but these are used on micro-brands, not fashion.

The subject of lubrication has been covered on many, many occasions on this forum. I prefer Moebius oils because they are a tried and tested lubricant. They are not cheap but a 20ml bottle will lubricate a lot of watches.

I use a optivisor occasionally when working on a clock because great magnification is not necessary. However for watches I use various strength eyeglasses held with the pressure with my eye socket. I have tried the various eye glass holders and have never been happy with any of them. However it is what suits the individual and many prefer eye glass holders or holders that attach to spectacles.

Well that didn't last long. The unyielding rigid plasticyness of the strap started to get on my nerves, so I swapped it for something with a little more class. I like this little watch, the gold plated case with its contoured lugs and the textured dial are very appealing. In the end I didn't swap the crystal, but gave it a pretty deep polish instead. It is on a soft dark tan leather band. Much more comfortable, and less jarring on the eye.

Blue steel can't be cut with a jeweler's saw but can be filed. That used to be how they checked the repivoting exam for clocks back in the day- saw bites, fail, file doesn't bite, fail. The commercially available blue steel bars watch and clockmakers typically use is very hit or miss. The nomial size is often way off (not such a big problem), and the heat treatment can vary between too soft, uneven, or sometimes actually ok. I have some and use it for pins and such. For staffs, stems, pinions- anything from steel- I use oil hardening steel in its annealed state. The standard in Switzerland is Sandvik 20AP, probably not so easy to find in small quantities elsewhere. In the U.S. O1 would be the closest thing (and is a fine steel for watch parts). Parts get hardened and tempered after machining, with generally the last 0.01mm or removed in finishing for bearing surfaces. For a staff I cut everything right to size except the pivots which are a good 0.10mm oversized, and I leave the taper for the roller table straight and oversized. After heat treatment, holding on the now straight roller diameter the top pivot is brought to 0.01mm over final size, the surfaces polished, rivet formed. Flip around and do lower pivot, roller taper, polish. Finally finish pivots in jacot. Heat treatment is a little different than most books or schools teach. I use an iron tube welded to a long thin bar. These are actually CO2 or N2O cartridges from selzer or whipped cream bottles with the neck cut off (about the size of the first two digits of an index finger). This gets filled about 1/3 with fine wood charcoal powder, parts go in, filled the rest of the way. The whole thing is torch heated until glowing orange, then the contents dumped in oil. The parts fished out with a magnet, and they are a nice grey color and very clean. After cleaning off the oil they are blued in a pan of fine brass filings over an alcohol lamp. With the above method there is rarely any deformation of even long thin parts, and no pitting.

The last one looks like old nails, tho these are bran new, you might find some if you take off a back of a longcase clock or any very old antique furniture, and as Vinn3 said also used on timber floors.

#1 is the Horia pivot polisher, they call it the MTM https://www.horia.ch/en/Products/ApparatusMandMTM/Assortment/MTM-device.html beautiful tool, and yes they are rather proud of it

I got some stuff from Esslinger and have had a hard time working with it. It's almost impossible to cut into pieces. Tried using a jewelers saw, no luck. Graver won't part it--at least not in any reasonable length of time. Doesn't want to be cut into pieces with snips either. Definitely not getting curls of sworf and, yes, I am making dust. Takes forever to make any progress. Tried to anneal it but still application of my graver still yields a kind of brittle powder. Didn't think about finishing down to size with the Jacot tool. Thanks!

CousinsUK stock a mainspring for the 6601A movement, a Generale Ressorts GR3507X

With the C version, Seiko changed the balance staff and regulation system entirely. They aren't compatible with any other model to my knowledge except the B version which was replaced by the C version.

My reading skills totally suck I didn't notice the letter C and you're right that changes the answer totally. So the correct cross reference should look like this. 0310197 BALANCE COMPLETE WITH STUD SEK 7S26C 21 JEWELS SEK 7S36C

Part # of Balance complete with stud for 7S26C is 0310197 and for 7009 is 310 020, so I'm afraid they are not compatible. However the balance in 7S26A is 310 020, so it is the same than in 7009.

I presume that means that if you use a ... 0310020 BALANCE COMPLETE 721/1909 It should work with all of the movements listed?

0310020 BALANCE COMPLETE 721/1909 BLF 12G1B2 21600 BPH-17JL-AUTO-CALD JUB 1201 JUB 1202 PUL Y621 QUA 12G1B2 21,600 BPH-17JL-AUTO-CALENDAR SEK 7001A 17 JL-21,600 BPH-DSS-AUTO SEK 7002A SEK 7005A 21,600 BPH-17 JL-SHOCK-DSS-AUTO-CALENDAR SEK 7006A 21,600 BPH-17 & 21 JL (19 JL)-DSS-AUTO-CALD(DAY DATE) SEK 7009A 21,600 BPH-17 JL-SHOCK-DSS-AUTO-CAL. (DAY DATE) SEK 7015A 21600 BPH 21JL AUTO CHRONO CALD (DAY/DATE) SEK 7016A 17JL 21600BPH CHRONO AUTO CALD DAY DATE SEK 7017A 21JL 21600 BPH AUTO CHRONO CALENDAR (DAY/DATE) SHOCK ADJ STD SEK 7018A 21600 BPH 23JL AUTO CHRONO CAL (DAY/DATE) ADJ STUD HOLD SEK 7018B 23JL 21600 BPH CHRONO AUTO CALD (DAY/DATE) SEK 7019A 21,600 BPH 21 JL DSS AUTO CAL (DAY-DATE) SEK 7025A 21,600 BPH-SHOCK-17 JL-DSS-AUTO-CALD W/CORR-ADJ STUD H SEK 7S26A SEK 7S36A SEE TECH GUIDE FOR DESCRIPTIONS OF DAY DIALS UTC 37 21,600 BPH 17JL DSS AUTO CAL UTC 38 21600 BPH-DSS-AUTO-CALD (DAY/DATE)-SHOCK WCX A331-1 21,600 BPH-17 JL-SHOCK-DSS-AUTO-CALENDAR WCX A361-1 21,600 BPH-17-19-21 JL-DSS-AUTO-CALD-(DAY-DATE) SHOCK

Nope. I have no idea. In fact, I can only think of one way to find out. Well two actually, but the second one requires carefully measuring and photographing them both, so I suspect I would just try it and see. .. well three... I can only think of three ways to find out. If you can figure out the part numbers for each, and if they match.. but I guess that is stating the obvious. OK Four ways... check with ranff.. the balance staffs look to be different. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Seiko_7009A http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Seiko_7S26A .. but that doesn't mean you cant try it and see.

outstanding.

ok the alviero martini (italian fashion designer) watch is basically a fashion watch, which means that movement could very well be a technotime which is french, and italians notoriously do outsource to france for many things from clothing to cars. most fashion watches arent always made using swiss movements, the one ive seen use chinese movements. first things first: -measure the diameter of the movement (Use ligne size - take the mm and convert to ligne on google mm-ligne converter) -measure height of the movement from top of the center pinion where minute hand attaches (use mm) -measure stem height from bottom side of movement (dial side) to the middle of the hole where stem goes (use mm) then go to esllinger.com and get a Harley Rhonda quartz movement that fits the measurements you just took. they are fairly cheap from $8-$25. also you will have to measure stem length and cut accordingly so crown will lay flush to side of case when seated (do not use the old stem as a reference outside the case) you can install the old stem into the old movement and the measure the length that it sticks out, then cut the new stem at the same length when its installed in the new movement (dont do this until you find the correct crown) because you may possibly need a new crown to fit the case and thread onto the rhonda stem. measuring a crown with a caliper can be difficult because its hard to measure the tube height and diameter. you can get an assortment of crowns from esslinger as well. the old crown may fit the threads so try that first. as far as dials go for the rhonda there are many to choose from.

Picked up this Sandoz Alarm watch, a bit big for my wrist, but it has a certain retro charm