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do you value this watch in any way? If the answer is yes then it's not going to be the first watch you repair your going to start on something disposable. On the other hand if you don't care about the watch that can be your first watch to repair. Everybody starting watch repair has an unfortunate habit of breaking things. It's part of learning watch repair and unfortunately breaking things especially vintage things usually does not end well. then can we have a picture of your grandfather's watch?

Thanks for all the help Jdm, that was just a temporary fix until OP finds the broken pivot. We need advise how to weld it back on.

Surely no joke. Working agent is phosporic acid, a maior ingredient of Coke. Frank

Hi The fitting of a shim is NOT a fix its a diagnostic aid in as much as to slightly increase the end shake of the balance when trying to determine the problem, and once proved on way or the other, then removed and look to rectifying the problem. I have had watches where the end shake was adjusted by digging a divot in the plate there fore raising the the balance cock and increasing the endshake also had them with shims in to do the same both left as a permanent fix Not reccomended.

This could just get a 'bit' picture heavy.....I haven't counted them for a while but I have at least 50........ Here is one to be going on with.....Its a 0903-8007 from January 1975....and as it has the 0903 movement it has a feature that I don't think any other Seiko movement has, a trio-lingual day wheel, in this case English, French and German.....

Turn the movement like 90degrees, forgot if clock or anti clock.

I’ll double check that mate, cheers for the input

yes technically are looking for voltage of but often times on analog meters if you go to the lowest current range possible the superlow microamp range you're putting the voltage directly across the meter with nothing in the way for the most part and that gives you the most sensitive range versus the voltage range which is usually much higher. And then I find when you're on that supersensitive range you will see the needle twitch a little bit up-and-down but of course as you pointed out the pulses are too short to actually measure anything.. bbut you do get a really good clue that you are getting pulses out..

Thanks, gentlemen. JohnR275, those book pages are priceless! Many thanks for scanning and providing them. Paragraph "f" on page 125 would have probably saved me a bit of trouble, as it talks about prying up the circuit at the "spring contacts". Truth be told, there's not a lot of "spring" there. I guess I should have checked the coil before I installed the circuit. Oh well. I am very pleased to have this information. Again, many thanks. And AndyHull, I guess I'm showing my ignorance on electronics. Thanks for clearing up my misconception about the meter, etc. I may reinstall the battery and check for voltage after I absorb the pages that JohnR275 kindly provided. Cheers. On a related note, I did notice that the AWCI is holding a quartz watch webinar on 6/24. It looks like one could join in without being a member by paying a few dollars more. I'll probably give that a shot. I mention it in case someone else is interested and I am correct in my belief of non-member access. You guys, and the WRT/WRC, are sooo dang helpful. I can't thank you enough.

Drilling hardened steel and also small diameters is always an issue. If you do the math for proper surface speed at say 0.50mm you get figures ranging from 5k to 50k or more (especially dropping diameter down to say 0.25mm). Levin, as in the author and lathe manufacturer, put out a pamphlet way back in the 60s I think that broke that apart. Essentially they illustrated that at high rpm unless you can accurately feed a drill so it's taking x-amount of material off per revolution, you will likely fail. Also that materials respond differently at small diameters. I have a cnc machine with a 10k spindle, and can tell it how much to take per tooth per rev, works great. When hand feeding, lower rpm is really better. I generally don't go above 1.5k or 2k. If the tool isn't making a chip, it's rubbing, and rubbing work hardens most materials, which makes it harder to get through that skin, then with the added force boom it either implodes from a combination of worn tool (from rubbing) and impenetrable workpiece, or the tool manages to get through then takes a monster chip and breaks. With tungsten carbide, even the glass hard French clock arbors can be drilled*. But it has to cut. In school we had hand cranked lathes, easy to make say 20 revs, pull the drill and check for/ clear chips, keep going to depth. Much preferable to make a hole in 10 minutes instead of 2, but not have to deal with a broken drill in the hole! *back in the day the crazy guys would quench drills in mercury to get them hard enough to drill those arbors. Works for steel gravers too. Yes I tried.... (outside).

I'm just getting started! I've pretty much got the date codes sorted now, that's a plus.

I mentioned to my old boss that phosphoric acid is in coke and he laughed and bet me 100 bucks I was wrong. He grabbed a bottle of phosphoric out of his chemical cabinet to show me how degraded the label was, no way we ingest that. Easiest 100 bucks I ever made. I stick to water and beer for ingesting.

I finally got round to replacing the crystal on this Bifora 115/CLD based "F Hinds" 17 jewel, which has been waiting patiently since December 2018 for me to do something about its cosmetic imperfections. Its one I wear fairly regularly, (hence the slightly scruffy strap), so I thought since I'm on a horrible crystals purge, it deserved "the treatment". The crystal for this one came from our very own luiazazrambo via ebay. He just so happened to be the only seller I could find with the correct high dome in the correct size. I didn't even know it was his seller ID, till he PM'ed me after I had made the purchase. Its a small world. Thanks again for a prompt and painless transaction. Here is a little info about the German manufacturer Bifora. http://www.bifora-ev.de/bifora-freundeskreis/museum.html

Today I received this beautiful Omega Genève from 1968 with blue dial. Iit was sold as not running, but with the optical condition and the ridiculously low price I just couldn't say no When I opened it a screw fell right out the movement. I noticed that it should hold one of the caseclamps in place, which was missing. I guessed that the caseclamp made its way into the train of wheels, causing the watch to stop. So I carefully shaked the watch and volià, the clamp fell out and the movement began to run. I resecured the clamp with the screw. The movement looks really dirty though, so it will definitly benefit from a service. The results on the timegrapher confirmed that, so there is still work to do I also fittet an original Omega buckle to the strap.

Indeed, well spotted.

Started, managed, and funded it since the beginning. Considering that It would be just fair that beginners and others would consider enrolling in his excellent training at watchrepairlessons.com, or becoming a Patron. That much I did myself too.

That is because (fortunately for you) you haven't become a real Seiko buff yet. Otherwise you will know and easily remember not only the sales model, but the case reference, years of production, remarkable elements, and approximate street price. That being said, an SKX "true diver" is and will be always the best purchase to make in Seiko. It is guaranteed to bring a wide smile to the face of any man receiving it and many ladies too. The "entry level" SNK is popular, but can't really compare. [EDIT] Sorry I see now only that the gift is for a young lady. Do not think, even for a moment, that, in general, a lady will appreciate a men's watch, mechanical watch, or a men's taste watch. Women are (fortunately) created different. If you want to surprise her, consider her tasts in general, love for fashion brands, for colors, for lifestyle. Choose along these lines not because you think the watch "is good" or even worse because "you like it". If you do, she will smile and be thankful, but it won't be the watch she would have bought. Also being a quartz module is really preferable, because that will make it ready to be worn and changed around at anytime.

Just picked this up for 25.00. has a split stem and the seller thought the stem was broken but it just needed pushed back in to reconnect Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I think you will enjoy your new watch more if you have a professional get it working right away and then pursue the hobby in its own right that's just my opinion.

Not really. The figure you are looking at is the "Impedance" figure. Specifically the impedance for the voltage ranges. This is quoted as 10M Ohms. With the coil in place, you are measuring voltage across a 2k Ohm coil, but without it, there is no load, except for the 10M Ohms of the meter, so very little current will flow, assuming the coil driving transistor conducts at all, and therefore the pulses may be much less obvious. Remember, you are looking for voltage pulses, so you need the meter on voltage to do this test. You may see some activity. On my meter I see quick pulses where the readings jump about once per second. Because the pulse is quite short, you don't see a nice 0V 1.5V 0V 1.5V transition, but it is obvious that the circuit block is doing what it should be. On some circuits, the pulses may be at 1/2, 1/4 or 1/8 second intervals, and on some (Timex 2 handers for example) the pulses may be once per minute. In your case, I think they will be in the 1, 2 or 4 pulses per second range. The service information should tell you this, but if you don't have that, then this is what to look for. If the circuit is not working, you will probably just see a bunch of random readings hovering around a single value (random noise). EDIT: Some (all?) quartz testers pick up the changes in the magnetic field of the coil when it is energised, and give you a beep or click every time the coil is energised. If the coil is open, then they wont click, as there is no magnetic field. However this doesn't actually tell you what has failed, since if the circuit has failed rather than the coil, you will also see (hear) no pulses.

the reason for asking the question is if I was running before it should be running again and you shouldn't have to put shims under the balance wheel that correct for I have no idea what? then your first picture was taken at the wrong angle as it's really hard for me to see what I think I'm seeing? It almost looks like the balance bridge is not down all the way it's up a little on the right-hand side? you should make sure the balance bridge is down tight and parallel and that the balance wheel can still spin before you put the screw in

@JohnR725, could you please try to rephrase that question? I'm afraid I I don't understand it. Thanks! so what I'm saying is purchase a horological lubrication it has a expire by date which basically means use within this time span. So purchase a lubrication that says it's good for five years at basically five years you lubricate a watch now how long is the lubrication supposed to last? We don't actually get a how long does it last in the watch date. Obviously if it has a five-year shelf life and you lubricate a watch and let's just make a guess the watch will last five years out to the field then maybe we just multiply all those dates by two. So basically the lubrication now has a 10 year life. then it's a modern synthetic oil shouldn't have anything to break down hopefully and maybe in real life it's good for three times its life you wouldn't want your watches all disintegrate exactly 5 years from the last day of your oil expiring would you? So basically I'm saying is all the lubrication's at least the synthetic ones should have a really really long life. That is unless you're running a commercial shop you getting paid for your watches then you can afford to replace all your lubricants every whatever number of years it's part of doing business.

while looking for something else I stumble across misplaced book. It's part of a three volume set and I only had the second and third and finally found my first volume. So it is a few pages on your watch I've scanned it for you. Girard Perregaux C641.PDF

Just because it is almost new you could have done something during the service....did you take the balance out properly? Did you you check balance staff under very high magnification? Did you peg the jewels and Possibly push them out of position? Did you reattach the hairspring to the regulator stud properly that is if you removed it from the cock during service? I would agree with shimming the balance cock but this should rarely need to be done on a fairly new movement. I would put money on a cracked jewel/bent staff ( which could happen if you seated the balance wrong when you screwed it down) also you should check the pallet action make sure it snaps back and forth before putting in the balance issue could lie there too. Also pallet and or Impulse jewel could have gotten loose during cleaning, esp if you used IPA for long periods.

Snk.....skx...... Whateva! Lol... Honestly, I'm happy when I can remember my own name!

My friend that is the SKX :) a few reasons why I would not buy the SKX but I know it was one of their most popular watches of all time. It's too expensive for the lack of features, I feel it deserves a better movement, a job for later. Here's the SNK I'm considering for her I'm going to be honest with you even if I don't get her an amphibia I'll probably get one for myself from this website, so it's a win either way. I mean hell, maybe she wants two watches

Hi Adam If you search on the site in "watch repair tools and equipment there is all the details I posted in Oct 4th 2019. and google "dialfoot soldering machines" i t will give you lots of the Including the original Wesley R Door drawings. cheers

Hi As a starter do what Nucejo suggested and fit a shim under the balance cock. For example a dial washer or aluminium foil just to increase the endshake on the balance staff. What appears to be the problem is lack of endshake.

Hi Adam http://www.dirkfassbender.de/dial-feet-soldering-machine.html Information found on this link is what I based my machine on only that it uses a separate power supply ( a car battery charger) as it has an over current detect and cut off all other details are virtualy the same. I will get the other information for you soon..

I think Moebius starting putting expiration dates about 15 years ago, before that there were none. It's been discussed quite a bit, and from what I gather it is really zero issue to use expired oil. I think mainly it is because bottles get opened dozens of times to refill oil cups and this leads to contamination and oxidation of the oil; sealed and or infrequently messed with it's good for ages. I have some Kluber P125 here and it doesn't have a date, in fact it isn't even marked Kluber, just a Horotec number. I think they buy it and repackage it. I don't think it "expires"; I use Kluber greases on other things and never saw any literature about it expiring, just about its working life in use.

Hi Adam The offer still stands, If you PM me your address I will dig out the plans for you and post them down. I will see if I can get them onto the site as well. cheers

Another 1972 Viscount. I particularly like the hands on this. Shame the crown and stem is missing, but I guess if it wasn't then the thing would have gone for a lot more.

Picked up this Timex Electric and Cimier off the Bay. Both look like the will clean up well but working condition is unknown. Also picked up this Gotham to play with

Hi Have you tried the likes of Jules Borel, Esslingers, Timesavers in the USA or Cousins UK , Perrins in Canada all material houses. Cheers

I'm no furniture maker, but I think this will work. First milestone complete. Next is the back and sides, then the working surface. I'll then bring it in and make the other case of drawers at a less hurried pace.

Long silence but I’ve finally gone and picked up a couple of jewels and replaced both brass bushings with the appropriately sized jewels. I may have a little bit of end shake adjustments to make but this has certainly helped the situation. Tweaking and testing now - hopefully this will solve the issue for good. Thanks for all of the help and advice! You’ve helped me level up my watch making skill set. Oh, with the added jewels, should I scratch out the “17-jewels” engraving and scratch in “19”?

Having watched ML's strip down and rebuild of the Seiko Bellmatic I was intrigued so much so that I just had to get one. Well I won one on Ebay for £103 plus postage. The description infers its not keeping time but it looks in reasonable condition in the pictures. It does have a strap. Soon as I get it I will post photos.

I know that Mark used the good old D5 in few videos but being it natural base it has been largely surpassed by synthetic like HP-1300 under all aspects. The only reason you will find it referenced in old service sheets is because.. they are old.

No the movement is almost new !