Jump to content

handwound

Member
  • Content Count

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About handwound

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I wanted to keep costs as low as possible, but I want to replace it in the next time maybe it will boost up the amplitude a bit
  2. yes I did, but maybe the train had more momentum so it could overcome this small piece of whatever
  3. Hey guys I just wanted to share with you my first project, an Omega Genève with the calibre 565. I saw it on Chrono24 for really cheap. It was sold as not working, but for the price I just couldn't say no to it and immediately bought it. When the watch arrived some days later, I opened the caseback to see if there is something obviously wrong with the movement what causes it to not run. A screw fell out and I noticed that it should keep the one missing caseclamp in place. I suspected that the clamp has made it's way into the train of wheels what causes the watch to stop. And indeed: a slight shake and it fell out and the watch started ticking, it wasn't running great at all but at least a sign of life so I hoped a service would recover it. Movement before service The movement was quite nasty, everything covered in small pieces of dirt and old oil. Stripping the movement down went quite smooth and I took photos of some parts to remember their location. I cleaned it in an ultrasonic cleaner with Elma Red and then rinsed it in distilled water and isopropanol. After all parts were dried I started to inspect them and I thought that they would all be fine, but that assumption turned out to be wrong later. All parts cleaned and dried (with expeption of the automatic assambly) When the movement was assambled again I was really happy to see it ticking again, but the joy only lasted for a short time, because it stopped after about a minute. I first inspected the balance again but it was moving freely so I assumed that the problem would be in the train of wheels, because the watch was running nice at first. When I checked the third wheel I noticed a small black dot between to teeth, barely visible even under magnification. I cleaned this spot and also all other wheels again and pegged out the pivot holes. After reassembly it was now running nicely. On the timegrapher the watch is running with around 240° in dial up and down position and around 220° in hanging positions. Beat error as well as positional error a quite low. I know that these results are far from perfect, but it's my first project and if I consider the condition it was in before I'm quite happy with the result The lession I've learned from this: spend more time on inspecting the parts, as it can save you a lot of time and nerves later I found a new original Omega Crystal for this case reference, now I just need to wait for it to arrive and it will be a nice watch again. I hope you enjoyed this short report and I wish you all a nice weekend
  4. Today I received this beautiful Omega Genève from 1968 with blue dial. Iit was sold as not running, but with the optical condition and the ridiculously low price I just couldn't say no When I opened it a screw fell right out the movement. I noticed that it should hold one of the caseclamps in place, which was missing. I guessed that the caseclamp made its way into the train of wheels, causing the watch to stop. So I carefully shaked the watch and volià, the clamp fell out and the movement began to run. I resecured the clamp with the screw. The movement looks really dirty though, so it will definitly benefit from a service. The results on the timegrapher confirmed that, so there is still work to do I also fittet an original Omega buckle to the strap.
  5. thanks for the welcoming I will train on cheaper pieces first, I will start with a Unitas 6498 / Seagull St 3620 and maybe go over to an ETA 2824.2 / Seagull TY 2130 to get experience with automatics.
  6. I can't explain in detail how a timegrapher works, but I guess with the "degree as an input" you mean the lift angle. It is the angle in which the impulse pin of the balance interacts with the crown of the pallet fork. This angle is needed to correctly calculate the amplitude of your watch. This is the formula: (3600 x lift angle) : (time between the first and the third noise in seconds x π x beats per hour) Here you can find a list with movements and their lift angles: https://www.lepsi.ch/lift-angle/
  7. Thanks a lot it will come in handy when I need to order new parts. It seems the rotor left some marks on the plates, so it will probably need a new rotor axle at least, I will see
  8. Hello WRT I'm from Germany, collecting watches for about two years now and I'm just getting into watch repair with the watch repair course. In the next couple of weeks I'm going to have a lot of spare time, so perfect to start the course. Currently I'm making plans for my workspace so I can start as soon as my tools and the movement for practicing arrive. I also just bought an Omega Geneve with the 565 movement which was an absolut bargain. From the outside it is in nice condition, but it doesn't run, so this will be a good incentive to practice and learn as much as possible from the course, so I can bring it to it's former glory in the future.
×
×
  • Create New...