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Here is a video I made on the disassembly of a Eagle Star Geneve SQUALE Diver watch. My wife bought this in the mid 70ies ($500 bucks) for diving and she had been waiting a long time for me to service it. It was used by female competitive deep divers in the 60ies to 80ies. It is a Swiss movement with the case made by an Italian company. Squale Company is now back in business. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Wonder if I should clean this new pocket watch. Got it for 75US and amplitude is ok I think. Video attached.https://vimeo.com/197470651 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hello all, appreciate being here and i hope i can learn what i consider to be both a mystifying and intriguing line of work. I'm 36 and i'm looking to start a new career from scratch as a a repairs/horology professional and hoping to meet like minded people here. I watched Mark's vids on youtube which i really enjoy as he is such a gent and really professional.

I recently acquired this really nice Bulova Jet Clipper.... As I said , It was nice but needed a little TLC . It was advertised as running good , just cleaned and serviced . Also It came on a period Spiedel watchband and had a decent crystal . Unfortunately it would only run for a bit , and needed an inspection and service . It's a front loader , so after pulling off the crown and the top of the 2 piece stem , and the crystal , I got a better look at what I had . The dial is a beautiful scallop sea shell design that has a soft pearlesent sheen,...subtle on the pearlesent . The lume on the hands was starting to fall off , and all three hands had signs of rust present . The movement had some dirty lube in the stem area but the rest of the movement was in top shape . I proceeded to clean and service the movement and was pleased to see good results on my timegrapher . I removed the lume and the rust from the hands , cleaned and polished them , and relumed the hour and minute hand . I also sanded and polished the crystal , but it didn't take much to make it look like new . I like the little spade arrow on the short side of the second hand . I found a decent beads of rice bracelet in my stash and the watch was looking and running good . As good as it was looking to me , I wanted to up the ante . In my searches I had come across a vintage Spiedel Calendar watchband called Romunda by Spiedel . It is stainless steel and has leather looking links . The calendar has 7 faces that moves the 1st from Sunday to Saturday by rolling the calendar backwards or forward with 2 setting wheels . The calendar cost $10.95 when it was first introduced ,...I paid $25.00 ,....but had to have it for this watch . The lug width on the watch is 18mm , and the watchband is 19mm , so I had to do some body and fender work to make it fit . Also the band was too loose on my wrist so I had to remove 2 sets of links to fit me . That was fun . All in all , I am very pleased with the total look of the watch and band . I think it looks pretty darned spiffy . Like something from "Mad Men " .

My name is Shirley. I have been fascinated by watch repair since the sixties. My father was a watch repairman for over fifty years in San Antonio, Texas, USA. He was a railroad watch inspector for Southern Pacific Railroad back when they used to have their watches inspected. That was before quartz watches. He worked on a lot of Hamilton, Illinois and Elgin pocket watches. When Bulova Accutrons came out, he worked on a ton of those. In fact, he wore a Railroad Accutron for many years. For a decade or so, he did watch repair by day (in my uncle's jewelry shop) and worked on the railroad at night. Eventually, he retired from the railroad and bought the jewelry store from my uncle and did watch repair full time. When he got older he developed Parkinson's and his hands became too shaky to repair watches. I bought his tools and thought I might try my hand at it, but it wasn't as easy as my father had made it look. I decided to take a watch repair course, but didn't get very far before my father became too ill and I had to quit and move back home to help take care of him. In the course, I had learned just enough to strip me of any false confidence I may have had. I can take a basic watch apart and put it back together... I don't promise I could repair it. But I'm dragging the tools and a few old watches out and trying my hand at it again. Mark's videos have given me back the confidence to try. I really look forward to interacting with any fellow watch repair friends here. I hope not only to learn a bit, but maybe share a bit of what I learn also. I will definitely take photos...

391, 392 and 394 all use the same part

This is the first time I have read this post. I would like to congratulate Scott and all who have offered assistance, especially Ry. I look forward to the end result You have gone one better than me Scott, a chronograph was my second watch refurbishment, well done sir!

Chris, I don,t know what level your at or how fast you would like to change career, but before you start spending hard earned on this, get a few non running scrappers from fleabay, some basic tools & see how & if you can get them up & running again. There is plenty of help here & it doesn't cost anything. In other words try before you buy.

I've posted this one before, but I wear so seldom I figured it wouldn't be too déclassé to show it again. This one is a constellation 504 in stainless steel case with gold arrowhead markers on a pie-pan face. I am also including a picture of the movement. A Happy New Year to all. J 20161230_155207 (1).jp2

£100 to restore a dial I wish , I sent one up to V Soni in London , so they could have a proper look at it and give me an estimate ,£280. Needless to say I didn't get it done

Nice one? Squale nowadays it's not the same as it use to be?

I share your pain, I was stuck this summer with this problem for a 90's Head Titanium, a very rare bird that I really like, don't try to find one I never found any specs or who made it. The band was just a bit small, I spent days looking online for something compatible, never found anything. Then I discovered buckle extenders, it worked for me. There are 2 types for Stainless Steel: fixed and spring loaded versions: http://www.esslinger.com/watch-band-part-stepped-buckle-extenders/ http://www.esslinger.com/watch-band-part-spring-loaded-buckle-extenders/ http://blog.esslinger.com/how-to-install-a-spring-loaded-buckle-extender/?_ga=1.264276491.588626422.1465156968 I went with the spring loaded, best decision I ever made, very easy to install. Hope this helps

Very nice watch. 75US absolute bargain. Amplitude 270 excellent. That's normal for a movement in very sound condition. I suspect you have a broken mainspring. They normally hook to the inside of the barrel wall. They have a tendency to break about an inch or so from the hook. When the spring is under tension it will slip. Replacement springs are readily available. The watch from the photos looks about a size 16. If you haven't a mainspring winder, they are easily wound in by hand. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Might be of some help. I have had a look in my "Bestfit catalog" & the 394 is also compatible with the 392.

Have you had a close look at the hairspring while beating under a 10 or 12x loupe?

This is the reason why I bought a timing machine visually it's sometimes hard to tell what the amplitude is. Video is partially misleading in that it makes the balance look like it's rotating too slow. So after studying the video I think it's about 275°. So you can stop the video manually slide the toolbar watch how far the balance swings in each direction and do a screen capture images below. So the arm goes barely under the bridge visually it sticks out a little bit. Then it goes around the other direction by quite a bit. Then I've attached an image showing what various balance amplitudes look like.

That seems to me to be a low amplitude - about 120 degrees. What you are saying 3/4 360 is actualy two times the amplitude. You calculate the amplitude one time for every direction you twist the pallet fork. An amplitude is calculated from the impulse jewel inside the pallet fork (in the rest/middle position) to it stopping very close to the outside of the pallet for (if it would touch it, there would be Banking).

Unfortunately the case is probably worth more than the watch. Hence thats why you will find lots of pocket watch movements on eBay without their cases. It,s a real shame but thats how the market is.

I personally have not got any problems with fakes/copies providing they are sold as such. It's when they are sold as genuine that is the real issue for me. As far as repairing I avoid and refuse to touch them. What worries me is after the repair and it is then sold as genuine am I then party to the fraud ?

Looks like about 3/4 of 360 deg amplitude. 270deg amplitude. Watch the video. Might get a few more degrees if I clean it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I like these BW Raymonds, couple of extra jewels and some nice damask on plates and wheels, unique regulator, big bold numbers, probably RR approved, case is well worn, shows a lot of use/love. Don't know if amplitude warrants overhaul, just my ignorance, please excuse.

Hello Yorkie, I would suggest you get the Complete price guide to Watches by Cooksey Shugart as it is the nearest you will get to what you are asking for. It contains a load more than just prices including pics of movements and parts for recognition, I get a new one every couple of years. It has of course not got every make of watch documented but it is a thick book with loads of info. Tracing on the forums for specifics will give you a good chance of a result as much has been documented. Cheers, Vic

do you have any lotto numbers you'd like to share!

okay I'll give you that one

Hello Francisco, Can I suggest you get a book called Practical Watch Repairing by Donald de Carle and perhaps Watch Repair for Beginners by Harold C Kelly. They are old but still quite relevant and a lot of us have these as reference books. Of course traces on the forums on specifics are very likely to bring results as well and if you get in a fix help is freely given, Cheers Vic

In an effort to combat fakes, more than a few years back Rolex started putting engraved "Rolex" inside the dial, around the rim above the dial, one quick way to tell... even then the fakers quickly came up with that same look. Dials, hands, crystals and even weight are a quick way to tell, if it doesn't look or feel right, probably isn't, also Rolex has their own brand/blend of stainless steel,(not like 316L) I read somewhere, that won't discolor when polished, usually the stem will break on copies if unscrewed or the date wheel will break, not worth much effort for parts, IMHO. Agreed, there are better fakes, Complete turd!

That's exactly what I've done, managed to find an exact same model, fully refurbished by Sony, just camera and case, I have all the other accessories, so all good, and a bargain too, £85

My eyes! Its a canal street $30 fake.

Seriously, I'd just throw it in the bin!

Technical data for this calibre https://watchguy.co.uk/technical/Oris/1875_Oris 391, 392, 394.pdf suggest this part should fit the 394 calibre Setting Lever Spring ( 445 ), Oris 391 Wayne

Hmm lets see, well there's just nothing right about it what so ever, it's a complete turd. Bezel from a GMT incorrect, date window magnification way off, hour markers wrong, dial wrong, I think your having a laugh

Gents, I would like to share the new series of videos I am making, while I service a Seiko 5 7009-3130 automatic watch I just received. This is Part 1, I am uploading the other p2 parts of the tear down and will link them here soon. Please enjoy!