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digginstony last won the day on April 4 2018

digginstony had the most liked content!


About digginstony

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    Super WRT Addict
  • Birthday 11/25/1959

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  1. That's so unfair to start quoting my post after I've left the thread. I never suggested springs can magically shorten themselves. Just like I never said timing devices tell lies. I don't understand why I'm suddenly being sniped at on this forum. What I suggested the movement may of been over oiled during service and was struggling. Run the watch for 24 hrs in the hope things may improve and the first reading prior to service may or may not be the more accurate. Now to reiterate I've left the thread. Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  2. Firstly I didn't say the machine is lying. I said don't trust the readings without an amplitude. Second. I didn't know if the watch had been demagetised. Prior to any readings. Third I didn't understand why everyone assumed the watch was running fast and not slow, without confirmation from the OP. And lastly I never heard lengthening or shortening a hairspring called (Mutilation!). But anyway. I apologise for any confusion and will leave this thread. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  3. I should of continued but didn't have time. If you can't find anything apparent. Often a fix would be, if there's any tail left on the hairspring. Would be to lengthen and re-stud. Lengthening and shortening on old pocket watches, can at times, be the only viable solution. The micro adjuster is not very efficient. I think the modern Seiko has about a 9 minute variation but I've never tried it. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  4. So your software indicates + and - (would be a complete load of rubbish if it didn't) . Old movements on wind up that don't start up on their own, require a bit of a shake, this isn't really of any practical concern and can be good time keepers. You say the movement was already a fast runner. When you re-fitted the balance to the cock:- did the hairspring want to fit naturally to the regulator pins or did it require manipulation. This can often be a sign that the hairspring has been "Messed about with" and in your movements case, shortened as a result a breakage. Or by some idiot, as a cure for slow running. Just another thing to consider, as well as all the above. Alterations of hairsprings really is a specialist job and requires lots of practice. Enjoy your Timegrapher when it arrives. They are good fun. Personally I find the trace lines more useful than specific figures stated, particularly on the cheaper variety. They are a very useful aid. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  5. Wasn't aware I was suggesting chasing ghosts. Looking at the known readings I can't see reference to + or - 75 or 612 respectively. Considering it's an old movement, minus 75 initially then moving to minus 612 after servicing would make more sense to me. Most old movements, neglected, dirty, with no lubrication, usually run very slow but normally don't even run. Applying too much oil can make a slow movement run even worse. Does the app used give a + or - ? ? If it is fact running + then a slightly spiral hairspring or a touching hairspring may well be the cause. But once again with readings as shown I personally wouldn't do anything without a practical test run of the watch. Ok it might be a bit obsessive but I demagetise before, during and after servicing. It's never my intention to de-rail a thread ? Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  6. The OP states he's a Newbie but this reference is to the forum and also has successfully serviced other movements. So he's not a complete novice. I think a practical observation of the watches behaviour over 24 hours would be prudent. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  7. I don't think anyone is blaming a particular type of machine or application but that other factors can influence the readings given Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  8. Exactly and I personally would be monitoring the watches behaviour prior to taking further action. Also am I missing something ? Is the Ops watch running + or - the figures given. Even without a trained eye, I doubt the balance would oscillate with the figures given and the OP could form a valid opinion, probably. I remember once servicing a pocket watch with quite a healthy balance rotation and after my over oiling, the performance was very poor. It did recover from my abuse. I've since learnt one drop of oil can service many movements. As a hobbiest I also have the luxury of running a watch after servicing for several days and allowing the watch to settle, prior to any assessment on my timegrapher. Also I constantly demagetise as I believe this can give a whole range of false readings other than running fast. All said, it's probably a hairspring issue but I'm learning not to make assumptions. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  9. I should of used the wording "Talented Hoppyist" I used the definitions as One who receives an income as part of a full time occupation and one who doesn't. My apologies to any offence my wording may of caused anyone. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  10. It's not inconceivable for a movement to become magnetized during service. The OP clearly states, visually the movement is running smoothly. With the stated beat error, if accurate, it's unlikely the watch would even run ? Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  11. Personally I would dismiss those readings. I enquired about the trace lines to determine if indicate a beat error or if they have become scattered. If so has the movement been fully demagetised. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  12. Without an amplitude reading, you can't really trust what the timegrapher is saying. Have you still got two trace lines going across the screen and are they close together. If so it may be that you've been too enthusiastic with the oil. Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  13. Often someone has a problem with a watch and after searching the internet, are fortunate to come across this forum. And after a reply are never heard of again and no feedback given as to the outcome. Then we have the individual, after the purchase of a hammer and chisel, usually of Chinese manufacture, believe they can undertake repairs and servicing. The general rule of thumb to be competent, would of had served under an experienced watchmaker for 6 years and then had a further 9 years practical experience, to be "Competent " There are professional people on the forum prepared to help and also talented amateurs. Then you have tinkerers such as myself, who have some successes and also failures but not before a lot of heartache. To try and help you, the guys on the forum will need to know specifically what you've done and where. Also lots of close up pictures of the movement. In the absence of this, the best advice I can give is to locate a reputable watch repairer. Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  14. Apologies. On the latter method as mentioned I should of said ream out not broach, that's a bit misleading. Also advisable to use a Reamer when setting a new Bushing, rather than a drill bit. The chances of misalignment are greatly reduced. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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