Hi Fellow People,
Im reaching out as I’m currently learning all I can about watchmaking, and am working through the BHI distance learning technicians course, with my exam booked for May.
I will need to service a quartz watch as part of my practical exam, and am learning about watch lubrication.
A few months ago I found a great article that covered the technique for dipping and collecting the right amount of oil on the oiler, such as the speed and angle of the dip, however, I now can’t find it anywhere, no matter how much I search the internet
Does anyone have or can point me in the right direction of instructions specifically on oil collection on the oiler? As you will know there is lots on the actual oiling process but not the oil collection process.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm a total newbie to servicing my pocket watch collection. I'm about to first clean and oil a practice movement, then eventually do my vintage railroad grade watches. I don't have a machine...yet, so I'll be doing things by hand. I'm hoping to draw on all of your experience. How long do I soak the parts in the Zenith cleaning solution? Then, how long in the Zenith rinse? Are there any parts that should NOT go into the cleaning solution at all? Then, what parts should NOT be oiled?
This is a 2 part series from Oklahoma State University of Watchmaking on the correct use of Oilers.
Oiling a movement correctly is one of the most important skills you need to master, and these videos give some excellent advice.
Ok, I think I will open a can of worms, but here goes:
How do you oil the pallet jewels?
I know there are several ways to do it. I would be very thankful if some reasoning or pros/cons would be presented. And also, how could one check if they are properly oiled. I think the correct oiling of the pallet jewels is one of the critical things in watch servicing.
p.s. I saw Mark's way... don't think it's the only one. I also expect him to have something to say in this topic :) if he finds the time
I'm a beginner. I've finally competed my Seiko 6119A in a Seiko 5. I now notice that the second hand tube is quite long. It's not sliding down the shaft with moderate pressure. How had should I push? Is there a trick to this?
I have some problem with my seiko 7015 speedtimer that i bought 2 days ago..
This seiko runs smoothly when chronograph off
And when the chronograph is active,the watch runs for awhile and then stop..
Whats wrong with it and maybe you guys can help me with some solution please!!
thank you for the detailed reply. I tried a 329 today and unfortunately did not work. As you explained before it looks like the rotor is ocillating back and forth (the second hand moves forward and backwards).
Its heartbreaking to see as i was hoping to fix it and give back to my grandfather.
is there anyway i can source the part or an alternative movement (does not have to be Omega) that will fit the dial and casing?Although not ideal as takes away from the integrity and beauty of the watch but would love to able to get it working one way or the other so my grandfather can wear it on the wrist again.
any help would be much appreciated
A little bit of a fun watch for today's Watch of Today.
Another Swatch rescued from the junk pile. This one had a couple of obvious issues.
The leather band was filthy, heavily kinked, and stiff as a board. So much so that had to be scrubbed with detergent, dried, and some leather restoration work carried out.
The watch itself however, as well as the usual heavily scratched crystal had an electro-machanical issue. When I popped in a brand new battery, the second hand would move for a bit, then falter.
This turned out to be a combination of slight corrosion on the spring contact for the battery, and the fact that someone had previously run the watch with a tiny button cell, wedged in place with some scrunched up paper, which had bent the sprung battery contact. A little very careful re-bending and off it went like a champ.
This illustrates the point nicely, that even a little extra resistance in the battery contacts can be enough to stop a quartz movement, or make it behave erratically.
The band took a little more effort. Once dried, following its bath, it became obvious that the original uniform kid leather look was long gone, so I went for a more vintage finish, with a little blending of the very worn patches using the leather dye in some dark tan shoe polish, combined with some lighter "Clarks Shoes" branded leather restoration cream.
I only needed a hint of the dark tan, since I didn't want to end up with a brown shoes effect, simply to shine up the worn patches, and blend them with the existing colour.
Several thin coats of leather cream mixed with a little dark tan, and much buffing later and the strap is back to its original soft calfskin feel, rather than dry as a stick. All of the holes are the same size again.
The band forms a gentle curve, rather than being corrugated, and the stitching is clean. The band looks ten times better than when it arrived. This is yet another member of the "404 Club", since it was effectively free with a bunch of other junk, I picked up which was purchased because it included a mechanical watch that I have yet to restore, all for under the magic £4.04