I was thinking about using Fixodrop but have a hard time figuring out what parts to use it on. The fewer the better considering the abhorrent price for it. What I got so far.
* Pallet jewels
* Escape wheel
* Reversing wheel on automatic
* Balance End stones
What is your opinion on this ? Should the end stones be treated, and if so, does that include the chaton ?
I've been using Moebius 9415 to oil the pallet stone. I usually oils the exit pallet impulse face with the amount like you drop a little bubble on it.
I really don't know how much amount I should applied and is there any sign to tell whether I'm overoil or underoil.
I have one strange case though, the movement right after assembly has 260~270 amplitude but drop to 230 after 10 minus or so. Is this relevent to the pallet stone oiling?
Hi Fellow People,
Im reaching out as I’m currently learning all I can about watchmaking, and am working through the BHI distance learning technicians course, with my exam booked for May.
I will need to service a quartz watch as part of my practical exam, and am learning about watch lubrication.
A few months ago I found a great article that covered the technique for dipping and collecting the right amount of oil on the oiler, such as the speed and angle of the dip, however, I now can’t find it anywhere, no matter how much I search the internet
Does anyone have or can point me in the right direction of instructions specifically on oil collection on the oiler? As you will know there is lots on the actual oiling process but not the oil collection process.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
These jewels are from my very first ETA movement that I'm servicing (cal. 1080), and none of the movements I've been working on so far (Vostoks, Poljots, and a Unitas 6498) has had jewels like these. My question is simply how to oil them? They do look a lot like cap jewels and maybe that's what they are called? If I were to guess I would say that they should be oiled the same way that spring cap jewels are oiled, but I'd really like to know for sure. And, while I'm at it, what's the purpose of these non-springed "cap jewels"? I've also seen them in pictures of some really old movements having a balance without a shock spring.
The movement comes from my grandfather's (born 1910) Ernest Borel Incastar which we believe he bought sometime in the early 1960-ties. It's a family heirloom, and I've been waiting to service it until having worked up some confidence. I had no idea it harboured an ETA movement so that was a pleasant and rather exciting surprise. As far as I know, it has never been serviced.
As can be seen in the above picture it has a really interesting regulator mechanism, and I actually found this ad for it on eBay. Setting the rate I would assume is just a matter of rotating that five-pointed "star", but I wonder if that entire arm can be slid to regulate the beat error?
Hello. I am a reckless novice in the field of watchmaking and I always risk breaking parts when I work on watches.
Of the parts, I often get confused about how to put back the mainspring in the barrel.
Most of times, I make mistake by winding it back in to the barrel in wrong direction and mainspring gets curved the other way. (I do this by hand since I have no mainspring winder)
Is there a tip on how to get started in correct direction??
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Eventually I'll do some experimenting with this and see where it leads. Of course, I would assume that the traditional method using an alcohol lamp is the quickest and most convenient method. Anyway, what I'll will do first (for my own peace of mind) will be to make sure shellac hardens (that the IPA evaporates) after having been softened by IPA.
Elma red is a very good cleaner and makes parts shine, but if there is any hint of tarnish of the nickel plated main plate or bridges it can clean the tarnished sections right down to the bronze layer, in as little as 5 min in Ultrasound... the untarnished parts will really sparkle though.