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Everything posted by JBerry

  1. Definitely better practice to use a basket yes, especially if you're using metal. The rubber jars I have have a very light seal, and in the process of sonicating usually vent a little bit.
  2. You're right, I should contact them regarding the residue. I tried a few different approaches with no luck. I have had the S10 about two years now. It's been great, horrible on the ears but all ultrasonics are. I'm an analytical chemist and have used lots and lots of different Elmas and never had any problem with them, which is the big reason I splashed out on it. I think for the time scales of heating here there is no real need to get the H. The pallet fork and balance assembly I just give the two rinses in distilled water following the 1:9, and a quick 10 second dip in the IPA. It seems to work well cleaning oiled up balance springs. I make sure to blow dry the parts so the IPA isn't sitting on the shellac. I don't use a basket, but two glass jars with rubber sealed lids, and within these I have the parts either loose (like the plates) or in small mesh baskets
  3. Bit neater than usual. The superglue and file were not used on watches! I promis
  4. Hey, bit late to the party but I use the Elma 1:9 too. I have spent a lot of time trialing different strategies for cleaning parts. The best I have come up with is Elma 1:9 in an ultrasonic at about 40C for 4 minutes, then rinsing the parts basket in distilled water at 40-50C twice, the second time in the ultrasonic. For some but not all parts I use pure Isopropyl alcohol as a final rinse. I have a gallon of the Suprol rinse here doing nothing but posing a fire hazard. Because I hate the smell of it and also, no matter what I tried it would leave some residue on the parts after drying. I have an Elma S10, non heated ultrasonic cleaner, it works very well. I just run my tap to get the water temperature right, and considering the short cleaning times the water doesn't cool down much.
  5. Nice job! What did you end up using to remove the rust?
  6. Welcome to the forum! I'm from Co.Mayo
  7. This case looks familiar... with some Seiko's of this era the crystal is kind of like a tension ring crystal with the tension ring removed, and the space in which the tension ring would fit in the crystal, fits onto a lip on the case. The bezel is then a tight fit around the crystal, which creates a better seal. Hope this description makes sense... But if it is of this type, popping off the bezel may make cleaning up this mess a whole lot easier.
  8. Tissot 27B-621? Though if so yours seems to lack the wheel to drive the central seconds arbor. Does your second hand work? http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Tissot_27_2621
  9. AS ST Seems to stand for AS Standard, if this is your movement: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&AS_1950, Then Lepsi lists the lift angle at 52
  10. I've used Internationaldialco in Ohio, USA. You will hear a lot of people speak highly of them, but they have gone through a change of ownership in the last year or so, and I've heard mixed reviews since. I got this Zenith dial refinished just after Christmas, I think they did an OK but not amazing job, the lacquer had was a bit blotchy, kind of like it reacted with the surface, and some of the printing is a bit blotchy under a loupe. Judge for yourself with the before and after pics
  11. Welcome to the forum! I'm from Co.Mayo but living in Denmark
  12. I used a very fine knife to cut out for the buckle attachment... But a punch would be a better job, all depends on the kind of buckle you use. Dusty from sanding, cutting, shaving and burnishing. Little flecks of leather get everywhere.
  13. I used to make some leather straps too. But it's dusty work, and I don't have a second workspace for it, so I've pretty much stopped doing it.
  14. Increasing industrialization (resulting in increasing emissions) has allowed much more productive agriculture, which has allowed us to support ever growing populations
  15. Shellac also secures the roller/impulse jewel to the roller table on the balance assembly. Zippo lighter fluid/Naptha is commonly used and won't dissolve Shellac
  16. So sorry to hear it OH, sorry for your loss
  17. I really like this book too, it covers a lot of ground and is very well written. I visited the horological society of New York last year and they have Henry's old bench and some of his tools in their office! They also gave me this book while I was there.
  18. Very cool, is there an equivalent Seiko caliber to this? At first I thought it was a 66B
  19. Nice idea, seems a bit fiddly to keep the pins parallel to each other though
  20. I Googled "Timex Easy Reader watch glow" out of interest, and that dark spot seems to be characteristic to the watch!
  21. Here's an excerpt from The Watch Repairer's Manual by Henry B. Fried. He uses a round bottom punch
  22. Welcome to the forum! I'm from Ireland but living in Copenhagen
  23. Thanks very much for the offer! I did get a quote from Dumet, which was reasonable, but the used bench worked out a lot cheaper.
  24. Do you have a jeweling tool to adjust the height of the jewel? I would think it should be flush with the mainplate
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