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Here it is, looks like a boot.

A lifetime of interest but now that I have the time I find that my eyes, hands, coordination etc have gone. I have spent a good few hours reading through the threads and I am in awe of some of the things you guys achieve! I'm quite happy just spectating and who knows I may be able to help someone along the way. Thanks for accepting me.

When working with small metal parts, (not necessarily watch parts, but this applies with those too), I will superglue the part to something I can easily hold, for example plastic card stock, or some other metal, then file away, drill, etc. then dissolve the superglue in acetone to remove the part.

I've just bought a small amount of the Horotec Episurf-Neo, which is advertised as a 'next gen' epilame treatment. Directions for use say 30 second dip, 60 second dry at air temperature. So no heat required. I too am looking for a cheap DIY alternative to the special dip bottle. I've been experimenting with the little filter baskets from the water inlets on washing machines! Haven't found the perfect solution yet, but I'm working on it!

Horosolv looks to be the same as One Dip, which is what I have. Both are a modified carbon tetrachloride. I think it should be ok. I've soaked balance completes in it and haven't had any problems. Don't soak in any alcohol because that will dissolve the shellac. I also use Zenith hairspring cleaner which doesn't leave a residue like One Dip. https://timesavers.com/i-22336011-zenith-hair-spring-cleaner.html

I don't think grease will help, pay attention to what Ancyclient wrote above, the die must press on the perimeter only. You have a lathe so no problem for you to make a better die if needed.

316L is the standard stainless for watch cases. Around 3-4 degrees for the angles, you don't want a sharp lip though, there will be a cylindrical land. Fitting is of course a bit of trial and error so a good fixture that allows removing and replacing on the lathe without introducing eccentricity is a must

A circa 1988 Raketa 24 hour dual time zone wind up. At one point I had located a model number, but I'll be darned if I can find it now...

The link in my previous post doesn't seem to be clickable!? Anyway, here it is: https://www.watchprosite.com/page-wf.forumpost/pzt-/wf.responses_bLoB_s-/fi-17/pi-2594576/ti-432276/s-0/

A quote from a book I have here: “modern lighter fuel is contaminated with a small amount of oil, making lighter fuel a very poor degreaser. Very small particles of oil will be left on any part that you try and clean when using this substance.”

Welcome and enjoy the forum. Giving new life to vintage watches can be very satisfying. Enjoy.

3 1/2 yrs old posting, we never heard from the OP anymore.

Hi and Welcome to WRT forum. Regards

,hi and welcome to the happy factory

Given the price of Fixodrop, this link may be of interest. http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=msg&th=1284125&rid=0

Hi Marshall An interesting scenario I personally do it by hand with watches and use a home made device for clocks. Never had a problem hand winding as long as your hands are clean. With the watches as you have found out there seems to be specifics for particular brands but I have seen some generic ones on the bay in the UK. I think its a question of choice, how often you have the need and what is the most common one you use. its a matter of preference and associated cost.

Someone told me today that roman numerals are to be phased out! Not on my watch!

I too bought a small 10ml bottle some time ago. I do not use epilame a lot so like others I needed to conserve as best as possible. I eventually came to using an old package case from a balance complete purchase, a small round item with lid. This is big enough for the few items I have had to do. I fill it from the bottle, immerse the item for 5 mins, then allow the item to dry under a warm light bulb. The remaining epilame is then poured back in the bottle for next time. It says its very volatile but not so that it just vanishes as soon as you use it! I gather that for surfaces that need to retain oil then they should be run dry for a few minutes to remove the epilame from the working surface (which needs to retain lube) but leaves it on the non working surfaces which need to be lube free.

End stones limit friction to a rounded point bearing on a flat surface, as opposed to a shoulder bearing against the perimeter of a pivot hole.

Endstones bound the staff's axial play within proper limits.

Spring steel is available off ebay it comes in various size rolls and thicknesses, when I've made them in the past i have used the original as a template I cut the basic shape and size using a piercing saw from the stock then file to a neat finish any 90 degree angle bends can be put in by clamping in a jewellers vice heating and tapping into shape with a hammer, I drill holes using a sensitive bench drill but you can use a dremel, you would heat the steel to blue it. I have made both steel and brass springs for various clocks. Spring steel can be bent when heated to a cherry red and keep the shape you bend it into. You should be able to get a near match from Cousins the only ones that are impossible to find on fairly modern clocks are the circular ones used on Elliott clocks that loop round from the right to hold the click on the left, for some reason every supplier sells one's that are looped from the left.

Just noticed the seller has it as a private listing, so you can't tell if its actually 24 separate bids, or just the seller with 2 fake accounts he has used to bid on his own item to make it look like it is hotly contested so it might trick someone into thinking its worth bidding on as 24 other people already has. If no-one wins he just cancels the sale and hasn't lost anything

Yes please