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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    oldhippy

    Something to lighten the day.

    Four Catholic men and a Catholic woman were having coffee. The first Catholic man tells his friends, "My son is a priest, when he walks into a room, everyone calls him 'Father'." The second Catholic man chirps, "My son is a Bishop. When he walks into a room people call him 'Your Grace'." The third Catholic gent says, "My son is a Cardinal. When he enters a room everyone says 'Your Eminence'." The fourth Catholic man then says, "My son is the Pope. When he walks into a room people call him 'Your Holiness'." Since the lone Catholic woman was sipping her coffee in silence, the four men give her a subtle, "Well....?" She proudly replies, "I have a daughter, slim, tall, 38D breast, 24" waist and 34" hips. When she walks into a room, people say, "Oh My God!"
  2. 7 points
    Deggsie

    A lovely little lusina

    My father recently asked if I would service his wrist watch which he bought from the NAAFI at RAF Akrtiri in Cyprus during his national service days. The watch came to me as ticking, but the oil on the keyless works had gummed up like tar, making it almost impossible to wind without fear of doing some damage. Anyway, here are a few before and after photos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 6 points
    Blue steel can't be cut with a jeweler's saw but can be filed. That used to be how they checked the repivoting exam for clocks back in the day- saw bites, fail, file doesn't bite, fail. The commercially available blue steel bars watch and clockmakers typically use is very hit or miss. The nomial size is often way off (not such a big problem), and the heat treatment can vary between too soft, uneven, or sometimes actually ok. I have some and use it for pins and such. For staffs, stems, pinions- anything from steel- I use oil hardening steel in its annealed state. The standard in Switzerland is Sandvik 20AP, probably not so easy to find in small quantities elsewhere. In the U.S. O1 would be the closest thing (and is a fine steel for watch parts). Parts get hardened and tempered after machining, with generally the last 0.01mm or removed in finishing for bearing surfaces. For a staff I cut everything right to size except the pivots which are a good 0.10mm oversized, and I leave the taper for the roller table straight and oversized. After heat treatment, holding on the now straight roller diameter the top pivot is brought to 0.01mm over final size, the surfaces polished, rivet formed. Flip around and do lower pivot, roller taper, polish. Finally finish pivots in jacot. Heat treatment is a little different than most books or schools teach. I use an iron tube welded to a long thin bar. These are actually CO2 or N2O cartridges from selzer or whipped cream bottles with the neck cut off (about the size of the first two digits of an index finger). This gets filled about 1/3 with fine wood charcoal powder, parts go in, filled the rest of the way. The whole thing is torch heated until glowing orange, then the contents dumped in oil. The parts fished out with a magnet, and they are a nice grey color and very clean. After cleaning off the oil they are blued in a pan of fine brass filings over an alcohol lamp. With the above method there is rarely any deformation of even long thin parts, and no pitting.
  4. 6 points
    JBerry

    Watch of Today

    Picked up this Sandoz Alarm watch, a bit big for my wrist, but it has a certain retro charm
  5. 5 points
    margolisd

    Pallet Stone Wear

    It was very erratic and hard to quantify. But I'd say around 10% of the beats were completely wrong. The replacement escape wheel and pallet fork arrived. Fitted today and wow, what a difference. I put the escape wheel under the microscope to compare it to the old one and yeah it was completely worn. Thanks everyone for the advice.
  6. 4 points
    quantieme

    Why does this barrel say do not open

    Still working and keeping good time.
  7. 4 points
    bjd1020

    Luminox Tritium Replacement.

    I purchased this Luminox off ebay for parts and repair for $30. The movement got wet. I purchased the replacement ETA 251471 for $39. That was the easy part. The tritium tubes were also burnt out. You can buy the tubes for about 8 bucks each off Amazon. You can also send it back to Luminox to have them replaced for an ungodly amount. I purchased this chinese tritium tube watch for $45. The tubes are exactky the same size. Perfect fit. The tubes are held in with a recess in the dial ring so theres no glue. It was super easy to replace them. Ill have about $100 bucks in it. Not bad for a fixer upper. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  8. 4 points
    mcaustin

    First project

    I just completed my first project - (nearly, as described below) full service of this Elgin Sportsman. I polished the crystal and cleaned a whole bunch of gunk out. It's mostly complete - I have a new main spring for it that justbarribed with the strap (I was waiting to pay shipping once). I've given it to my wife and she chose the strap herself. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
  9. 4 points
    Hello All, This is my first post so I thought I would show a little finishing technique I learnt a while back. It basically turns the ratchet or crown wheel into a matte/ frosted finish. It was popular back in the day with some high end companies and still looks good in my opinion. I'll run through how it's done and try answer your questions as best as possible. What you need: 1. glass plate 2. Micron paper in various grits. 20 and 12 will do. 3. Tetrabor 800 grit/ mesh 4. Ultrasonic or cleaning machine 5. rodico First thing first, you have to flatten your ratchet wheel. To do this I use some lapping paper on glass. I start on a 20 micron and rub the ratchet wheel with my finger in a figure 8 pattern or circular or however I feel. (we arent trying to achieve black polishing flatness) If you are worried you can set up a jig to hold the ratchet wheel. but I often find using your finger will suffice. Once happy, move onto a 12 or 9 micron and do the same. At this point it is imperative to clean the wheel so that you remove all the grit from the paper that may be stuck between the teeth. So chuck it in an ultrasonic or your cleaning machine. Next place some tetrabor onto your plate, no need to add oil or water. place wheel onto plate and start rubbing it in. Generally it doesn't take to long no longer than a min or so. Doesn't hurt to check the piece to see how the finish is developing. if you want to check you can dab it with rodico, very carefully to remove the tetrabor. Do NOT wipe with a tissue or anything, this finish scratches so easy its crazy!! you can always chuck it through the ultrasonic (carefully) to see how the pattern is going. Its the checking and chasing that one last scratch which takes up the most time. The slightest bit of dust or dirt on the glass plate will scratch the wheel. You can always blue the wheel after, it comes out with an interesting tone when blued with this finish. This technique is fairly hard and does take some time to get good at, because it's just so easy to scratch and because of this scratches stand out against the matte surface. I'll try answer questions as best as possible. I try and post interesting stuff on Instagram regularly at least 3 to 4 times a week. obr_horology is my account on insta. its just time consuming to post (slow at typing) I plan on doing a youtube video in the coming weeks to better explain it. I learnt this from Henrick Korpela. Check him out if you haven't heard of him. He also writes in the AWCI and gives away a lot of info. Thanks O
  10. 4 points
    Horological lubrication is quite a fascinating subject. Unlike some things in watch repair that haven’t really changed in the last hundred years horological lubrication seems to always be changing. As this particular discussion demonstrates lubrication of the pallet fork pivots sometimes they do sometimes they don’t. Then the choice of lubrication’s typical responses look at the tech sheet. But the various watch companies typically all have differing recommendations and those recommendations almost always have changed with time. Then there is the missing information such as surface treatment and other stuff. Or the assumption whoever’s reading a technical guide is a professional watchmaker that knows what they’re doing. Of course we all have our personal choices and thoughts on the subject which very likely could all be different. The original title of this discussion was lubrication of the pivots the pallet fork that generally is an easy subject in that it’s usually frowned upon at least by the Swiss. Oiling of the rest of the escapement can get quite interesting. This is where time is an interesting thing or when the technical sheets came into existence. For an example of this I pulled out a couple of older Swiss technical guides and the earlier one is recommending 9020 for the pallet stones. A couple years later they switch to 941. Then I don’t remember how many years before 9415 comes into existence but it will show up eventually. Then when it does its typically for the higher frequency watches as it stays in place better. But with time even on lower frequency of 18,000 BPH watches you’ll see either or recommendation. Currently everyone seems to going just to 9415. So did you think this was confusing at all? Did you wonder what I meant by missing information other than surface treatment? Omega’s an interesting company over the years they’ve had technical information separate from their normal technical guides. Working instruction number 40 is quite interesting for instance it’s on lubrication and I’ve attached the PDF to this message. I think you'll find starting on page 13 quite interesting.. CousinsUK.com Omega 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication.pdf
  11. 4 points
    Nucejoe

    Watch of Today

    Seiko chrono.
  12. 4 points
    Squiffything

    Dipping my toe in the cock waters?

    Oh and you might want to reconsider your title..... we could end up with fetish weirdos finding your post through dodgy search engines
  13. 4 points
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    I think I spent rather too much time getting this to work again. I still haven't dug up a suitable crown, but it is running, all of the corrosion is gone, and the crystal is not too shabby. I popped it on a period correct band. So what was so interesting about this little Timex you may ask? Well it turns out it is just as ancient as I am, since it was produced in 1964. It had pretty much everything wrong with it. Covered in interesting (and no doubt mildly toxic) blue and green corrosion. It had no crown (but the remains of a stem), wouldn't wind, wouldn't run, couldn't move the hands You name it.. However in between a few household chores including having to nip out and purchase and replace a Venetian blind who's plastic supporting beam decided to shatter in to a million pieces bringing the whole mess crashing down on to the window ledge (and destroying a glass vase of flowers in the process), this afternoon, I tore it down, cleaned it, replaced a few bits and eventually got it running nicely. I've included a picture of the new blind, just so you can admire my handy work. It still needs a little bit of cosmetic work, (though that hair at 8 o'clock is now gone I assure you), but given that its age, I think we can forgive that, unlike the original window blind, which was only produced in 2015. Somehow I doubt if the new blind will last any where near as long as the watch.
  14. 4 points
    Tmuir

    Barrel ID Measuring tool

    It's time to get back to working on my Fusee clock and finish the new barrel for it. Although I could manage without making this tool I decided it was worth making to ensure I get the endshake correct. I wanted to measure the distance between the bushes inside the clock barrel and obviously you cant use a vernier for that. That's where this tool comes in. Its a pretty simple tool. The threaded rod is a 6BA steel threaded rod I had lying around and I turned up 2 brass ends. The one on the left is only threaded for about 10mm and the rod is screwed and Loctited into it. The one on the right is threaded for the first 10mm and then just clearance drilled the rest of the way. I did this as my taps are not long enough to tap the whole length. The shoulders of the brass ends are 7.5mm diameter with the narrow parts 5.5mm diameter. The idea is this can be used on any barrel that the pivots are larger than 7.5mm. Before I get onto how to use it I will quickly show how I tap small threads like this. The picture below shows my lathe fitted with a drill chuck in the tail stock and held in the drill chuck is a steel rod that I drilled and reamed to give it a smooth bore. I then turned up the tap holder with the shank to the size its a nice smooth fit into the bore. The end of the tap holder is drilled to be a good fit on the tap shank size, knurled to give you some grip and then a grub screw hole is cross drilled and tapped and a grub screw fitted, so when you slide in the tap the grub screw is tightened up on one of the flats of the square on the end of the tap. The drill chuck and reamed tube hold the tap in line for tapping and as you screw the tap in by hand it slides in the tube so no stress is put onto the new threads being cut. You can obviously also use this in a drill press. A closer shot of two tap holders and the sleeve, they are each made for different size taps Measuring tool in use. The shoulder of the left side is sat against the shoulder of the bush inside the barrel and the other brass end is gently wound out until it is touching the shoulder of the other bush, then the 6BA nut is done up against it to stop it slipping, you then remove it from the barrel and use your verniers to measure the gap between the shoulders on the measuring tool. I can now ensure that my new barrel will have the same amount of endshake as the old barrel, yes I could of worked it out without making this tool, but its always fun making new tools.
  15. 3 points
    Colditz

    New Workshop/Studio

    Barracuda caught in Thailand March 2019 Island Kho Muk
  16. 3 points
    Johnnie

    Watch of Today

    Omega Speedmaster 1964, my favourite watch !
  17. 3 points
    StuartBaker104

    Names of movement parts

    Either “Sir” or “Madam” should be fine
  18. 3 points
    This has been a challenging restoration, just finished it today. Rags to Riches I’m a Seiko guy, but have come to appreciate these 8110A Citizens
  19. 3 points
    dbals

    oh boy, here we go again

    At our last house someone called the cops as I was brewing beer. Said I was making moonshine- cops come asked a couple of questions and showed up a few hours later when their shift was over with beers to learn how to homebrew! I showed those neighbors!
  20. 3 points
    Dpastl

    Homemade watch hand setters

    Hey All, I thought I'd share the plans for making watch hand setters. I wasn't able to get any cheaply or easily so I decided to make my own. A note of caution, turning small diameter PVC is a pain. I was able to after much trial and error, but the accuracy was pretty bad. To be fair I was using an enormous 13x48" engine lathe with a 3jaw chuck and HSS tools ground for steel so your results may vary. Design is based on pictures of other watch setters I found on the internet. I chose 0.5mm, 1mm, 1.5mm and blunt tips. Cheers, Watch Hand Setter Drawing.pdf
  21. 3 points
    noirrac1j

    Cleaning a movement

    d-i-s-a-s-s-e-m-b-l-e-d! J
  22. 3 points
    JBerry

    Watch of Today

    On the way to me from the USA, always wanted a GP
  23. 3 points
    m1ks

    Budget friendly Bergeon-ique winder/tester

    A recent purchase which I thought warranted a review. Chinese Bergeon style winder/tester for auto watches at under £35! I'm pleased with it currently and will see how it holds up with more use, past 2 days with a morning and evening 2 hour session on an auto plug timer so far.
  24. 3 points
    TexasDon

    Something to lighten the day.

    A very small Catholic parish agreed with the priest that the trim around their mostly stone church was in bad need of a new coat of paint. Lacking much in the way of funds, they advertised for bids, emphasizing the need for economy. One local house painter of questionable reputation looked the job over and thought to himself, "I can make a quick buck here if I play my cards correctly". He submitted a very low bid and sure enough, the parish secretary phoned him a few days later to let him know that he had been awarded the job. The painter's plan was simple enough. He had just enough old paint left over from previous jobs and would not only mix them together, but also thin them severely so that he could cover the trim with new paint for only the cost of his labor. Accordingly, he arrived on the job site with his paint, rollers and brushes and began painting furiously. He needed to get the paint applied, collect his money and depart before a looming black rain cloud dumped rain on his fresh paint. That would wash all of his thinned paint from the trim and create a very expensive problem for him. He was applying paint to the last 50 ft or so of trim when the skies opened and it poured down in buckets for close to 1/2 hour without letup. The painter had taken refuge inside the church and upon exiting and looking up at his now thoroughly ruined paint, he thought to himself, now what am I to do? Right on cue a deep, resonant voice spoke to him from the departing storm clouds above. "My son, repaint and thin no more".
  25. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Watch of Today

    1978 Timex 'Viscount'
  26. 3 points
    AndyHull

    Something to lighten the day.

    Well, when Nigel Farag's lot have dragged us all back to 1926, I'm sure we will all be measuring our cloth in cubits, drinking our beer by the firkin and tugging our forelocks to our imperial masters once more. In the meantime I'll stick with Napoleon's system.. apart from kilometers of course 'cos those are bonkers. Speaking of which.. Lincolnshire archaeologists have found the grave of what is believed to be Britain's oldest man. The headstone was discovered by the side of a road that was once an ancient trackway. Careful examination of the enigmatic carvings on the stone have revealed not just his age (147) but the fact that his name was Miles from London !!!
  27. 3 points
    ro63rto

    Watch of Today

    This arrived today
  28. 3 points
    Squiffything

    Watch of Today

    Oulm quartz dual time arrived in the post today and I am impressed with the quality. Also received a nice little bit of reading material. I may finally get around to sorting out the Westminster Smiths clock :)
  29. 3 points
    More low cost fun. Just a little over three and a half quid each. My guess is, possible franken-dial, probably original and probably original. I spent more on two coffees and a couple of sticky buns in the supermarket cafe yesterday.
  30. 3 points
    yankeedog

    Watch of Today

    AS 1187 movement generic Hong Kong case.Dial decal printed on IJP. Franken for sure,but a fun experiment in spare parts.
  31. 3 points
    Nucejoe

    Watch of Today

    Seiko chrono.
  32. 3 points
    margolisd

    Pallet Stone Wear

    Look how badly the escape wheel was worn! Obviously the old one on the left and new one on the right!
  33. 3 points
    noirrac1j

    Omega today

    My B'day was yesterday, and this is a gift. I took it off the bracelet and today I've worn it to work. First day on the wrist and its working nicely. Its not too bulky and just the right size. Notice the stainless steel table--gives a hint as to where I am.
  34. 3 points
    nickelsilver

    Bergeon 4509 silicon 7

    There should always be some left over on the foam, you should be able to grease about ten thousand gaskets before needed to add grease. (Slight exaggeration, but it lasts a long time.) When you find that gaskets are coming out too dry for your liking, add some, maybe the size of a green pea, and spread it around on one of the foam sponges. If you put tons you might saturate the foam and the gaskets come out with way too much.
  35. 3 points
  36. 3 points
    StuartBaker104

    Omega Pocket Watch

    A friend asked me to take a look at a pocket watch recently which stayed in hand setting mode even with the crown pushed in. I assumed a broken yoke spring... but actually no harm done, other than dried up really sticky oil everywhere! Goodness knows when this movement was last serviced, but certainly not in the last 20 years I would guess. I didn't take any photos before disassembly as it wasn't really easy to see what the problem was just by looking. But this picture of the train bridge shows the centre wheel stuck in its bush with crusty oil Unfortunately, there are also a few fingerprints and corrosion spots on the plates, which I couldn't remove during cleaning. I found a couple of other interesting things during the disassembly. The bridle on the mainspring has a little Omega symbol stamped on it. Sadly, I don't think the spring is correct for the watch - it should be a double brace and hole spring, but only has the lugs to fit in the barrel slots, not the hole. It may also be a little short, but on the basis that it must have worked once, I thought I'd clean it up and give it a whirl. More problematic was that the balance staff was missing a little off one of the pivots - enough that the pivot wouldn't reach the end-stone, so I figured that had to go. Of course, not easy to track down a replacement balance staff for a 103 year old watch, but eBay was my friend on this occasion. New staff on the right, and what a beautiful blued Breguet hairspring Set in the lathe ready to turn off the hub Hub removed so I can punch out the staff Old staff out Punches at the ready to rivet the new staff in to place - one domed to spread the rivet and one flat to set it. The staff was a little loose in the balance arm, but it riveted down OK. Finally pushing the roller table back into place And checking the poise. It was a little out, but there was some dirt in a couple of the screw head slots and removing that seemed to do the trick. Hairspring back on and ready to go Keyless works back together and now moving freely Barrel bridge on Train wheels and jewels all cleaned Train in place One of the lovely things about old watches is the serial number popping up everywhere. It had been scratched inside the barrel and I didn't take a photo of that. but here is the marking on the back of the pallet cock. and on the back of the balance cock Quick wind and off she goes The case is stamped EWCCo (English Watch Case Co) and is hallmarked for 1927 so is therefore just over 10 years younger than the movement. It also has some case screw marks inside which don't line up with the Omega movement so obviously a later marriage. And just for kicks, alongside my Omega PW from the same year. I think I know which one John will want me to give back to him and anyway I'm still in love with those Omega hands!
  37. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Watch of Today

    For Easter Sunday - 1961 \ 1962 "21 Jewels" - The 21 series was the follow up to the 400 series that had either a Hatori or Laco movement inside. You will find many transition piece such as this one that have 400 as the case back. There are even 400 series with 21 jewel movements.
  38. 3 points
    m1ks

    Watch of Today

    After 2 weeks of Vostok Komandirskie testing on the wrist back to a vintage watch. (Very consistent and gaining pretty much in line with timegrapher so I'll regulate it a smidge). Omax automatic winding with AS2066 movement. This one has been fun, received and tested and it seemed to be running erratically. Checked on timegrapher and the beat error was all over the place. On opening I discovered the stud lever was not correctly attached to the balance cock, so auto work off. Balance off, wheel and hairspring removed and quite a bit of fiddling with a couple of pairs of tweezers ensued to get stud lever, regulating lever and cock to fit together. Then reassemble. Set beat. Regulate, reassemble automatic work. Re case, test, timegrapher was picking up the correct rate but seemed to be only picking up alternate ticks, removed, removed automatic works, re tested, same, removed checked and reinstalled balance cock, same. Set and left it for the night and this morning checked and it's keeping decent time, then I thought, I'll just try adjusting the stud lever again because it was niggling me that it was almost at the furthest point of travel to the cock. Suddenly I've got a tick and a tock again and unlike before no movement necessary to get the balance to spin, in fact it's nigh on impossible to get it to stop now that it's correctly in beat. The moral of this? Technology is great but it isn't infallible and won't help you being a dumbass and not physically checking the impulse pin alignment! After that, I have to say I really like this watch. It's in the 'to clean and lubricate' pile.
  39. 3 points
    TexasDon

    Watch of Today

    Another nice one Mo. Personally, I think it would look better on my wrist but that's just an opinion.
  40. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Watch of Today

    My recent restore of a 1984 Timex Diver style. Problem was that moisture had gotten in because someone had glued in the wrong size crystal. After several attempt to revive the movement I moved on to a swap which was also in bad shape but did comeback quite well. I added the band was to give it a full Timex look.
  41. 3 points
    HSL

    Easter fun with Top Clop

    And behold the TOP CLOP DE LUXE flies again. But I still don't know what the 21 stands for but at least it now has a 17 jewel movement.. Tha folks is everything I can contribute with for Easter Fun...
  42. 3 points
    ro63rto

    Watch of Today

    One I restored for a lume-rot. I will be reluming it at some point to mount in this restored model as my eyes can't easily make out the hands on the gold dial.
  43. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Watch of Today

    today's watch is a Timex Marlin from 1969 and the same year as the picture in the background. The picture is from a group of photos made available to the general public directly from NASA back in 69'. I was only eleven years old than. geez!
  44. 3 points
    oldhippy

    Pallet Stone Wear

    When it comes to the pallets, the only part that should be oiled are the pallet stone faces. Never oil the pivots of the pallets as it will cause drag and the movement will fail to keep time. You must use the correct oil for the escapement, if you are not sure which; look for one that specifically says for watch escapements. Some watchmakers prefer to oil the teeth of the escape wheel and let the combined action of pallets and escape wheel to distribute the oil. Pallet stones should be smooth on their face, any marks, chips and they should be re-placed. The stone is harder than the escape wheel so it is most likely it also is worn.
  45. 3 points
    Johnnie

    Best way of attack ?

    Done ! And running, it's 02.22 and my eyes are like organ stops. It turned out ok and I am pleased with it. Many thanks for all your help and advice. Ps, it's very good on petrol !
  46. 3 points
    PaulnKC, I went through the same thing a number of years ago. The device that worked the best for me was definitely a microscope. Low power loupes have a decent range of focus but as the magnification increases the range of focus decreases. At 20X any head movement will throw the watch movement out of focus. Since the microscope lenses are fixed in a frame, you can examine parts at 40X with no problems. Also, your eyes emit vapor which will fog up the loupe. I would vote for the microscope hands down. david
  47. 3 points
    Nucejoe

    Watch of Today

    As5008 was/is the valjoux of AS in alarm movements class, in most brands.Here is a fortis brainmatic AS5008.
  48. 3 points
    Nucejoe

    Watch of Today

    West end watch co.
  49. 3 points
    wls1971

    More Mystery Tools...

    The bottom items look like cut floor brads a type of nail used for nailing floorboards down, flat to prevent splitting as they are hammered into the floor board.
  50. 3 points
    AndyHull

    Best watch brand for beginners

    I agree. Pocket watches, mechanical alarm clocks and desk clocks are good, as they have nice big components and are less likely to be damaged. You might also like to look on ebay for the really cheap basket case hand wind watches, or perhaps some second hand Chinese mechanicals. The big skeleton movement Chinese manuals and automatics come up regularly, and I've picked up a couple of the last few months for less than £4.00 each. Citizen and Seiko manual winds and automatics are another option, but they tend to be slightly more pricey. Also worth considering are Indian HMTs which are a bit of a favorite of mine can be had for a few quid. The ones with the most hideous repainted dials from India, often go for rock bottom prices. The HMT manual and HMT automatic watches are clones of some of the good quality Citizen movements, and they are pretty robust mechanisms to play about with. Quite forgiving, and not much money if you come a cropper while learning on them.
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