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LiamB

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About LiamB

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  1. My machine is made by Schmid Machines, (http://www.schmid-machines.ch/web/index.php) and yes they sell for around $2000USD used. Schmid sells the new machines for around $5000CHF. Definitely not cheap As for toptimes question, I am machining the dial to fit a particular case, and a specific caliber, although they can easily be made to fit most center seconds caliber, however the limiting factor is obviously the size of image on the cliche.
  2. I thought about making the steel cliche myself at home however I didn’t want the mess and adittinal difficulty of doing it myself when a professional could provide me with an excellent cliche. As for what detail it can produce, and the depth of the etch; I cannot answer that question. However I can say that the detail is very high. (Just another reason to get it made by a professional) I wish I could share a link to where I purchased this machine, however I bought it on eBay. The owner claimed to have purchased it from a sale of old equipment from a Longines production facility in Swit
  3. Thanks Jon, I’m glad someone is intrigued by what I have been doing. I am using ink made by Berlac, several Swiss firms sell it, including Bergeron. It’s expensive but I didn’t want to experiment with other inks. I have used all three pads, however the one in the center has produced the best results thus far. I got the plate etched for me by a US firm, but any pad printing supply company should be able to etch steel. Mine cost about $500 Canadian dollars. I did design the dial myself, I am going for a vintage vibe. Thanks for the compliments! I used adobe illustrator
  4. Hey guys, I have been working on a project to make my own watch dials over the past few months. I thought I would share my progress with you thus far. It has been an awfully expensive endeavour, and I have yet to reach a final dial but the work is well underway. I have purchased a pad printing machine, speciality inks and pads as well as a custom engraved cliche of my design. Now I’m putting it all together, I have been practing printing on plastic watch crystals, until I have my silver dials complete to print on. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers
  5. Thanks for the answer, however Sellita has responded to me and they sell the movement without the date function! So it shouldn’t be a problem!
  6. This might sound like an odd question, but would it be possible to remove the date function from an eta movement? I am working on a project watch I am designing and building and I can’t source myself a movement with the desired specs that doesn’t have a date function.
  7. I just purchased a new set of Bergeron mainspring winders (#5355) which is a seven winder set with both left and right handles. I was a originally abit worried about spending a large sum on some basic kit ($800CAD) however it has really been worth it! Previously I used two vintage watch craft winder sets which caused plenty of headaches and damaged many springs which prompted me to upgrade. Although I have only wound a few springs with my new set it is quite an experience. The arbours are tapered so the spring slides smoothly off and on and after winding comes easily off the barrel without the
  8. If you are just using them on your own watch I would just go for it! They obviously will not preform to the same degree as synthetic oils and will probably require the watch to be serviced sooner. I would also recommend that you get an oil with a viscosity between the 8000/4 and the 8300 for use on the center wheel and barrel arbour. When I first started I used clock oil for that.
  9. Would anyone know how to straighten out the overcoil on this hairspring? It is from a slimline Bulova movement and the mis-shaped overcoil causes the hairspring to sit out of flat so that rubs on the balance wheel. The spring is just slightly out of flat, which would not cause problems on most watches but because of the movements slimness it is a real problem!
  10. I am working on an 18s Elgin which is a full plate movment. The amplitude is fairly low and I have a feeling that the esentric banking pins are out of place. Usaully this is an easy adjustment to make as one can look down at the lever while making the adjustment and observe the pallets and where the lever is oriented on the banking pins. However with a full plate movment this is not possible. It does have the little circular cutouts below the pallets but this is useless when trying to observe the run to the banking. Any advice on how to adjust in such a situation?
  11. It is a Louis Brandt caliber 20 CCR grade, it is fairly unusual and rare. I believe it is based on the omega 19l movment.
  12. Does anyone know how to remove the motor barrel arbor from the ratchet wheel on this watch. I have no experience working with motor barrels. Usaully I would mess around abit but as this is a valuable watch I decided it would be better to ask first, thanks.
  13. This may seem like a stupid question, but are there strength differences between an alloy and steel mainspring of the same dimensions? I have to replace mainsprings in two pocket watches (18s Waltham and 18s Illinois) and I am concerned that fitting a modern mainspring will result in knocking. Any advice, Thanks
  14. Hello, I am restoring a fairly beaten up chronograph that is missing the centre seconds hand. I have never replaced something like this before and would like to know process of fitting a new hand. Say I was to order a new hand, how oils I be sure that it would fit the chronograph seconds recording pivot. Does it come oversized and has to be broached to shape? Thanks for the help!
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