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About Jakub

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  1. I’m not experienced in adjusting balances, tho I went over some materials about it. I won’t do such a move on such a watch. For now I am happy with results on movement and power reserve. Poising tool is on the list and I have bunch of Soviet whole balances that I use for such a experiments. I’ve noticed before increased amplitude. I assume it’s for better lubricant distribution. I expect “tick” and “tock” lines to be more parallel in next 24 hours. Overall this 497, interesting experience. Specially unwind mainspring
  2. I can’t make picture clear enough, but you can take my word it is pretty much as you write. Here I am very interested. I would love to explore this further, but I guess on cheaper caliber. I have some suitable CCCR watches with heavy locks. Correct me if I’m wrong, do I better own poising tool before this experiment? Thank you for answer. I am happy to hear watch is actually behaving OK. On other side I have to resolve -26s/d. In this case I will regulate watch to V positions since there is more of them Cheers Jakub
  3. Good day! Today I finished service of LeCoultre Futurematic. Once I’ve put movement together and let it run for while, it was about weishi time. Soon enough I’ve noticed new issue for me. There is significant amplitude drop between horizontal and vertical positions, but different horizontal and vertical positions have very close results. Same issue causes this movement to slow down. I don’t realize it would do before service, since the amplitude was in general low, so I didn’t pay attention to it (my bad). After I’ve found this, cleaned train, check end shake and hair spring. Do a
  4. Hi @Graziano! Honestly, you cheered me up a lot with your answer, thank you. Interesting that I couldn’t find anything about this on internet, maybe because I wouldn’t pay attention to topics about setting hands. As you recommend, the movement holder is ordered. For delivery reasons I’ve taken this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/193909107883 It doesn’t look as good, but I believe it will do. Cheers Jakub
  5. Good evening! have been working on this Seiko Pogue with 6139B, for some time now. There was multiple changes in broken bridge screws and bad 888612. So went down eBay and resource those items. Now when everything arrived, put it finally together and to my surprise chronograph resets quite nice, but not to 0. More specifically it resets to 12s. This end of pivot is D shaped as well as hand. With my strongest loupe I see that flat of D is facing this 12 minutes marker too. Did anybody met with misaligned center wheel like this? What is potential to fix this (I mean, these ar
  6. Good evening guys! So after work right behind watchmaking desk. I did exactly as I sad. Once I’ve put it together and tiny tweak, here is result from all mighty Weishi No 1000. Think I leave it that way. One more time thanks for all inputs. Cheers
  7. Big thanks to everyone who chipped in, big help indeed. Alright I hear you all. Now after reading the thread posted above (thank you @Poljot) and all other posts. I came to conclusion and this is what I going to do... Clean the rest of the watch and barrel exterior will get “peg & rodico treatment” and arbor D5 in place where it meets barrel. After assembly put it on timegrapher and see what’s up. I guess mainly focusIng on amplitude. The movement is clean, no oil paddles and no service marks. Barrel itself is nice and clean, no old oil black stains. So I will hope this wo
  8. Hi there! Yesterday I started tear down of Longines cal. 506. Nice movement, but found this main spring barrel that has note “Do not open”. I am no experienced watchmaker and so I maybe should follow such a instructions, but I’m also curious. My question is, is there way how to open and then safely close barrel of this kind? What is potential dangers, if yes? If not, how to service such a part without opening? Regards Jakub
  9. Hi! Just want to give you a update. Finally I received parts and tools for hand replacement. I didn’t do the drilling since I don’t have tools for that. Broach worked perfect and I successfully replaced right on first try. About 1/3 with tweezers and then push down. 0,3mm tapered broach was the one to take it home for 0,27 hand to fit 0,29 pinion. BR Jakub
  10. So after all I covered staking set anvil with square from plastic bag. Pushed on hand with round head punch. That worked really good. Specially that possibility of measuring quite accurate adjustments. I needed to be quite accurate since slight doomed crystal. If someone feels like trying this. Make sure you use strong and thick plastic bag, or anything that will preserve hand surface from receiving scratches from anvil.
  11. Hey! That’s pretty close what I want to do my plan is to put sheet of leather on staking set and push with round punch. After your hint, I gonna give it a try! thank you
  12. Hello everyone! Finally received center second replacement. It is this lover hand on my picture below. Now I see that I have to shape it to meet the shape of original hand (the top one). I have couple of ideas how to do it and since I’ve never done this, think that it would be smart to ask community, what you guys do. Reason why I need to do this is to avoid hand scratching crystal and to have better reading off chrono. So I wonder if any of you have experience to share with this? Regards Jakub
  13. Also one point is that if you talk about Landeron 48 and other chronos from landeron, they have different versions. Besides shock resistance, they come in 3 different variations in no shock resistance. One of them “annulaire”, has thinned part where you fit roller and next 2 varies in diameter of part where hair spring collet sits. Patience and accuracy of measurement of disassembled balance is critical, specially in case like Landeron. Good luck!
  14. Hi I am just going through same thing with pretty much same watch. I have mine with Landeron 51 and measured dial side end of pin 0,29mm. Cousins provide hands up to 0,27mm. So just a friendly reminder that if have the same measurement, note you will have to drill 0,01mm of and fine tune with broach. Excellent process explanation was provided in this thread cheers
  15. Well if the picture shows result then well done! So far I worked on 1 Seiko and it was 6139B from Pogue and, that was so easy. I’m sure you guys know this well but it was first time for me to see center pinion with specially shaped pinion on dial end to fit hand. I mean that solves so much trouble. Wish to see this more often since I like to work on chronos the best, but this hand is like “sweet end” before casing. Well I guess practice, practice, practice...
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