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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Blue steel can't be cut with a jeweler's saw but can be filed. That used to be how they checked the repivoting exam for clocks back in the day- saw bites, fail, file doesn't bite, fail. The commercially available blue steel bars watch and clockmakers typically use is very hit or miss. The nomial size is often way off (not such a big problem), and the heat treatment can vary between too soft, uneven, or sometimes actually ok. I have some and use it for pins and such. For staffs, stems, pinions- anything from steel- I use oil hardening steel in its annealed state. The standard in Switzerland is Sandvik 20AP, probably not so easy to find in small quantities elsewhere. In the U.S. O1 would be the closest thing (and is a fine steel for watch parts). Parts get hardened and tempered after machining, with generally the last 0.01mm or removed in finishing for bearing surfaces. For a staff I cut everything right to size except the pivots which are a good 0.10mm oversized, and I leave the taper for the roller table straight and oversized. After heat treatment, holding on the now straight roller diameter the top pivot is brought to 0.01mm over final size, the surfaces polished, rivet formed. Flip around and do lower pivot, roller taper, polish. Finally finish pivots in jacot. Heat treatment is a little different than most books or schools teach. I use an iron tube welded to a long thin bar. These are actually CO2 or N2O cartridges from selzer or whipped cream bottles with the neck cut off (about the size of the first two digits of an index finger). This gets filled about 1/3 with fine wood charcoal powder, parts go in, filled the rest of the way. The whole thing is torch heated until glowing orange, then the contents dumped in oil. The parts fished out with a magnet, and they are a nice grey color and very clean. After cleaning off the oil they are blued in a pan of fine brass filings over an alcohol lamp. With the above method there is rarely any deformation of even long thin parts, and no pitting.
  2. 6 points
    JBerry

    Watch of Today

    Picked up this Sandoz Alarm watch, a bit big for my wrist, but it has a certain retro charm
  3. 6 points
    margolisd

    My First Omega Service

    I was really pleased with this service and it's the first time I've worked on an Omega. It was a 1030 movement from the 70s with a broken mainspring. It looked like it hadn't been serviced in decades. Terrible reading as you can see. It was really nice to work with compared to the scrap I'm usually trying to rescue! I cleaned it, oiled it, replaced the mainspring and regulated it and just look at the difference! And it's within 10 seconds in all positions. Just made me happy so thought I'd share :)
  4. 5 points
    Dpastl

    Homemade Tools

    I'm really into machining and making my own tools (generally I spend more time doing that then the actual hobby itself...), so I thought I'd start a topic about DIY tools for watch repair. My first success has been making a watch winder on the 3D printer. Winders are one of the more expensive and difficult to find tools for me, so it really made sense to start here. Here's the watch winder, it consists of three parts (from left to right): the pluger, spring barrel, and winding arbor. The only non-printed part is to drill a small hole in the arbor and put a piece of steel through it to catch the mainspring. It's certainly more fiddly than I imagine a proper tool would be and will not last as long. But it gets the job done and you can make it any size you want! You can find the CAD files on thingiverse:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3540660
  5. 4 points
    Horological lubrication is quite a fascinating subject. Unlike some things in watch repair that haven’t really changed in the last hundred years horological lubrication seems to always be changing. As this particular discussion demonstrates lubrication of the pallet fork pivots sometimes they do sometimes they don’t. Then the choice of lubrication’s typical responses look at the tech sheet. But the various watch companies typically all have differing recommendations and those recommendations almost always have changed with time. Then there is the missing information such as surface treatment and other stuff. Or the assumption whoever’s reading a technical guide is a professional watchmaker that knows what they’re doing. Of course we all have our personal choices and thoughts on the subject which very likely could all be different. The original title of this discussion was lubrication of the pivots the pallet fork that generally is an easy subject in that it’s usually frowned upon at least by the Swiss. Oiling of the rest of the escapement can get quite interesting. This is where time is an interesting thing or when the technical sheets came into existence. For an example of this I pulled out a couple of older Swiss technical guides and the earlier one is recommending 9020 for the pallet stones. A couple years later they switch to 941. Then I don’t remember how many years before 9415 comes into existence but it will show up eventually. Then when it does its typically for the higher frequency watches as it stays in place better. But with time even on lower frequency of 18,000 BPH watches you’ll see either or recommendation. Currently everyone seems to going just to 9415. So did you think this was confusing at all? Did you wonder what I meant by missing information other than surface treatment? Omega’s an interesting company over the years they’ve had technical information separate from their normal technical guides. Working instruction number 40 is quite interesting for instance it’s on lubrication and I’ve attached the PDF to this message. I think you'll find starting on page 13 quite interesting.. CousinsUK.com Omega 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication.pdf
  6. 4 points
    margolisd

    Pallet Stone Wear

    It was very erratic and hard to quantify. But I'd say around 10% of the beats were completely wrong. The replacement escape wheel and pallet fork arrived. Fitted today and wow, what a difference. I put the escape wheel under the microscope to compare it to the old one and yeah it was completely worn. Thanks everyone for the advice.
  7. 4 points
    Nucejoe

    Watch of Today

    Seiko chrono.
  8. 4 points
    Squiffything

    Dipping my toe in the cock waters?

    Oh and you might want to reconsider your title..... we could end up with fetish weirdos finding your post through dodgy search engines
  9. 4 points
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    I think I spent rather too much time getting this to work again. I still haven't dug up a suitable crown, but it is running, all of the corrosion is gone, and the crystal is not too shabby. I popped it on a period correct band. So what was so interesting about this little Timex you may ask? Well it turns out it is just as ancient as I am, since it was produced in 1964. It had pretty much everything wrong with it. Covered in interesting (and no doubt mildly toxic) blue and green corrosion. It had no crown (but the remains of a stem), wouldn't wind, wouldn't run, couldn't move the hands You name it.. However in between a few household chores including having to nip out and purchase and replace a Venetian blind who's plastic supporting beam decided to shatter in to a million pieces bringing the whole mess crashing down on to the window ledge (and destroying a glass vase of flowers in the process), this afternoon, I tore it down, cleaned it, replaced a few bits and eventually got it running nicely. I've included a picture of the new blind, just so you can admire my handy work. It still needs a little bit of cosmetic work, (though that hair at 8 o'clock is now gone I assure you), but given that its age, I think we can forgive that, unlike the original window blind, which was only produced in 2015. Somehow I doubt if the new blind will last any where near as long as the watch.
  10. 4 points
    Tmuir

    Barrel ID Measuring tool

    It's time to get back to working on my Fusee clock and finish the new barrel for it. Although I could manage without making this tool I decided it was worth making to ensure I get the endshake correct. I wanted to measure the distance between the bushes inside the clock barrel and obviously you cant use a vernier for that. That's where this tool comes in. Its a pretty simple tool. The threaded rod is a 6BA steel threaded rod I had lying around and I turned up 2 brass ends. The one on the left is only threaded for about 10mm and the rod is screwed and Loctited into it. The one on the right is threaded for the first 10mm and then just clearance drilled the rest of the way. I did this as my taps are not long enough to tap the whole length. The shoulders of the brass ends are 7.5mm diameter with the narrow parts 5.5mm diameter. The idea is this can be used on any barrel that the pivots are larger than 7.5mm. Before I get onto how to use it I will quickly show how I tap small threads like this. The picture below shows my lathe fitted with a drill chuck in the tail stock and held in the drill chuck is a steel rod that I drilled and reamed to give it a smooth bore. I then turned up the tap holder with the shank to the size its a nice smooth fit into the bore. The end of the tap holder is drilled to be a good fit on the tap shank size, knurled to give you some grip and then a grub screw hole is cross drilled and tapped and a grub screw fitted, so when you slide in the tap the grub screw is tightened up on one of the flats of the square on the end of the tap. The drill chuck and reamed tube hold the tap in line for tapping and as you screw the tap in by hand it slides in the tube so no stress is put onto the new threads being cut. You can obviously also use this in a drill press. A closer shot of two tap holders and the sleeve, they are each made for different size taps Measuring tool in use. The shoulder of the left side is sat against the shoulder of the bush inside the barrel and the other brass end is gently wound out until it is touching the shoulder of the other bush, then the 6BA nut is done up against it to stop it slipping, you then remove it from the barrel and use your verniers to measure the gap between the shoulders on the measuring tool. I can now ensure that my new barrel will have the same amount of endshake as the old barrel, yes I could of worked it out without making this tool, but its always fun making new tools.
  11. 4 points
    jdrichard

    Hebdomas Bridge Repair

    So I needed to remove a broken screw from the bridge, the one that locks in the Hairspring stud. I first tried drilling it out with small bits from China and this resulted in a peek in the hole. Then I got a great idea and took a bit that broke and filed it down to a wedge,like a screwdriver bit. This got rid in the peek and allowed me to use another bit with cutting oil. And it worked. Used a lathe for this with a collet holding tail stock. Here are are the pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  12. 4 points
    saswatch88

    Watch running fast

    if it is running fast and has a beat error then the watch will need be adjusted not regulated. regulating (moving regulator stud to fast or slow) will not correct beat error. beat error occurs when the balance wheel will rotate lets say 360 degrees in one direction, then 270 degrees in the opposite direction. Normal osculation should be about 270 degrees in both directions. 1. Observe the HS and BW under a strong eye loop. Is the the BW moving in fast short strokes (usual cause is magnetism), or is it moving wildly fast in long strokes. best way to see this is if you have a smart phone with slow motion feature record the BW then watch it in slow motion and you can get an idea of the degree in rotation and get an idea which direction is off. also under magnification watch the HS coils expand and contract, are any of the coils sticking, is the HS riding up or not laying completely flat. 2. Demagnetize the movement and balance assembly separately. remove pallet and cock and reinstall balance asbly. make sure the roller jewel rests in the middle of of the banking pins. if it does not then there is your "beat error" problem. you will have to adjust the HS collet on the BW untill that roller jewel is dead center in the banking pins. there is a way to do this with spring attached but that requires experience so HS will have to come off. remove the stud from the cock and observe how the HS sits on the BW, make sure there are no warped or sticking coils. if all is good then make your adjustment and reattach stud. time the watch again and see if there is any issues. 3. If there are still timing issues then a full service is in order. pivots will need to be checked for deformities and/or wear. picot jewels will need to be stripped and cleaned of old oil and debris, etc. End/side shakes of the BW should also checked before service begins. A TIMING issue is a sure sign that a SERVICE is in order, so I will recommend a full service either way for this watch regardless of what the fault is. But I always like to do some fault finding first (things mention above) then proceed with the service, you will also be doing other quality control inspections during the duration of the service. i.e checking pivots, pivot jewels, mainspring, pinions and teeth, end/ side shakes of train, etc. demagnetize the the movement and
  13. 4 points
    clockboy

    Runs only when crown pressed

    It is a case of strip and inspection.
  14. 4 points
    Here's a fresh upload on Thingiverse for 3D printing. A simplemovement holder for Miyota 8215, Clones and other variants. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3501843
  15. 4 points
    jaycey

    Seiko 7T27 Movement Or Circuit Board?

    Got the new movement today and the good news was, it is a direct swap, just had to swap the datewheels as the new movement had a white datewheel and the Seiko Gen 2 has a black one. Simple enough to do. Swapped the 7T27 battery plate over with the original Seiko markings too All back together and working great!
  16. 3 points
  17. 3 points
    StuartBaker104

    Omega Pocket Watch

    A friend asked me to take a look at a pocket watch recently which stayed in hand setting mode even with the crown pushed in. I assumed a broken yoke spring... but actually no harm done, other than dried up really sticky oil everywhere! Goodness knows when this movement was last serviced, but certainly not in the last 20 years I would guess. I didn't take any photos before disassembly as it wasn't really easy to see what the problem was just by looking. But this picture of the train bridge shows the centre wheel stuck in its bush with crusty oil Unfortunately, there are also a few fingerprints and corrosion spots on the plates, which I couldn't remove during cleaning. I found a couple of other interesting things during the disassembly. The bridle on the mainspring has a little Omega symbol stamped on it. Sadly, I don't think the spring is correct for the watch - it should be a double brace and hole spring, but only has the lugs to fit in the barrel slots, not the hole. It may also be a little short, but on the basis that it must have worked once, I thought I'd clean it up and give it a whirl. More problematic was that the balance staff was missing a little off one of the pivots - enough that the pivot wouldn't reach the end-stone, so I figured that had to go. Of course, not easy to track down a replacement balance staff for a 103 year old watch, but eBay was my friend on this occasion. New staff on the right, and what a beautiful blued Breguet hairspring Set in the lathe ready to turn off the hub Hub removed so I can punch out the staff Old staff out Punches at the ready to rivet the new staff in to place - one domed to spread the rivet and one flat to set it. The staff was a little loose in the balance arm, but it riveted down OK. Finally pushing the roller table back into place And checking the poise. It was a little out, but there was some dirt in a couple of the screw head slots and removing that seemed to do the trick. Hairspring back on and ready to go Keyless works back together and now moving freely Barrel bridge on Train wheels and jewels all cleaned Train in place One of the lovely things about old watches is the serial number popping up everywhere. It had been scratched inside the barrel and I didn't take a photo of that. but here is the marking on the back of the pallet cock. and on the back of the balance cock Quick wind and off she goes The case is stamped EWCCo (English Watch Case Co) and is hallmarked for 1927 so is therefore just over 10 years younger than the movement. It also has some case screw marks inside which don't line up with the Omega movement so obviously a later marriage. And just for kicks, alongside my Omega PW from the same year. I think I know which one John will want me to give back to him and anyway I'm still in love with those Omega hands!
  18. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Watch of Today

    For Easter Sunday - 1961 \ 1962 "21 Jewels" - The 21 series was the follow up to the 400 series that had either a Hatori or Laco movement inside. You will find many transition piece such as this one that have 400 as the case back. There are even 400 series with 21 jewel movements.
  19. 3 points
    m1ks

    Watch of Today

    After 2 weeks of Vostok Komandirskie testing on the wrist back to a vintage watch. (Very consistent and gaining pretty much in line with timegrapher so I'll regulate it a smidge). Omax automatic winding with AS2066 movement. This one has been fun, received and tested and it seemed to be running erratically. Checked on timegrapher and the beat error was all over the place. On opening I discovered the stud lever was not correctly attached to the balance cock, so auto work off. Balance off, wheel and hairspring removed and quite a bit of fiddling with a couple of pairs of tweezers ensued to get stud lever, regulating lever and cock to fit together. Then reassemble. Set beat. Regulate, reassemble automatic work. Re case, test, timegrapher was picking up the correct rate but seemed to be only picking up alternate ticks, removed, removed automatic works, re tested, same, removed checked and reinstalled balance cock, same. Set and left it for the night and this morning checked and it's keeping decent time, then I thought, I'll just try adjusting the stud lever again because it was niggling me that it was almost at the furthest point of travel to the cock. Suddenly I've got a tick and a tock again and unlike before no movement necessary to get the balance to spin, in fact it's nigh on impossible to get it to stop now that it's correctly in beat. The moral of this? Technology is great but it isn't infallible and won't help you being a dumbass and not physically checking the impulse pin alignment! After that, I have to say I really like this watch. It's in the 'to clean and lubricate' pile.
  20. 3 points
    TexasDon

    Watch of Today

    Another nice one Mo. Personally, I think it would look better on my wrist but that's just an opinion.
  21. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Watch of Today

    My recent restore of a 1984 Timex Diver style. Problem was that moisture had gotten in because someone had glued in the wrong size crystal. After several attempt to revive the movement I moved on to a swap which was also in bad shape but did comeback quite well. I added the band was to give it a full Timex look.
  22. 3 points
    ro63rto

    Watch of Today

    One I restored for a lume-rot. I will be reluming it at some point to mount in this restored model as my eyes can't easily make out the hands on the gold dial.
  23. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Watch of Today

    today's watch is a Timex Marlin from 1969 and the same year as the picture in the background. The picture is from a group of photos made available to the general public directly from NASA back in 69'. I was only eleven years old than. geez!
  24. 3 points
    Johnnie

    Best way of attack ?

    Done ! And running, it's 02.22 and my eyes are like organ stops. It turned out ok and I am pleased with it. Many thanks for all your help and advice. Ps, it's very good on petrol !
  25. 3 points
    PaulnKC, I went through the same thing a number of years ago. The device that worked the best for me was definitely a microscope. Low power loupes have a decent range of focus but as the magnification increases the range of focus decreases. At 20X any head movement will throw the watch movement out of focus. Since the microscope lenses are fixed in a frame, you can examine parts at 40X with no problems. Also, your eyes emit vapor which will fog up the loupe. I would vote for the microscope hands down. david
  26. 3 points
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    Its boring old quartz day today, as I'm going to be doing a bit of a general tidy up around the house, and need something that can take a few scratches without any worries. A Sekonda freebie from the junk pile on a random NOS leather strap.
  27. 3 points
    Nucejoe

    Watch of Today

    As5008 was/is the valjoux of AS in alarm movements class, in most brands.Here is a fortis brainmatic AS5008.
  28. 3 points
    Nucejoe

    Watch of Today

    West end watch co.
  29. 3 points
    wls1971

    More Mystery Tools...

    The bottom items look like cut floor brads a type of nail used for nailing floorboards down, flat to prevent splitting as they are hammered into the floor board.
  30. 3 points
    ro63rto

    Watch of Today

    Sector Depthmeter today
  31. 3 points
    Nucejoe

    Watch of Today

    Luch is made in belaruss, I got this in moscow where obviously it retails for more. I think the price was about seven dollars back then( sixteen years ago) also got ten manual winds in minsk for five dollars a piece. Day/ date jumps real good and feels like you would expect from an expensive brand, low quality glass, and the chrome is decent quality.
  32. 3 points
    ro63rto

    Watch of Today

    7a28-7040 Dec '82 Never getting rid of this one [emoji7]
  33. 3 points
    JBerry

    Spring - Time to get outdoors

    Just back from a little staycation here in Ireland... weather was beautiful for a change. As people say here, it'd be a great little country if you could put a roof over it!
  34. 3 points
    Johnnie

    Watch of Today

    Hi fellow watch fans, I am not normally into quartz watches, but this Casio has impressed me enough to admit I am smitten with it. Accurate, waterproof, (I have well tested it) nice looking, wears well on the wrist and cheap as chips ! £73.00 including jubelee bracelet, £53.00 on black rubber strap.
  35. 3 points
    Eye loupes have a sort of standard progression of working distance/magnification. If you look at the image, the "value" is the working distance in inches. Your 10x has 1 inch, which is pretty tight, and you'd only use that for inspection not general work. Most people use something between 2.5x and 5x for general work, I mostly use a 3x. As you go to higher powers it becomes more critical that the loupe be at the right distance, as your eye compensates for the little variations and the weaker the easier, so higher powers can be fatiguing. If you get an unmarked loupe in an Ebay score or flea market, you can determine the focal length by focusing the sun (like we did as kids with a magnifying glass) and measuring the distance from lens to object. This is essentially the same as the working distance, and then you know the power.
  36. 3 points
    ro63rto

    Watch of Today

    Sunny day so this one got chosen. Old pic
  37. 3 points
    clockboy

    peter alarm clock

    Listening to it yes the comb has teeth missing hence the un recognisable tune.
  38. 3 points
    jdrichard

    Any History on This One

    New Find Hebdomas. Need some history on it. Runs well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  39. 3 points
    Perhaps the "older" WRT-members remember that I, as a watch-novice (which I still am) back in begin 2016 serviced my own Rolex Submariner (3135). After putting myself through a rigorous training on two ETA 2540 / 2541, 17mm ladies watches, the Rolex 3135 was next. That caused, rightly, some stir on the forum. Before the service I build Stefans Watch-O-Scope to test the end results and to do some adjustments if required. With the excellent video of Mark, servicing a 3135, I performed the service. There were some heart-stopping moments, especially when at the end, while adjusting the daily-rate with a Microstella tool, my right-hand holding the balance-wheel with tweezers started doing his own thing and I bend the hairspring at the stud. Luckily that I could fix......... After the service the Watch-O-Scope signal looked horrible. The beat-error was in different position all over the place. We had endless discussions on the forum about what to do and what was next. Despite the poor W.O.S results, the Rolex ran constantly +2 or +3 seconds a day. Other attempts on the Watch-O-Scope proofed futile and for a long time I've been thinking about admitting defeat and to get the Rolex fixed by an official Rolex service point. That was until today. Even through I was quite happy with the W.O.S. results on all my other watches, I decided (after repairing a heirloom pocket-watch and the owner donated me some extra) to buy the Chinese Weishi 1000 timegrapher. Knowing how the Rolex raw-data looked like on the W.O.S. screen, I didn't expect the Weishi 1000, which came today, to make much sense out of it either. The proof is in the pudding they say, so one of the first watches to test was my Rolex. To my surprise the Weishi 1000 picked the 28800 bpm signal correctly and without any problems up. Even better, and to my big relieve !, the Rolex runs actually quite good. I hadn't worn the Rolex for a least two weeks, so it was cold and had to be hand wound. Lift angle set at 52 degrees. Dial Up: -7 s/d, 294 degrees, 0.1 ms Dial down: -7 s/d, 292 degrees, 0.0 ms Crown down: -3 s/d, 272 degrees, 0.0 ms Crown up: -2 s/d, 278 degrees, 0.2 ms. I know that when worn, the Rolex runs +2 to +3 s/d constantly. This get to show, as @JohnR725 keeps saying with timegrapher signals; Rubbish in = Rubbish out. To my big relieve it also shows that I didn't ruin my Rolex and that it actually runs very fine....... no need for a new balance staff or an official Rolex service, saving me at least a $1000 and giving me a peace of mind. I've been very happy with the W.O.S and it still has its place. The Weishi 1000 however ....... It thoroughly impresses me ! I like to thank everybody for their input a few years back and just in case there were still some members out there wondering & worrying about my novice Rolex "endeavor", we can now put this aside and all sleep well Cheers: Roland.
  40. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    1968 Timex Marlin

    one of these?
  41. 3 points
    My pic from the archives. Now discontinued, I have two more waiting for a new dad.
  42. 3 points
    jdm

    Chinese Lathe Price List

    Hello after a long time. To help in purchasing one, I have published a price list of the lathe and accessories sold on Ebay by sincereclocks. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vSWfhOjlAfpI_c1EWF8MPSKnbIVIPoIH6mxCC1nVYQPQ8cJbiwBhLc1v597F9Z_AZteVKsfJ1lZDOOe/pubhtml That is the same classic "Geneva Pattern" C0608 lathe as described on the specialized website: http://www.lathes.co.uk/chinese-watch-lathe/ Its qualities have been already been discussed here and on many other places, so all I wanted to do is to summarize the options available, using a more conventional part naming.My opinion is that the product is still overpriced in relation to its industrial cost by a good 100%, especially for some parts. For example, the 3 jaws chuck sold for $155 is a common Furda K01-50 plus adapting arbor, available elsewhere for $60. And the seller make no discount on the lathe purchase with an accessory set, howeve a 5% discount is offered if the transaction is made directly. Since the same product is also sold under the bran Vector by Boley.de, and described as "inexpensive". I've included a summary of that option. I'll make no comment on its price, but at least the wooden box looks great. In another post I'll summarize the ready choices available for getting a new micro or mini lathe.
  43. 3 points
    jdrichard

    Starting aNew Balance Staff

    Fixing a friends dad’s old Waltham and it needs a new staff. Step 1 is to remove the balance cock. Step 2 is removing the balance with the roller table and hairspring attached. Step 3 is removing the hairspring. Then have a look at the good pivot. It will provide a good reference to measure for the new pivot. Step 4 is to remove the roller table. Lots of different tools and techniques here but I have an old factory tool. Step 5 is to cut off the old riveted balance away from the staff, on a lathe. Step 6 is to punch out the old staff from the balanceStep 7 is to measure the old balance staffThen you prepare a piece of blued steel for the Lathe to cut the new staff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  44. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Timex Camper Restoration

    Here we have a mechanical wind Timex Camper that has a broken mainspring. Over the next few days I will post pictures of its progress. So here we go -
  45. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Watch of Today

    I don't wear this one since it is NOS...but maybe one day.
  46. 3 points
    I don't wear glasses but I'll add that I use a 3x loupe (right eye, right handed) for general bench work, and use a zoom microscope for inspection and oiling. Around here the glasses wearers tend to take them off and use a conventional loupe but that may be due to their particular eyesight. I know others who use the clip on loupes and are happy. For general work anywhere between 2.5x and 4x is ok. Going above, even 5x, can be very tiring for the eye. The high power loups are more for inspection use or short duration. For lathe work I have a scope mounted over it that gives 10x or 20x. 10 for most stuff, 20 for really fine work.
  47. 3 points
    Found the spring on my computer desk the other side of the room [emoji2359]... Ordered the parts from cousins, just in case I need them. Thanks for the help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  48. 3 points
    It looks like a pretty generic spring.Do you have another movement of any other manufacture laying about? there's a pretty good chance it's spring will work. Which side of the Atlantic are you on? I will search my kitchen floor.
  49. 3 points
    oldhippy

    Screw Blueing

    Brass keeps the heat it doesn’t spread the heat outwards. Some people use brass filings. This is the way I used to blue screws. Remove the entire burr with a needle file and use various grade of emery, I used sticks, sometimes cloth. Wash out the screws in my old watch cleaning machine. I had an old copper penny (copper is as good as brass when it comes to heat) that was bent at an angle and held in a mini vice which was held in my bench vice. Sprit lamp underneath the penny, when the penny got hot I would put the screws one by one on the penny and blue them, as soon as the screw was blued drop it in clean oil, I used 3 in 1 this will add a shine to the screws. When all done wash them in the cleaning machine again. All nice and blued (the same colour blue for them all) ready to use when assembling the movement.
  50. 3 points
    yankeedog

    homemade cleaning machine ?

    I have often wondered about laying one of my stereo speakers on its back , placing a large dish over the woofer,putting the cleaning solution and parts in a plastic jar and listening to Jethro Tull.
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