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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 9 points

    Unitas 6497 Custom Watch

    Hey folks, I'd like to share a watch I put together for my Brother's birthday. The movement is a pretty old Unitas 6497 which I picked up from the widow of a watchmaker a year or so back, the plates have been skeletonised and I'm pretty sure this was a once off job by the watchmaker. The mainplate is brass, and the decorated bridge plates appear to have been plated (quite crudely, when inspected under a loupe). The movement is keeping great time now that it is serviced. I made an attempt at a logo using the film-free transfer technique Mark has used in a couple of recent Youtube videos. The logo didn't adhere very well to the dial, not particularly happy with it. In person and to the naked eye it looks pretty good I think. The case is a 41mm case I picked up from Ofrei, who I sourced the dial and hands from also. Hope ye like it!
  2. 9 points

    Something to lighten the day.

    Four Catholic men and a Catholic woman were having coffee. The first Catholic man tells his friends, "My son is a priest, when he walks into a room, everyone calls him 'Father'." The second Catholic man chirps, "My son is a Bishop. When he walks into a room people call him 'Your Grace'." The third Catholic gent says, "My son is a Cardinal. When he enters a room everyone says 'Your Eminence'." The fourth Catholic man then says, "My son is the Pope. When he walks into a room people call him 'Your Holiness'." Since the lone Catholic woman was sipping her coffee in silence, the four men give her a subtle, "Well....?" She proudly replies, "I have a daughter, slim, tall, 38D breast, 24" waist and 34" hips. When she walks into a room, people say, "Oh My God!"
  3. 7 points

    A lovely little lusina

    My father recently asked if I would service his wrist watch which he bought from the NAAFI at RAF Akrtiri in Cyprus during his national service days. The watch came to me as ticking, but the oil on the keyless works had gummed up like tar, making it almost impossible to wind without fear of doing some damage. Anyway, here are a few before and after photos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. 6 points

    Is it salvageable?

    Well, I've pretty much wrapped up this project. The replacement chronograph pushers (buttons) arrived last week and needed a bit of adjustment before they could be installed. As you can see from the picture below, the shaft of the pusher which acts on the Flyback Lever was a bit long and needed to be turned down on the lathe then re-threaded. The lot of Excelsior Park parts which I purchased earlier included replacement coil springs for the pushers which was just perfect as the spring for the Flyback Lever was quite rusty. The replacement is pictured below. I found it was easiest to case the movement first, then install the pushers. While doing this I noticed there was a part missing from the keyless works. Worried that I had lost something irreplaceable, I went back over my images taken during disassembly and discovered the missing bit wasn't there when I started. The missing piece belongs to the setting lever assembly- although what exactly it's purpose is I'm not sure. Perhaps it provides stability when applying the clutch. I noted the keyless works seems to function properly without the part so maybe it's just the appendix of an EP40 movement. I've circled the area with the missing bit below and added a linked image from the Watchguy's image archive which shows exactly what is missing. If I ever do find the missing part, I'll probably have to give my right arm to purchase it. I replaced the Flyback Lever and Operating Lever, both of which secured the pushers to the movement. The Flyback Lever is secured with a left-hand thread shouldered screw. The original screw was destroyed by rust but I found a suitable replacement; it doesn't have the three slots cut into the head so I added a dab of blue paint to distinguish the screw. I still need to find a large case screw to replace the original which was also destroyed. I needed to adjust some of the eccentrics in order to get the chronograph working just right. It's a pity too because those eccentrics had perfect heads on them until they were galled by my screwdriver. That will serve as a reminder to review the section in George Daniel's book on screwdriver sharpening. I cleaned up the dial with a bit of water and a Q-Tip but as you can see I lost some of the tachymetre around 3 o'clock from my efforts. The text came away without effort so I stopped any further efforts to improve the dial. The Hour, Minute, and Minute Recording hands all had oxidation damage. I scrapped the rust away with an oiler and Rodico and applied a coat of varnish to the luminous paint to keep it from crumbling. I think I could have polished and re-blued the hands (which would have been the "correct" solution) but opted to keep the scarred look; it's a reminder of what this watch has been through. By the way- blued steel hands on a white dial is just a fantastic look. They look black against the dial when viewed straight on, but when the light hits them just right they shimmer with the deepest blue. I tried to catch an image of the effect with my camera but just couldn't do it justice. A high dome acrylic crystal completed the job. So far, so good. The movement has kept time for the past twenty-four hours without issue. Once I've found a strap for it, I'll take it out on the town and then make final adjustments if need be. I think I got lucky on this one as the water damage wasn't as great as it could have been and I was able to find all of the replacement parts at a reasonable cost. Only the pushers broke my budget but I'm happy with the new buttons. I still have some NOS parts left over which I can hold onto or flip later to offset the cost of repair.
  5. 6 points
    Hello All, This is my first post so I thought I would show a little finishing technique I learnt a while back. It basically turns the ratchet or crown wheel into a matte/ frosted finish. It was popular back in the day with some high end companies and still looks good in my opinion. I'll run through how it's done and try answer your questions as best as possible. What you need: 1. glass plate 2. Micron paper in various grits. 20 and 12 will do. 3. Tetrabor 800 grit/ mesh 4. Ultrasonic or cleaning machine 5. rodico First thing first, you have to flatten your ratchet wheel. To do this I use some lapping paper on glass. I start on a 20 micron and rub the ratchet wheel with my finger in a figure 8 pattern or circular or however I feel. (we arent trying to achieve black polishing flatness) If you are worried you can set up a jig to hold the ratchet wheel. but I often find using your finger will suffice. Once happy, move onto a 12 or 9 micron and do the same. At this point it is imperative to clean the wheel so that you remove all the grit from the paper that may be stuck between the teeth. So chuck it in an ultrasonic or your cleaning machine. Next place some tetrabor onto your plate, no need to add oil or water. place wheel onto plate and start rubbing it in. Generally it doesn't take to long no longer than a min or so. Doesn't hurt to check the piece to see how the finish is developing. if you want to check you can dab it with rodico, very carefully to remove the tetrabor. Do NOT wipe with a tissue or anything, this finish scratches so easy its crazy!! you can always chuck it through the ultrasonic (carefully) to see how the pattern is going. Its the checking and chasing that one last scratch which takes up the most time. The slightest bit of dust or dirt on the glass plate will scratch the wheel. You can always blue the wheel after, it comes out with an interesting tone when blued with this finish. This technique is fairly hard and does take some time to get good at, because it's just so easy to scratch and because of this scratches stand out against the matte surface. I'll try answer questions as best as possible. I try and post interesting stuff on Instagram regularly at least 3 to 4 times a week. obr_horology is my account on insta. its just time consuming to post (slow at typing) I plan on doing a youtube video in the coming weeks to better explain it. I learnt this from Henrick Korpela. Check him out if you haven't heard of him. He also writes in the AWCI and gives away a lot of info. Thanks O
  6. 6 points
    Blue steel can't be cut with a jeweler's saw but can be filed. That used to be how they checked the repivoting exam for clocks back in the day- saw bites, fail, file doesn't bite, fail. The commercially available blue steel bars watch and clockmakers typically use is very hit or miss. The nomial size is often way off (not such a big problem), and the heat treatment can vary between too soft, uneven, or sometimes actually ok. I have some and use it for pins and such. For staffs, stems, pinions- anything from steel- I use oil hardening steel in its annealed state. The standard in Switzerland is Sandvik 20AP, probably not so easy to find in small quantities elsewhere. In the U.S. O1 would be the closest thing (and is a fine steel for watch parts). Parts get hardened and tempered after machining, with generally the last 0.01mm or removed in finishing for bearing surfaces. For a staff I cut everything right to size except the pivots which are a good 0.10mm oversized, and I leave the taper for the roller table straight and oversized. After heat treatment, holding on the now straight roller diameter the top pivot is brought to 0.01mm over final size, the surfaces polished, rivet formed. Flip around and do lower pivot, roller taper, polish. Finally finish pivots in jacot. Heat treatment is a little different than most books or schools teach. I use an iron tube welded to a long thin bar. These are actually CO2 or N2O cartridges from selzer or whipped cream bottles with the neck cut off (about the size of the first two digits of an index finger). This gets filled about 1/3 with fine wood charcoal powder, parts go in, filled the rest of the way. The whole thing is torch heated until glowing orange, then the contents dumped in oil. The parts fished out with a magnet, and they are a nice grey color and very clean. After cleaning off the oil they are blued in a pan of fine brass filings over an alcohol lamp. With the above method there is rarely any deformation of even long thin parts, and no pitting.
  7. 6 points

    Watch of Today

    Picked up this Sandoz Alarm watch, a bit big for my wrist, but it has a certain retro charm
  8. 6 points

    My First Omega Service

    I was really pleased with this service and it's the first time I've worked on an Omega. It was a 1030 movement from the 70s with a broken mainspring. It looked like it hadn't been serviced in decades. Terrible reading as you can see. It was really nice to work with compared to the scrap I'm usually trying to rescue! I cleaned it, oiled it, replaced the mainspring and regulated it and just look at the difference! And it's within 10 seconds in all positions. Just made me happy so thought I'd share :)
  9. 5 points

    ETA Resources

    Just thought I should post some links here from ETA Costumer support. They are quite informative and gives you something to do on a rainy summer day. The first one is to their Dictionary, here you can find all their definitions and even how things works, like the escapement and so on. https://www.eta.ch/dictionary/dictionary.html The other ones are movement specific ETA 2892A2 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/2892a2/2892a2.html ETA 7750 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/7750/7750.html ETA 6497 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html ETA 251.471 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/251471/251471.html When you go there the first time you probably need to get flash.. look up in the left corner. After loading it is just to start exploring the information.
  10. 5 points
    Like most of us, I look for perfection and oiling cap jewels with a regular oiler take a lot of practice and patience. I found myself having to reclean and re-oil over and over before I could approve my work. So, I decided to invest in an automatic oiler for this purpose and although very expensive I think it was worth every penny, and I was so happy about it that I decided to make a video about it. Please bear with me though as this was my very first attempt at video editing.
  11. 5 points

    Watch of Today

    Cyma Watersport with a R420 bumper GF case. Guessing from the 50s or 60s?? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  12. 5 points

    Watch of Today

    1905 Illinois grade 184 14k solid gold case Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  13. 5 points

    Homemade Tools

    I'm really into machining and making my own tools (generally I spend more time doing that then the actual hobby itself...), so I thought I'd start a topic about DIY tools for watch repair. My first success has been making a watch winder on the 3D printer. Winders are one of the more expensive and difficult to find tools for me, so it really made sense to start here. Here's the watch winder, it consists of three parts (from left to right): the pluger, spring barrel, and winding arbor. The only non-printed part is to drill a small hole in the arbor and put a piece of steel through it to catch the mainspring. It's certainly more fiddly than I imagine a proper tool would be and will not last as long. But it gets the job done and you can make it any size you want! You can find the CAD files on thingiverse:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3540660
  14. 5 points

    Pallet Stone Wear

    It was very erratic and hard to quantify. But I'd say around 10% of the beats were completely wrong. The replacement escape wheel and pallet fork arrived. Fitted today and wow, what a difference. I put the escape wheel under the microscope to compare it to the old one and yeah it was completely worn. Thanks everyone for the advice.
  15. 4 points

    Laser Printed Decal

    I've been working on this for a while. My wife's due to give birth any day now and this is what I'm going to give her after the baby is born. This is my first attempt at restoring a dial. HSL was kind enough to send me a spare one to practice on. Which I did, and it ended up being the final one I used. What was also interesting, I attempted Mark's laser printed logo method.Which worked surprisingly well. The edges of the print aren't quite as sharp as the original. But you would have to have a very expert eye to tell the difference. I think with a very high DPI laser printer you could get this more or less perfect.
  16. 4 points

    No adjustment left on beat corrector

    0.5ms beat error is a perfectly acceptable value and will not influence accuracy. If you don't believe that, regulate to the best positions average, wear the watch few days and let us know. Unless you are interested in learning how the hairspring collett is adjusted, which is a pretty delicate task, I would not recommend you try that on a balance cock with movable stud arm.
  17. 4 points

    BSA C15

    It is a public holiday in Western Australia today (WA day), and today was a big day. The BSA in my avatar for the first time in about 5 years I took it for a ride today. When I purchased it, it cosmetically looks pretty good, but mechanically was not so good. I started a ground up restoration on it 5 years ago, but the project stalled a couple of years back due to me not having enough time and some of the engine work I did not feel confident to do. A few months ago my dad mentioned he was looking for a project to give him something to do so I gave him my BSA with the deal I would keep it licensed and pay for any parts needed that I hadn't already purchased and he could finish the restoration and keep the bike to ride until he was bored of it. He got it running a few days ago, so I dropped by today and took it for a ride. I have been looking forward to having that ride for the last 5 years. The bike still needs a little more tweaking before its 100% complete, now my dad is on the hunt for another vintage bike. Shame I had to sell my WM20 project bike a couple of years back. Anyhow, this is how it looks now, not hugely different from before, but mechanically much sounder. I'm sure it will give my dad another few months of fun before he gets bored of it and hands it back.
  18. 4 points

    ETA 251.262 Walkthrough

    Even though the garden is screaming for attention one has some spare time to continue my magical journey through the heap of quartz movements. This time it is the ETA 251.262 Chronograph which can be found in watches like Breitling Colt Steel, Certina DS FIRST, Longines Hydro Conquest and so on.. I'm quite surprised of the amount of quartz movements which are getting a new life after a good clean and service. As usual all the files are in a PDF format, and all pictures are original. ETA_251_262_Dissasemble.pdf ETA_251_262_Assemble.pdf
  19. 4 points

    Something to lighten the day.

    You have been pronouncing it wrong all these years.
  20. 4 points

    Watch of Today

    Omega Speedmaster 1964, my favourite watch !
  21. 4 points

    Why does this barrel say do not open

    Still working and keeping good time.
  22. 4 points

    Luminox Tritium Replacement.

    I purchased this Luminox off ebay for parts and repair for $30. The movement got wet. I purchased the replacement ETA 251471 for $39. That was the easy part. The tritium tubes were also burnt out. You can buy the tubes for about 8 bucks each off Amazon. You can also send it back to Luminox to have them replaced for an ungodly amount. I purchased this chinese tritium tube watch for $45. The tubes are exactky the same size. Perfect fit. The tubes are held in with a recess in the dial ring so theres no glue. It was super easy to replace them. Ill have about $100 bucks in it. Not bad for a fixer upper. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  23. 4 points

    First project

    I just completed my first project - (nearly, as described below) full service of this Elgin Sportsman. I polished the crystal and cleaned a whole bunch of gunk out. It's mostly complete - I have a new main spring for it that justbarribed with the strap (I was waiting to pay shipping once). I've given it to my wife and she chose the strap herself. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
  24. 4 points
    More low cost fun. Just a little over three and a half quid each. My guess is, possible franken-dial, probably original and probably original. I spent more on two coffees and a couple of sticky buns in the supermarket cafe yesterday.
  25. 4 points
    Horological lubrication is quite a fascinating subject. Unlike some things in watch repair that haven’t really changed in the last hundred years horological lubrication seems to always be changing. As this particular discussion demonstrates lubrication of the pallet fork pivots sometimes they do sometimes they don’t. Then the choice of lubrication’s typical responses look at the tech sheet. But the various watch companies typically all have differing recommendations and those recommendations almost always have changed with time. Then there is the missing information such as surface treatment and other stuff. Or the assumption whoever’s reading a technical guide is a professional watchmaker that knows what they’re doing. Of course we all have our personal choices and thoughts on the subject which very likely could all be different. The original title of this discussion was lubrication of the pivots the pallet fork that generally is an easy subject in that it’s usually frowned upon at least by the Swiss. Oiling of the rest of the escapement can get quite interesting. This is where time is an interesting thing or when the technical sheets came into existence. For an example of this I pulled out a couple of older Swiss technical guides and the earlier one is recommending 9020 for the pallet stones. A couple years later they switch to 941. Then I don’t remember how many years before 9415 comes into existence but it will show up eventually. Then when it does its typically for the higher frequency watches as it stays in place better. But with time even on lower frequency of 18,000 BPH watches you’ll see either or recommendation. Currently everyone seems to going just to 9415. So did you think this was confusing at all? Did you wonder what I meant by missing information other than surface treatment? Omega’s an interesting company over the years they’ve had technical information separate from their normal technical guides. Working instruction number 40 is quite interesting for instance it’s on lubrication and I’ve attached the PDF to this message. I think you'll find starting on page 13 quite interesting.. CousinsUK.com Omega 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication.pdf
  26. 4 points

    Watch of Today

    Seiko chrono.
  27. 4 points

    Dipping my toe in the cock waters?

    Oh and you might want to reconsider your title..... we could end up with fetish weirdos finding your post through dodgy search engines
  28. 4 points

    Watch of Today

    I think I spent rather too much time getting this to work again. I still haven't dug up a suitable crown, but it is running, all of the corrosion is gone, and the crystal is not too shabby. I popped it on a period correct band. So what was so interesting about this little Timex you may ask? Well it turns out it is just as ancient as I am, since it was produced in 1964. It had pretty much everything wrong with it. Covered in interesting (and no doubt mildly toxic) blue and green corrosion. It had no crown (but the remains of a stem), wouldn't wind, wouldn't run, couldn't move the hands You name it.. However in between a few household chores including having to nip out and purchase and replace a Venetian blind who's plastic supporting beam decided to shatter in to a million pieces bringing the whole mess crashing down on to the window ledge (and destroying a glass vase of flowers in the process), this afternoon, I tore it down, cleaned it, replaced a few bits and eventually got it running nicely. I've included a picture of the new blind, just so you can admire my handy work. It still needs a little bit of cosmetic work, (though that hair at 8 o'clock is now gone I assure you), but given that its age, I think we can forgive that, unlike the original window blind, which was only produced in 2015. Somehow I doubt if the new blind will last any where near as long as the watch.
  29. 4 points

    Barrel ID Measuring tool

    It's time to get back to working on my Fusee clock and finish the new barrel for it. Although I could manage without making this tool I decided it was worth making to ensure I get the endshake correct. I wanted to measure the distance between the bushes inside the clock barrel and obviously you cant use a vernier for that. That's where this tool comes in. Its a pretty simple tool. The threaded rod is a 6BA steel threaded rod I had lying around and I turned up 2 brass ends. The one on the left is only threaded for about 10mm and the rod is screwed and Loctited into it. The one on the right is threaded for the first 10mm and then just clearance drilled the rest of the way. I did this as my taps are not long enough to tap the whole length. The shoulders of the brass ends are 7.5mm diameter with the narrow parts 5.5mm diameter. The idea is this can be used on any barrel that the pivots are larger than 7.5mm. Before I get onto how to use it I will quickly show how I tap small threads like this. The picture below shows my lathe fitted with a drill chuck in the tail stock and held in the drill chuck is a steel rod that I drilled and reamed to give it a smooth bore. I then turned up the tap holder with the shank to the size its a nice smooth fit into the bore. The end of the tap holder is drilled to be a good fit on the tap shank size, knurled to give you some grip and then a grub screw hole is cross drilled and tapped and a grub screw fitted, so when you slide in the tap the grub screw is tightened up on one of the flats of the square on the end of the tap. The drill chuck and reamed tube hold the tap in line for tapping and as you screw the tap in by hand it slides in the tube so no stress is put onto the new threads being cut. You can obviously also use this in a drill press. A closer shot of two tap holders and the sleeve, they are each made for different size taps Measuring tool in use. The shoulder of the left side is sat against the shoulder of the bush inside the barrel and the other brass end is gently wound out until it is touching the shoulder of the other bush, then the 6BA nut is done up against it to stop it slipping, you then remove it from the barrel and use your verniers to measure the gap between the shoulders on the measuring tool. I can now ensure that my new barrel will have the same amount of endshake as the old barrel, yes I could of worked it out without making this tool, but its always fun making new tools.
  30. 4 points

    Hebdomas Bridge Repair

    So I needed to remove a broken screw from the bridge, the one that locks in the Hairspring stud. I first tried drilling it out with small bits from China and this resulted in a peek in the hole. Then I got a great idea and took a bit that broke and filed it down to a wedge,like a screwdriver bit. This got rid in the peek and allowed me to use another bit with cutting oil. And it worked. Used a lathe for this with a collet holding tail stock. Here are are the pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  31. 4 points

    Watch running fast

    if it is running fast and has a beat error then the watch will need be adjusted not regulated. regulating (moving regulator stud to fast or slow) will not correct beat error. beat error occurs when the balance wheel will rotate lets say 360 degrees in one direction, then 270 degrees in the opposite direction. Normal osculation should be about 270 degrees in both directions. 1. Observe the HS and BW under a strong eye loop. Is the the BW moving in fast short strokes (usual cause is magnetism), or is it moving wildly fast in long strokes. best way to see this is if you have a smart phone with slow motion feature record the BW then watch it in slow motion and you can get an idea of the degree in rotation and get an idea which direction is off. also under magnification watch the HS coils expand and contract, are any of the coils sticking, is the HS riding up or not laying completely flat. 2. Demagnetize the movement and balance assembly separately. remove pallet and cock and reinstall balance asbly. make sure the roller jewel rests in the middle of of the banking pins. if it does not then there is your "beat error" problem. you will have to adjust the HS collet on the BW untill that roller jewel is dead center in the banking pins. there is a way to do this with spring attached but that requires experience so HS will have to come off. remove the stud from the cock and observe how the HS sits on the BW, make sure there are no warped or sticking coils. if all is good then make your adjustment and reattach stud. time the watch again and see if there is any issues. 3. If there are still timing issues then a full service is in order. pivots will need to be checked for deformities and/or wear. picot jewels will need to be stripped and cleaned of old oil and debris, etc. End/side shakes of the BW should also checked before service begins. A TIMING issue is a sure sign that a SERVICE is in order, so I will recommend a full service either way for this watch regardless of what the fault is. But I always like to do some fault finding first (things mention above) then proceed with the service, you will also be doing other quality control inspections during the duration of the service. i.e checking pivots, pivot jewels, mainspring, pinions and teeth, end/ side shakes of train, etc. demagnetize the the movement and
  32. 4 points

    Runs only when crown pressed

    It is a case of strip and inspection.
  33. 4 points
    Here's a fresh upload on Thingiverse for 3D printing. A simplemovement holder for Miyota 8215, Clones and other variants. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3501843
  34. 4 points
    Found the spring on my computer desk the other side of the room [emoji2359]... Ordered the parts from cousins, just in case I need them. Thanks for the help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  35. 4 points

    Seiko 7T27 Movement Or Circuit Board?

    Got the new movement today and the good news was, it is a direct swap, just had to swap the datewheels as the new movement had a white datewheel and the Seiko Gen 2 has a black one. Simple enough to do. Swapped the 7T27 battery plate over with the original Seiko markings too All back together and working great!
  36. 4 points

    Screw Blueing

    Brass keeps the heat it doesn’t spread the heat outwards. Some people use brass filings. This is the way I used to blue screws. Remove the entire burr with a needle file and use various grade of emery, I used sticks, sometimes cloth. Wash out the screws in my old watch cleaning machine. I had an old copper penny (copper is as good as brass when it comes to heat) that was bent at an angle and held in a mini vice which was held in my bench vice. Sprit lamp underneath the penny, when the penny got hot I would put the screws one by one on the penny and blue them, as soon as the screw was blued drop it in clean oil, I used 3 in 1 this will add a shine to the screws. When all done wash them in the cleaning machine again. All nice and blued (the same colour blue for them all) ready to use when assembling the movement.
  37. 3 points
    Here’s a tip for those of you who shop from CousinsUK.com! Cousins have a strict policy when it comes to returns, and if you wish to shop from them you must approve of these terms. However, don’t automatically assume it’s no use to get in touch with them if you feel that something has gone wrong. In my experience Cousins are always willing to listen to your arguments with an objective and humble attitude. My experience with Cousins’ service, prices, and treatment are really the best!
  38. 3 points
    I think the best option would be looking for a supplier of jewels for industrial purposes there are plenty about: http://www.true-point.co.uk/ the above supplier has jewels in the range of sizes you would require.
  39. 3 points
    I would like to see some phots first of the movement including the balance before I comment further. There is a screw called a “stop-up” screw, which was built into the model 21 chronometer by Hamilton. This screw was used to block the train wheels for transport. This screw was often removed during service. Does yours still have it?
  40. 3 points

    Whats wrong with my Omega?

    Are the hands catching on each other or the crystal ? is it stopping in the same place
  41. 3 points

    Something to lighten the day.

    Robbed... positively fried I would say. However, on the plus side, I can use it as an excuse to tell terrible sausage jokes... Capitalism, Socialism, and Communism have a meeting for tea at noon. Capitalism and Communism arrive on time, but Socialism is nowhere to be found. Finally he arrives, out of breath and apologetic." I'm sorry," says Socialism, "I was standing in line for sausage." Capitalism says - "What's a line?" And Communism says - "What's a sausage?" ... or ... There were two sausages in a frying pan. One sausage turned to the other and said "man its hot in here", the other sausage looked shocked turned and said.. "Now there's something you don't see every day... a taking sausage!!" ... or if that doesn't tickle you ... There's this butcher and one day just as he is about to close the shop for the day a dog came in with a note in his mouth. The note read "Can I have a steak and three sausage links please?" The butcher took the note and gathered the things. When he turned back around he was surprised to see a twenty dollar bill in the dog's mouth. The dog grabbed the meat in a bag and left the shop. The astounded butcher decides to close up his shop and follow the dog. The pair soon came to a bus stop. The dog looked at the schedule and sat down on the bench. The first bus came and the dog got up and trotted over to the front of the bus, looked at the number and sat back down. Another bus came and again the dog looked at the bus number and saw it was the right one. He got on, the butcher closely following. The bus rumbled on and the dog jumped up walked to the front of the bus, leaped up and rang the bell to stop the bus. The dog got out with the butcher in tow and headed off down the street. After some time they turned in to a driveway. The dog bounded down the tarmac to the door and clattered the letter box. The dog did it again and hopped up on a fence to peer in the window. The canine knocked on the window with his paw then jumped back on to the tarmac, grabbed the meat and walked up to the door. The door opened and a man walked out and started to yell at the dog. The butcher ran up to stop him. The butcher said "What are you doing? This dog is amazing!" "What are you talking about? This is the second time this week that he's forgot his key!" BTW - Pro tip.. Do NOT Google "Sausage watch"... just saying...
  42. 3 points

    Cleaning a movement

    d-i-s-a-s-s-e-m-b-l-e-d! J
  43. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    On the way to me from the USA, always wanted a GP
  44. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    For Easter Sunday - 1961 \ 1962 "21 Jewels" - The 21 series was the follow up to the 400 series that had either a Hatori or Laco movement inside. You will find many transition piece such as this one that have 400 as the case back. There are even 400 series with 21 jewel movements.
  45. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    7a28-7040 Dec '82 Never getting rid of this one [emoji7]
  46. 3 points

    Watch of today

    Its been posted before, but its as good as anything else for saying good Monday morning. Omega constellation stainless steel wirh ESA 9162. All original including bracelet and going strong. I have the box and papers for this one. Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk
  47. 3 points

    1968 Timex Marlin

    one of these?
  48. 3 points
    My pic from the archives. Now discontinued, I have two more waiting for a new dad.
  49. 3 points

    Chinese Lathe Price List

    Hello after a long time. To help in purchasing one, I have published a price list of the lathe and accessories sold on Ebay by sincereclocks. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vSWfhOjlAfpI_c1EWF8MPSKnbIVIPoIH6mxCC1nVYQPQ8cJbiwBhLc1v597F9Z_AZteVKsfJ1lZDOOe/pubhtml That is the same classic "Geneva Pattern" C0608 lathe as described on the specialized website: http://www.lathes.co.uk/chinese-watch-lathe/ Its qualities have been already been discussed here and on many other places, so all I wanted to do is to summarize the options available, using a more conventional part naming.My opinion is that the product is still overpriced in relation to its industrial cost by a good 100%, especially for some parts. For example, the 3 jaws chuck sold for $155 is a common Furda K01-50 plus adapting arbor, available elsewhere for $60. And the seller make no discount on the lathe purchase with an accessory set, howeve a 5% discount is offered if the transaction is made directly. Since the same product is also sold under the bran Vector by Boley.de, and described as "inexpensive". I've included a summary of that option. I'll make no comment on its price, but at least the wooden box looks great. In another post I'll summarize the ready choices available for getting a new micro or mini lathe.
  50. 3 points
    This particular one is not possible to pin unfortunately. The best remedy is to clean out the old adhesive and apply new. I would use a slower drying epoxy (very very small amount applied using a clock oiler for example). Apply when the glue is tacky enough to hold the spring in place so you can test if it is correctly positioned. Once you are convinced of its correct position along the length of the end of the spring then leave it to set. Do this with the stud re-attached to the index but the hairspring not attached to the balance staff so that you can check the position of the hairspring collet being directly over the pivot hole. This will make it easier for you to observe that the spring is straight and true on the stud.
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