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It's definitely a press fit. Sometimes I've encountered a bit of glue between the plastic spacer thing and the dial itself. I usually just try to find a space where I can slowly and safely insert the screw driver tip and slowly pry it out. I do this in multiple spots along the movement/dial until it comes out evenly so as not to break the dial feet.

Very interesting program.

Very nice Sea Wolf brought in for repair. Nice to see this brought in from sitting in a drawer to getting worn daily. Cleaned in the Elma RM90 Reassembled but next will re-luminous the hands. Hands complete. I didn't attempt to remove or polish the spots on the hands for fear of maring the mirror polish from original issue. This watch has the threaded speed regulator so getting to a accurate gain/loss was a pleasure. Steady had to get in beat via friction adjuster though. New crystal to arrive this week along with a new crown and she is ready to go.

One of the great things about collecting and repairing is that feeling of taking a bunch of parts and making a working watch again. This restore begins with a scrap pile of cases from a former Timex repair center. I chose a late 1960's Marlin case that is missing the stem tube. So to the parts stash and one issue resolved. Off it than goes to get a bath in cleaning solution , polished, new crystal added along with correct case back. Next I service a used #24 movement also from the same lot the cases came with and the assembly begins. Since the hands are chromed, I just use an old eraser pencil to bring back their shine. The sweep comes from NOS stock. Grease the stem tube, set lever, insert a NOS stem\crown, snap on the case back and there ya go. Will give this one a wear to test its time keeping.

Press fit it was. I carefully used an Exacto Knife, and it popped off. Thanks everyone!

Greetings and Salutations!

OK, So I have had the movement serviced and reassembled by Richard (http://thewatchspotblog.com") and it now looks fantastic. @WatchDoc I have no intention of selling it just yet! I think I will enjoy it for some time before that ever happens! I have also fitted a new Hirsch black Crocodile strap with gold-plated buckle. I wonder what would have been fitted originally? Thanks everyone for your help and advice, I hope you like the end result as much as I do.

My impression is "D" collets are 10mm collets, but don't go buying a set on the strength of that. There is some info here http://www.lathes.co.uk/derbyshire/. i'm sure I have at least one Levin 10mm collet, let me compare it to the PTA collets. You could probably find a drawing of a Levin collet and see if it will fit. With all these collets, there is no "standard" unfortunately. Their origins date to a time when everybody did their own thing. Now a large number are interchangeable, but not all ....there can be slight differences in the thread and length overall and even the body dia. If you hunt about on the web are two lists of collet dimensions I remember seeing, one for European lathes and one for US lathes. They might give some clues

Thanks again.

I just measure a 10mm PTA, it was 15.1mm dia, large end of the cone. Body of course is 10mm.

Having received and tested the "Bergeon 6400 for various shapes", I can now confirm that it indeed works with various shapes (maximum width 45 mm). It feels like a really solid tool and it works very well. Expensive yes, but I can confirm that it does its job. The only thing I'm not perfectly happy with is that the arms that grab the crystal are pretty hard to push all the way out to 45 mm. It feels like the inner diameter of the rubber seal is too narrow. Perhaps a bit of silicon might make it a bit smoother!? Then again, it's not every day we need to lift a crystal that large.

Differences between Vostok 24XX parts: The Mainspring Barrel I’ve seen two types of Vostok 24xx mainspring barrels, and although similar they are not compatible. I learned this the hard way. As I had just finished servicing the above “Wostok Made in USSR” (I believe called “Sun Rise”), I tried to wind it fully, but half way through the click slipped and created a "chilling sound" in the train. Fortunately the watch survived (well, it’s Russian so I’m not too surprised ;)). The problem, as I later learned, was that I had fitted the watch with a brand new mainspring barrel. When investigating the source of the problem I noticed that the ratchet wheel was slightly wiggling in its slot on the barrel bridge. When the mainspring tension became too strong it would make the ratchet wheel misaligned with the click. Investigating further I could, to my surprise, conclude that the mainspring arbor was "too tall", and that was what made the ratchet wheel wiggle. At this point I compared the brand new barrel with some old barrels, and noticed the following differences. The new arbor is 0.2 mm taller than the old arbor. The new barrel has a slight elevation which the old one lacks. However, the inside and outside diameters of the two barrels appear to be identical. Same with the new barrel lid; it has a slight elevation which the old one lacks. Other than that the dimensions seem to be identical. As far as I can tell, there’s no difference in design or dimensions between the new and old mainsprings (although I'm not 100 % sure) as long as they are for the same calibre. For example, a mainspring for a 2409 will fit both the new and old barrels, and a mainspring for a 2415 too will fit any of the two types of barrels. However, the mainsprings themselves are differently designed for manual (2409/2414) and automatic movements (2415/2416). For example, at meranom.com (which sells spare parts) they sell barrels for 2409 (manual), 2414 (manual), and 2416 (automatic), but .not for the 2415 (automatic). I would assume the mainspring and barrel for the 2416 is suitable for the 2415 as well. Do note, however, that all of these barrels are of the new type with the taller arbor and the elevation on the barrel and barrel lid.

I always used an arkansas stone.

I use a thin diamond stone. The insides of the two blades are left with a longitudinal grain to give the tweezers grip. I always “take them back” until there is no evidence of beaking. You have to hold them pressed together against a bright light and inspect with a loupe for this.

You can also use flat emery sticks, they work well for this application

I use the method in the vid but use 1500 grit paper. When you squeeze them together with a moderate amount of pressure the tips should stay closed.

There is a good video on Youtube on the subject, well worth watching https://youtu.be/injDQHraiLI

So my order arrived today from Esslingers, and the main thing was a new set of screwdrivers. I was skeptical at the thought of a set like this for under $100 but all I can say is WOW! Very solid base that rotates on ball bearings, hefty weight to the screwdrivers themselves, and a full set of replacement blades as well. Also scored a new movement holder, some emery sticks, and a couple other odds and ends. A new workmat too, this one can be wiped down and is padded. The movement pictured is my new project, an Illinois 19j Bunn, I think I'll document the process in the walk through section.

If I can manage to get it in an envelope and keep it under 5mm thick, then I can send to Romania for £1.20. Just PM me if you want one.

Oh, if you are in Europe then I could possibly look through my spares and send you a 955 with working keyless works. Always good to have spares for them if you are working on watches regularly.

Cool, I got an ebay notification set up for this watch. Some day the right one will show up an I will grab it

Once again: You want Petroleum ether (BENZINE), NOT BENZENE. NOTE the spelling with an 'I' Synonyms and CAS Numbers: naphtha 8002-05-9, VM&P naphtha 8032-32-4, rubber solvent 8030-30-6, Stoddard solvent 8052-41-3, petroleum thinner 64742-89-3. Other synonyms: Ligroin, mineral spirits, white spirits, safety solvent, SBP spirits, painter’s naphtha. https://www.acs.org/content/dam/acsorg/about/governance/committees/chemicalsafety/safetypractices/clip-petroleum-ether.pdf

Bought one a month ago from one of my work mates and I love it. The only issue that i have with it is that it falls behind with aprox 1 minute over 24H and the balance wheel has a weird rotation to it (maybe this is why it's loosing time). Trying to find a replacement balance wheel and run a full service on it. Other than that, congrats on your purchase and I hope you'll enjoy it Andrei.

Came across one of these for sale a few months ago but was too expensive. Very beautiful pieces!

I spent the day literally watching paint dry. I was using black lacquer to fill in the engraving on a pocket watch case to make it stand out. I will send pictures when it is finished. In the mean time I was looking for screwdriver sharpening stone holders on the net. The sticker shock was amazing. So i said to myself, "Self" your only watching paint dry, make your own, you have a sharpening stone and some wood. So I made this from scrap wood while watching paint dry. I'm happy with it & it cost nothing. It is perhaps not as pretty as Bergeon but they have enough money.

If the screwdriver blade isn't supposed to bottom out in the screw head, that is one rule I break with regularity. Every screw I've driven in my life has had the driver blade bottom out. I'll continue that way. I don't have a problem with the blade coming out while turning. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

For sharpening the blades I always used an arkansas stone with a little 3 in 1 oil with the same tool that sstakoff has posted. It takes a lot of practise to get it right. If you're like me when I first tried I messed up many. Make sure you have the correct size blade for the screw again its practise, first make sure you hold the screwdriver dead upright and not leaning to a side, master that and your screwdriver won't slip out of the screw slot.