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rappeleur last won the day on January 23

rappeleur had the most liked content!

About rappeleur

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  1. Watch dial restoration/cleaning

    yeah, some youtube guy used to do this solely with warm (about 60 ° C iirc) water, letting the dials soak a bit, then tapping them off with q-sticks afterwards (no rubbing). results were quite good!
  2. yes, there is a tiny little increase of force needed when proceeding beyond 10 pm I will try another brand of battery for this is the most easiest way to exclude one of the two reasons... The above mentioned type is ok?
  3. Thanks so much!! I already have Jendritzki’s "watch in repair" ("Die Armbanduhr in der Reparatur" in german). I have heard a lot of good things about the other you recommended. Hairspring fun is like an oxymoron - I will have a look as well. As for my timegrapher: yes, if the beat is way out, it show 9,9 ms as max value. Also 999 s/d is the max. deviation from keeping time. I read a lot of comparisons with better models in other forums, which all came to the conclusion, that the chinese timegrapher for about $ 200 is remarkably good. The waveform on the screen? Hm, I demagnetized the watch before testing, maybe it is some uneven wheel? I had this "curve" on some other watches too (especially the very old ones), newer models show a complete straight line on the screen...
  4. Hello at all, my Junghans Dato-Chron stops ticking every night at 10 p.m. First assumption: the date change comes into gears and needs to much energy the battery or gearwork cannot provide. Question: Is this more likely due to a weak battery (a fresh battery is in the watch, although not the original "mallory wh3" - what is the closest match in modern batteries? I took a LR43 = V12GA = AG12 - 301 = 386 = SR1142 = SR43 battery with 1,5 V which generally should work well. Or is this mostly due to a dirty movement and a service is the only way to keep the watch running (even at night)? Thanks for suggestions!
  5. yeah, I know, I wanted to give adive to the TO "Link" for his/her problem: I only saw the photo and thought this might be a thing to check for him/her before taking apart the whole movement... (It may also be that the balance was just set a bit wrong in place, so that the jewel came to lie outside the pallet fork and thus couldn’t be moved by it).
  6. Beat rate - balance or hairspring

    Funny, I had quite that same issue the other day: See my recent thread...
  7. Beginner: Messed up hair spring

    Hmm. I am not a professional, but I have never seen a balance spring with that little rings/rounds... Can this run satisfactory and correct?
  8. It looks like the pallet fork is not in the right place... It is not evenly lying / rather slanted. Is it moving freely from left to right and vice versa? (maybe it is just the angle of the photo).
  9. Watch dial restoration/cleaning

    Hi, and there is no print colour rubbing off with this liquid? I destroyed quite a few letters when trying to clean a dial (making it completely blank in such cases) with other fluids...
  10. After a bit of tinkering around with this issue...: I am now able to change a balance spring within 3-4 minutes (I practised it some dozen times last day). Conclusio: I tried with a most similar spring, which was obviously much too weak, nearly not swinging at all when mounted. The other one was "stiffer" but much too slow. I then shortened the length half a revolution bit by bit. After having cut some 1 - 1,5 revolutions the balance spring was about to make the watch quite good keeping time. Only thing I encountered: when setting time on the timegrapher it is a quite large change when moving the regulator only the smallest bit. See picture: agreed, the beat error is way off, maybe I’ll correct that in another try... but for the other values, hey, that is a scrapt watch, which maybe hasn’t only seen the sunniest times the last 80 years!
  11. Oiling Pallet Pivots

    Quite impressive indeed! Have you checked on a timegrapher if the speed changed (is it running faster now?)?
  12. Hello! Up front: I know that usually one takes a new balance (or whatever spare part) and makes a proper repair. BUT, this is more of a general question... please correct me if I am wrong! The speed of a watch is beside many other things dependent on the length of the balance spring. The longer the spring, the slower the watch. (?) Also the weight of the balance is important. The heavier, the slower. Given the case, I have a (scrap) watch with no balance spring and no idea, how the correct one looks like. But I have a enormous amount of old springs for repair. I can now pick one, put them on and see how it is "performing", meaning: keeping time. When the watch is gaining about 5-10 minutes a day: is there a way to set the correct speed with the actual spring or is this quite impossible? For example: how much (in min/day) is another round of the spring? Or say, an extra 1 cm of length? How much can be adjusted screwing the little balance screws in or out from the center? Or is oiling the pallet fork pivot slowing the movement also a bit? Sorry for asking such noobie questions, but this adds a lot to my understanding Thanks!
  13. Quartz Watch Repair

    Hello, I wondered if there is a manual around for the ETIC Polytest 340.587? I would be thankful if someone helped me out with some information, thank you!
  14. Crystal Press Recommendation

    Yes, this was just what I was thinking! I only have flat dies because I have not bought a better set yet hence my question, which one to buy. Perhaps I misinterpreted the above suggestions for my crystal-tool. I will have a deeper look into techniques and dies/tools. Thanks so far!
  15. Crystal Press Recommendation

    So... There is no way putting my glasses with my tool into place. The mounting device is too high, the glass doesn't stand high enough for gripping. But even when picked up from a flat surface, the tool always slips from the glass. The glass has a tilted border (see photos). Wrong tool / wrong glass /wrong technique?