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Here we go with part 2. Now it's easy to note, that I'm not a professional as the cleaning equipment is only... ehm... semi-professional. Special treatment for the balance and the pallet fork. The equipment for oiling and grease. Inserting the new mainspring. Reassembling the train bridge. Surprise: Much easier than on other watches, the parts fall into correct positions by themselves. Nice. Barrel bridge and ratchet system. The keyless works. Assembling and oiling the Pallet fork. The return of the balance. A drop of oil for the balance and escape wheel stones. Winding up and...it runs! Oops, some adjustment needed. Better. Reassembling the automatic device. Inserting the screws for movement and dial. Time for the cannon pinion and the hour wheel. Bringing back dial and hands (oh, I love those Maxi dials). Back in the case... ...and completed with the automatic device. Some grease for the gasket. Got it. It's called a wrist watch, so it's for the wrist not for the safe.

Here a little walkthrough the servicing of my Rolex 5513, calibre 1520. Sorry for the funny english, I'm no native speaker. I'm not a professional watchmaker, this is only amateur-work. I start by opening the case, taking off the automatic device and disassemble it. Now I remove the movement and take off hands and dial. Removing the cannon pinion. Now it's time for the balance and the pallet fork. Continuing disassembling with ratchet and train wheels. Next one is the barrel bridge. I decided to use a new mainspring. Now it's time for the keyless works. On the other side of the movement the spring for stopping the balance. Removing the screws for the movement and the dial. And reassemble the balance for protection reasons. Ok, everything taken apart, ready for cleaning. Best regards Erik

Today I'm going with a vintage Seiko Sportsman Seahorse I haven't worn for a while ..

Finally a slow-motion video of the balance working I took during the work.

If the 3 parts you circled are in one unit, i would separate the bottom two (chaton and jewel) from the top one (spring) place the chaton and jewel assembly on the balance cock in the hole. It is easier to do that with the balance cock installed in the movement. The assembly should fit nicely on top of the balance staff., with the pivot going into the chaton. then lock the assembly in place with the spring. Be careful, the spring will ping at any opportunity! It may be prudent to locate the spring on the chaton/jewel assembly using rodico to avoid losing it. Then you just need a steady hand to rotage the spring into place, i use 2 pairs of tweezers, or one pair and a sharp pegwood. There are 3 "arms" on the spring, they all need to go into the groove in the cock which is located around the chaton/ jewel assembly. i usually insert 1 arm when i place the spring on the assembly, and then rotate the spring to fit the other 2 arms in the channel, pushing gently on the arm i want to fit in the channel whilst rotating the spring. hopefully i have interpreted your question correctly and the above is of help! good luck with it

Got my Huntana on today It's been getting quite a lot of wrist time lately. At 34mm diameter and just 8mm thick it is just such a comfortable watch. The thin bezel makes it wear bigger than it is and the design and layout is so easy to read. It has a Unitas 6325 inside which is a lovely movement. A nice easy size to work on, simple, bullet proof, consistent, and reliable. This particular one is also the loudest ticker I have.

As You know i am brave watch butcher but to replace a balance staff... even i had no guts to try The correct way to remove the balance is to cut the staff from the support side on the lathe. By simply pushing out the balance staff from the balance can distort the balance and scrape the balance hole making it bigger, so the new staff with the same size may wobble. Staking back would be an easy part, since one can make a simple staking tool and turn the desired stakes. This is actually on my list

Sent from my Honor 5c

If I'm understanding you, then the whole assembly has popped out of the balance cock. It doesn't fit on the balance staff, it pushes into the recess in the cock. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just ease the three elbows of the spring into the groove, one at a time as you rotate the spring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thank you @Geo and @transporter for your answers. I just had another look at staking sets, but time didn't make them cheaper I was hoping that it could be done, one way or another and despite the increased risk, by hand. Looking at Mark's video, making a visual judgment (please correct me if I'm wrong), the hairspring and roller could be removed using fine edged lever-type hand-removers (?). Transporter: What do you mean with a "staking-table"? Would a "staking-block" do? https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/36-hole-bergeon-1902 If so, 3 punches are needed. 1) to remove the staff 2) to "initiate" the rivet and 3) to flatten the rivet. I'm also not sure if the Landeron 48 staff is friction fit or riveted type. That's another leaning point ......

If you search "diashock" in this forum you will find a lot of threads with hints. Also please give a look to some parts naming document, because isn't clear what you mean. It also helps to watch some videos, of course Mark's ones are very good.

I find watch price guides to be of dubious use any way, the well worn phrase its only worth what someone is willing to pay comes to mind but it does hold true the best reliable guide I find nowadays is Ebay search for previous auction sales (not buy it nows people list at such unrealistic prices its never a good way to determine price) and see what has been bid on a Item there are so many factors to price such as condition, rarity, desirability. The Shugart books are good to have for model identification and serial number information but it would be impossible to produce a book with every model ever produced it would have to be the size of the encyclopidea britannica to do that. I have over the years built up quite a collection of books on individual companys or individual watch types such as military watches, chronographs and automatic watches it has been expensive but worth the investment to gain knowledge. So the answer IMO is no you will not find a one size fits all watch book for pricing watches

Large spring.. these are different from the Novodiac in the sense that there's only one slot to feed a leg at a time. What I do is get one leg in the groove, one in the gap and one over. Rotate the spring so that the leg above the groove moves towards the gap. Once its in the gap, press it down with pegwood and rotate. When rotating the spring, it helps if you push on the side away from the gap as well. Pretty difficult they first few times but it gets easier. The novodiac has 3 legs and 3 slots, requiring a tool to push them down simultaneusly, hence the need for the tool. You can make one by shaping one end of pegwood to fit the outer dia. of the setting and hollowing the inside a bit to clear the jewel. Small spring.. when removing, insert a small sharp pointed thing in the little gap visible next to the middle leg. Apply just enough force to allow the middle leg to escape.. it will spring up a bit.. move the whole spring in the direction the middle leg is pointing, the cap jewel can then be removed. When installing, fit the cap jewel and bring back the spring into its original position. use your pointy tool to bring the spring far enough so that you can use another tool to push the middle leg down to the level of the groove. Release pressure so the spring can go back to its original position. The danger here is to move the spring too far back. The springs are made of thin metal and will not tolerate to much bending. Once bent they pretty useless, even if you bend it back into its approximate original shape they've lost their temper(springiness?!). Anilv

Hey Donnie I'm actually in the the most northern of the CAROLINAS, so it would be a hike to SF but appreciate the offer lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, let's set the record straight. Personally, I like buying Chinese tools mainly because these let me do hobby watchmaking with a smile and never worry about the price tag. But I'm the first to say that China is still 40 years behind in "Excellence Watchmaking" and tool making. Can we really compare Sea-Gull to to ETA? Compare <nothing> to haute-horlogerie? When I visited the HK fair last Sept, there were Swiss/German big tooling makers exposing their 1M+ rigs to China buyers, and all the best brands were proudly claiming to use European machines for their mass productions. I recently learned from newspapers that only now, in 2017, the Chinese industry managed to produce the special steel and machining for fine ball pens!

You got nothing to lose. Go for it!

Hi Cody, I'm in Northern California too. Welcome! Feel free to come by our San Francisco watch repair shop to say hi if you ever get the chance. BTW, I love those woodworking watch repair tools.

Waltham Watch had a Swiss subsidiary that survived the dissolution of the parent. From about 1954 they produced both wrist and pocket watches. I have a Swiss Waltham wristwatch from around that period, but I don't know any details about the pocket watches that were made while Waltham International was still a subsidiary. Cheers!

I know what you mean ...there are a lot of things that you don't need to spend a lot on and can even make yourself. Items like Douglas1701 made.

Hello Cody, I was remiss in not welcoming you here before now but like yourself I am a fellow learner and tinkerer. The hobby can take over if you don't watch out, in fact it can take over even if you do watch out. You have already started on some projects and will have had trials and tribulations (starting to sound like a horoscope) but generally get the tools you need only for what you want to work on, but I think you may have found that screwdrivers and tweezers have to be a decent quality. Cheers, Vic

whoops wrong book Electric watch repair manual

Thanks for the lead. I found a free pdf copy of "The Watch Repairer's Manual" Trying to hunt down "The Watchmakers Staking Tool "

Don't misinterpret what I meant. I said I'll have them "WHEN" I need them not "in case" I need them...Something like A staking tool set is indispensable as far as I understand if you plan on doing anything more than just tearing down and cleaning a watch. So it is a tool that "WILL" be needed if you plan on learning the trade. IMHO I think buying "Cheap Tools" is bad advice. If you buy cheap tools you will only need to get better tools later on, plus cheap tools will more likely produce inferior work ...When you decide to upgrade chances are you will not recover the money you spent on "Cheap" tools. On the other hand if you decide this is not for you and look to sell your quality tools you will find a ready buyer. In general I am a big fan of the right tool for the job. I suggest buying the best tools you can afford. Be patient and buy right. Anthony

for those just starting. its easy to buy tools you don't need, unless to start a tool collection;

Welcome CLS Vinn you must have one big cigar box..All I know is there is a tool for everything. Seems just when I think I'm good I need something else LOL Anthony

welcome to the forum. ;I used to work on tractors, but got tired of lifting those heavy wrenches. had various hobbys, but here is the best part about starting out watch repair, all the tools and several watches will fit in a cigar box. vinn

If I wasn't thoroughly enthralled, I am now! I love woodworking, but this is definitely a more focused venture. Looking for ward to learning all I can

Greetings!

Welcome CLS enjoy the forum.

Welcome to this friendly forum. Loads of info on here for you.

Aloha and Welcome Cody and Douglas , You're in the right place to share in our mutual interest .

Next phase done https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3gxp96WjCI