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True, at the other end of the line as it were, from the "Caledonian Cattle Market", up in Glasgow, you had a similarly massive cattle market, which presumably served to "export" cattle and meat to London and elsewhere via the once extensive railway network. https://canmore.org.uk/collection/1315615 The Gallowgate entrance today. This meat market and abattoir too has mostly been demolished, with the land mainly redeveloped into flats and office blocks. A lot of the old shops on the high street nearby, including a clock repairer I remember from my youth have gone, replaced with coffee shops and such like. Click -> here <- to explore Graham Square now, and note the Drover Bar (just behind you). This name refers to cattle drovers, the people who moved the cattle round Scotland over ancient drove roads (aka drovers roads). If you are interested in these, this is a good book to read -> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Drove-Roads-Scotland-R-B-Haldane/dp/1841586951 These old trade road through the remote hills are well worth exploring if you are fit enough and fancy a visit to Scotland (once the covid19 travel restrictions are lifted of course).

Cheers Andy, my supposition has been proved right then. Almost certainly my brother's watch was bought there as my mother was bought up in the Caledonian Road area, just around the corner, in the 'buildings' overlooking the Caledonian Cattle Market..... And how it is now, all that is left is the clock tower..

So have I and yes they did, this Georgian silver pocket watch was one detecting find about 30 years ago.....

So what is the question?

I put this 1973 Mercury together from NOS parts to match my Miata. What do you think?

Speaking of lost watches, today I was looking at this little treasure. A cylinder escapement pocket watch. When I say "little", it is fairly petite. The case (not the movement, the entire case) is a diminutive 33mm across and 39mm from stem to stern. Just slightly larger than the top joint of my thumb. Only the balance is jewelled, the dial is completely plain, and other than having Swiss Made inside, it gives no clues as to who made it. It arrived with 100 years of grime and a bad case of hair spring salad, but is now shining like a new pin. The photos don't do it justice, the contrast between the brass details and the gun metal case is very attractive. It winds and sets now, but still refuses to run consistently, however I do have the hairspring more or less back in order, and re-fitted to the balance cock. I have put it to one side for the time being as I'm starting to get tired, so I'll pick it back up later. It will make a very worthy member of the 404 club once it is ticking away.

Hi Guys piked this up on one of my rambles, Useful if you have the tool Bergeon jeweling tool.pdf

Either one will work temporarily, but DO NOT use but a single dot of this oil on the rotor. In watches too much oil is very bad. As soon as practical have the watch cleaned and the oil removed. This oil will jell over time and gum the works.

You can also use a tap that screws into the tube then pull on the tap. Or, better, a screw extractor: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_extractor

I would listen to clockboy, his is by far the easiest and simplest way of removing the remnants with out the the need for any specialist tools

Not sure how much you want to invest in this watch to get it running again, but here are some options available on the Bay.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/SWISS-MADE-HAND-WINDING-FHF-96-MOVEMENT-MENS-REFURBISHED-VINTAGE-WATCH-2321/402196800024?hash=item5da4cc2218:g:5RQAAOSwTUBeFg2m https://www.ebay.com/itm/FHF-96-NOS-Vintage-Swiss-Made-Watch-Movement-1265/182231399477?hash=item2a6dd67c35:g:KuEAAOSwnQhXo5jF https://www.ebay.com/itm/FHF-96-WE-NOS-Vintage-Swiss-Made-Watch-Movement-1270/272330899995?hash=item3f682fc21b:g:DJYAAOSw3xJXo5ww The first is likely to be a copy, but for the price, it may be worth it. The other 2 have good balances.

We have a section "projects and walk-throughs" for illustrating to others how to work on a specific mov't, it should be one of the most important forum resources. These should have least some comments about the critical steps or anything you find interesting. Please have a read there to get a better idea.

Yes, as in that wrong approach would not work. Linked above from AliX and I think you had located the original product already.

As Nucejoe said, There is always the possibility of using Glue, Stenkruz supply a U.V cured glue which is cured by ultraviolet light or sunlight. I have used this myself and had no problems with it.

The tubes I have changed I have twisted with a cutting broach (which grabs it) and they have just twisted out to the outside of the case.

There are many many types of case construction, when a metal mov.t ring is used there are two main types: One that uses tabs, these press down from mov.t to grooves on the case wall, going over cuts in the ring. All is secured before fitting the caseback. Another type uses no tabs, the screws only hold the ring to the mov.t. Sometime the ring has horizontal cuts near the top, which thin section is slightly bent up and a protruding section in the case back presses it down. This latter type is much like the plastic mov.t spacers used on cheap and even not so cheap watches, and by the recent Seiko 5 and divers. Case tabs aren't much flexible, and often have a permanent bend. A good source of material for this kind of items is a feeler gauge. Cousins UK.

The EB88XX service manual is here -> https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/2849_EB 8800etc.pdf Just to be clear, which part are you looking for?

I may have one, I'll take a look tomorrow. Does anybody know how this clutch works? Does the clutch rely on a sticky grease for its operation?

When you're new to watch repair is usually good to practice with something bigger like a pocket watch. Don't even worry about whether it runs are not just practice taking it apart and putting it back together lots of times. If you take the approach of learning as you go especially starting on smaller watch there is liable to be accidents.

My 1969 Bulova Snorkel Oceanographer "Devil Diver". It is on a vintage JB shark mesh. Got this about a year ago. Starting to show signs that it needs to be serviced. I'm putting together a Bulova 23 jewel for my father, when done, this one is on deck.

Thank you sir - wishing good health to you and to the rest of the WRT members, and to all of mankind.

Hi, are these photos appropriate? Regards Отправлено с моего HLK-AL00 через Tapatalk

So, tomorrow it's my daughter's birthday.... Did I manage to finish the SKULL watch with the ETA 6497?! YES, but it wasn't easy, there were some hurdles missing case clamps. - I ordered them seperately but in the end, I made them myself to be on time; case clamps failing to keep the movement in place. - That took a lot of time tinkering; the winding stem that broke in two while grinding it - Luckily, I could borrow one from another movement; the brass filler ring with poor tolerance, leaving too much space for movement within the case. - Which i solved with adhesive aluminum tape. see final photos below. A watch with a real Swiss movement for my daughter...

If you don't find the right GS The Bestfit number for this one is. MST 377 200/638F BESTFIT STEM MST 377 200/644F BESTFIT STEM It seems it the same stem for the most of theese in the movement family. Compatible CaseCaliber MST 308 MST 309 MST 312 MST 320 MST 321 MST 322 MST 323 MST 353 MST 355 MST 359 MST 360 MST 365 MST 368 MST 374 MST 375 MST 377 MST 379 MST 384 MST 385 MST 393 MST 394 MST 403 MST 404 And you could get them on ebay... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Winding-stem-Albero-di-carica-tige-NOS-MST-344-345-360-374-375-377-379-384-385/162039052101?hash=item25ba47b745:g:zigAAOSwL0NXEKhc

Yes, definitely rocker, not rocket. Anyway, no travel to Mars permitted during lock down!! GR catalogue lists the mainspring for this movement as 1.7 x 0.105 x 300 (GR4895). This is obsolete, and the nearest would be GR4894 which is 1.7 x 0.105 x 280. Ranfft spring recommendation is much thicker and you may run into trouble with that.

Using the magic power of the internet, here is the building next door, and yes, it too has Bravingtons on the signage. Sadly, like every other shop these days, it is now a MacDonalds/Pret/Starbucks etc. Click the link below to get a full view. https://www.google.com/maps/@51.5308053,-0.1220827,3a,75y,131.45h,93.33t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sO--wFeJNM_UxkLKqFE5rdw!2e0!7i16384!8i8192

Today I'm sporting a Denison cushion cased Rone Sportsmans 15 jewel with bags of character most probably from the late forties or early fifties. This had been lying for quite a while in the to-do pile, as I had assumed that since it was locked up solid and had a distinct rattle, it would have a broken balance. Fortunately this was not the case, and all it needed was a thorough clean and now it is ticking away quietly. It is sitting around +10 sec/day, all be it with a relatively low swing around 220 degrees (a slightly tired mainspring most likely) but a more healthy beat error of 0.6ms. The diminutive size of this Gents watch is quite a contrast with the recent trend for wrist mounted frying pans. I had no suitable strap for it so I had to improvise from one of the straps in the scrap pile.

Hi first thing to check is the pivots on the escape wheel you may have one or both broken hence hanging limp. Did we miss your introduction? also please post photos of the movement front and back and or the caliber number and makers mark in future questions as it helps us diagnose and find tech sheets, thank you cheers

no loose screws or mvt clamps in the mvt? "as soon as I pull out crown to “setup time mode” and do slightest move forward to set up time, watch starts working. " this is the important part but I lack the knowledge to determine what can cause this...

OK, it sounds like you have solved a problem with the rotor, whatever it was. Now it should wind up efficiently when you wear it or running on the winder. Did you take a picture when you had the rotor off? It is normal for the crown to be harder to turn in one direction than the other. The crown only winds the mainspring in one direction. The other direction is a ratchet, like pedalling backwards on a bicycle. Why the watch should respond to you changing from winding mode to setting mode I don't know, unless there is too much friction in the motion works, which you temporarily alleviate by moving the hands. Also, if a balance is out of beat they can be reluctant to start swinging, so that might be a factor, and this S-05 movement has a twin balance, so that is extra-complicated. I would need to see it first-hand to have a chance of understanding how they interact. It sounds like it needs at least a clean and fresh lubrication. If it is still under warranty, keep badgering the shop or manufacturer for repair or replacement.

Hi and welcome to the forum. In the USA you have Ofrei as mentioned Esslingers and Jules Borel major suppliers cheers.

Have you looked on Ofrei? From Cousins UK normally takes about 10 days registered.

Welcome to WRT forum.