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about the day-date sync:

Acrylic crystals are a compression fit. The case should have a step which the crystal fits inside. If it has been glued in that's probably because it is too small. You should ideally buy an acrylic crystal which is 0.2mm bigger than the diameter of the opening in the case. You will then either need a press or a claw tool to flex the crystal to fit it. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/round-glasses-superior Sometimes it is difficult to find the right size and so crystals do get glued in. GS hypo cement is the right thing for this https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/gs-hypo-cement I'm not 100% sure that this would be a low dome as OldHippy says. That would be a Sternkreuz type N rather than M. Low dome type N will project more out of the case than a slightly domed type M. If you remove the old one and post a picture of the edge then we can advise.

Stand by for more yelling:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

if it came off without damage or too much strain, it should snap on with the crystal press. check your press set up for "alignment".

How did you remove the caseback? If you used a case-back knife and it came off without unusual circumstances, please continue: First take a close look at the caseback and the watchcase and see if there is anything obstructing placement. You will certainly need that crystal press, and choose a die that fits just over the crystal, but doesn't overlap onto the watch case or especially the lugs--it should sit just around the crystal on the bezel. Place the watch with caseback in position onto the platform. A piece of cloth or paper towel can be placed between the crystal bezel (which is facing up) and the crystal press die to protect it (mine are aluminum, some are nylon). Micro-adjust things so that the die and the bezel are just right and the caseback is lined up with the watch case. Apply gentle, then increasing pressure until you hear or feel the caseback pop in place. J

agree with Marc, very sturdy watches....I have a couple of vintage ones as i don't like the plastic spacer rings but that is a personal taste. Great watch.

It will be acrylic.

I'm not sure how you are manipulating your hairspring, but I suggest that you remove the hairspring from the balance and attach the hairspring to the balance cock, which I have suggested already. Make sure the hairspring sits within the index pins, and that the collet is centered on the upper jewel.Take photos.

very nice watch indeed,....if you want I can have a look in my crystals stock for the correct crystal if you send me the size. As for the auction, if they are misdescribed, you can return them and get your money back.

Doubtless from the FHF stable, similar to this, http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&FHF_002_10_5 although I expect an 8.75 ligne (19.5mm) rather than 10.5 ligne (23mm) You will be wanting a sternkreuz m crystal... https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/domed-slightly-sternkreuz-m, and Hirsch sell a nice range of open ended straps Sadly once finished, these have little commercial value, but make really nice and unusual presents

If you cant find any ID under the balance, remove the movement from the case, take the hands off and remove the dial and see if there's any ID there, if not take a good picture of the keyless work and post it here as many old watches can be I d that way, the bestfit catalog should have the info and I know clockboy on here has a copy and should be able to help you. I have said many times on the forum these old ID books are a wealth of info, keep your eyes open as these old books come up on ebay. Every thing that wis1971 has said about this watch is correct.

I see, just zoomed in, new crown time.

Mickey. From the picture the thread tube has broken off the main crown. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is a link to the Seiko Divers Reference that explains the Seiko divers through the years . https://archives.makedostudio.com/seiko-divers/index.html The 6309 is older then the 7002 and the 7S26 and there are also differences in the depth ratings of the different calibers . I have a few 6309's including the 7290 and the turtles which are the vintage 7040 , and 7049 . I also have 2 new Seiko Prosper 6309 Turtle re-issue divers . In my opinion the vintage 6309's are just a better built , tested , workhorse caliber . You can still get many parts of the 6309 because Seiko also made sport and dress watches in this caliber . I think the gears are a little more heavy duty . I had mentioned earlier that the 6309 didn't have plastic gears , but I just serviced one last night and was reminded that some of the date wheels were in fact , plastic . Some of those parts were also made in metal so I changed out the plastic with metal gears I had in my stash . I have bought many divers from a few reputable sellers in the Philippines and found that the quality of the work and the customer service from these particular sellers was outstanding . I have also bought 6309 watches , not necessarily divers , from India just for the parts in these watches because the costs of the watches were inexpensive . I have also seen some not so good craftsmanship in these watches ,...but I just needed the parts . As I stated earlier , these are my personal opinions .

A bit of vintage Russian for me this evening.... Poljot De Luxe 29 jewel auto. Featuring the lovely Poljot 2415 "Orbita" movement, the thinnest auto movement of its day apart from the micro rotors. I just finished a full strip down service on this today and am giving it a little test drive. I will probably post the full walk through shortly.

Green Dude....? Blue Dude.... ? either way it's a very handsome Dude indeed, and it's great that you have got it back up and running. They are actually very good but somewhat under rated watches with a very distinct character all of their own. Nice result.

I forgot to include two other documents that may also be helpful. Remove a Broken Screw.pdf Remove_Broken_and_Rusty_Screws.pdf

There's a lot of stuff out there on removing stubborn screws. Depending on the movement and the screw's location I've used Liquid Wrench(tm) and also Kroil(tm) penetrating oil. Under certain conditions alum will work but you have to be careful. It goes without saying that you strip down the movement as far as possible and then make a determination whether these approaches will be safe. Attached is a PDF with some more ideas. Hope this helps. Broken_and_Rusted_Screws.pdf

I think it needs a bit of tightening. The figures on the timing machine looked good, and after wearing it for half a day, the second hand was where it should be, but I'd lost 2 minutes from the minute hand.

The back cover also says its 9 ct gold its a pretty typical ladies watch of the 1920's but you should be able to date it from the hallmark. The movement is I would guess a FHF movement, it looks in quite good nick from the photos and would probably do with a crystal change anyway as that one looks to have yellowed with age. It is a good quality watch that someone would love to have.

Hi Mike, I believe that on this models the canon pinion needs to be more on the loose side rather than too tight. When setting time they 'feel' like there's no friction in the canon pinion but it works fine. You may want to re-assemble it as is and see how it works before proceeding to tighten it up. Anilv

First off I doubt that you have lost anything as the crown wheel screw only retains two items; the crown wheel and the little washer, so if you have both of those then all is present and correct. You do however have the crown wheel upside down. The crown wheel is mounted to a sliding plate which allows it to move into and out of engagement with the ratchet wheel. The barrel bridge has a sort of oval shaped raised pillar through which the crown wheel sliding plate protrudes. The crown wheel goes recess down so that the oval pillar is within the recess which thus limits the sideways sliding of the crown wheel. If you mount the crown wheel the other way up then you reduce the vertical engagement of the crown and ratchet wheel teeth which could well result in slipping when you wind the watch manually. Flip the crown wheel over and you should be good to go. The reference in the instructions to screwing the crown all the way in following setting the hands and before winding is simply to ensure that the keyless works have moved out of the setting position which doesn't otherwise happen without screwing the crown all the way in due to the lateral throw of the crown/stem decoupling set up. With the watch out of the case you can simply push the stem all the way in. Apologies for the wordy response but I don't seem to have a pic of the barrel bridge that doesn't already have the crown wheel installed.

Today was the 100th anniversary of Biggin Hill airport & also my birthday ( but not 100 ) so I wore my Spitfire anniversary watch

Hi guys, Wearing a Citizen V2 today... this version has 23 jewels but it was also available with 21 or 25 jewels. Hacking but with Japanese only day-wheel. Quickset on date via the crown at the first stop. Still has its original 'C' crown. 002xxx serial number puts the production date in Feb 1970. Citizen Autos from the 70s-80s are not really appreciated enough IMO..the ubiquitous 82xx series is as common as chips and Citizen's weird styling during the 80s do not attract as many admirers as the Seiko models from the same period. The eagle series are just too odd. Nonetheless the earlier models have decent enough styling and the movements are well constructed. I particularly like the 'Crystal Seven' and 'V2" series. Here's some pics....replacement crystal, dial a bit discolored around the edges of the upper half. The current strap is 'cheap' (sellers pic).. Original crown, sides have been lightly polished. Movement is clean. Caseback Happy Monday! Anil

Today I'm wearing my , " nobody likes this watch but me " watch . I've shown the sellers pics to a few people with less then enthusiastic responses . Oh well ,...I like it . I cleaned the case , serviced the movement , and installed a new and very comfortable watch band yesterday . Here's my kinda thin vintage Enicar handwind......