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Hello Jeremy Let me know if you can follow this. I hope this helps. Here are some images of a similar movement that wuill help provide more visual guidance: JC

Today is a somewhat shabby Girard Perregaux manual winder with sub seconds, which is my latest favorite look. The movement is an adjusted caliber 03BE. Most parts are exchangeable with the AS1130, which is great. This one is a strong runner and I did replace the mainspring, but other than that it was a bargain at just over 20 dollars. There's a lot of examples of these selling from South America (Argentina in particular) but they usually are quite expensive. J

Nice job J

Very well explained noirrac1j .. often it is better to use a video camera and film everything. It is always easier to do the reassembly afterwards. I already learned it at my own expense

You did it already? That's fantastic! I will suggest for next time never, ever remove or install a spring without first placing cling/saran wrap onto it to hold in place--no matter how nice it looks! It looks great and kudos to you for perseverance! J

Thank you soo much noirrac1j. I finished it. Had some trouble with the spring shooting across the room. Found it about half an hour later with a giant magnet. Used peg wood to make sure it didn't fly off the next go around. You rock! could not have done it with out the detailed photos. Here it is complete.

Nicely done JC. Was wondering how you were going to pull it off. Ron

That's when you know your doctor is getting paid by the hour ha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You must be thinking of that fancy SOCIALIST healthcare. Here in Callie-fornia the doctor still uses an inflatable cuff and a wall clock. No kidding.

So shimming is fine but remember there's more to it then getting end shake. Everything has to be in the correct place. Then there are published numbers but you're dealing with an ancient pocket watch so the numbers kinda fly out the window. In the case of Rolex typically they want a balance end shake of .020- .030mm. If you're in a obsessed student in school the first link comments about .01mm which is way too little end shake. But I'm giving you the link because it talks about what you need to be looking at things from the side view. Second link is similar to the first. Go to page 315 the escapement. So here you get a little different end shake numbers and comments about what you should be looking for. So I would continue with shimming just so we can see what happens. But just remember you might end up with the balance wheel not exactly where it's supposed to be because the pivots are too long for this particular watch. Then shortening them would be preferred option. If it's a very tiny amount you can do one end but if it's a lot then do both ends. http://raulhorology.com/2012/10/setting-up-the-escapement-eta-6498-end-shakes-divisions/ http://www.mybulova.com/sites/default/files/file/Joseph Bulova School of Watch Making - Repair.pdf

Jeremy, Yes I can help you get the calendar together but it's already past midnight here in Brooklyn. I'll give you my directions tomorrow. I don't have pictures of the BFG 856, but have plenty of the 866 which is similar. More to come.... J

I don't know if it is the right place... To the moderators, just move this topic at the right place please but all is in the title . TM9-1575.pdf

Thanks Wiley...ha ha ha!

JC, you have the patience of a saint!

Try this: http://s000.tinyupload.com/?file_id=38341172978320899943

Epoxy would be my choice too. I would let it cure fully, and then let it air out for at least a week or 2 to make sure all the gases have evaporated. With soldering, I'be afraid that the expansion of the base metal would cause the enamel to crack.

As Wiley Dave suggests , take photos as you dissemble your watches . You can never take too many . On more then one occasion I was glad I took photos and have used them for reference as needed , or when someone else comes up with a question about the same movement or procedure it's good to have them handy to share . Also as a suggestion , I sometimes use ice cube trays to place the part along with their particular screws . And then it's easy to see the order that I disassembled the watch . I will even take a photo of the parts and screws in the trays so I know which parts go with which screws after I clean them .

I'm pretty good at soldering if you don't think it would hurt the enamel I would try it. Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

As Oldhippy said, shellack..... or soledering tin.

Welcome to WRT. Hope this helps: http://ihc185.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/5146029761/m/3483918277 BERGEON AUTOMATIC_Oiler.pdf

@RyMoeller Since electronics are also in my hobby spectrum, I knew these tweezers are anti-static & anti-magnetic Stainless Steel. They don't come with a watch-brand printed on them, perhaps hence the cheap price? IMHO, they work great ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6pcs-ESD-Anti-Static-Stainless-Steel-Pointed-Tweezers-for-Repair-Tool-/272088601890?hash=item3f59be9522 ESD-11 is, together to my brass tweezers, the workhorse.

^ I forgot that you can't use the word c.o.a.r.s.e.

yeeeee

Russian Belarus ELEKTRONIKA watch. Doctor, medical. Pulsemeter. Chronograph This one was a little funny? Not sure it's relible?

Love my new Dumont Titanium tweezers? So light. And not that sensitive for bending. Can ping a few screws if you press to hard on them. But once you master that i no problem: Great for working quartz and the don't get magnetic. Bought a 5 and a 2. Dressed the 5 sharp tip a little as it was like a needle

I dress mine every week especially the gripping surfaces I grip a file between the ends and gently move the file this gives the tweezers more grip. Check this video its very informative.

Good point! That makes me think, I could be a smart alec and give him one without a second hand. I don't think they include seconds in T.O.D. records do they...wouldn't really convey a vote of confidence tho Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More accurate definitely. But will also take long. Most cases now a days the patient will have a pulse-ox on that will read pulse and you would just read the screen so accuracy isn't really needed, primarily because he likely won't ever actually check and count a pulse. The only time he would be checking a pulse manually, will be in emergent situations. In which case you likely need the fastest way to asses pulse which would be base 10. The only other time he will be checking pulses would be in extremities to just check for the presence of a pulse rather than the rate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

makes perfect sense, so would a 30 be a little more accurate/precise than the 10?

Pretty much you count 10/30 beats of the heart and whatever the number on the pulse tach nearest the second hand is the pulse. So on the base 30 watch that I posted I would count 30 beats, and say the second hand was pointing at the 5 o'clock marker. That would make the pulse 72 bpm. Does that make sense? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To what does base 10 and base 30 mean? I thought maybe it referred to the math being based on 10 but I can't see how that works for the base 30 watch shown above

Thanks Douglas I'm checking the soviets out now

My cousin is a gunsmith. He uses all kinds of small tweezers; there's lots of small parts in a gun. I was was telling him about having problems with watch springs flying across the room and he said, "You too!?"

Vich, I was impressed with the watchmaker's skill and obvious experience. Apparently some of the other forum members were not. I am anxiously awaiting their videos covering the same repair procedure. david

Doctors watches are banned in hospitals in the UK for fear of them carrying germs.

If You place the thumb on the balance cock over the balance and push just really slightly then the balance should not stop spinning. On the other hand one should not hear loud gongs if tilting from one side to another. I would measure 10 or 20 layers of foil then devide by number to get more accurate thickness.

The movement was acquired from a car boot sale in a poor state for £10. I do have a couple of other 7009A movements and 1 being in good condition but I lost the day jumper spring when servicing! So I will exchange the spring from this movement (and be more careful) Also the rotar is very good so I'm very happy with the purchase. Tony Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

For a ' fake ' , she's pretty .. I only have a fake and it's a chinese Rolex.. Automatic and runs great..

Today I went with a what I consider to be a nice 1965 Omega Seamaster Cosmic, I have always particularly liked this watch.