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We just had our end of year wind up for 2016 (yes I know its already 2017) for the Master Clock and Watch Makers of Western Australia Inc and at that was announced the 3 winners of a $1000 scholarship which can be used to pay this years fees, or buy tools of which I was one of the winners. Looks like I will be getting myself a nice workbench and good light and a few more tools soon which will set me in good stead for my second year studying watch and clock repair.

Over the Christmas period I went to order a Bergeon 6400 crystal lift £65 ish from Cousins but it said out of stock till mid Febuary, a few day ago I checked again and it said out of stock till March. As I need one for a particular watch I thought I'd get the cheap Indian version ( under £15 ) , expecting it to be a bit rough & tacky I thought I would use it this one time resell it on ebay and buy a proper one later on, When it arrived I was quite surprised how good it was, the fingers are well machined and the finish is good, I think I'll stick with this one.

did someone say pierce?.. y pierce todo list! plus the other complete ones awaiting the queue!

Check out a site called crystaltimes. They have sapphire replacement crystals for different models . Other then that you could buy normal sapphire crystal from cousinsuk in the right size and thickness.

I think with citizen as with seiko you need to quote the case numbers on the back of the case.

Hi guys, just back from the pub and tucking into a nice mince pie after a few pints of Guiness! Mmmmmmm!

Step 1 - Set up Roller Table Remover tool Step 2. - Remove Hairspring Step3 - Place Roller Table with Balance onto tool Step 4 - Tighten tool onto Balance staff and align Stake over pivot (critical not to damage pivot) Step 5 - TAP out stake and balance leaving Roller Table behind Step 6 - Place Roller Table into Combination tool and heat to loosen old broken jewel in old shellac. Step 7 - Clean Roller/Impulse Jewel hole in Table Step 8 - Using Vigorous Roller Jewel Gauge, measure size of palate fork opening (was 0.46) Step 9 - Measure Gauge (just in case) Step 10 - Order Jewel (or find) More to follow........ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Having worked with beginners and their watches I sometimes think a better approach would be to let you work on great grandpa's family prized heirloom watch. More than likely are going to destroy it you'll remember that for a long time. I can strangely enough remember all the bad things I did when I started watch repair. I can still hear a jewel cracking the pivot wasn't where it was supposed to be it was a really really pretty jewel in a pocket watch. So start off with a junk watch even a partial watch. Practice taking it apart and putting it back together practice a lot look at what you're doing see if you break anything don't worry if you break something we all did. I can remember being in watch repair school we were given partial 16 size watches to practice with. They were partials because the balance was removed and they were actually a timing mechanisms there's no main spring on these. The balance wheel doesn't get put on the watch until much later on when we can safely take the train apart without destroying it. So practice taking apart putting it back together getting bored asking the instructor what to do next. He suggests do it as fast as you can. So several broken pivots later and I still remember the lesson. Everyone breaks things when they start. So another option break something that you could replace. It's quite a pleasure when the watch you took apart comes back together and runs. So what makes a really good training watch movement for newbies is something big and something that we don't care if you destroy. So a 6947 Swiss pocket watch cloned by the Chinese they show up on eBay regularly. So big easy to work on if you destroy up by another one off eBay. Then link below disassembly reassembly visually can see what you're doing. Notice there is a variation in the number 6497-1 6497-2 Basically the same except frequency first runs at 18,000 beats per hour the second at 21,000. For training purposes that are both the same I wouldn't recommend taking the mainspring barrel apart. Also don't play with the balance jewels yet especially if the Chinese they skip to step and we should probably go over that before you do that it's not really something you need now in a way definitely not for pocket watches. Also attached is the tech guide and manufacturing information sheet. Both of them together have a lot of technical information. http://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html ETA 6497-2 Manufacturing Information.pdf ETA 6497-2 Technical Communication.pdf

One of my neighbours recently gave me his wife's watch to look at, he just said ''it's not working do you think you could do anything with it ?''. It's a tiny Seiko ladies watch, I took out the movement and found a broken click spring, nothing remarkable about that except it must be the smallest click spring I've ever seen ! barely visible with the naked eye , Cousins even had one ! ( £1.50 ) Watch now working Just thought I'd post it.

This will be more of a stumble-through than a walkthrough, since it's my first watch disassembly (and hopefully reassembly). I plan to do it as a series by replying to this post, so I can get feedback and help as I go (if anybody is interested). I hope that's OK (it will be slow going). I couldn't find any walkthroughs of a Venus 170, so at least I'll contribute some pictures with what I learned along the way. The watch: Purchased from goodwill online. Broken/yellowed crystal, hands bent, corrosion on the case and chrono buttons, dial very marred. Some power in it, as pressing the button moved the chrono second hand until it bumped against the main minute hand, which was bent. Main second hand bent to the dial as well. I did not wind the crown. Balance oscillates. Watch arrived with the back off. Crystal removed with tweezers, and hands removed with the movement still in the case so I wouldn't damage them by fumbling around. Once I had the case screws out I was expecting a movement ring, but there was none. I figured out the case has a bezel and the movement comes out the front. Couldn't find my bench knife but the bezel came off easy with some pressure from a screwdriver at a gap near the 2oc lug. Once the movement was out I was expecting dial screws on the side, but there were none, so I had to learn about dog screws and figured out their locations by studying the backs of cal. 170 dials for sale on ebay. Note the chrono bridge looks unlike any other pictures of a 170 I've found online (including the one other Empire 170 I found), and it's not stamped. Venus logo is not on the balance, but on the other side of the movement (see attached). Perhaps this will help date the movement? Here are the results of these first steps with additional pics attached.

Hi I managed to pick up very cheaply a Bergeon 2229 Escapement Tester, not working and in need of a bit of tlc. I'm completely stumped by the mess the spring is in - not sure what to call it, it's like a large hairspring. I think I know its purpose, it provides the tension to return the lower wheel to its starting position, which in turn moves the hand on the dial. As you can see though it is in a complete mess, well beyond my limited hairspring manipulation abilities. Does anyone know where I could get a replacement spring? As I said it's very much like a hairspring, but bigger - thickness is .03mm, height is 0.26mm. Alternatively is there anyone/where I could send the spring to for fixing? It would be a pity not to be able to fix it. Thanks Stephen

You might have a look at spare parts for aneroid barometers as they use a similar spring on the pointer. However, clock hair spring may be your best bet. I have a few knocking around, if you can estimate what the overall diameter of the spring should be I can have a look and see if I have got anything that you can try. As it is essentially just a return spring I doubt that the other measurements are that critical.

Very interesting (and I also really like the use of the zippo lighter!)

You could treat it as hairspring manipulation practice, or ask these guys http://www.britishprecisionsprings.co.uk/ S

Jealous But at least I have my new motor now

Excellent write up as always jd. How much play should there be between the pallet fork and the jewel? Could you measure the broken bit you removed from the roller table? Love the digital mike...so much more finesse than the calipers. Wife is going to Mexico next week and Xmas is done with so I look forward to my balance staff project. Your Posts have me chomping at the bit lol Ron

Ok, here are some pictures of the lathes i use at the moment! The lathe I use the most, Boley/Leinen Reform A sturdy Boley used mainly for lapping details on watch cases For bigger objects I use my Boley Prec.2 Currently under resoration, a Wolf / Jahn 8mm lathe with a whooping 493mm bed - intended to treplace my Boley for lapping jobs etc. And finally a Harrison M250 - used for making parts, jiggs etc. for the lathes etc.

Thessler, The Jacot tool is essentially a dead center lathe. The off center looking part (center) on your lathe is actually aligned with the groove in the drum. One end of the staff (the pivot) goes in the center and the other end rests in the groove in the drum. The Jacot tool in your picture is missing the drive pulley assembly that is on some Jacot tools. The drive pulley assembly should rotate around the dead center and generally has two drive pins sticking out of the pulley. The drive pins will engage the balance wheel (if it is attached) and turn the staff. The pivot to be burnished rests in the appropriate groove so the burnishing file can be run over the pivot. If the part to be burnished does not have a wheel attached to it, then driving dogs (which are shaped like fish) are attached to the shaft. The pulley is generally powered with a bow that is strung with thin fishing line. A high quality Jacot lathe, such as a Steiner, is generally in an encased set and should come ready to run. If you go to the OTTO FREI site you can pull up a picture of a complete Jacot Tool Set. The tool you currently have needs the additional components in order to work. david

Yes, you are right... here is a similar one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-watchmakers-jacot-pivot-lathe-with-brass-frame-steampunk-instrument-/322344296852 but I've looked through all my books and don't see one in use. Is it possible that you use the bow directly on the wheel staff?

Hi jdrichard if the fork opening was 0.46 I just wondered what size jewel you would fit ? P.S. I like the zippo lighter working as a spirit lamp ! nice job

Ry, No, I've never turned pushers before; still working through setting up my first watchmaking lathe, but this felt like a slightly more achievable first project than a balance staff! The drive pulley has plently of index holes so I figured I'd be able to rig something up to cut the ring of indentations on the O/D, and I have a nickel plating kit. How hard can it be ? I've never seen NOS Pierce pushers, but I have come across 3 different types of them which are not interchangeable on the older watches. The Landeron I bought as a project from a retiring watchmaker who had bought all the parts for it but never finished it. Very jealous of your Pierce collection, but it explains why there are so few left on the market! I've also never seen suitable minute register hands, so I figure I'll be getting a standard hand and fitting an oversize tube. If you come across any, let me know! I have some plain silver Pierce dials which came with a box of bits, although I've never seen a watch with one of these fitted. The are flat, so would be for the earlier type cases. S

For anyone that's curious about what witschi timing machines are like the first link has demonstrations you can download. Seating kinda play with the buttons and see what things are supposed to look like. Then there's actually four generations of the watch expert. First three generations the case looks identical except color. Enhancements added to each generation improving things. Third generation has a backlit screen which hopefully makes it much easier to see. The second-generation screen is a really shiny and reflects everything like overhead lights. Fourth-generation the machine below is basically an entirely new machine. So first link demonstrations and the Witschi Training Course Which really is good for anyone with a timing machine. http://www.witschi.com/en/service/downloads/instruction-document.html http://www.witschi.com/en/group-of-devices/measurement-of-mechanical-watches/watch-expert/watch-expert.html

Excellent walk through. I can't do better than that

Have you turned your own pushers for these in the past? I've thought about doing that but was lucky enough to land a few NOS pushers a while back. I'll add that those Omegas are quite nice! Also the condition of the Landeron chronograph is fantastic. Will be a treat to get them up and running I think. Regarding the Pierce I pictured above- it's actually a project I'm working on for someone else- all the Pierces I've picked up were a real mess to begin with but this one was well cared for; unfortunately I've had more bad luck with this one than all the rest. I guess you can't judge a book by its cover. And for some shameless self promotion- here's Pierces I've finished thus far (excluding the one on the far right which needs a minute register hand): I have one from the 1940's with a black dial floating around here somewhere too- hopefully I can get to it this year.

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Is this some kind of truing tool ? Found it on a swedish auction site? And this Seitz press is it anything to buy? Could you buy the stakes for it? It's only the press on auction.

Be careful buying Seitz jewelling presses without stumps. At some point Seitz decided to change the size of the locating peg on the bottom of the stumps from 3mm to 4mm. You won't be able to fit the new stumps to the press without enlarging the hole in the base. The new pushers will fit as they have always been 4mm but they are expensive, as are the reamers for which you will also need to buy the spindle. These items seem to rarely turn up used unless with a press, however you may find stumps from a staking set will fit. I have a Japanese MKS staking set and the stumps are a perfect fit in my Seitz press (4mm base not the older 3mm). Favorite jewel press stumps also have 4mm pegs and so fit.

Whether this will work depends on the type of AC motor you are attempting to control. As it says in the ad, "Works with any universal AC/DC brush type motor, 15 amps and under" and "Will not work with brushless type motor or soft/slow start motors". You find universal motors in portable tools, blenders, hair driers and possibly your sewing machine. If the motor in your machine has a wound stator (i.e. not permanent magnets), and a segmented commutator rather than slip-rings, then it probably is a universal motor. If it is a capacitor-start motor then it won't work. This unit looks like a pulse-width modulated speed control, similar to a variable light control. However, it probably has protection on the MOSFET output to absorb the inductive kickback that usually occurs from a motor load. A light dimmer would not necessarily have such protection and could be destroyed with an inductive load.

Well I got my mince pies today all the way from england! I want to thank @atimegoneby for his generous gift on this Three Kings Day. Boy are these pies are great!I don't know why they don't have these here in the U.S. Truly a LUXURY!! Thank you! J

Hello, These mince pies are so good! I've eaten three already and gave one to my brother to try--he also thought a mince pie was some kind of meat-filled pastry. I've lived in urban settings my whole life, so there aren't many opportunities to have any fresh double cream....which I've also never had. I've been to England several times: usually London, and an excursion to Brighton and Manchester during which I somehow managed to enter a traffic circle against traffic. I went directly into a roundabout. I immediately realized my mistake and safely managed to escape a collision, but not before the police saw my move. They pulled me over and once I started speaking (pure NYC accent) he just looked at me incredulously and told me to be careful getting home, and that in the future I should let someone else drive. England is a fun place. J

Hello and welcome to the forum! It looks like this is a Venus chronograph175 based movement. This would make it manual winding movement, and there are a few things that could cause what you've described. If the watch offers a tactile resistance when winding, but unwinds on its own, it is probably the click spring. The click is supposed to hold the wound spring (and its power) in place. If the watch winds somewhat, but slips as it winds, then its either broken or its the mainspring arbor. There is a little hook at the end of the mainspring that attaches to a center arbor which is attached to the barrel if the little hook is worn, then there will be no full winding of the watch--but you should feel the slipping as you wind unwinds. Maybe a closer picture of the movement will show if its the click spring? J

Glad you are enjoying one of our traditions... but a mince pie without cream is like a watch without oil. And just like oil, you will get many opinions on the correct type to use, but if you ask me, it has to be either double or clotted and whilst the brandy is optional, the mince pie has to be fresh from the oven! Unless you have a friendly local dairy farmer, I believe that fresh double cream is not available in the US, and it's somewhat harder to post than mince pies. You need to get yourself over to England to enjoy your next mince pies in the approved manner :-) While you are here, give the steak a miss, for some reason you guys are way better at that than we are.

The truing calipers look quite large - maybe more suited to clocks (or maybe bicycle wheels) than watches. The next item is for drilling out staffs to fit a new pivot. See here http://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.php?118580-Escape-wheel-pivot-repair and you will note that there are some key bits missing. The jewelling press looks to be in good condition, but it's very rare to set sets of stakes second hand without the press. You can buy stakes new, but they are not cheap. https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/jewelling-tools-for-bergeon-kif-inca-seitz. I bought a used set including press for less than £100 about 18 months ago

some great projects going on Ry,.....I wish I would have the time for it....

For anyone who needs it, Witschi Switzerland was so kind to send me the complete user manual for the 1st generation Watch Expertmodel.

Had a good look through all the parts I have and If I'm going to get to 3, I'll be having to make up a chrono minute hand and a pusher, and also going back to Cousins for another pallet fork. I'll know more in a month or 3 when I've had time to take some things apart. By the way, loving the condition of that Pierce you have. I've been looking out for one of those 1950s ones in a steel case, but i'm very fussy about dial condition and price! S

I recently acquired this really nice Bulova Jet Clipper.... As I said , It was nice but needed a little TLC . It was advertised as running good , just cleaned and serviced . Also It came on a period Spiedel watchband and had a decent crystal . Unfortunately it would only run for a bit , and needed an inspection and service . It's a front loader , so after pulling off the crown and the top of the 2 piece stem , and the crystal , I got a better look at what I had . The dial is a beautiful scallop sea shell design that has a soft pearlesent sheen,...subtle on the pearlesent . The lume on the hands was starting to fall off , and all three hands had signs of rust present . The movement had some dirty lube in the stem area but the rest of the movement was in top shape . I proceeded to clean and service the movement and was pleased to see good results on my timegrapher . I removed the lume and the rust from the hands , cleaned and polished them , and relumed the hour and minute hand . I also sanded and polished the crystal , but it didn't take much to make it look like new . I like the little spade arrow on the short side of the second hand . I found a decent beads of rice bracelet in my stash and the watch was looking and running good . As good as it was looking to me , I wanted to up the ante . In my searches I had come across a vintage Spiedel Calendar watchband called Romunda by Spiedel . It is stainless steel and has leather looking links . The calendar has 7 faces that moves the 1st from Sunday to Saturday by rolling the calendar backwards or forward with 2 setting wheels . The calendar cost $10.95 when it was first introduced ,...I paid $25.00 ,....but had to have it for this watch . The lug width on the watch is 18mm , and the watchband is 19mm , so I had to do some body and fender work to make it fit . Also the band was too loose on my wrist so I had to remove 2 sets of links to fit me . That was fun . All in all , I am very pleased with the total look of the watch and band . I think it looks pretty darned spiffy . Like something from "Mad Men " .

Very Good , I am happy to see that you got everything working again . As for thoughts on why It was not working , I would guess that a pivot was binding or something was touching the hairspring or balance wheel . I have had this happen when I installed a balance and did not notice that the outer coils of the hairspring got hung up on the center seconds wheel in a tight movement . Sorry I can't shed any light on the Key lock mystery . A member had mentioned that it looked like the part that held the day ring in . Is this part accounted for ? Maybe send a message to ETA where you got the picture and part number from and ask customer support .