Leaderboard

We all make mistakes but yours is a real cracker.

Well it's here and already working, I mentioned this on other thread, "stay or go" Borel. Now before the size matters debate starts, it actually feels comfy and pretty lightweight, I don't mind it being a bit obtrusive, (we will see about any comments, positive or negative!) Besides, without my reading glasses on, some watches are pretty hard to see. not crazy about strap, I suppose it takes some getting used to. I spared you all the "unboxing" video that some folks seem to think is essential, I think they are pretty boring, JMHO, don't hate me for it. I look forward to many years of service, by the time it needs any work, I should have learned enough about the 4R to tackle it myself. Enjoy....

Yes, but in today's active wear fashion -- everybody is an athlete -- those Invicta's save you time at the gym...wear them for a couple of hours and you already have 90% of your daily routine! No, those -- Invicta or not -- are not my type of watch! I have some invictas but the largest one is about 44 mm which is the largest that will fit my wrist comfortable.

Let's try a Bulova Accutron Space View 214 movement dated M1 , which converts to 1961...

Part 2 of the disassembly video:

I have sent more than one watch part into a low earth orbit. david

I am sure you are not the only one who has done mistakes during watchmaking, too much confidence (and many other things ) may lead to mistakes, bad part is mistakes in that work costs a lot

Boy i have missed quite a few good ones whilst ive been away Id like to say ive been on exotic holiday but alas just recovering from horrible virus which nearly killed me off Not one to sit on my rear end doing nothing i thought id start back with a good old Omega ( one of many to finished ). Newly finished and back to health ( like me ) 1943 - Omega 17.8 SC Early Waterproof Casing - All original The balance was almost beyond repair but after many hours work she back in business. Next one on my hit list is a 1966 Seamaster Cosmic

Greetings and Salutations! Great having another pro on board, amateurs like me need someone to smack 'em upside the head occasionally when we goof things up

There is a book about the unknown things that WD40 can fix, maybe the quick watch fix in there? Just as a thought would the oil I put on my motorcycle chain be better than WD40, it repels water and lubricates?

And the second part.

Welcome Brian, My next door neighbor for 12 years was a Glaswegian, we shared many rounds of golf and spirits together, I'm a single malt kinda guy. Look forward to your future posts, Sláinte!

Hello Brian, working on such high grade watches is always a delight. Loads of info on here for you. Tell me how do Americans get on with someone with a Scottish accent.

Welcome Brian, Lots of friendly guys here from all aspects of horology. Enjoy the forum.

Hello Brian its good to have you here I'm sure you'll be able to pass on some very useful knowledge.

Welcome to the forum Brian! That's a real nice introduction and we are sure glad you came on board! Enjoy the friendly atmosphere and the chat with a bit of humor while a lot of knowledge -- at all levels -- is being interchanged! Cheers, Bob

the table should come right off when the screw is removed, and the knob pulled out. Maybe you have corrosion or gunk under there...

Here's the method I used. I don't know if others have tried it. I dip my tweezers in acetone (nail polish remover). That leaves a microscopic film of acetone on the tweezers. That's enough to cause the tiny jewel to adhere to the outside of the tweezer. (I don't put the jewel BETWEEN the two blades of the tweezer.) while the stone is adhering to the outside of the tweezers, set the stone into its position. The acetone, meanwhile, is quickly evaporating, so by the time the jewel is in place, its adherence to the tweezer has diminished very much, and the jewel detaches easily from the tweezer. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Pip, my advice is a variation on the advice offered by the others, but may be more suitable for a beginner. It's more difficult to set the minute hand at twelve when the hour hand is already set there. So I advise that you turn the stem (with hands not yet set into place) slowly until the very moment that the date advances. Then place the hour hand at twelve. Then continue turning the stem until the hour hand points to 3 or 9. With the hour hand pointing as exactly as possible to 3 or 9, set the minute hand at twelve. The downside of this approach is that you may not have both hands PERFECTLY aligned at 12 o' clock. But the upside is that there is less risk of misaligning the hour hand toward the dial or up into the minute hand this way. Why 3 or 9, but not 6? Because in tilting the minute hand up or down to be perpendicular to its post, any inadvertent pressure on the hour hand is ,likely to be rotational along its long axis, rather then tipping it up or down, as might occur when the two hands are 180 degrees apart. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just one additional point Bob, a little goes a long way with Ronsonol, barely coating a clean cloth on guitars.

Forgive.me. I just saw Rogart's post on Seiko Cross References It was very helpful and gave me the info I was looking for. Thanks, again.

I think the one on the right is for picking the stake out of the box. That other one looks home made it doesn't match the others. About locking, have you unscrewed it all and cleaned it all out?

Olivier, the movement comes out through the front, but first you must remove the bezel. To do this start be carefully pressing a single sided razor blade into the joint between the bezel and body, sometimes there is a very shallow notch to allow a blade easier access. Once you have lifted it slightly with a razor blade, use a Stanley blade, that is slightly thicker, to lift it a bit further. Once that is done, finish off with a case knife to prise the bezel off completely. By doing it is stages, there is less chance of damaging the mating surfaces of the case and bezel.

Wearing a 'sleeper' for the last few days. This is a Seiko 6309 sports diver I got from 'the watchcollector'. I put in a 6306 movement which has 21jewels and hacks. It has lost 8 seconds over the last two days so I'm happy! Anil

Some people have money to burn and a taste in the gutter! I personally don't take Invictas too seriously...they are usually "fallen" Seiko's or Ronda's depending if you are going auto or quartz...If you go mechanics then it would be Chinese! I do own a few conservative models but because they've come my way...never looking for them. All in all, they seem to be the watch of the elite in these parts (certain circles) since it is "made" here in Florida.... Cheers, Bob PS. They use to come with Miyota movements but I guess they've changed some years ago...Maybe the 4R15 is cheaper!

Yes it is a lathe....... of sorts. It's actually called a "Watchmakers Turns" and is specifically for turning between centres. It looks like the basics are pretty much all there but you will need at the very least a split ferrule (or several of different sizes) and a bow, these together provide the means to turn the work piece. Additional runners are always handy too. One of the great things about a Turns is that the work can be removed for checking or measuring, and then put back without any loss of concentricity.They are however quite slow to use. If you have a copy of DeCarle he covers their use quite well.

The tool is called a DOUZIEME GAUGE. One douzieme=1/12 of a ligne. One ligne=2,258mm and 1/12 of one ligne (a douzieme) =.1881666mm. This is also equal to 1/144 of an inch. david

It's "effectively" a micrometer for measuring thickness and diameters. Here you go.

Cheers Mates.. My apologies for late answer, have been lots of other things todo in the weekend.... But it seem we have a winner!! Congrats oldhippy!!! Next time you are in the sothern of Norway, you must lett me know. That is correct that have made a watch cleaning machine for as little as possibel. First I tok those two apart, and cut them like this: Then I made this to hook up the basket, but I used a 5 mm thread rod insted the original rod. Just some modifications on the drill stand, and fasten it to an wooden plate: And then just mount the rest: Live action: MOV_0042.mp4 I washed all the parts for my Antima in this during the weekend, workt very good..... Thank again mates....

yes, shellak is the only glue you should use inside a watch. vinn

Wow, another mind blowing presentation. Incredible work! PS. Your tweezers look like they were made by a blacksmith!

Thank you for positive comments. Glass is on, all the zircona was glued onto silver setting strips with Araldite Crystal Clear. There is plenty of things not right which I would do differently, but I suppose that is the problem when no prototype to try things out first. Anyway, I learnt a lot doing this project, and I know some of the areas that need to be improved