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swordfish

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swordfish last won the day on October 18 2015

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About swordfish

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    Watch Enthusiast
  • Birthday 06/01/1949

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    Youngstown, Ohio, USA

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  1. My advice: Put a cheap compass close to the ticking watch. If the ticking watch makes the compass needle sway back and forth, the hairspring is definitely magnetized. If the compass needle does not sway, no firm conclusion can be made.
  2. If the crystal cannot be removed from the bezel mechanically, consider using acetone to dissolve the glue. --Eric
  3. I'm not sure, but this seems to be a watch whose movement is removed from the dial side. That involves (as Ishima implied) that first you must gently remove the bezel/crystal assembly from the case. It may be that the mechanism + dial + hands will come out through the dial side of the case. If so, you can remove hands and dial outside of the case, which is much easier and less hazardous than removing them while they are still in the case. Then comes the difficult work!
  4. Thanks for your suggestions, Ishima. I don't think that they solve the mystery, however. The winding stem, of course, is constrained both by the stem tube very close to the crown, and (quite distant to that) the close-fitting opening in the mechanism case. These so constrain the axis of the stem, that I don't see how any wiggle of the stem is possible. Similarly, when I was filing the snipped-off end of the threaded stem, I did not hold the stem in a pin vise. I used pliers (held at a right angle to the stem), carefully keeping the working end of the pliers far from the business end of th
  5. Gentleman, I'm having the devil's own time trying to replace an Epson VX43E quartz mechanism. I'm able (with grumbling and struggle) to put the mechanism in the case, apply the dial, and even re-attach the oh-so-persnickety hands. I'm able to trim the stem to the proper length and re-attach the crown. I'm able to re-insert the winding stem into place. I can set the time several hours forward or back without trouble. But if I advance the time several days (to get the date and day right), the winding stem breaks within the mechanism. This has happened to me several times. Of course the fragment
  6. My advice is to stick a new battery in and see what happens. If the watch runs well then, close the case and do nothing else. The apposite proverb here is "Better is the enemy of good enough."
  7. I recently conducted an experiment to compare the solubility of shellac in isopropyl alcohol and acetone. I put equal size flakes of shellac in small glass beakers containing equal volumes (about 20 ml) of solvent. The shellac did not at all dissolve in the isopropyl alcohol. It did slowly dissolve, albeit incompletely, in the acetone. The acetone was discolored by the shellac. I let the acetone evaporate over a few days. By then, the original flake, somewhat blander in color, was still present. However, the bottom of the glass beaker was coated with hard shellac. I needed to use acetone
  8. I tried pushing the stud from underneath the cock...no success. I even tried pushing with a pusher from my staking tool. I did NOT yet try putting the cock on the staking tool itself to give it a well directed whack using a hammer. I would have to remove the collet from the balance staff to do that. Since I'll eventually have to remove the collet from the staff anyhow, that's not out of the question. But it'll be cumbersome to have the cock on the staking tool table with the hairspring still attached. —Eric Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks, Bob, but my problem is the opposite of what you're addressing. My problem isn't getting the stud INTO the balance cock; I can't get the stud OUT of the cock. If the original design called for a retention screw to hold the stud in place, its absence, if anything, should make it easier to remove, not more difficult. Help! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. " Do you mean the arm with the red arrow?" Yes.
  11. Although I'm still a newbie, I think I know the answer to your question. I assume that what you're trying to adjust is the rate of the watch, that is, to make it run a little faster or a little slower. The screw indicated by the yellow arrow has nothing to do with that. The long arm extending radially from the balance shaft may be gently rotated around the axis of the balance shaft, Moving it clockwise will make the watch run faster; moving it counterclockwise will make the watch run slower. The smaller bar running perpendicular to the aforementioned arm should not be manipulated.
  12. One can set the second hand anywhere convenient. I too try very hard to have it pointing exactly at one of the second marks, not between them. That's less important with a mechanical watch, which usually advances 5 or more times per second, but important with a battery operated watch which advances only once per second. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. PROGRESS REPORT, SEPTEMBER 11, 2016 My watch is now running just as a dog walks on two legs: he doesn't do it well, but that he does it at all is remarkable. I inserted the new fourth wheel with no difficulty. I even found the wheel bridge screw I lost last week, and re-inserted it. (The replacement I had ordered hoping it would be the right size did not fit.) As you can hear and see in the attached video, the watch is running, but running quite irregularly. Notice, please, how eccentric the hairspring is relative to the balance staff, with most of it evident above the balance staff in the
  14. Here's the method I used. I don't know if others have tried it. I dip my tweezers in acetone (nail polish remover). That leaves a microscopic film of acetone on the tweezers. That's enough to cause the tiny jewel to adhere to the outside of the tweezer. (I don't put the jewel BETWEEN the two blades of the tweezer.) while the stone is adhering to the outside of the tweezers, set the stone into its position. The acetone, meanwhile, is quickly evaporating, so by the time the jewel is in place, its adherence to the tweezer has diminished very much, and the jewel detaches easily from the tweezer.
  15. Pip, my advice is a variation on the advice offered by the others, but may be more suitable for a beginner. It's more difficult to set the minute hand at twelve when the hour hand is already set there. So I advise that you turn the stem (with hands not yet set into place) slowly until the very moment that the date advances. Then place the hour hand at twelve. Then continue turning the stem until the hour hand points to 3 or 9. With the hour hand pointing as exactly as possible to 3 or 9, set the minute hand at twelve. The downside of this approach is that you may not have both hands PERF
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