Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

You bring up a good point on buying used mainspring winders. I have a few different types that I use, but mostly I use my old K&F Robbin's Patent #125a winder. The big reason is that the three winding handles still have their hooks intact. Another, Watchcraft, I bought at an NAWCC Mart is missing the hook on the smaller handle/arbor. I, like you, didn't think to check it when I bought it. Consequently I've only used it once or twice, as invariably I need the smaller size.

Recently, my Robbin's style didn't have the right sized barrel for the V&C I'm working on, so I checked my other winders. Fortunately, was able to use the largest size of the Watchcraft Bracelet winders I have. Otherwise I may have been winding it in by hand as well.

Moral: When buying a used mainspring winder, closely inspect those hooks. Of course, an honest seller should let you know (if they know) of such material issues before you buy. Good luck.

 

Edited by MrRoundel
Posted

I feel all your pain, I've had trouble with these and I found out the hard way about checking for the hook on second hand winders. I'm expecting to see a tutorial pop up from  @jdrichard on how to knock one together soon :D (and although I'm joking I wouldn't be too surprised, there doesn't seem to be a lot that man can't manufacture!) 

  • Like 2
Posted
I feel all your pain, I've had trouble with these and I found out the hard way about checking for the hook on second hand winders. I'm expecting to see a tutorial pop up from  [mention=1704]jdrichard[/mention] on how to knock one together soon [emoji3] (and although I'm joking I wouldn't be too surprised, there doesn't seem to be a lot that man can't manufacture!) 

Very funny. I’ll prepare a video on how to replace the hooks on mainspring winders....if enough people want this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 1
Posted

Very funny. I’ll prepare a video on how to replace the hooks on mainspring winders....if enough people want this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I knew you wouldn’t let me down, haha! And although I *was* joking, yes please to the video. Didn’t know they could be replaced so will be interesting to me at least.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Posted


I knew you wouldn’t let me down, haha! And although I *was* joking, yes please to the video. Didn’t know they could be replaced so will be interesting to me at least.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So I had a quick look and with a lathe and some blue steel rods at about 1mm, it is possible to replace the stud on a spring winder.85e5142ae382b642ed0b47e5bb852521.jpg79158d29bdf593ff20afa9fcaffb0ede.jpgeb8bfaf302ebf1fff91c543f9b89464f.jpg9915594c31365a8710e79e3ca1132aa0.jpg538f4a415f430edfad9d0492d598618a.jpg8fba0b906f6c6bbe8e8a3969d709178d.jpgbbb50afcd0564c7d2fee78a05f642890.jpgI think you just punch out the old one and then grave the small piece of 1mm blues steel down to size with i minor 3 deg taper, then tap it into the opening. Easy Peasy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 2
Posted

You da’real mvp! (I’m English so I probably have the context all wrong but thought it better than typing “Good show old bean!”)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
Has anyone used the adjustable LG winder? They seem to be quite reasonably priced. Not sure what size range they cover, though. Thanks.

Picture


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi Fireftr 45

I too am suffering  exactly the same frustration on a Seiko 7S26C movement. I split the barrel only to find the same sort of mess Mark shows in his video with the added non bonus of a broken spring end. I also bought a second hand set of winders only to find out that they were too worn to be useful. Buyer beware when you cannot examine first! I checked Cousins and sure enough no springs to be had here. I decided to take Old Hippys advice and order a barrel complete prt. no. 0201075. On Cousins web site it states Seiko Barrel complete Hattori part no. 201.083 available May 2nd 2019. I will order this and let you know if it fits the bill.

Hope this helps.

Posted

Note that in Japanese movements the springs often wind the opposite way to the 'standard' Swiss movements. You can see in Mark's video above it has a RH bend. Therefore the standard spring winders don't work - the nib faces the wrong way and won't grab the spring. 

I'm working on a Citizen with a 10mm barrel, and had to use a 9mm winder bit to wind the spring the wrong way, then transfer the spring to the 10 mm bit to reverse it before putting in the barrel. 

Posted
Unfortunately, the Bergeon is for ETA movements. The movement I have is from the USA. Thanks for trying!
Should do the job the same, far as I'm aware. Provided the dimensions are correct.

Sent from my Redmi 4X using Tapatalk

Posted

Bergeon used to offer their old standard winders, and then offered the "Nivaflex" series with recessed eccentric hooks which were a lot nicer to use and easier on the spring. From what I remember the arbor diameter didn't change (or change much) between the two. I only have a regular set in front of me but a number 8 has an outside diameter of 11.90mm and an arbor of 4. Seems about right for older springs. The next size up measures 13mm outside also with a 4mm arbor. The new Nivaflex winders (still available) from Bergeon should have similar arbor diameters. The ETA series will undoubtedly have proportionally smaller arbor diameters which would be a pain with older springs meant for larger arbored watches.

There's always older K&D and Marshall and various other makes of winders on Ebay which are well suited to older American watches and almost useless on more modern Swiss stuff.

Posted
4 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

Bergeon used to offer their old standard winders, and then offered the "Nivaflex" series with recessed eccentric hooks which were a lot nicer to use and easier on the spring. From what I remember the arbor diameter didn't change (or change much) between the two. I only have a regular set in front of me but a number 8 has an outside diameter of 11.90mm and an arbor of 4. Seems about right for older springs. The next size up measures 13mm outside also with a 4mm arbor. The new Nivaflex winders (still available) from Bergeon should have similar arbor diameters. The ETA series will undoubtedly have proportionally smaller arbor diameters which would be a pain with older springs meant for larger arbored watches.

There's always older K&D and Marshall and various other makes of winders on Ebay which are well suited to older American watches and almost useless on more modern Swiss stuff.

This is one of the many areas I'm not experienced or knowledgeable enough. I was going by the inside diameter of the Mainspring Barrel that I measured with a digital caliper at 12.0 mm. I do not know what the wall thickness of the Barrel is at the moment. The wrist watch is a 1930's Ingersoll Mickey Mouse. The Mainspring is not replaceable with a new one, as everyone probably knows, so I've cleaned it and now I thought I would try to reshape it some, for lack of better terms, before greasing it. The connection to the Barrel Arbor looks like someone else tried to use pliers to get it connected, but did not succeed.

Posted
3 hours ago, vinn3 said:

its hard to damage a main spring.   very often the main spring is put in the barel with the thumbs!  watches, not with clocks.

I wish that were true in my case, but I've broken the hole (rectangular slot) on one of the mainsprings from cold-working it too much. I've been trying the thumb method with some success, but I thought maybe the winder would do a better job to naturally get it done right.

Posted (edited)

Not to brag or anything... but my question about the arbors being too thick for some Mainsprings was featured in one of Marks videos.

:)

Bogdan

 

Edited by matabog
  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Well still no joy with Cousins on obtaining a barrel complete for a 7s26c Seiko. They now show availability 29th May.

Anyone know where I can get one from? Are the manufacturers trying to shut amateur horology down?

Really disappointing not being able to expedite a repair in a timely manner. I totally empathise with Fireftr45 I too am getting really frustrated.

I noticed that many ebayers are buying up watch tools and although they are not interested in using the tools they are interested in boosting the price. I was bidding on Platax tool after watching Marks vid as I have broken balance. The price went stupid £350 ish. Thing is no-one new if it was worn, had defects or would do the job. If there was another way or tool to replace balance staffs other than DK which are just as hard to obtain I for one would be interested.

Thanks to all.

 

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I love my brass tweezers and use them for 90% of my work. I like that brass is soft and does not scratch parts and it seems to grip parts better than stainless steel. And brass is also non-magnetic, which really helps when working on quartz movements. However, brass is a little too weak for jobs like pulling back yoke springs. So I thought of upgrading to bronze. But I can't seem to find curved bronze tweezers. And Cousins price for a pair of Bergeon straight bronze tweezers is around £45. A couple of months back I had the idea of swapping out the carbon fibre tips of my tweezers and putting in bronze tips. And that is what I did. I got a piece of 2.0mm bronze sheet from AliExpress and cut out 2 curved tips and replaced the carbon fibre tips. I'll probably thin down the tip further gradually to a point where it still has strength to draw back thick yoke springs. 
    • Ah, well that's a relief, though the parts document does list a 1520 which is a coupling clutch. This threw me for a while (it's a quiet day in the office) until I realised I couldn't see a listing for the reverser wheels. So, we're back to the mainspring should slip in the barrel. It can really only be one of three things (that I'm aware of) mainspring 'coned' and pressing slightly on the lid the kink, close to the  end of the spring, which puts a sort of a self lock grip on the spring and may not allow the spring to release enough there to allow slipping quantity of lubrication, either not enough, or too little Two of those require new mainsprings, which aren't readily available, though I may post a query about alternative mainspring sizes. The third, will more grease or less be required? The word breaking in breaking grease suggests more means more breaking?
    • The idler gear I'm referring too is the one between the 2 barrel wheels. These movements just rely on the spring slipping to prevent over winding.
    • Not sure how useful this might be, but a while back I bought some bamboo tweezers (multipack with a ridiculous amount of them in) and have been using them in place of pegwood. Seems to be working just fine
    • Ah, well there is the rub. I ordered a post and oscillating weight, but clicked on the wrong thing when adding the weight to the basket adding an automatic bridge. Ordered a weight, and it's somewhere in the ether after our customs and excise folks rejected it because of the documentation.  Yes, both springs inserted the same. "Is the idler gear ok", and here's why I posted to the newbie area: So, reading between the lines, and again correct me if I'm wrong here, the automatic winding mechanism will have an ideler gear, along with the reverse wheels, that prevents over-winding? There is nothing (that I'm aware of) between the crown pinion, crown wheel, and the ratchet wheels to prevent over-winding other than the mainsprings slipping in the barrels.  This is only the second automatic I've worked on. The other, a Vostok, had a very obvious mechanism.  I shall look at the automatic winding mechanism in a bit more detail when I've a bit more time. At the moment I'm taking a glance here now and then when work is dragging 😉 As ever, thank you for your help. Always appreciated.  
×
×
  • Create New...