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Everything posted by MrRoundel

  1. While it might not have made any difference here, I generally loosen both the crown wheel and the winding wheel screws while both are in place. If I need to, I can place a piece of pointed pegwood where the two wheels meet, in order to get good hold. I then remove them. Good luck on the watch.
  2. Since the crown looks like it's gone/removed, you'll probably have to coax the stem up with a screwdriver on the movement side threads while pressing the release button. Good luck.
  3. This is probably a great source. The AWCI is very much geared towards repair work, and has had some great fellows teaching over the years. Good luck. AWCI
  4. I'd be looking to see that the pallet has good "kick" when gently pushed to one side and the other with the balance removed. I'd also check the clearance between the hairspring and bottom of the balance cock. I would also try reversing the balance jewels between the cock and pillar plate. It's amazing how many times those get switched. Not by us, but perhaps any time over the many decades of service. Good luck.
  5. I concur, rogart63 is a jolly good fellow. He sent me parts for a movement a couple of years back. Saved my bacon.
  6. A lot of Walthams have a mechanism like that. It is a little sliding lever that actuates what they call the shipper. The lever sets into a narrow groove on the top side of the pillar-plate. I was unaware of the Hamilton using such a feature. Nice that you figured it out. Cheers.
  7. Interesting tool. Are there any other parts in the box? Are any hidden under the one marked "Mimo"? It just seems that something, or things, are missing, relative to the patent. I'd be interested to see the side view, and perhaps the other side of the "Mimo" part. Good job on tracking down some info on it. It looks like it might do well, providing it is complete. Cheers.
  8. Thanks, vinn3. Hmm...Unimat. I forgot about those. I actually do have an SL1000 that I won in a raffle a couple of years ago. I bought the 3-jaw chuck for it. I didn't think of it because I heard that it wasn't considered precise enough for most watch-work. Crystal work is probably not what they're referring to. So if the 3-jaw on the SL1000 would work, I might be able to do something. Still, I'm not sure of how to order a crystal of sufficient size and thickness to be of use. Oh, and the epoxy idea sounds like something I could work as well. That way I would just have to break those beads/bonds, remove the movement, and then soak the back to remove the epoxy.
  9. I just tried the fit of the PA370-10 as far as the OD holding the crystal snugly. It does. So the OD is good for the bezel, but the ID is too big for the case back. If the crystal held to the case-back, I think all would be good, as the snug fit would hold the crystal to the bezel well enough, methinks. Rather than trying to modify a blank, or find the exact crystal, I am considering UV gluing the crystal to the case back. Since it will still be able to be pressed out from the bezel/lug part, it might work. The hang-up will be at some point down the line when I have to service the movement again. However, I might be able to be sparing enough, but strong enough, with the glue to be able to break it free and clean it up with acetone at that point. Comments? Thanks again.
  10. As you can tell, vinn3, I have a lathe, but so far it's mostly been for decoration. I was visualizing the bezel-chuck, and was thinking it could be used by placing the crystal in the center, thereby using the bezel-chuck as a "jawed" chuck. My bad. I do know that the 3-jaw is probably a must for lathe work. I just haven't stepped up to buy one yet. Someday. Until then I guess I'm stuck taking $10 stabs in the near darkness until I get the right size. At least it's not a customer-owned watch. Thanks again. Cheers.
  11. Thanks, vin. I appreciate your advice. Yes, the crystals need to be the proper ID, OD, and really thickness, in order to work. Very temperamental sizing. And yes, that's all that holds the case together. The one I chose would probably have worked, but the ID was slightly large, and didn't allow a strong enough cinching against the back. I THINK it would have worked if the ID was a touch smaller. I may try the Wyler to see if it might work. I do have a lathe. What would I hold the crystal in while cutting? I have a bezel-chuck (Vintage WW style lathe.). Would that work? I don't have a three or four jaw. Thanks again. Cheers.
  12. I couldn't find it originally, but here is the image of the watch with the case apart. As I may have mentioned, it is a GP Amphibian. And as you can see, it has the square case back, which is unusual, but doesn't effect the crystal setup.
  13. Thanks. I may end up doing something like that after I try at least one more. I got so close with the first one. Getting it right the first time seems very difficult with these cases. I'll insert an image of a watch that has the same waterproof design case. it's a ladies Perregaux in the old "Mermaid". It is like the forties and early fifties SeaHawks, but smaller. Thanks again for your suggestion. Cheers. BTW: I found that a PA200 that is for a Wyler watch worked perfectly on this one. There's another GS PA crystal that is near the size I need, and is also said to be for a Wyler. I may end up trying that one. Maybe Wyler and GP were utilizing the same cases? Or maybe I was just lucky on the Mermaid?
  14. It's understandable to use affordable, but usable, screwdrivers on your own watches as you learn. Most to. But after you work on enough watches that have big scratches in their bridges/plates from slippage, you'll quickly understand why one wants screwdrivers with good tips, and of the right size. When I work on a watch, I probably use a minimum of 4-5 different sized screwdrivers. Plate screws get one size. Dial screws another. Winding wheels their own large size. Detent screw-often the same size as the dial screws. Pallet cock/bridge another. Hairspring stud usually one of the 3 smallest I have. In short the set of four that ajdo has compiled is probably a minimum start, IMO. Cheers.
  15. Greetings all. Again I find myself in the middle of a rather difficult search for a vintage watch crystal. This, despite it being a round crystal, that should have some GS number that works. This is the second time that I have tried so very hard to order the right crystal the first time and failed. Close, but no cigar. It's also the second time that it is with a Girard-Perregaux wrist-watch that is probably from the late-forties to early fifties. And again it is with the type of case that utilizes a bezel that cinches down over the crystal, which should be a snug fit around the case bottom. I believe that Benrus used this type case, as well as some others. I don't know if there's a way to do it, but it sure would be nice to start compiling a database that shows brands/types/sizes of cases along with their GS (or other brand) crystal. I realize that there are many types and sizes of vintage cases, but it would be a very convenient database. Perhaps like Dr. Ranfft's movement database? I'm sure it wasn't built in a day. I'm sure that I could add a few at this point. And if a lot of people add to it, it has the potential to save a lot of time and money for professionals and hobbyists alike. Make any practical sense to anyone? Many thanks.
  16. Good job. That was smart using that compass(?) for a "special wrench". I can't remember what I used. It might have been a junky set of tweezers. I'll remember the compass-tool. Bob Tascione has a nice animation of the workings of the stopworks. In it, you should be able to see the shape of the part you need. It's on youtube. Search his name and you'll find it. Good luck.
  17. It may have a two-piece barrel-arbor. That means that in order to remove it from the bridge, you must unscrew the sides of the arbor. That's what I had to do do on a Vacheron that I worked on recently. When oldhippy wakes up, he may tell you that the arbor has left-handed threads, so be careful, and don't proceed until you know. You can snap the square off the arbor. Sorry to say, but I have done it. If you indeed got as lucky as you think you did when you pulled the balance, it was probably because there was very little power left in the mainspring. All's well if it ends well. Good luck with the watch.
  18. Well, with body piercings, ear gauges, etc., being all the rage, it's natural that the world would gravitate towards old-style self-mutilation with such implements . My face is too precious , and my Mach (?) provides the easiest, smoothest shave ever. Preciousness is something it's hard to put a price on.
  19. That looks like a good size of screwdrivers to start with. However, on the other side from the hairspring stud screw, a larger, perhaps 2.00mm driver might come in handy for winding wheel screws. If you use your 1.40, just don't forget that the crown-wheel screw is likely "righty-loosey", "lefty-tighty", i.e., left-handed threads. Clockwise will remove. Years ago I bought a Bergeon set that runs from .50mm to 2.50mm, and have never been sorry. I generally use the 2.00mm for the crown-wheel and winding wheel screws, IIRC. Good luck.
  20. I just saw an auction for the same model watch that looks like the minute marks are gone on it as well. So I'm not the only one who had to resort to the acetone soak. It's really sad that it doesn't seem to be able to be removed safely, as it looks a lot better with the minute marks. Again, what was Wittnauer thinking? It may also be that people can't find the right crystal, and end up buying one that is slightly small so that requires the glue-in. It's not easy to find the crystal with the date magnifier in it. I ended up ordering one without the magnifier. It's a bit of a gamble, being that the watch still doesn't run. Cheers. No affilation. For example only.
  21. When I face a stubborn arbor/spring pairing, I use a collet-holding pin-vise, with the barrel held on top of a piece of round pithwood with a hole in the center. Granted, the collet-holding vise may not be an easy get, but I suppose a large pin-vise would work just as well. With two-piece Swiss arbors, I have used a pointed piece of pegwood to keep the arbor centered as I manipulate it into the inner coil with the back end of brass tweezers. Good luck.
  22. You don't need to be a member to join the message board. If you go to NAWCC.org and go to the watch forums, you'll probably see him posting in the European pocket-watch forum. You might then be able to send him a personal message. Good luck.
  23. There's a relative of Audemars (Posts under that name.) who contributes regularly on the NAWCC message board. He seems like a nice guy. He might be able to help. Good luck.,
  24. I have a friend who is into restoring old vises. Apparently, the hobby has a pretty big following. I can understand it. Nice job on the Boley. I like the blue with the white lettering.
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