Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by MrRoundel

  1. I don't see anything under the bridge/bridle(?) that would cause stoppage. The screws are both countersunk, and are sitting within their recesses completely. The rotor itself is a bit sloppy, FWIW. DeCarle tells of how to reduce the size of the core by using a modified round file, etc. I don't know if I trust myself to do that one, but might have to resort to it to get rid of the play in the rotor. The watch had run without stopping for more than an hour so I decided to put the auto mechanism back on. As I lowered it onto the movement, I manipulated the exposed wheel under the auto-mechanism bridge while I go the mechanism itself to sit what seems like a bit more level. The screws are tight now and now stoppage yet. Time will tell if anything I messed with freed things up. I know that it's best to put the auto-wind stuff back on after casing the watch, but I really don't want to do that now that things seem to be sitting properly. I'll report back if it gives me any more grief. Thanks for your suggestions, Nucejoe. Cheers.
  2. Greetings all. I just serviced a Girard-Perregaux automatic movement. It seems to run fine, but ends up stopping for reasons unknown. It seems like it may have something to do with the center-wheel contacting the top of the barrel. If there is clearance, it is by very little. It seems to stop most often once the automatic mechanism is replaced. I'm wondering if by tightening the automatic mechanism down to the train-bridge, it's dropping that center-wheel to barrel clearance to nothing, thereby stopping the movement. Does anyone have experience with this ETA 1256 auto movement that can offer any ideas as to what the issues might be? What do you think would cause the barrel to be so close to the underneath of the center-wheel? Any help is appreciated. Many thanks in advance. Cheers.
  3. GS fitting instructions say not to exceed one-half GS size, which is two steps in their catalog. My list shows that if the bezel measures 31.4mm, you can go up to 31.7mm. Yours measures a GS size of 31.4~, which is GS #29 1/2. Skipping 29 3/4, you get to 30, which measures 31.7mm. Sounds like good bet to me. Others may know differently, but it looks good to me. Good luck.
  4. Are you getting your measurements from the case or old crystal? If the crystal is dropping to the bottom of the recess in the bezel, it's obviously too small. Not much I can figure to do to stretch it. In the GS crystals, I see that there is one shown for an Omega waterproof that is 31.70mm. It is a PA468, which is for a case that uses a reflector ring, not a tension ring. Fitting crystals to vintage pieces isn't easy sometimes. Good luck.
  5. The hole made the most sense once I realized that the other spot was a bit far from where most releases/detents would be. Good luck with the job.
  6. If not, is that a hole almost directly above where the arrow is? If so, that might be the release. I've seen little metal spring-tabs in such recesses.
  7. I'd still be going for the area I referred to. Sharpened pegwood works pretty well usually. That minimizes chances of slip damage.
  8. Thanks, Nucejoe. I did try heating a screwdriver tip. And yes, it did retain the heat for a touch longer, but not enough to make much difference. I felt my choices were destroy the rhodium reflector by scratching and prying, or do the acetone soak. Losing the minute lines is a shame, but that's life. But seriously, what was Wittnauer thinking when they designed such a case, using a plastic crystal that's nearly non-replaceable? Had I have known of this design, I would have left the scratched up crystal in the case. But I knew it would really look good with a new crystal. BTW, there's another of the same design for sale now on that auction site. The crystal on it is worse than mine was. It's terrible actually. I wouldn't be surprised if owner(s) over the years took it in for replacement, and found out that nobody wanted to do it. I don't think Wittnauer was around much longer after this watch was made. If they were becoming known for such lame designs, as far as servicing, I can see why the company went away. Thanks for all the help, folks. Cheers.
  9. Since your image is hosted at an outside service, I can't magnify the image, at least without signing up for their service or something. Based on what I might be seeing, I'd press that copper colored spot, to the right and down from the crown maybe 8mm or so, and pull on the crown. However, if pressing the spot doesn't look for feel springy, I wouldn't force it. I just can't see it clearly enough. Good luck.
  10. Well, I tried the heated needle trick for an hour or so, but maybe got through 4 minutes of crystal edge removal. If I had 2 full work days to do it, and wasn't occasionally skipping out of the groove and scratching the rhodium, I'd have continued with that. There was no getting it to spin towards removal, as it was well glued down. However, with the movement not cooperating with its resurrection, and the eons it might take to remove what was left behind of glue and plastic, I decided to go the nuclear option. What I couldn't tell, is how the rhodium reflector was held in. There was a very small space at the bottom that a razorblade might have fit it. However, with the way things (needles and screwdrivers) were scratching that rhodium, I decided that this too was a bad idea. So I broke out the acetone. I knew that acetone worked well with the plastic beads used for preserving fossils, FWIW. I figured that it would eventually break down the acrylic crystal and glue, so I gave it a long soak. Unfortunately, there were some stripes that were painted on. They added to the interesting look of the watch, so I was sorry to lose them. They had looked like they were actually recesses formed in the rhodium. That's what fooled me. Well, after that long soak, both the rhodium reflector and what was left of the crystal and glue came out nicely. I'm not happy about losing those white lines, but it really was ridiculous to have to melt the plastic away a millimeter at a time as each needle becomes a little softer with heat. If I had it to do over again, I would probably try to get a razor blade or Exacto under the reflector to see if it would pop out. That way the white lines would be intact. Another thing one might attempt is using a heat-gun on the case, getting it very hot, but not glowing, and seeing if it softens the glue and plastic enough to get it out. Bear in mind that case will be very hot, so use something to insulate yourself from burn pain. This particular Wittnauer case number is #6519. So if you ever get to do a crystal replace on it, you might consider using the X-acto. Just be careful, as it could easily slip and scratch the rhodium and/or slice your body part. Cheers.
  11. Since I believe that Rolex is a company that makes it very difficult for independent watchmakers to get factory parts, and this 2555 could have proprietary parts, some parts may be tough to get. However, if it's a mainspring for an ETA model, I'd be surprised if a watchmaker couldn't find one. Perhaps there's something else wrong with it that had the watch-person tell you that the part was no longer available. I suspect you could send it to Rolex/Tudor, but it would cost a lot of money to do anything to it at all. Good luck.
  12. I have to say that it was giving me a bit of a Peseux vibe. I have a few GP Seahawks, and a Barthelay for my GF, that I seem to recall having that bevel at the balance-cock foot. Good find on the LP78. It did seem like that was the caliber number, but I didn't see it on Ranfft (Perhaps I'm "overdepending"?), so I gave up. I did notice that the number inside the shield with the "LP" seemed to indicate the model/caliber number. Good work, on finding that parts list., StuartBaker104!
  13. A few days ago I posted a question about the case for this ESA 9154 movement sold by Wittnauer. However, this post relates to the movement. I just can't get it running. The train seems free enough, the battery is good, and I have tried two different circuit boards in it, but still no go. At first I was wondering if some other knucklehead got their hands on it (pun?) before this one did, and demagnetized the balance. However, when I short the pins of the transistor (switch), the balance will oscillate a bit, albeit in very short arcs. It's like it's switching back and forth too quickly. That just a guess. If the train was binding, or the balance wasn't being magnetized, I'd think it wouldn't twitch back and forth like it does when it's powered. The watch doesn't appear to have had a battery meltdown or anything, but it just doesn't want to work for me. I have a Wittnauer with an earlier, ESA 9150, that is running like a champ now. I cleaned and oiled the movement. The balance swings for a bit shorter time period than the 20 second standard and the train moves fine as it does. Does anyone have any clues on what could be wrong? The troubleshooting section, for the coils specifically, is geared towards the ESA9150, which seems to have an extra test-point contact. Parts for the 9154 seem hard to come by. I have 3 other parts movements, but of course don't know why they became such. Any help is appreciated. Cheers.
  14. I had the same problem when trying to access some tech sheets. I wonder if these files have become "unfriendly" to different browsers than someone's preferred one. I use Firefox that is pretty well up to date, so I'd think it would be OK. However, methinks that sometimes it depends on what company (ies) are involved in the hosting. I find Google notorious for throwing wrenches in everyone else's works. I'll try it in my dreaded Chrome, and see what happens. Cheers. OK, even with the dreaded Chrome, the files show up as "unavailable" for me. It looks like the link that HSL provided above is a different name than the ones that are linked to from what I get on the page here in the Technical section. https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=29781 https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/service_sheets_technical_data.html/eta/2370-r69/ The one that works for me is the first one. The second one is what I got linked to from section itself, FWIW.
  15. You mean a GS type press? I do have one, but for some reason I didn't think it would work on my monocoque Wittnauers, etc. My thinking is that the GS press that I have, you have to put the crystal facing down in the support. The case, generally without a back, has to go over the plunger facing downward in order drop over the crystal. With the one-piece case, the back is not removable, so the plunger cannot pass through a bezel or open back case. Am I wrong, or is this a different type than you are referring to?
  16. Yes, welcome. At the time I started becoming less than comfortable working on cars, I started to work on watches. Big machines and little machines, right? What I like about watches is that they are such incredible machines, like classic cars, but without the grease and knuckle-busters. Plus, you can store many without having to own a barn. Are you familiar with the NAWCC (Nat'l Association of Watch and Clock Collectors)? You can usually find a good selection of tools being sold at there various Marts, etc. That's how I got most of my tools. And while not an extensive selection, I have enough to mess up a lot of watches with them. (Half kidding.) Good luck with your watch-work.
  17. I have a crystal lift like that, made by Vigor. It works, but seems a bit sketchy at how it grabs the edges of soft plastic with sharp metal. I'm sure that it puts scratches around the crystal even if you can't see them without magnification. Plus, it's always a pucker-factor 15 to get the crystal's diameter decreased enough to get it inserted. But since I don't have the proper Longines wrenches for monocoque cases, it's all I can use.
  18. I wonder if the 2555 is a movement made for Tudor/Rolex exclusively. It seems I have seen the 6 ball-bearing rotor on Rolex and/or Tudor movements, where the more common across other companies, like Eterna, have 5 ball-bearings. As many know Eterna uses the 5-bearing design in a trademarked logo. At least IIRC. Note: I have little experience with Rolex and Tudor. My comments are based on observations of images, etc., not working experience with them. I have, however, worked on an Eternamatic. Screwed it up all by myself. It was a very small model Eternamatic 1195r. Little bugger, it was. If I ever work on another like it, I'll replace the balance wheel earlier in the reassembly, as trying to maneuver it under the train-bridge proved disastrous.
  19. The Broadway is a fairly common 1857 keywind model Waltham. I believe it has 7 jewels(?). You should be able to use the balance out of another, but you might have to adjust the pivot size and/or re-staff the balance. Does it have a compensated balance (screws around rim) or is it a solid metal balance? Obviously you'd want to get the same type if you can. This might be a good inquiry for the guys over at the NAWCC forum. There are lots of guys with experience with early Waltham pocket watches etc. There's even a "Parts Wanted" area, where you might have some luck. Oh, and if you provide the serial number, I might be able to provide information on it. Otherwise a trip to the pocketwatchdatabase might be in order.
  20. I agree with HSL that it does look like a movement made by ETA. I couldn't find the one when I looked on Dr. Ranfft's site. Interestingly, both the 2483 and 2555 are not listed there. I had looked in that general area. The reverser wheels look like those on ETAs anyway. Good luck.
  21. Your case looks like ones that are used by Wittnauer and Longines, among a few others. On these you have to "blow" the crystal through the case tube after removing the crown. It should be a two-piece stem that has to be pulled smartly, perhaps with a set of nipper pliers. If the case is karat gold, you should be extra careful about where the jaws are levering. But that's how I've pulled them out of Wittnauers with such case. Usually there will be an engraving on the back that says something like, "Use 1260 wrench". These squeeze the crystal to remove it, rather than having to blow the crystal with a syringe. I don't see it on yours, so maybe I'm missing something. Good luck. Looks like Watchweasol beat me to the draw. But they do say the same thing, in essence..
  22. Thanks, AndyHull, I appreciate the tip. But since I have no idea, short of breaking a bunch of thermometers. of how to get liquid mercury, I guess I'll go the patient route. It's another case where I should have checked in before I knocked the somewhat presentable crystal out. What were they (Wittnauer) thinking anyway? I mean crystals are such a common replacement item, you'd think they would have made them more replaceable. Go figure. And yankeedog, yes, they are fairly simple electonically. I don't know why they seem so finicky to me. I have an ESA 9150 in another Wittnauer. I cleaned it last year. I remember when I got it, I found about 3 screws stuck under the balance to the magnet(s). But for some reason screws don't seem to stick to the balance in the 9154 that is not running. I'm wondering if it's not running because someone demagnetized the magnets? There does seem to be more than a few of these movements around that are in very good condition. One might wonder if they are in such condition because people gave up on fixing them. Perhaps after someone demagnetized the balance or something. Is there magnetism present in the balances on these watches without a battery being installed? It sure seems like the balance in the 9154 isn't very magnetized even with a battery in it. And yes, the batteries that these ESAs call for are no longer available. The ones they are supposed to take are 1.35V, but today you can't get anything but 1.55V. I can't help wondering if that's why my running 9150 seems to run pretty fast all the time? Cheers all.
  23. Sorry, make that rhodium, not rodium. It's very mirror-like, so I suspect that it is rhodium. I don't know for sure though. Cheers.
  24. Thanks, Nucejoe. I'll see how that works. However, since the removal you describe sounds labor intensive, I'll probably wait to see if I get the watch running first. Thanks again. Cheers.
  25. Greetings all. I have been working on a Wittnauer transistorized watch, ESA9154. It is a 12 ligne with a commensurately sized case. While I don't have it running yet, I hope to soon. In the meantime, I decided to attack the case. It needed a crystal to be nice. I figured that it was friction fit so I smacked it with a plastic hammer from the back. It came out without too much force, but seemed to have left material behind, with glue, in the bezel. There is a stylized reflector sits to the inside of the crystal. It remains with the case. This seems like it's by design. Two questions: 1.) Does anyone have any experience with the type of case? It's a Wittnauer model 6519, FWIW. ~32mm crystal diameter. 2.) The reflector looks like it's rodium coated. Would it be harmful to it or the gold-plated bezel to soak it in acetone or DNA to soften the clue and clean the groove?
  • Create New...