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MrRoundel

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Everything posted by MrRoundel

  1. Another Platax on the bay, FYI. Not cheap, but I think I've seen them go for more. I don't know the seller. Cheers. Platax
  2. I ended up buying a Meylan stopwatch that has a broken staff. It was under $10 shipped and taxed so I figured it was worth the lessons it held within. It has a broken staff. This probably happened whenever these things were banged around, as the solid balance is pretty beefy. I decided to remove the staff just to see what it was like. It is a rather conventional friction-fit design so it was pretty easy to punch it out. I may even make a staff for it someday soon. Being that has a minimum number of critical dimensions, it should be relatively easy to make. The balance shoulder and hairspring shoulder are the same dimension. And the one-piece double-roller has the other critical dimension. The pivot is a rather massive .14mm. If I can find a pre-made staff for it I probably won't fire up the lathe. We'll see on that one. As I said above, these things probably broke a lot of staffs so there should be some parts out there. I'll report back if I find either on the bay or dangling on the end of a piece of wire (As my old friend Charley used to tell me.). Cheers all.
  3. I found an identical Minerva stopwatch on the bay. After replacing the broken spring under the dial it came time to figure out the setting of the hands. It was a bit tricky trying to get things to line up as I lowered the dial/cams over their respective posts. I ended up Scotch-taping the hands at the 12:00 position while I maneuvered the dial into place. Believe it or not, it worked. The dial screws were the cam style. It took some force to engage, but ended up grabbing. While it seems there is little interest in stopwatches, I find them rather interesting. They're probably used as much or more in the general population than their time-telling counterpart, the pocket watch. And despite having only 7 jewels, the Minerva movement is pretty well made. Not particularly valuable mind you, but neat. Cheers all.
  4. Since I am not doing repairs for compensation, unless the MS is broken or slipping I don't replace it. Sometimes I pop the cover and put a couple of dabs of clock oil on the coils. And there are times when I look at the design of the watch to see how difficult it is to remove the barrel, i.e. number of parts to remove to get there, before I make any decisions. The easiest designs have it so you can just remove the winding wheel (screwed to barrel arbor) and the barrel bridge with crown wheel and click intact. But when I am going to be replacing the MS I always draw a diagram to show which way the spring winds when looking down into the open barrel. Yes, you can tell by looking at the arbor or click, but I like to keep it as simple as possible, FWIW. It's a drag when you get the MS installed cleanly only to discover that you have to remove it again, thereby taking the additional risk in damaging it. Good luck.
  5. After getting the go-ahead (with indemnification) to use a bit more force from the stopwatch's owner, I pried a bit more aggressively. The dial did come off with the hands still attached to their lower cam pieces. It turns out there is a broken coil spring under the dial. That's what we figured based on the action, or lack thereof, of the main button (Crown). I'll probably have to buy a parts watch to get one. The next tricky part will be in re-setting the dial/hand unit. Surely the cams must be set just right relative to the return to zero position. Hopefully I'll figure that one out. Cheers. Images included for the curious.
  6. FWIW, and realizing this is an older thread, I too have issues with my L&R cleaners leaving residue on parts after cleaning. Sometimes it seems like they went in cleaner than they came out. And even if the cleaner left something on the parts I'd expect that the rinse would cut through whatever it was and rinse it off, but it did not. Once the cleaner has sat in the jars for a week or more, it leaves a sticky brown substance on the jar and the metal parts within. This can be after only cleaning one movement. I often end up emptying the solutions and cleaning this residue with denatured alcohol before refilling. It leaves the same sticky film on the SS containers on my WatchMaster ultrasonic. I'm pretty sure that the cleaner and rinse were the same as the OP's. They were the solvent based, non-ammoniated versions. I used them in both an old L&R mechanical cleaner and a WatchMaster ultrasonic and got the same disappointing results. It seemed like I'd clean one watch, get decent results, and all subsequent cleanings this was not so. None of the watches were visibly over-oiled or super grimy. I'll likely be trying an ammoniated Zenith solution next time I order cleaners and hope for the best. Cheers.
  7. Sorry for the double post. I inadvertently posted in the wrong forum. I hope the moderator(s) can delete it. Greetings, folks. I know it's a shot in the dark but does anyone have experience to provide pointers on removing the dial on a Minerva stopwatch? There's an absolute dearth of information on the internet. That surprises me. I have read that they are a bit tricky, but my friend wanted me to look at it to see if it can fixed economically. It's actually a fairly standard looking 3/4 plate watch. The plunger that is actuated by the crown is not operating. It's as if something either broke or slipped behind the dial. Unfortunately, the dial isn't an easy one. This is mostly due to the hands being very tight. I have read that this is the case, but I want to see if any one of our experienced watch experts have anything to say about getting behind the dial on a Minerva stopwatch. Anyone? Thanks ahead of time,. Cheers.
  8. I usually look at what would be the escape wheel bridge to see if it's below the plane of the other bridges, and under the balance. When it is, it says "cylinder" to me. LeCoultre made them. I believe even Patek and Vacheron made them, so the escapement wasn't terrible, especially on the three mentioned. Virtually any watch repair manual from "the day" will have information on cylinders. Lots of info around the WWW. Cheers back at'cha.
  9. Greetings, folks. I know it's a shot in the dark but does anyone have experience to provide pointers on removing the dial on a Minerva stopwatch? There's an absolute dearth of information on the internet. That surprises me. I have read that they are a bit tricky, but my friend wanted me to look at it to see if it can fixed economically. It's actually a fairly standard looking 3/4 plate watch. The plunger that is actuated by the crown is not operating. It's as if something either broke or slipped behind the dial. Unfortunately, the dial isn't an easy one. This is mostly due to the hands being very tight. I have read that this is the case, but I want to see if any one of our experienced watch experts have anything to say about getting behind the dial on a Minerva stopwatch. Anyone? Thanks ahead of time,. Cheers.
  10. I'm pretty sure it's a legitimate LeCoultre. That was a common bridge design they used on their cylinder movements. Be advised that cylinder escapement are rarely highly sought after, and not every watchmaker works on them. Their escapement isn't complicated, but it's different to work on. And it is not considered as accurate as lever escapements. I don't think I'd chase that one, especially if it's not running. Good luck.
  11. Be super careful with that one. I'm guessing it's 18k gold, so any slippage of opening tools will leave their mark. And once you get in there, that dial looks special, so I wouldn't want to mar it using tools that don't afford the proper protection. Dang hands can be tricky. In the image the hands don't look terribly misaligned. In fact, it has them in the classic sales pose of 10:10. I'm guessing those are the sales images? That said, if you've seen them in their straight up hour positions, you know if they are misaligned. Good luck.
  12. If you have the Chicago Watchmaking School set, video or hard copy, you might find your answer on page 5 of chapter 5. There they show an Elgin 18s full-plate watch that has the click accessed through the side of the watch. I'd be looking there. If you think you've found it, give your let-down key a clockwise twist and watch for the movement of the click. A piece of small pegwood might get in there to let it down. If not, use whatever fits. Just make sure you have a good hold on the let-down key before committing. Good luck.
  13. Yes, those Esembl-O-Graf booklets/DVD, etc. would be very handy indeed. I remember seeing them being sold at NAWCC marts. But since I was only interested in pocket watches at the time, I never snagged any. I do remember a friend buying a bunch of them. Good thought. I had forgotten about them.
  14. At first I was thinking that you were fed "a line" by the jeweler about the "Rolex shop". But after searching on that movement I see that it may have Valjoux 72 chrono movement in it. I believe that some classic Rolex chronos use that same movement. I agree with others about the virtual impossibility of fixing it yourself without doing more harm than good. That said, that price probably includes some things that you can do without. That sounds like a complete refurbishment price to me. Depending on the condition of things, you may be able to get by with a clean and oil to get it running. You won't get guaranteed waterproofing, new crystal, etc., but you may be able to make it wearable. As you can see in the information that JohnR275 provided, there are a lot of parts in that movement. Just keeping the screws of so many different shapes and sizes takes a special type of care. And if something got lost of broken during repair I don't think you'll have access to a large inexpensive supply of replacement parts for a Valjoux 72. If you're in the USA, Annie, you might consider navigating to the AWCI website. They are an organization specializes in watch and clock repair information, continuing education, etc., and has a list of watchmakers who you can probably set store in. Maybe there is one in your area? That's where I'd be headed. Best of luck. It sounds like a great watch to have inherited.
  15. In most cases the spring-bar can be removed from either side. If you don't have a special tool you can USUALLY use a small screwdriver to depress the pin between the lug and the band. You'll know rather quickly if it moves via spring action. Watch your non screwdriver had while you do it, as you can slip and nick yourself. Oh, and in your case, if you can get a decent contact on the end of the "pin"and push it down, you'll know if it springs rather than pushes through. If it is some odd type of non spring-bar type, like the type through the rest of the band, you may need a special band tool, or at least a very small punch and a way to hold the case sideways while you press it out. Good luck.
  16. I meant to say he's selling mainsprings. Doh!
  17. There's a guy on daBay selling what he says are "Peseux stems for mechanical watches" that includes one for a Peseux 7001, which I believe is the same as the ETA 7001. If they are indeed Peseux branded NOS springs, you should be in luck. Not cheap, but should work if ETA 7001 = Peseux 7001. The seller is in the USA. Good luck.
  18. The case looks very British to me. In fact, the Dennison-made cases that were popular in housing many export Waltham movements, used very similar font for the engraving. That said, I've never seen a Dennison marked with that content description. I agree completely that the watch is some sort of layered or coated gold, with a brass interior. The hallmarks themselves should still indicate where the case was made, the case maker, and the year in which it was made. A book or website that deals with British hallmarks might get you there. As oldhippy said, many of these cases, at least those made in America, had year markings denoting the thickness of the outer gold layer. But all sorts of rather misleading markings were put on cases before regulators cracked down to make them look like they may be solid karat gold. That said, I don't recall seeing this particular marking before. Or even one like it on a pin-set type case. It's interesting, but almost certainly not karat gold. Cheers.
  19. Yup, it sounds like the bezel/case has to cinch down against the crystal. If I were you, I'd measure the OD of the existing crystal and go one size up, if you can find it. But even if you get that right, who can say what the brand and thickness of the crystal might be? Warning: Even doing this is not guarantee that it will work. This is probably why the watch still had the cracked crystal installed. These are a royal PITA. If everything is held together fairly well with the old crystal, you might consider getting a watchmaker to buff out the crystal. Or if you have the tools, do it yourself. With the crystal polished, you might learn to live with the cracks. They don't seem to be in areas that they'd inhibit reading the time. Best of luck.
  20. I'm sure that the ring is a pure reflector, not a tension-ring. If it was a tension ring, and it sat below the rim of the case back, it would have a hard time tensioning anything worthwhile. The movement sits in the case back, the reflector ring goes on top of the dial, the crystal goes on, and the case-back gets pressed through the bezel/case. Yours is not the first crystal I have seen that is cracked in those places. What it may be is that the crystal was correct but shrunk as plastic crystals tend to do. If the crystal shrinks without somehow convincing the case-back to shrink along with it, something's gonna give. This doesn't make it any easier to choose the right one, does it? If you measure the OD of the existing crystal, you should probably take it up on size due to the shrinkage. I'm still curious if the case/bezel will fit snugly against the back without the crystal in place. Regardless, this is the type of case that the GP's use. Benrus also used them, as they made a special tool for dealing with these case.
  21. Are you, spectre6000, referring to the top part as the "case"? I would refer to it as a bezel, with the case-back actually encasing the watch. With the cases that I refer to, the crystal's ID fits over the case-back's OD until it is stopped by a ledge on the case-back. The bezel then goes over that assembly until it fits snugly and at the right depth to look right and hold onto the OD of the crystal. That said, yours may be more about the crystal fitting the case-back well and the bezel being a good friction fit to the larger case-back diameter below the crystal. If that is the situation, then the bezel should fit the case back snugly without a crystal being installed. With my Perregaux model this is not the situation. Cheers.
  22. Here's a recent discussion that you might find helpful. Getting the right crystal for this type of case on the first attempt might take some luck. Hopefully the right research in finding the mistakes/learning of others will make it easier. Wyler thread
  23. It is as I suspected. Those are tough. I suspect that the #669 might be the case design number. Perhaps look for a Grana 669 crystal by GS or other? Even if you find a 669 of another company, and it seems to have same dimensions, it might be worth a shot. Good luck. BTW, the info I have doesn't seem match your case's spec's. Sorry. If I find something else I'll post.
  24. If the case is the type I think it might be (Need to see image of case back.), it will be a bear to find a crystal. It looks like it might be the type of case that Girard Perregaux used in their forties Sea Hawk watches. In those cases the inside diameter of the crystal needs to fit snugly against the outside of the case back. In addition, the bezel must also fit snugly around the outside of the crystal. The metal ring would be a reflection ring that sets down on the dial before the crystal goes on. As was mentioned, it may be the type of case that you'll have to take in/send in to a material house or get very lucky and find one for the brand and size on da Bay. I have dealt with a few of these. I'll see if my case measurements are the same as yours. If so, I MAY be able to save you a lot of time and hassle. I'll try to look for that info this morning. Good luck. Cheers.
  25. Oh, and according to this specialty website, the movements are transistor controlled. Electronic Watch Site Better reference
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