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MrRoundel

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Everything posted by MrRoundel

  1. Good job. That was smart using that compass(?) for a "special wrench". I can't remember what I used. It might have been a junky set of tweezers. I'll remember the compass-tool. Bob Tascione has a nice animation of the workings of the stopworks. In it, you should be able to see the shape of the part you need. It's on youtube. Search his name and you'll find it. Good luck.
  2. It may have a two-piece barrel-arbor. That means that in order to remove it from the bridge, you must unscrew the sides of the arbor. That's what I had to do do on a Vacheron that I worked on recently. When oldhippy wakes up, he may tell you that the arbor has left-handed threads, so be careful, and don't proceed until you know. You can snap the square off the arbor. Sorry to say, but I have done it. If you indeed got as lucky as you think you did when you pulled the balance, it was probably because there was very little power left in the mainspring. All's well if it ends well. Good luck with the watch.
  3. Well, with body piercings, ear gauges, etc., being all the rage, it's natural that the world would gravitate towards old-style self-mutilation with such implements . My face is too precious , and my Mach (?) provides the easiest, smoothest shave ever. Preciousness is something it's hard to put a price on.
  4. That looks like a good size of screwdrivers to start with. However, on the other side from the hairspring stud screw, a larger, perhaps 2.00mm driver might come in handy for winding wheel screws. If you use your 1.40, just don't forget that the crown-wheel screw is likely "righty-loosey", "lefty-tighty", i.e., left-handed threads. Clockwise will remove. Years ago I bought a Bergeon set that runs from .50mm to 2.50mm, and have never been sorry. I generally use the 2.00mm for the crown-wheel and winding wheel screws, IIRC. Good luck.
  5. I just saw an auction for the same model watch that looks like the minute marks are gone on it as well. So I'm not the only one who had to resort to the acetone soak. It's really sad that it doesn't seem to be able to be removed safely, as it looks a lot better with the minute marks. Again, what was Wittnauer thinking? It may also be that people can't find the right crystal, and end up buying one that is slightly small so that requires the glue-in. It's not easy to find the crystal with the date magnifier in it. I ended up ordering one without the magnifier. It's a bit of a gamble, being that the watch still doesn't run. Cheers. No affilation. For example only.
  6. When I face a stubborn arbor/spring pairing, I use a collet-holding pin-vise, with the barrel held on top of a piece of round pithwood with a hole in the center. Granted, the collet-holding vise may not be an easy get, but I suppose a large pin-vise would work just as well. With two-piece Swiss arbors, I have used a pointed piece of pegwood to keep the arbor centered as I manipulate it into the inner coil with the back end of brass tweezers. Good luck.
  7. You don't need to be a member to join the message board. If you go to NAWCC.org and go to the watch forums, you'll probably see him posting in the European pocket-watch forum. You might then be able to send him a personal message. Good luck.
  8. There's a relative of Audemars (Posts under that name.) who contributes regularly on the NAWCC message board. He seems like a nice guy. He might be able to help. Good luck.,
  9. I have a friend who is into restoring old vises. Apparently, the hobby has a pretty big following. I can understand it. Nice job on the Boley. I like the blue with the white lettering.
  10. It looks like somebody got a real good grip on the barrel with that steel-jawed vise, doesn't it? Steel with leverage versus brass. We know what wins. Butchery, to be sure.
  11. Thanks, nickelsilver. My next move will probably be bringing the unlocking jewel back a little closer to the plane of the impulse jewel. I probably moved the unlocking roller a touch too much to bring it closer to 90 degrees. When I watched the escapement by manipulating the balance wheel counterclockwise, and saw the detent start to release the locking jewel, it seemed a bit behind. And in the Hamilton book, it said to place the unlocking jewel near 90 degrees from the impulse jewel. Originally, it was probably off, the the late side, by 5 degrees or so. I moved it the full 5 degrees, when I probably should have moved it a bit less. Since I did not disassemble the detent, the adjustment of it should not have moved. Therefore, I'm thinking it's probably in my not getting the unlocking jewel just right. Of course it could also be wear on the escape wheel teeth or the chips in the unlocking and impulse jewels. No matter what, due to those chips, I won't be running it for any length of time until I can find some replacement jewels. And who the heck knows when that will be? I just know I don't want to destroy the movement by doing something stupid. Thanks again. Cheers.
  12. I should have been clear, it was Mr. Morris who referred to the detent behavior as "tripping". Not being a clock person (?) (or perhaps experienced enough watch person), I hadn't heard the term before. Thanks. Cheers.
  13. I'm happy to report that my chronometer is now running. I had to adjust the unlocking roller so that it was closer to 90 degrees from the impulse roller to get it to run. However, it is running at double-time. More of a sprint than a run. According to Bill Morris, author of "The Mariner's Chronometer", this is generally attributable to the unlocking jewel remaining in contact with the passing spring for too long. The chronometer ends up doing what is called "tripping". I'm guessing it might mean something else to oldhippy, or other baby-boomer types, but that's what it means when in reference to chronometers. It would seem that the adjustment that needs to be made is at the unlocking roller, as I didn't touch the adjustment on the detent when I disassembled. I'm letting it rest in its gimbal box for now, while I decide what the next course of action is. I do consider it a victory that it is running at all after restaffing it myself. Cheers.
  14. I figured it out, thanks to the tear-down video of Bunn Spl's on youtube. It's a spacer that goes between the back of the balance-stop arm that was only used in the earlier models of the model 21. The parts list doesn't show the arm at all. Cheers.
  15. Another Hamilton chronometer question: Does anyone happen to know where this part (image) goes on my Model 21? I had it in with the balance-cock screw and HS stud screws (I usually put section parts in associated containers), but I can't for the life of me figure where it goes. It has an OD of 6.4mm, with a thickness of 2.84mm. I have been through the Hamilton manual a few times, yet still don't see it in either the re-assembly section or parts list. It fits nicely inside the recess for the balance cock screw, and the screw threads can pass through the center, but not the non-threaded upper screw part. Color me confused. Any help is appreciated. Many thanks.
  16. From the looks of it, I'd say it's a flat/round crystal. You might also need a gasket for it. I'm not familiar with the watch, and honestly I have only replaced one flat crystal before. The top of the crystal looks dead-flat, so I"m pretty sure that's it. There's a rule of thumb for the spacer size vs. the crystal size, but I don't know it. If you search youtube for site owner's videos "The Watch Repair Channel", he has a good one on replacing a flat crystal. That's what I watched when I was doing mine. I think this is it. Good luck. Watch Repair Channel's crystal video
  17. Unless you can get the specs from Fortis, you'll probably have to put some calipers to the crystal with the movement out of the case. You can do that without removing the crystal. If you remove the crystal, digital calipers or a micrometer should work well to check the thickness. Those watches are big. I had a friend who used to wear those, called them "Tuna cans". Nice looking if you have the wrist for it. Good luck.
  18. I just thought of the fact that I may have seen "Traveler" marked on 1888 models as well. And I just verified this in "The Complete Guide to Pocket Watches". If yours is an '88 model, I hope you have a case for it. Like the '72 model Waltham, they take a special case. If you can provide an image, or at least the serial number, from the movement, the model can be determined. Cheers.
  19. That should be either a model 1908 or 1899. There are few differences between them, and I'd guess that the hands are the same. Very common movement. I believe the Traveler, mostly a gilt finished movement, was made for export, with most being sold in Britain. Good luck.
  20. Great video. Nice machine work. Thanks. One takeaway is that the Rolimat tool is one heck of an addition to a tool arsenal. I'll bet it's sort of costly as well. An auto-Jacot tool?
  21. I'm not familiar with the movement, but my guess would be that there's a (isn't that) special tool that has three posts to fit in the three holes at the top of the rotor. You probably hold the rotor and loosen the hold-down disc. Just a WAG, and probably what you are hoping against. Good luck.
  22. Well, it being a movement that has metal parts attached, and riding in, plastic parts, and not having easy access to the under-dial parts, I agree with Vinn3 on fixing the movement. That said, if you can pull the dial and movement, and replace the movement, you might get more life out of the package. My feeling is that there is probably excessive wear at the point the stem detent attaches to, or through, the plastic. It also looks like there might be rust on the spring that is underneath the set-lever. If so, movement replacement is by far the best option if you want to get it working. Good luck.
  23. I see that the issue is probably that the Hamilton manual only mentions lowering the train blocking screw between the arms of the 4th wheel. They left out the part that if you don't have the blocking screw, you must use wire to hold the train. Based on this, I figured I'm going to have to get a heavier wire than I used during disassembly. Otherwise, I'm not sure it will hold back the MS' power.
  24. OK, so here's something I'm finding a bit mysterious. According to the manual, you're supposed to wind the mainspring fully, then let it off 1/4 turn BEFORE you install the escapement? OK, I"m baffled. Is it because I haven't locked the train yet? Is that the reason for using the wire or the later use of the train-lock screw? And, to wind the fusee chain onto the barrel, I turn the arbor clockwise in order to have the chain wrap properly around the barrel. And I remember that I wound this chronometer counter-clockwise. So, after the chain is wound entirely around the barrel, you actually wind the clock counterclockwise at the fusee arbor? As I said, I'm new to clocks. And I haven't worked on a fusee watch in years, and I only worked on a couple. I just don't remember how this stuff works. Any help is appreciated. Many thanks.
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