Jump to content

How can I fix this broken Seiko bracelet?


Recommended Posts

Broken pin. Isn't that easy to do a good repair. You need to push out the stumps from the link and arrange a proper replacement link. You need precise tools and a small press or vice, dies etc. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some times on this type of bracelet providing all the old pin has been removed, you can fix it using a spring bar, the sort you use to fix the bracelet to the watch case. I'm not saying it works every time but its worth a try. You can buy very thin bars, it need to be thin to go through the middle part of the bracelet. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I gave a better look at the picture, this type of bracelet uses a thin shaped plate to join links, not a pin, and that is what broke. So you would have to push it out first (not easy as if not part of adjusting links is not meant to be removed), and then make a new one using maybe a jeweler piercing saw and files, or you can get another from another bracelet, or try what oldhippy said, I did a repair like that once. 

Finally a note about tools, all I meant to say is that they have to work for the job, not that they have to come from a given country. Prejudice in this sense is useless, especially when aspersed without specific reason or contribution. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have repaired quite a few of these type bands.  The U shaped pins / plates indicated by the blue arrows appear to be the ones that are more easily removed.  You should see directional removing arrows stamped on the inside of the band.  The plates pointed to with red arrows are removable but will take more care in getting those out.  Unfortunately, this is the part that has been broken in your case.

You may experiment with removing one of the plates indicated with the blue arrows just to see how they are removed.

George

 

IMG_3804.thumb.JPG.9fbd5d480967361a2d7f6bedaafdfbf3.JPG.3b51e7ef122f8e50c3064ed0f6b4bb2d.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro.
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
×
×
  • Create New...