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Everything posted by GeorgeC

  1. Hello, I had a similar situation with the B023M movement just recently. Watch was sent to me with the capacitor "installed" but it would not charge regardless of the light or duration of time left under a light source. I couldn't find any documentation on the correct installation position for the capacitor online or on images of similar movements online. I did get the correct position figured out and the watch's original capacitor worked. Sometimes the battery replacement 'experts' just place them in the cell cavity and hope for the best.
  2. Actually the veteran it was issued to gave it to me this evening and asked if I could possibly clean it. That made it even more challenging to try and do no harm.
  3. Thanks for the comment saswatch88 I got the movement out. Being a metal movement installed in a snug fit plastic case only once at the factory, this was not going to just be tapped out of its case. I used some fine dental floss and worked it in starting at the stem side with the ends of the string at the 9 o'clock position. This let me leverage up on that side. I could then just rotate the split stem where the male part was horizontal to the case. I then could gently coerce the movement by rotating it just enough to slide the female part of the stem from the male part. Did not have to pull outward on stem for separation. 7 jeweler but it was very dry. It is remarkable working on this realizing it has been in the Vietnam War.
  4. I have a watch that appears to run but will need an overhaul due to age. It is a Military issue watch that the original owner has. Case is plastic and is indicated on the case back "(NON MAINTAINABLE)". I would like to line up the split stem, like so |i| and the movement could simply "fall out" of the case but I'm not having much luck. As this is probably the first time the movement has been removed from the case, there is little wear for it to loosely fall out. I fear too much tweezer pressure wedge between crown and plastic case and this the owners original issue to himself. Any past experienced users of this extraction?
  5. Another reason could be that fix-o-drop / epilame agent could have remnants on one of the stones that appears to be a smaller diameter drop.
  6. I have repaired quite a few of these type bands. The U shaped pins / plates indicated by the blue arrows appear to be the ones that are more easily removed. You should see directional removing arrows stamped on the inside of the band. The plates pointed to with red arrows are removable but will take more care in getting those out. Unfortunately, this is the part that has been broken in your case. You may experiment with removing one of the plates indicated with the blue arrows just to see how they are removed. George
  7. I would like to ask how other watchmakers go about installing the upper jewel for the oscillating weight axle. It seems that there isn't much of a working area on the underside to position a staking tool so as to be flush with the plate. Thanks for any input. George
  8. Another idea that may work, when the regulator arm extends over the cock-plate, would be to have a brass screwdriver blade size 60 or 80, and place the edge just under the side of the regulator arm and pry the arm in the direction desired by raising the screwdriver handle up in a leveraging method. I don't have a watch currently to show an image of but I've put this image together.
  9. That is a great option, I haven't used a timer that had the colored lines. Very nice.
  10. Right. M1ks points out that you have to let the machine run a few seconds to let the adjustment and human intervention of the watch to flush out to get an accurate reading once again.
  11. My reason for restarting: I am using the 1000 model and after attempting to adjust beat error, with a +-3 s/day watch as an example, I may be trying to adjust beat where the graph will have one line on the top edge of the display and the other on the bottom. I can stop/start the machine and get the graph back in the middle of the display for better reading.
  12. Great thought. To prevent any marks from a tool such as a metal screwdriver, I could fashion a plastic pixie stick or a piece of peg-wood to a flat end and give that a slight twist for control. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I would like to hear the various techniques for making the fine regulator lever adjustments and beat adjustment, when available on the upper side of the balance bridge. If you get within 0.8ms in beat, what are you doing to get it tweaked to 0.1 to -0.1 ? I use a double loupe magnification on my reader glasses and sometimes seem to go too much one way and then again too much in the other direction when fiddling with this. Thanks, George
  14. I would think that this is more a retaining clip vs a shock spring. I recall another forum member mentioning this about the Kif duofix. He described that for a third or fourth wheel where the pivot didn't have a substantial shoulder to contact the hole jewel to arrest the shock beyond the 'spring' giving way, this shows that the spring/clip really was meant as a retaining device for the cap jewel. The incabloc style shock system allowed for the spring to absorb the smaller shocks and, if significant, the shoulder of the staff would contact the hole jewel to further protect the pivots.
  15. Do any of you use the multi-compartment style cleaning basket that lines up with the watch bench tray with a clear cover? I thought that this would be a very efficient way to place the desktop base over the basket and turn it over, thus preventing you from having to touch each part to remove from the cleaning tray. Below is an image of a bench tray, I have 2 from CasKer. I just would like to know if there are matched pairs of basket and desktop tray and if so, what is the supplier name. My trays are the light blue ones with 6 compartments.
  16. I may have only inserted a new spring in a setting like this 2 or 3 times. My method would be to use non-magnetic or demagnetized tweezers. Install one leg of the spring under the setting rim. Now place a small bead of rodico in that area to keep the spring from flying away. If you grasp the middle of the spring with your tweezers in a low profile in horizontal alignment with the movement, you will further maintain control of the spring. Use another tweezer or instrument to gently nudge the other spring leg in its place. See the second post in the forum link below. He seems to describe a similar method for installing the spring if it is out of the setting. "Hold the middle of the spring and insert one side and with another instrument and your other hand, gently nudge the other leg of the spring under the setting rim lip." https://www.thewatchsite.com/34-watchmaking-tinkering/145530-how-do-you-replace-diashock-cap-jewel-spring.html
  17. I found this image that shows the intended release process for releasing the retainer clip/spring in order to simply remove the cap jewel for oiling and replacing. If I find a scrapper watch with this type of spring, I will record a video and post of its installation into the setting.
  18. Can you verify by research the duofix spring number this model takes for me? Will be 10-2 or 10-3 I believe but, just want you to try and check. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Balance wheel stops — Check that the forks of the pallet fork aren’t touching the roller table. Check that the hairspring is flat and was not bent due to hanging on one of the center wheel teeth when removed. It could be touching either the balance wheel arm or cock plate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. You should install the center wheel first, followed by the rest of the train wheels. Wind the watch some and inspect, in a horizontal view, the freely spinning gears for wobble and freedom of turning. Next, proceed with pallet fork and balance install.
  21. Check Mark’s video here at around the 2:00 mark. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. If you have cleaned the movement, then the pallet fork should not be installed at this point. Install it after all of the train wheels are in. With the watch in a movement holder, carefully place all of the train wheels in their proper order and in their jewel holes. Then place the upper plate over the wheels gently and as close to level as you can. At this point you could use a piece of peg wood to apply gentle pressure to the top plate and turn the center wheel to watch for all train wheels to move smoothly. It really is a matter of learning the “touch” of acceptable pressure and nudging the wheels into their pivots. Comes with experience. Once you have them in place, continue to hold the peg wood in place until you get the plate screws in. Then slowly tighten the plate screws, always checking that the wheels are still moving freely.
  23. When I oil these type jewels, I will use my smallest screwdriver blade and insert in the gap indicated in the image and would gently rotate the screwdriver clockwise to pry the tab from under the inserting. Next gently move the spring down and toward the 7 o’clock direction just enough to allow you to use rodico to lift out the cap jewel. Never attempt to remove the spring entirely. Resecuring the spring is more of the challenge for me. I will move the spring back up to the position and gently try and reverse the process of how it was released as described above. Hope this helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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