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DoctoralHermit

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Everything posted by DoctoralHermit

  1. Also, I am quite certain that I have put in the correct length screws... I recorded screw length on disassembly. The one that goes through the eyelet on the setting lever is a distinct screw, as I believe it's the screw that you use to release the crown from the movement.
  2. I really wasn't sure what to lubricate, so I lubricated the crown a bit, along with the point where each wheel contacts the pivot. Are there other places I should lubricate? Also, to be more specific, I'm unable to pull the crown out at all, it's not necessarily winding that is the issue. Could this be affected by a lack of lubrication as well?
  3. Yes, there is a spring that is pushing on the yoke lever, and I believe it has been placed properly. I'm sorry, I didn't quite understand the part about the pin and the setting lever. Does this mean I have to screw down the cover plate when the crown is pulled out, so that the setting lever is in a different position?
  4. Hello again! from the Mockba bench! For those of you who haven't seen my previous posts, this is a 1950s Mockba watch made in the First Moscow Watch Factory. It's my first build, and I'm really excited that I've made it this far, but the keyless works appear to be an impasse. I would greatly appreciate your help! I've assembled the keyless works, as seen in the attached pictures, but I cannot push the crown or pull it out at all. Here's some details on what I did to assemble the keyless works: 1. Pushed in the crown all the way 2. Put the clutch lever in the groove of the clutch 3. Pushed the clutch outwards as far as it can, which also moved the clutch lever and the set lever 4. Wedged the lever spring against the clutch lever so it stores potential energy 5. Screwed down the cover plate, ensuring that the little peg sticking down from the arm of the cover plate is pressed against one of the notches (which I assume is for this purpose) of the set lever Any idea why the whole thing seems to be firmly affixed, but so much that the crown cannot be pulled out at all? Thank you!
  5. I just tried this... you are correct! I needed to put the screw in place and then secure the bridge atop it. The other thing I had to do was to apply pressure to that tiny steel plate, so that its threading could catch that of the crown release screw.
  6. Upon reflection, I think you might be right here. The screw has a protrusion towards the screwdriver-end of it (visible when highly zoomed in to the picture below)... perhaps this is what should be secured down by the bridge. Within the next day, I'll try to insert the screw before installing the bridge, and let you know how it goes!
  7. Hello again watchmakers! First of all, I want to thank you so much for all your help so far... I've come quite a ways in my quest to service my Mockba manual-winding wristwatch made at the First Moscow Watch Factory in the 1950s. Your guidance has been invaluable! The crown releases with a screw that is just next to where the crown inserts. You can see in the first picture below that I've placed this crown release screw in its place. However, I'm not able to screw it into anything... I think it's supposed to screw into the eyelet of the little metal plate in the keyless works (see the second picture). That tiny metal plate slides around between the others a bit... is the trick to find the right positioning, or is it something else? Please let me know if you have any advice on what to do from here! I really don't want to fail, after having made it this far. Thank you!
  8. Just look at the end of the spring, and imagine if it were to grow from the outer end that's the direction to push it. I do it with a screwdriver on the "ear" or whatever you might call it that's sticking up, but a piece of brass would be better. Okay! So I ended up following your directions, and had to apply a bit of extra lube on the top of the inside wall of the barrel, but it seemed to fit mostly into place. I then placed a cover to protect the barrel and used the pliers a bit to clamp it into place, as the barrel wouldn't seem to close with just my fingers pressing. Does this mean I've screwed up somehow? Side note: it's okay if I've broken this one... I have extras, this is just for practice so I don't screw up my good spring and barrel assembly!
  9. Thank you! This is very helpful, and definitely points me in the right direction. I suspected that might be the correct procedure. When you say "end first," do you mean it should go towards the apex of the bend in the tongue (leftwards, as represented by the character "<") or towards the end of the tongue and spring, which is doubled back towards the direction in which I insert the spring?
  10. This is a very old (1950s-era) First Moscow Watch Factory Mockba watch. The mainspring has two little rectangles that stick out up and down from the bent-back tongue part of the mainspring. I assume these rectangle bits are to fit into two corresponding notches in the barrel and ratchet wheel (please see attached picture). However, when inserting the mainspring into the barrel to wind it, I'm having a hell-of-a-time getting the mainspring to fit into the barrel notch. After it's all coiled, the notched tongue of the mainspring doesn't really fit into the barrel notch, and so it sticks up. Thus, the ratchet wheel can't quite fit down all the way. Is there a trick to it? Should I just file off the notches on the mainspring so it goes in any which way (that must be a terrible practice... but would it work?) Thank you!!
  11. Thank you! I will certainly post the completed watch, Mockba 1mchz from the 1950s (I believe), when it's completed!
  12. Thanks all! #1 will be the one I put in then.
  13. That's what I was leaning towards too... is it because it appears to be less tightly coiled?
  14. I've just dissembled three old Russian 1mchz movements and extracted the mainsprings (see pic below). I'm trying to decide which is the best one. I believe that #2 and #3 might be original mainsprings from way back in the 1950s. #1 seems to be of a different material, and definitely has a broader shape. Please note that I've left the arbor in #1. Which do you think is best?
  15. Thank you! Before, I was holding the barrel in place and turning the screw, but I think it was still turning the ratchet wheel. When I held the ratchet wheel in place instead, it worked!
  16. Hello again! I'm having trouble removing this barrel from the plate (is it called a barrel plate?) of this old Mockba 1mchz russian movement. The screw on the top is just for winding the watch... it doesn't seem to loosen the barrel from the plate. Any thoughts?
  17. You are correct! Upon careful inspection, there are two screws at 180 degree position on the mainplate. Thank you!
  18. I'm struggling to remove this dial... any thoughts?
  19. Wow, I feel like an idiot haha. I shouldve thought of that... thank you!
  20. Please forgive me for the super-simple question, but I'm curious about what the best way is to cover an open movement I'm currently servicing (perhaps if I take an overnight break).
  21. Hey all! This is my first bracelet repair, so I have no idea what I'm doing. I have a broken Seiko bracelet, but it doesn't seem to have pins. It does have a small bit with a seam at the end, as visible in these pictures:
  22. Thank you! By the "tube end," do you mean the part of the cannon pinion that sticks up, or do you mean the part on the underside of the second hand that fits into the cannon pinion?
  23. Wow, thank you for the heads up! I'll definitely reconsider my decision to go with Hacko.
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