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  1. Hello everyone, I recently acquired a watch that I've long considered a "grail". A JLC Memovox. Specifically, the reference E875 ("Speed Beat") with a calibre 916. I got it for really good price and it is in full original condition. It's still running quite well, but I do want to service it. I found the service manual online (attached) and it seems to be doable. JLC 916.pdf But I'd still be grateful for any tips!! One specific question I have is related to the mainspring barrel. The manual says that the barrel "should never be opened. In case of defect, replace the whole barrel assembly". Now, I've opened "do not open"-barrels before and reused them with no problems. And there are other threads discussing this matter in a more general way. But I'd be very grateful if anyone had specific knowledge of this movement or other JLC movements from the 1970s. Obviously, it's impossible to source a NOS barrel complete for this movement (and even if, the breaking grease and arbor lubrication would not be in good condition anymore). So I'm left with only two options: open the barrel as usual or just leave it closed and reuse. (Well, or I pay 4-digit service costs at JLC/Richmond group.)
  2. I got a little 3D printed mainspring winder (8mm) I'm trying to wind the spring for a 10mm barrel. This a Zim2602. Am I breaking them because the winder is too small for the spring? Or is this a case of user bumbling?
  3. I'm having a devil of a time trying to insert the barrel arbor into the mainspring. I don't want to bend the mainspring out of shape so i'm turning to this forum for suggestions. I have taken Mark's course and (repeatedly) watched the chapter on "FITTING THE BARREL ARBOR AND LID". - He mentions using a pair of strong brass tweezers in the video. - Any suggestions as what are the best tweezers. (I only have a #2 and #4 straight titanium tweezers so far)? - I my case the inner coil of the mainspring is slightly smaller than the arbor but i can't insert the arbor at much of an angle because of the radius of the bottom hole in the barrel, which complicates getting the arbor to fit. - Suggestions? Thank you! Steve
  4. I've been watching YouTube and getting more and more confused. I've seen people use machine oil, engine oil, engine oil additives (Slick 50), D5, bearing grease, molybdenum disulphide grease, graphite grease, chain lube, PTFE dry lube.... Some advise putting a thin film, while others really slather on the stuff. I know @oldhippy always advises using Windle's Clock Oil on mainsprings, but how exactly is it applied and in what quantities? TIA
  5. Hi everyone, does anyone know how to open this kind of barrel?? I'm working on a Jubilee watch with CRC 862 movement and it's been driving me nuts. I tried the usual way to pop off the top (pressing evenly on either side of barrel body wheel) but it doesn't seem to be budging and I don't want to force it. Any suggestions? Thanks for reading!
  6. Hi all. The story behind this watch is - It was given as a gift for long service to a gentleman. He had a choice of a gents or ladies Rolex and he chose the ladies and gave it to his wife as a present. She wore it everyday and cherished it. She left it to her daughter who kept it in a drawer not working and judging by the internal marks serviced only twice in its lifetime. It came to me as we know the lady who is now in her 70's and she would like now to wear it so I offered to service it and here it is. I think wearing it will bring her closer to her mum -in a nice way. I need to obtain a mainspring for it as the original is distorted. Can anyone help identifying the correct mainspring? On the back of the main plate it has a number stamped 120. Thank you for any help.
  7. Greetings All, Hope that all are doing well - in this crazy COVID world. I recently acquired a 1958 Rolex Ref. 6569 with a Cal. 1030 movement. All-in-all very nice and clean for her age - and runs very well. The winding pinion and clutch wheel had worn each other out - so I found NOS Rolex parts and replaced those. I though the watch deserved the new parts. It appeared to have been serviced in the last 10 years - because everything looked clean and the oil looked good (and present). Since the watch seemed to be running well and in good health (other than the winding pinion and clutch wheel) - I didn't do a complete service. I didn't think it was worth the risk. However, it seems to me that the watch is harder to wind than I would expect. I did do a full service on a 1215 that I bought for my wife (ref. 6694). It needed everything - but an awesome running movement when I was finished. The 1215 is of course a manual wind - but similar to the 1030. The 1215 winds lightly and smoothly as one would expect. The 1030 is "stiff". I haven't taken the barrel apart - but have just ordered some new mainsprings. Is there anything tricky about replacing the auto mainspring in a 1030? Or is more or less like any modern auto? Clean the barrel; apply braking grease to wall; fit spring; fit arbor - oil lightly at spring-arbor interface; replace lid? Also - I was only able to find a parts-list for this movement. Anyone know where a tech/service sheet (or similar) may be found? Thanks in advance for your suggestions. -Paul
  8. I'm interested to learn the definition of a pocket and a wristwatch mainspring, in terms of dimensions. 1) What is the general height range for a wrist watch mainspring? Eg. 1mm to 2mm 2) What is the general diameter range for a wrist watch mainspring? Eg. 7mm to 12mm 3) What is the general height range for a pocket watch mainspring? 4) What is the general diameter range for a pocket watch mainspring? 5) Is the mainspring eye/hole size generally half the height of the mainspring? Reason: I'm looking to classify them correctly for improving the rs winder project releases. Will appreciate any help.
  9. Forgive me if this is a dumb question. I'm currently working on an AS 1187 1194 movement which has a broken mainspring. I have a bunch of NOS mainsprings and would prefer to use one of possible. After looking into it, it seems the proper mainspring size for this movement is Denn. 6 x 11 -- 11.5 I've got ones close to that but not exactly that. So my question is, is it possible to use a mainspring with a slightly different width, strength, or length? Is there more wiggle room in regards to any measurements in particular? (by that I mean, maybe there is no wiggle room in width but some wiggle room in strength etc) I've attached some photos with ones that seem to be relatively close, and am wondering your thoughts on using any of them? This is for a personal project so I'm looking to spend as little money as possible, otherwise I would buy a new mainsprings from Jules Borel. Thank you for any help you can give!
  10. After having experimented with some very cheap watches I thought it was time to attempt something a little nicer. Bought this silver pocket watch and took it apart. Noticed quite a few of the jewels were shattered so is likely to be beyond my skill set at the moment to restore anyway. Despite that, I decided, probably unwisely, to examine the mainspring and measure it up for a replacement so rendering it useless in the process. The measurement I have taken are: Height: 2.6mm Thickness 0.2mm Length: 520mm ID of barrel: 16.5mm Type TR Then I find out there is no replacement to be found in the TR book which I accessed through the Cousins website. Am I not looking properly or have I made a big mistake in assuming a replacement could be found? Many thanks.
  11. Hi I'm trying to figure out how to reassemble this mainspring the mouvement is Felsa 4017N . I join photo As you can see the arbor seems to be sealed on the wheel I tried to free him but there are some dents that prevent this. It seems to be one piece. I've replaced replace the spring into the barrel but can't place the arbor in place ??? Thanks for your suggestions
  12. I too have a Longines 7084460 with broken mainspring. What would be the correct replacement spring for it and do Cousins do one.? The number is engraved on the movement. This number is engraved inside the case back. 23204 114 Thanks guys.
  13. I'm trying to release the tension in the mainspring on an Elgin grade 144 pocket watch and unlike my grade 291, this one has a hidden click and the main barrel is tucked underneath a plate. I've looked online and found a single forum post stating I need to push a pin or very small object into a hole underneath the main barrel (which there is one) while simultaneously holding the stem in place to stop it from unwinding all at once. The problem is, I've got a single screwdriver that fits in this pinhole and after poking around in a few directions, it doesn't seem to be releasing the click. I don't know if this is the right hole (it is the only one) that I'm putting it in, if it's supposed to be on a specific angle at insertion, a certain depth, etc. I've attached photos of the side of the movement and a diagram of what I am doing. For what its worth, its a lever set.
  14. Hi everyone! I have recently acquired a couple of Vostoks which are giving me trouble. I know very little about watch repair, but am told that these ex-military pieces are pretty robust and easily fixable. Any advice appreciated! 1) a Komandirskie (apparently late 70s or early 80s). Worked like a dream when it arrived, then stopped. I took it in for repair, and was told that the mainspring has snapped. The watch has been sent away, but I'm now told that the repairer cannot get the necessary parts. 2) An Amphibia (same era). Again, worked when it arrived, but has stopped in the past 24 hours. It winds, but there is no response from the watch. Having spent £65 on it £40 getting a strap cut and fitted, I'm loathe to bin it, but am getting rather embarrassed taking my crazy Soviet watches into the repairers.... what I'd really like is a recommendation of someone who knows these watches and is happy to work on them for a decent price. Either a company or a hobbyist, I don't care. I know that lots of people seem to work on them, so hopefully I will be in luck..... many thanks, steve.
  15. WRT Members, I have a 50's/60's era Waltham men's wristwatch that needs some help. It's in amazing (as-new) condition, but while wearing the other day, it stopped - even though there should have been plenty of power in the mainspring. Disassembling for investigation quickly revealed the trouble. The screw-head from the ratchet wheel screw had broken off and found its way in to the train wheels and locked everything up. There appears to be no other damage - thankfully. But now I want to fix the movement. My preference would be to find a barrel arbor and screw - or better yet a complete going barrel assembly new with ratchet wheel screw. I am search eBay now - but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone knew of a good source for such parts. I haven't found any yet. NOTE: This movement is Swiss made, 7 jewels, marking on the base plate look like Unitas 1690/02 Any info/help is greatly appreciated. Kind Regards, -Paul
  16. Hi everyone, hoping I might be able to get some advice on re-assembling my watch movement. Working on a Bfg-866 movement from an older watch I got as something to practice and attempt to fix. I disassembled it and managed to get the arbour back in it's rightful place in the mainspring, which fixed the winding issue I had had with it. However, on putting the movement back together I got the train wheels all in place and made sure they could all move smoothly after fitting the wheel bridge back into place, however when I try to test wind it without the crown it would wind up and add tension, but nothing would move and the spring wouldn't unwind. I don't have the pallet fork or anything else in while testing this, and double checking everything seems to move smoothly, and the mainspring wheel had a tiny bit of play side to side, seeming to imply it isn't caught on anything either. Am I missing an obvious issue here? Feel so close to having it working and any advice to get it going is much appreciated (Apologies for any part naming mistakes, still pretty new here. If I can get this watch to run, as it so nearly did before these issues, it will be my first successful repair, hence my eagerness!) Thanks in advance Callum
  17. I have an ETA 2750 movement and I need to replace the mainspring. My catalogs don't cover this caliber. The current mainspring, based on my measurements has the dimensions Dennison (Metric), W: 5 1/2 (1.45 mm), T: 9 (0.13 mm), L: ~ 14 1/2" (368 mm). However, due to its age and the fact that it's been serviced before I'm not completely sure the old spring is the correct one. So my first question is are these the right dimensions for the proper mainspring for the 2750? My second question is does anybody know some part or catalog numbers for the correct mainspring by some different manufactures of springs, such as Marco, Nu Vigor, Sandsteel, etc.? I have some cabinets of mainsprings from which I might be able to get one but I need to know the a catalog/part number--some number I can cross reference to what I have. Hope this makes sense. Thanks.
  18. Hi all, Strange I have two Fema clock movements to repair, both with broken mainsprings and one with a broken click spring, can you please tell me, are the click springs readily available???has anyone bought one, if so where from? Photo attached of good click spring, this is the type that I need.. Hope you are all well.. Thx Len
  19. Hmmm, kind of! But........ It shows great potential as a hobbyist alternative, with some tweaking. After a back and forth with @Andyhull on another thread it got me to thinking perhaps it's not as useless as my initial annoyance led me to think, (I broke a mainspring trying it but to be fair the spring had been previously abused and the tool wasn't ideally sized allowing the coils to jump and tangle). I had a bit of a resize with sanding stick and scalpel and tried again and it's certainly got promise, I need to tweak the file to suit specific barrels but it's a simple quick 3 part print using barely any filament. Obviously not anywhere near as good as the proper bergeon winder but definitely cheaper for the hobbyist, (even if you haven't already got a printer and had to buy one first). Here's a video of it if anyone is interested, comments and ideas are welcome.
  20. Recently replaced the mainspring in a vintage watch (a Westfield 7j). Cleaned and lubricated watch. Worked fine for several days. Now I have a problem in which it stops before the mainspring is fully unwound--power reserve appears to be less than 24 hrs, but I haven't done a precise check. Just noticed this morning that it was stopped at about 0530. Prior to this the watch had good power reserve and the mainspring fully unwound--power reserve over 30 hrs. What kinds of things might cause this?
  21. Hi, I have a Rotary Monza I am fixing up. I disassembled the barrel and removed and cleaned the mainspring. I secured a copy of the parts list and it shows that as well as the mainspring, there is also a Brake Spring (part 775 on the picture). What is it, and do I really need it? Certainly Cousins does not sell it. I googled AS 1902 brake spring and ONE result came up of a Russian watch forum discussing this item. Apparently it is thicker than a normal spring and it seems to have some sort of bent over feature on it. Can I just make one using the old mainspring? If so, how long should it be? Is it really necessary? https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ru&u=http://forum.watch.ru/showthread.php%3Fp%3D5196915&prev=search ROTARY Monza AS 1902.pdf
  22. Hello. I am a hobbyist watch fan. I have recently serviced my Molnija pocket watch with caliber 3602(hand-wound movement). Watch was back in wonderful state (shown in photos) and ran roughly 40 hours during first day of test. After couple of days, I noticed that the watch stops after running about 30 hours although it was wound fully. I opened it up to check what went wrong and surprised to see that mainspring had substantial amount of power remaining. I guess the mainspring had about 10 hours of power left. What do you think had stopped the watch? Please help.
  23. I'm looking for a replacement mainspring for an old Elgin movement. CousinsUK seems to me to have the best "look-up" feature UNLESS your search comes up empty. The original spring is 0.1MM X 1.25 MM X roughly 270MM in length. this of course turns up nothing. What variable do you start with that is least injurious to the movement and accuracy when you must locate a substitute mainspring. I understand that heaight and length are rather fixed variables. Can I go up slightly in strength without too much badness happening? Thanks, RMD
  24. Hello! As stupid as it sounds: how do I oil the mainspring in a clock? I got Moebius 8200 for that. Thank you, Bogdan
  25. Hello. I am a reckless novice in the field of watchmaking and I always risk breaking parts when I work on watches. Of the parts, I often get confused about how to put back the mainspring in the barrel. Most of times, I make mistake by winding it back in to the barrel in wrong direction and mainspring gets curved the other way. (I do this by hand since I have no mainspring winder) Is there a tip on how to get started in correct direction??
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