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Hi. I have this Geneva clock which wasn't working for a long time. I decided to open it change it's battery and put back second arrow which fell of. I opened clock and tipped insides and gears fell of. I don't know how they were placed and know nothing about watches. I hope you can help me. These are parts that fell of. Thanks

Hi everyone, hoping I might be able to get some advice on re-assembling my watch movement. Working on a Bfg-866 movement from an older watch I got as something to practice and attempt to fix. I disassembled it and managed to get the arbour back in it's rightful place in the mainspring, which fixed the winding issue I had had with it. However, on putting the movement back together I got the train wheels all in place and made sure they could all move smoothly after fitting the wheel bridge back into place, however when I try to test wind it without the crown it would wind up and add tension, but nothing would move and the spring wouldn't unwind. I don't have the pallet fork or anything else in while testing this, and double checking everything seems to move smoothly, and the mainspring wheel had a tiny bit of play side to side, seeming to imply it isn't caught on anything either. Am I missing an obvious issue here? Feel so close to having it working and any advice to get it going is much appreciated (Apologies for any part naming mistakes, still pretty new here. If I can get this watch to run, as it so nearly did before these issues, it will be my first successful repair, hence my eagerness!) Thanks in advance Callum

As I'm progressing in my knowledge from just being able to regulate and adjust to minimize beat error I've been looking at the 7S26 that I have with my Seiko 5 beater watch. I've heard numerous mentions of being careful that you don't break the plastic gears, particularly in vintage watches. There is a solution for that. With a bit of CAD skills you can print replacement gears and parts. The cheaper filament based printing isn't precise enough but laser based SLA can print features down to 100 microns it should be sufficient for all but the tiniest parts. More than just gears and components it can also be used for custom tools within the limits of the materials used. The Form 2 is the printer I would look at unless you want to step into commercial pricing.