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Not true, there are very many competent, independent watch repairers in the US (and elsewhere). They may be able to repair what you think is not repairable, that includes obtaining part or even making new ones. For the US search AWCI directory, plus the Internet for reputation and customer feedback.

Second and third choices are definately not good ones, there is no gurantee replacements off ebay run any better. You can have a long story to tell and 2500 bucks short in no time. Did Rolex service your watch before? and do we know of a better choice. What is wrong if anything with your watch is unknown. Even if your watch keeps on loosing 20 seconds a day after a service, it's sentimental value is genuinely invaluable. Regards

eBay is one possibility, or a material house like Cousins If you are in the UK.

131_O1086-D5 MSDS englisch.pdf

A lot of this depends upon where you're located. In the US there are still independent watchmakers who have Rolex parts accounts. Of course they're going to charge about the same price Rolex charges. There's also independent watchmakers who do not have Rolex parts accounts and can still get Real Rolex parts I'm going to skip over how that occurs at least for now Rolex is slowly eliminating all independent watchmakers. he plan is to set up service centers I can the US there's one in Texas that will take care of the bulk of the actual servicing. In the store watchmakers will take care of all of the rest. As far as an independent watchmaker God's they are the ones that are disappearing but they're still out there at least for now. You don't need an all or nothing approach just find somebody competent To service your watch. Movement swapping would be a bad idea it sounds like your movements fine the axle breaking is common they can get replacement axles that's not an issue.

Sorry to disagree with most of the comments here, but: Height is 0.8 vs 0.9 - possibly problematic in terms of the spring twisting or rubbing the barrel/cap. Negligible loss in strength. Thickness is 0.103 vs 0.1 - in most likelihood the same. And even if there was 3% greater thickness, it would be negligible and compensate for shorter height. Length is 285 vs 260 - 10% longer. This will make little difference. Might shorten the running time slightly by consuming more space in the barrel and make negligible difference to strength.

For an honest watch repairer it's not a matter of formal warranty, but personal achievement and reputation. Unless criminal damage can had been inflited to the watch, repairers should be given a chance to fix what they didn't do right first..

Back in business after some hectic weeks before my summer hollidays. Now I think the most parts I probably need has arrived and it is time to finish up this service. Well I probaly have parts for a dozen or two but better to be prepared one never know! So to save space on the server the whole procedure is attatched to the following PDF, just as anticipated the build wasn´t completly straight forward. Here is the PDF: PUW1560D_Assemble.pdf Now it is off to a new adventure, a pure discorama..The PUW 1561D.

Hi found this under Unitas 6497-1 Its an ETA movement rebadged the tech sheet may be of some use to you . cheers Unitas 6497-1, 6498-1.pdf

Hello and welcome to the forum

Or even if one is not, since they ship worldwide at actual postal cost.

When I took it to the repairer, the second hand was running but neither hour or minute hand were moving, which I seem to remember being told was a canon pinion issue - so maybe it's just not been ironed out 100%. I assume he wouldn't try to charge me for another look at it since it's not been functioning correctly since i got it back, but who knows.

I agree with AdamC re-canon pinion could be the issue. However if it is happening in only one position it points to a hand position issue.

Hi Adam, Note that seconds hand stops too, which is not driven through canon pinion. In this case, movement stops altogether. Multiple fault is not yet rulled out. Regards

I’m sure I had this happen once when the canon pinion was slipping slightly. Just a thought. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don´t think there is any worries with this Certina.. A nice little watch.

That's not entirely true. I'm fairly certain I've seen a plethora of fake Seiko 5s... I've seen fake "co-axial" watches (with a cheap Tongji) that were just ripping off a technology, and not even a name.

Just a piece of plywood on top. I can start filling my drawers, which will make the Mrs. very happy.

Most likely the seconds hand is slightly bent and is just catching in certain positions.

Mechanically, in theory, and for most mechanical movements, you only need one extra 1:1 gear ratio in the train to run the thing backwards. However in practice, machining the extra gear, pivot holes, jewels etc, and moving things about to incorporate it would be a fairly major undertaking. Having said that, there appears to have been a small cottage industry in the former USSR converting 12hr movements to 24hr movements, so perhaps someone, somewhere could to this for you. EDIT: Things are a lot simpler if you want to hack a quartz mechanical clock movement to go backwards. -> https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Customized-Clock-that-Runs-Backwards/ EDIT2: I would suggest that reversing the coil wires, rather than "reversing the magnet" per the above instructable may be your route to success, since in many cases the 'magnet' in question is possibly a ferrite bar, and only becomes magnetic when the coil is energised. The permanent magnet in the thing is the rotor, furthermore, some mechanisms rely on a ratchet arrangement to ensure the motor only runs in one direction, so either the rotor, or the ratchet, or more likely both would also need to be modified. Flipping the rotor magnet, and reversing the action of the ratchet may not be as simple as it sounds. The rotor may have a bunch of sloped poles in it like a stepper motor, sloped to ensure it only turns one way. In theory, the same change(s) would work with *some* quartz watch movements, depending on their construction.

If you search "braking grease" you will find very many discussions on the subject. And they all apply to Seiko, or any other maker automatic barrel.

Why ask why?

Pitch it to H Moser. Sounds like their sort of caper.

Thanks for the material safety sheets for D5 mentally I always think of it as a mineral oil I didn't realize they had natural oil in their. Then there's something else that confirms if you look at the oil it has a grayish tinge to it? So it confirms what I always suspected there is molybdenum disulfide In the oil.

moebius Has such a weird website in that you can now download the tech sheets but you can't download the material safety sheets without having a username and password like that's going to happen that were to get one of those. I always thought D5 was a mineral oil but I did swipe the text off their website it looks like it has natural Oils it? I didn't even think there were using natural oils anymore. Group Microgliss D is available with several viscosities increasing from D-2 to D-5. These oils are a combination of mineral and natural oils with specific additives to provide excellent stability and good resistance to pressure. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neatsfoot_oil https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil

Neatsfoot - that's D5.

What could possibly go wrong. "I was only massaging neatsfoot oil into my pocket watch officer."

it's unfortunate that something that can look so pretty in a picture can turn out very poor. On the other hand it's an opportunity to make something much nicer. Like for instance when I'm doing this I'm looking at my computer and the desk I made so it fit the space that I had it met my requirements because I couldn't find anything that was suitable for a computer desk for me. As much as I like my watch bench I would really like modifications like it would be nice to have drawers on both sides of the bench. The entire left-hand side is open and basically it's wasted space. when you're starting out it seems like the bench is a vast open space but it's amazing how fast it gets filled up and then you run out of space.

I like it! It's one thing for a watchmaker to make their own tools, but their own bench too?

Depends what type you intend to get. I use the screw down type like the pic. Seems to give you more control but the princible is the same. The smaller die presses down on the inside of the crystal and contracts the outer rim. The watch front is then pressed down onto the crystal. Hold down while undoing the the large wheel. Hopefully the crystal will then be in place. Takes a bit of practise. A small circle of linen will prevent the top die marking the crystal.