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Like most of us, I look for perfection and oiling cap jewels with a regular oiler take a lot of practice and patience. I found myself having to reclean and re-oil over and over before I could approve my work. So, I decided to invest in an automatic oiler for this purpose and although very expensive I think it was worth every penny, and I was so happy about it that I decided to make a video about it. Please bear with me though as this was my very first attempt at video editing.

The 1A is great, makes cap jewel oiling a breeze and those fiddly Seiko train jewels which you're guaranteed to fit first attempt when dry but push out of place so you have to clean and re oil several times when you try to oil before placing. May I make a recommendation which comes from having much practise with spilling things over the years doing this and model kit making. Keep a lump of blu tack handy and place a blob on the bottom of any bottle you're decanting liquid from, until the cap is back on firmly. 9010 is very expensive to accidentally swipe across your desk.

I'm afraid that like most Swiss makers, Movado group does not provide parts to independent repairers. So the only choice is to make/adapt the part, or bring the watch an official service center.

Fine for life onboard a submarine perhaps, but not much use for timing the air remaining in your tanks. It doesn't even appear to be waterproof. They could at least have gone to the trouble of kidding us on that waterproof to 3mm was a thing. Mind you, some watches go completely overboard with their claims (pun intended). Examples here. If I end up 15,000m under water, I doubt if I will be worrying what time it is anymore, since I will presumably be on a different planet. The maximum known depth of water on planet earth is 10,994 metres (36,070 ft) (± 40 metres [130 ft]) at the southern end of a small slot-shaped valley in its floor known as the Challenger Deep.[2] However, some un-repeated measurements place the deepest portion at 11,034 metres (36,201 ft). (Source - Wikipedia).

34mm Accurist Divermatic with a 21j ETA 2452. OK, I get the "matic" bit, but "Diver"?? Err.. no. Regards.

General tweezer maintainence. https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1214-dressing-tweezers/

Hi Been there and had the same result, They were gently hammered straight on a small anvil with stroking action towards the tips, then on to the wet and dry 120 grit to smooth and polish, Now use general purpose tweezers for general work and my dumonts for the finer work and I am care full not to repeat the problem all the best

If it is a screw on back then yes. Snap on back I would say no. A good watch materials supplier will have them. If you look at the top of the forum see resources hover over that and you will parts and tools suppliers, click that and you will see a list of countries pick which which one you need.

Thanks I have often thought about the automatic oiler and it was good to see it demonstrated like that.

Using hammer straighten on anvil or any hard flat metal surface, then Grab a piece of sand papar with it, pull the sand paper out, repeat till you get the flat surface and the grab you want, next lay the sand paper on flat glass, as if holding something close the tweezers and reshape the outside and the tip. Avoid finer than original tip. A good tip is one that dose not foul as you exert little excess force while holding a round object like a jewel.

He had a discount running during the pre sale, i think it was 3 courses 2824,2892 and 7750 for $600. The 7750 course will be released shortly (apparently).

Thank you VWatchie for a very good and helpful video.

Thank you very impressive.

I have not personally reviewed their course content but one of my customers has contacted me and told me their content is useful. Never seen anything negative about them so it could be a good addition to your learning arsenal.

I can't say about that one as I'm unfamiliar with it but I'd suggest Mark's course would be good. His videos on YouTube are excellent and a good indicator of quality teaching. https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/watch_repair_videos.html/

It is a public holiday in Western Australia today (WA day), and today was a big day. The BSA in my avatar for the first time in about 5 years I took it for a ride today. When I purchased it, it cosmetically looks pretty good, but mechanically was not so good. I started a ground up restoration on it 5 years ago, but the project stalled a couple of years back due to me not having enough time and some of the engine work I did not feel confident to do. A few months ago my dad mentioned he was looking for a project to give him something to do so I gave him my BSA with the deal I would keep it licensed and pay for any parts needed that I hadn't already purchased and he could finish the restoration and keep the bike to ride until he was bored of it. He got it running a few days ago, so I dropped by today and took it for a ride. I have been looking forward to having that ride for the last 5 years. The bike still needs a little more tweaking before its 100% complete, now my dad is on the hunt for another vintage bike. Shame I had to sell my WM20 project bike a couple of years back. Anyhow, this is how it looks now, not hugely different from before, but mechanically much sounder. I'm sure it will give my dad another few months of fun before he gets bored of it and hands it back.

Hi James fitting train wheels and bridges is always a bit fiddley, assemble the train lay on the bridge softly then fit a screw into the bridge to hold it, do not over tighten it , hopefully this will hold the train wheels while you manouvre them in. I made some tools from soft sewing needles bent at different angles to allow me to jiggle the train wheels in.

This step usually takes a bit of time. I think that the escape wheel has a tendency to lean against the third wheel, so before I install the bridge I try to be sure that it rests on the fourth wheel instead, then I put the bridge as as softly as I can. Then it always needs to be adjusted with the tweezers until the upper pivot goes into its jewel.

After cleaning, the reversers should be treated with Lubeta V105. Immerse for a few moments, remove and blow with air to dry. It will leave a cloudy finish - this is normal.

Although not a video, this link may lend some help: http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/sdriver/sdriver.html Stu