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I apologise to all who have been horribly scarred by the listing. It was irresponsible of me to have failed to provide an appropriate warning of the graphic content contained in the link. To be fair I was still in shock having stumbled across the listing mmyself. Who'd have thought that searching ETA 2783 could be so dangerous.

He must have used these,

Today is the turn of the third watch I received back from George Clarkson. This one actually had to be repaired. Replacement circuit block was needed as well as a service and seals. I will be replacing the crystal at some time in the future and maybe re-lume the hands.

Another thing I've noticed with this particular movement is that it is very quiet, so I have to turn up the gain on the mic in my laptop otherwise the timegrapher software can't hear it and if there is the slightest noise in the house it shows up on the graph. The watch is actually running fine in this graph, but first the washing machine started to beep, then someone went upstairs, then the shower went on, and finally the fan kicked in on my laptop. All of which makes for a very confusing looking graph.

going 'Electric' today with original LACO engineered model from 1962. And while I'm waiting on status call might as well test out some movements.

I'm definitely an old school man. I like the idea of the all metal serviceable movements in the 7axx range. Although I do have quite a few 7txx, 5txx watches. Don't like the idea of mixing tech although I do have a couple kinetics as i like the case/dial designs.

Thanks, my picture is from AliX, same price but ships worldwide.

ro63rto you have three eye-popping beauties with those chronos. The last one is definitely a drool producer, par excellence. Truthfully though, as my arm hair is now white, I think it might look better on me. You could send it along for a trial and photo op!

It could perhaps be saved, but if angle grinder chique is your thing, leave it as it is. I have damaged a couple of dials along the way, perhaps the worst unintentional effect was when I attempted to touch up some black mold spots on a white plastic dial with silvered numbers with a tiny amount of kitchen surface cleaner. The chlorine evaporating from the bleach in the cleaner caused an instant bluing round the white plastic at the edges of the "silvered" numerals. Fortunately the dial in question had other more serious damage, so it was an experiment that didn't affect anything of major value, but it was an interesting result. The bleached spots were not actually in contact with the areas that turned blue, the effect appeared to be entirely down to chlorine gas evaporation from those bleached areas reaching the metalized parts. Having said all that, he could at least have made an attempt to clean the rest of the watch, it looks filthy. I wouldn't even offer it a place in the 404 club in that condition.

[emoji37] I'm gonna need therapy to unsee that monstrosity!

"This industrial sunburst steel design is incredibly eye catching"

Hello. Cannot identify it myself.... But check out the advanced research on the Ranfft database. It should help you. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-2uswk.cgi?1&ranfft Sorry I cannot make the research myself now.... But I am looking forward to reading more.

I don't think you'll need to adjust the hairspring. J

Yes, this will remove a snap back case. One of the chisel points is extremely fine. If you should ever have a case that is too tight for the fine point to enter, just tap a single edge razor blade into the slit and that will open it enough. The tightest watch I've ever opened was a Bulova dress watch and this tool opened it with ease. It's also good for removing bezels.

Hello all. This forum never ceases to amaze me by the way people are so willing to help out. Thank you so much for all of your very useful replies. It certainly helps to know that the ETA2390 HS will be a ‘direct’ donor part into the ETA2408. whilst I appreciate what NuceJoe is explaining about needing to set the length to establish the correct vibration period, it seems in this case that the HS will not require further adjustment? Is that correct? And to clarify, yes the BW has Inca shock system. [emoji846] Many thanks again!! Kind regards, Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm guessing the part you're looking for is the incabloc and not the KIF? The part number for Incabloc ETA balance wheel with flat hairspring is 721. When I put this part number into Bestfit, this is what I get for possible replacements: MATSYS says only difference between 2390 and 2408 is that Rolex/Tudor uses same balance assembly (2402) with KIF shock protection for its 21Jewel version.

If you decide to wait Otto Frei has sometimes good tips and trix in how to choose things and in this case they have written a couple lines about it on their page, Reading is Always a good past time. http://www.ofrei.com/page820.html

Thank you for your reply. It seems it will be taking quite a chance to buy the eta 2390 spring in the hope all the criteria match when I receive it. I think I will hold on an wait for the eta 2408 to come along on eBay. I might be lucky - no hurry. Thanks again, Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmmm.. Practice makes perfect, I'm impressed. If I did a similar video, I would have to bleep put all the bits where I launched the spring on to the carpet past my left ear, and then spent ages crawling round looking for it, or sent the movement flying out of the movement holder. I suspect any video I produced would be nearer 31 minutes than your 31 seconds.

The hairspring often are matched by what they call vibrations, so the first you should look so it vibrates/oscillates at the same frequency. Next you have to match the diameter of the spring with the diameter of the balance Wheel. If they are the samme then it might work. next you look at the balance staff, If these are the same the chances for success has increased enourmously since the collar on the hairspring will sitt tight on the balance staff. At RANFFT you can find the most except the diamater of the balance Wheel. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&2&2uswk&ETA_2390 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&2&2uswk&ETA_2408

No hate when you get how to handle them. Quite easy to put them back either with tweezers, or a shaped tip, as in this video of mine.

UPDATE: New case tube installed, + replacement (Seiko) pusher. Movement holder finally arrived from Australia, watch finished and working perfectly (+ 1 spd on the wrist). Massive thank you to Roger for his help. The photo is not very flattering- the hands look cleaner in normal light.

I quite often see early Borgel cased pocket watches on Ebay not listed correctly or just listed as pocket watches with no other description, they are worth keeping an eye out for, the early ones almost always contain high grade movements, they where expensive watches when first introduced so where fitted with Omega, Longines or IWC movements, many sellers dont know how to open the cases so dont realises that they contain very good movements so they are often listed at cheap prices. This I bought last week on Ebay, it arrived today, I knew it would contain a good movement as it happens it is a I.W.C it is dirty needs a polish to the case and crystal and has a hairline crack on the dial but at £45 it represents a very good buy. It has import marks for 1908 and was retailed by Stauffer Son and Co so the movement is stamped accordingly, but is a IWC manufactured calibre 64 the patent number on the movement refers to a IWC patent for stopwork on the mainspring barrel. This is the second IWC Boregel watch I have had in a year both bought cheap so keep a eye out you will get a highgrade watch at a good price if your lucky enough to spot one.

Hello after a long time. To help in purchasing one, I have published a price list of the lathe and accessories sold on Ebay by sincereclocks. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vSWfhOjlAfpI_c1EWF8MPSKnbIVIPoIH6mxCC1nVYQPQ8cJbiwBhLc1v597F9Z_AZteVKsfJ1lZDOOe/pubhtml That is the same classic "Geneva Pattern" C0608 lathe as described on the specialized website: http://www.lathes.co.uk/chinese-watch-lathe/ Its qualities have been already been discussed here and on many other places, so all I wanted to do is to summarize the options available, using a more conventional part naming.My opinion is that the product is still overpriced in relation to its industrial cost by a good 100%, especially for some parts. For example, the 3 jaws chuck sold for $155 is a common Furda K01-50 plus adapting arbor, available elsewhere for $60. And the seller make no discount on the lathe purchase with an accessory set, howeve a 5% discount is offered if the transaction is made directly. Since the same product is also sold under the bran Vector by Boley.de, and described as "inexpensive". I've included a summary of that option. I'll make no comment on its price, but at least the wooden box looks great. In another post I'll summarize the ready choices available for getting a new micro or mini lathe.

Hi Norbert with some of these old watches the only way of identifying them was from the style of the setting lever spring (flume) but to do so you need access to the flume identification books I have seen them on the net but bot cheap.

99% sure it's the same . That is a FHF movement you have .Need it for parts send me a PM and we work something out . Haven't looked in all my parts but if this is right i can have a go and search as i have seen that 39 somewhere else to.

Nice. Let me share a little tip. Solder paste. Specifically "Mechanic" branded Chinese solder paste from ebay. This stuff is used for SMD soldering, particularly small runs and SMD rework, and comes in leaded and unleaded. I would suggest the leaded version is better, as it is easier to use, but obviously, don't go eating it, and wash your hands after use. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=mechanic+solder+paste&_sop=15 If you buy from ebay, make sure you are buying the solder paste, and not just the flux with the same brand name. The paste has a built in flux, and consists of micro-beads of solder. The advantage of using this, over solder wire, is that you can be very precise, in the amount you use, and the location you put it in. It makes soldering tiny electronic components much simpler, and would probably have been ideal for this job.

This has to be the boldest attempt at marketing a complete b@lls up that I have seen in a very long time....... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-1979-Bulova-Automatic-ETA-2783-Custom-Art-Watch-Sunburst-Steel-Dial/264251494279?hash=item3d869dcf87:g:9tYAAOSw0lhclftJ What were they thinking when they did it? Who are they really trying to kid with that listing?