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Barnaby

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  1. If there was a problem with any of these parts wouldn't the watch run badly when on the winder?
  2. Escape and balance look OK. Positional variance isn't great but isn't terrible: DU +30 DD +20 CD +20 CL -13 CU -11 CR -70
  3. I have just finished servicing a Seiko Sportsmatic, calibre 410 (same as 6619). Everything is fine when the watch is on the winder- consistently losing 30s a day, so should be easy to regulate within +/- 10spd. Before going ahead with the final regulation I wore the watch (I usually find that spd is different when worn compared to my winder). That's when the strange behaviour happened: the watch gains 3 minutes in a day. Fine overnight. The next day gains a lot during day (around 20s per hour). When I put it on the timer everything looks good- all 5 positions within +/- 30 spd, (and CR -70). What could be causing this behaviour? One possible clue: the amplitude is high for a Seiko - 310 degrees.
  4. Thanks, that's very helpful. The movement I'm trying to fix is a hand-wind 17 jewel 158. It is not shockproof. I also have some spare parts from an automatic shockproof 158 (everything except a good hairspring). I would really like to "upgrade" to shockproof, mainly because with non- shockproof I have to totally dismantle the balance assembly to get to the cap jewel for cleaning and lubrication, and the stud doesn't have a screw. (That's how the hairspring got distorted in the first place). So, can I get the Balance Complete, Pin Lever, Shockproof (793.1), BFG 58 , use the spare balance cock from the auto 158, and the pallets from the auto 158, and they will fit and work?
  5. I want to replace the balance complete on a BFG 158 because the hairspring is distorted. Cousins has a choice of four: Balance Complete, Brass Finger, BFG 58 794 Balance Complete, Jewelled Roller, BFG 58 793 Balance Complete, Pin Lever, Shockproof (793.1), BFG 58 Balance Complete, Pin Lever, Shockproof With Finger (794.1), BFG 58 The one on there now is not shockproof, but I've got a spare BFG 158 balance cock with shock spring, so I'm assuming I can just swap that in and get one of the latter two choices. The problem is, I don't know what a finger is. Can anybody help?
  6. I think I'm interpereting this right, but I'm not 100% sure. So the arrow pointing towards the top of the page is labelled Heavy, and the one pointing down is Light. Interpretation 1(probably right): to make the strength of the spring greater, and the button harder to push, bend the hammer in the direction of the up arrow. Interpretation 2: If the spring is too strong (heavy), then bend the hammer in the direction of the up arrow. Second question: would you bend it with the hammer in situ? Or remove it from the movement first? Third question: when it says "the fly-back position may slip", is that because the second hand/minute counter hands may dislodge? Or something else?
  7. No, I already got a new one of those as it was missing when I opened up the watch. It turns out the end of the date jumper spring was turned up slightly, and catching on the underneath of the date guard plate. This was stopping the date jumper from operating properly. I've trimmed the end of the spring and now everything works.
  8. UPDATE: I bought the part (the 2556.1) and it is exactly the same as the original. (The movement is a FHF 905, not a 90.5). Unfortunately it hasn't resolved the issue- seems to be something funny going on with the date jumper...
  9. Thanks for the service manual, I don't know any German but it's still useful. The part I need to replace looks like the one in that manual- i.e. a smiley face.
  10. I had assumed that the 90.5 and the 905 where the same movement, just that some people forgot the dot!
  11. They have this policy: "Due to the specialised nature of the industry and the variables with customer specific applications we are unable to provide individual technical advice on your requirements. Our website does provide all information to enable customers to identify and select their specific requirements. If you need technical help we recommend you seek the assistance of a trade professional."
  12. I need to replace the date indicator driving wheel on a FHF 90.5. The part number is 2556. Cousins have most of the parts for this movement, but they have two date indicator driving wheels: one with the number 2556, listed as out-of-stock (obsolete), and one with the number 2556.1 (in stock). Unfortunately no pictures. So what's the difference between 2556 and 2556.1? Which one do I need?
  13. Once they're out they're a nightmare to get back in. Recently after one came out in the wash, after a lot of struggling to replace it I realised that the spring wasn't staying in place because the two arms (legs?) had become slightly compressed. With a pair of tweezers I expanded them slightly, then they had enough tension to stay under the retaining lip.
  14. A lot of the Seikos don't backrun- I think the 6119 is one of them IIRC. I use the GR25341x mainspring (Cousins have them) in the 6119, 6139 etc. Also, I read somewhere that the rate of the watch is often inversely correlated with the amplitude- i.e. low amplitude= faster rate and vice versa. An over-powered mainspring would cause I higher amplitude (I think?), hence a slower rate. Would be good to hear others' thoughts on this...
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