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Barnaby

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  1. Just to be clear, that's not my photo or the watch I'm working on. This is my watch (an Oris, cal 648 (auto)): It has an indentation on the inside of the case, opposite the crown tube. In my experience watch cases with that indentation have movement spacers like the one shown in the first photo. BTW, judging by his blog, The Watch Guy is a competent watchmaker- I don't think he'd install a spacer that was going to inhibit the movement of the rotor.
  2. Can anyone tell me what the name is for this type of movement spacer? I need to source one.
  3. I've just 1970s Oris Star with the intention of servicing/restoring it and selling it on. It has no crown. I can either buy a generic, unsigned, crown for about £2, OR buy an Oris signed crown for about £20. Would installing the Oris crown significantly (i.e. more than £18) increase the value of the watch, bearing in mind that it is not original to the watch?
  4. If there was a problem with any of these parts wouldn't the watch run badly when on the winder?
  5. Escape and balance look OK. Positional variance isn't great but isn't terrible: DU +30 DD +20 CD +20 CL -13 CU -11 CR -70
  6. I have just finished servicing a Seiko Sportsmatic, calibre 410 (same as 6619). Everything is fine when the watch is on the winder- consistently losing 30s a day, so should be easy to regulate within +/- 10spd. Before going ahead with the final regulation I wore the watch (I usually find that spd is different when worn compared to my winder). That's when the strange behaviour happened: the watch gains 3 minutes in a day. Fine overnight. The next day gains a lot during day (around 20s per hour). When I put it on the timer everything looks good- all 5 positions within +/- 30 spd, (and CR -70). What could be causing this behaviour? One possible clue: the amplitude is high for a Seiko - 310 degrees.
  7. Thanks, that's very helpful. The movement I'm trying to fix is a hand-wind 17 jewel 158. It is not shockproof. I also have some spare parts from an automatic shockproof 158 (everything except a good hairspring). I would really like to "upgrade" to shockproof, mainly because with non- shockproof I have to totally dismantle the balance assembly to get to the cap jewel for cleaning and lubrication, and the stud doesn't have a screw. (That's how the hairspring got distorted in the first place). So, can I get the Balance Complete, Pin Lever, Shockproof (793.1), BFG 58 , use the spare balance cock from the auto 158, and the pallets from the auto 158, and they will fit and work?
  8. I want to replace the balance complete on a BFG 158 because the hairspring is distorted. Cousins has a choice of four: Balance Complete, Brass Finger, BFG 58 794 Balance Complete, Jewelled Roller, BFG 58 793 Balance Complete, Pin Lever, Shockproof (793.1), BFG 58 Balance Complete, Pin Lever, Shockproof With Finger (794.1), BFG 58 The one on there now is not shockproof, but I've got a spare BFG 158 balance cock with shock spring, so I'm assuming I can just swap that in and get one of the latter two choices. The problem is, I don't know what a finger is. Can anybody help?
  9. I think I'm interpereting this right, but I'm not 100% sure. So the arrow pointing towards the top of the page is labelled Heavy, and the one pointing down is Light. Interpretation 1(probably right): to make the strength of the spring greater, and the button harder to push, bend the hammer in the direction of the up arrow. Interpretation 2: If the spring is too strong (heavy), then bend the hammer in the direction of the up arrow. Second question: would you bend it with the hammer in situ? Or remove it from the movement first? Third question: when it says "the fly-back position may slip", is that because the second hand/minute counter hands may dislodge? Or something else?
  10. No, I already got a new one of those as it was missing when I opened up the watch. It turns out the end of the date jumper spring was turned up slightly, and catching on the underneath of the date guard plate. This was stopping the date jumper from operating properly. I've trimmed the end of the spring and now everything works.
  11. UPDATE: I bought the part (the 2556.1) and it is exactly the same as the original. (The movement is a FHF 905, not a 90.5). Unfortunately it hasn't resolved the issue- seems to be something funny going on with the date jumper...
  12. Thanks for the service manual, I don't know any German but it's still useful. The part I need to replace looks like the one in that manual- i.e. a smiley face.
  13. I had assumed that the 90.5 and the 905 where the same movement, just that some people forgot the dot!
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