Leaderboard

If you haven't got it already try this....with the stem out tighten the set lever screw.push in the stem. it will not fully insert, but it will push the set lever in.loosen the set lever screw about a turn, and see if the stem will insert.if it does, tighten the set lever screw. you may find that set lever now engages the groove in the stem and things work as they should.

All miyota movements I've seen have a stamped number. Try posting a well lit and pinsharp focus pic or two. Someone might recognise it.

Hi @alex084614 - use the following URL ... https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwatch-wiki.org%2Findex.php%3Ftitle%3DMondia&edit-text= ... to see the translation from the German watch-wiki site about the Mondia watch company. As still happens today, a company that happens to make watches does not necessarily manufacture all the parts and Mondia would almost certainly have 'bought in' movements from a movement manufacturer to then put together watches of their own designs and sell under their brand name. Quite often the movement manufacturer will put their mark near or underneath the balance wheel. Can you get any close up in this area and see any such mark or a symbol?

Depends how tight it is. I know it sounds drastic what I said on how to remove the stem. Believe me it has always worked for me. If the stem has a little rust around the two-piece separating then it will be hard to pull away. You are correct about putting it back, just a little grease on the beak of the stem will help. If the stem is rusty, it might need replacing. Here is a photo so you can see what the two piece stem is like.

The 40g is used in Germany. g for "Gang" means tpi. What is the diameter of the lathe bed, 25 mm? Frank

Welcome from the other side of Australia. I look forward to your posts

you may than have to measure the inner dimension of the crystal if there is a lip. Either way it goes I would not recommend the use of any adhesive.

I was looking in my ancient bergeon Catalog. So in the watch material section is a reference to jewels and metal bushings for automatic watches.. Basically a comment that Jewels are preferred but for variety reasons metal bushings are used and material is hardened Beryllium. So they at one time had an assortment which was basically for AS, ETA & Felsa.. There is a reference that there designing another assortment for others Swiss factories.. But on the current website I can't seem to find bushings for watches anymore.

Thanks Guys, oldhippy, when you grow up with the poisonous creepy crawlies you learn to know what to watch out for and respect your surroundings. We've had several Tiger Snakes, that we've known of, in our yard over the last 18 years, which isn't bad considering we back onto a creek. And that same creek brings us wallabies and water birds, so that's a definite bonus. Too much sun exposure is more of a worry, and killer, in this country ecodec, It's the making of things that drives me Hey Geo, I didn't have the brass for it so... A friend of ours gave me the, then rusty, bobbin winder for an antique sewing machine to turn into the drive wheel. I drilled a shallow hole in the bottom of each foot and inserted a crepe rubber plug that just protrudes by less than a mm. This stops it from moving in use, while not making it 'wiggly' on the rubber. Here's a view from the other side showing the adjuster slot for the belt tension and, if you look closely, you can see a nail that goes through both clamp jaws (tight in one and free in the other) that I hook the 'tail' of the turns under. This makes the turns very secure, even before tightening the two wing nuts on the clamp. Have a good night guys. Cheers

Hi @StuartBaker104 - you've obviously done your bronze research but just thought I'd add in something for consideration... I know you're looking at phosphor bronzes in the main but there are also silicon bronzes. A good overview here ... https://www.avivametals.com/collections/silicon-bronze ... mentions "offers added strength in conjunction with the self-lubricity of silicon for excellent bearing and load properties". Handily, because silicon bronze is used for brazing, then rods of 1.6mm and 1.0mm OD can be sourced ... just the OD dimensions you need.

Welcome and enjoy the forum. Magnetism is very bad for watches.

Good advice, with the presumption that lever rightly is engaged with the clutch groove. It seemed to me however that Cduke complaining about, that the stem acts unusual dispite repeated try. I fully agree with yankee to tighten the set lever screw and proceed as he say. We never know, that just might be it. When it gets to the point where repeated tries fail to produce proper resilts, it gets frustrating, gets on ones nerves and that is the ingredient for ruining a movement. So , seeing a picture helps as it did when cduke saw pic of the keyless.he now is sure , he can do it.and that fearless feeling goes a long way, plus taking a look all components of the keyless to make sure only good parts are in when the back is closed. Cduke is hands on screwdriver .He pays attention. The stem has no choice but to function right. Regards joe.

As for super glue... it can be removed with acetone.

If the internal diameter of the case measures 27.80mm then a 28.00 low dome acrylic should be able to be fitted using a "claw". It needs to be tight enough to provide some sort of seal and not fall out but not so tight it won't fit!!. If you use any sort of adhesive it will make removing the acrylic somewhat difficult in the future (probably next week when a proper case back turns up). Also make sure that the crystal doesn't foul the stem &/or pushers and any moving parts. Photos of your watch front & rear may remind someone they have something in their scrap bin? Hope this makes sense, and helps keep another watch in use. Cheers Phil.

Hi friend, Welcome to this fine forum. You need to De-Magnetise never magnetise. Or De- Gauss as it is sometimes called. All good wishes, mike.

ok, I see whats going on. You used a thread pitch gauge that showed it 40 tpi . You can have a forty tpi thread of any diameter you want to make (in your case its 5.5mm), BUT the gauge you had was Whitworth and the standard for Whitworth for a 1/8" dia thread IS 40 tpi. i.e. a 1/8" diameter whitworth fastener will be 40 tpi and the leaf of Whitworth gauge assumes if you have 40 tpi dia is 1/8". btw its not a Whitworth thread but the gauge worked well to identify the pitch so mission accomplished (Whitworth is 55 degrees with rounded corners vs metric or imperial standard threads which are 60). Clear as mud? moot with a new set of collets and matching drawbar but I was wondering where the 1/8 came from

Hi Mark it is 7.9 mm which I suppose is as good as 8 mm. So I will get a universal drawer bar and 8 mm collets and I should be in business then. Thankyou

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. Keep any magnets away from watches.

Water is a killer of movements especially if allowed to dry out over a long period. I wish I could be as optimistic as rodabod regarding the Turner Omega, but I fear you will find some considerable damage when you strip it. These bumper movements are up there with some of the best for time keeping, so I sincerely hope I am wrong about the possible damage. Have a look at this, it will give you an idea of how to tackle the job:

Welcome Zeb I like you came through the same ranks, Imperial Remingtom and Underwood to name but a few, Got hooked on watches and clocks a long time ago I too an "Old" but still love the clocks and watches got a house full. This is the place for help for sure some learned guys on here.

Many here do have, or started off with a reasonable low dollar kit and if you get your fingers to do what you want them to do, you can get fairly far with them ! Once you get better, you most likely like / want to have some better tools. Whether these watch-tools ever going to be heavy enough to bring your other arm just as long as your tool-kit arm, that needs to be seen Just like Geo; curious what you get up to ......

You've come to the right place to develop your skills on the horology front Zeb. I'm looking forward to seeing what you get up to.