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philipk5

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About philipk5

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  1. I think either a Hattori VJ22 or VX32 should be a straight replacement.
  2. As the second hand moves (allbeit briefly) then I would assume the problem is mechanical rather than electrical. A line release tool which is basically a spinning magnet that A) moves the hands quickly on a quartz watch thus hopefully moving/freeing the mechanical problem. B) is useful for de-magnetising (and magnetising) small tools/parts. Costs around Ā£20 and in my opinion well worth having.
  3. Agree with both above. Also have you got a new cell yet? They are particularly pricey for the V157 / V158 (Ā£50+)
  4. Replacing the capacitor on this watch is not difficult, provided you have the basic tools of a reasonable quality, and the confidence to use them properly. 1)Separate the strap. 2)Remove the case back. 3)Unscrew the rotor retaining screw. 4)Remove rotor and drive wheel. 5)Unscrew the two screws that retain capacitor cover. 6)Remove capacitor cover and insulator. 7)Remove capacitor. Reassemble in reverse order. Problems you may encounter include:- trying to find one or both of the loose capacitor retaining screws (escapology on a par with Houd
  5. The screw screws into the centre of the bearing so the only danger of overtightening is to break the screw! It should be tight enough to stay put but not so tight that it breaks (obvious but completely useless advice!!!) Glad to have helped.
  6. 396 / sr726 battery for timex v cell.
  7. Let me have your address (by pm) and I'll send you the screws.
  8. Do you have any broken/non working scrap ordinary quartz Hattori movements such as the PC21 ? If so use the the small screws that hold the coil etc in place. As far as the rotor holding screw as suggested invest in a magnet and scour thoroughly the general area it went missing. Missing small parts do seem to reappear given time to drop out of orbit! Good luck.
  9. Same two capacitor small screws as in pc21 etc movement. Are you in the UK ?
  10. There should be some more numbers/letters on the caseback which should help identify the movement. The use of the words "water proof" was replaced with "water resistant" some time ago (1969ish) by Seiko. The serial number quoted indicates the watch was made in October of a year ending in 8 (ie 1968, 1978, 1988etc. Hope this is useful and helps. (I am pleased with myself for regarding who could do repairs not saying .......Roy Wood!)
  11. Whereabouts are you? If in UK I can send a small amount of Alum. Cheers, Phil
  12. Surely if the second hand is "pulsing" then the coil / circuits are OK, and the problem is a mechanical one? Such as dust or dried/sticky oil gumming up the works. Before delving into a replacement movement try a small quantity of lighter fluid on the mechanical parts (not so much that it floods through and stains the dial) &/or invest in a demagnetiser / line release tool which will spin the hands quickly, usually freeing up the movement. Good luck
  13. On the basis that the cost being minimal, and you do no damage by using glue, why not give it a go? I have successfully used acrylic crystals as case backs on several watches that would otherwise have been scrapped. Phil
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