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philipk5

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About philipk5

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    Maidstone Kent UK

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  1. There seems to be conflicting "information" when searching the net regarding when Le Coultre became Jaeger Le Coultre, and thus finding the latest date for my clock. There also seems to be no relevant info on Le Coultre and Sandoz, hence my posting on here. I think it has always been a desk clock and not a framed pocket watch? The overall size is 2 3/4 inches square.
  2. As part of my ongoing learning curve I am interested in finding out a bit more about the history of this clock. ( I hope the markings on the dial between the numbers are not Chinese characters!) The movement winds and runs but the hands seem to be loose and have a mind of their own. All in all a pretty clock (in my opinion)! Thanks
  3. Just to finish things off here are some more photos as requested
  4. I like to try and learn something new every day. Thanks to all the info provided on here I feel I am a couple of weeks in credit!! I am sort of pleased with the outcome, it will be less stressful carrying out any work. Many many thanks to all,...... now what battery goes in my Rolex Daytona?
  5. No problem, let me know if you end up with a good case, dial etc surplus to requirements.
  6. Blimey chaps, I wasn't expecting such a debate! All opinions and comments are very welcome. Seems like some much better photos of my clock are in order. Are there any particular areas to photograph that would help clarify the status? There is a phrase that springs to mind - "If you don't want to know the answer, don't ask the question." Genuine or not, either way I really like this clock. I am now somewhat curious for as close to a definitive answer(s) as is achievable from photographs. Thanks again for the opinions. Phil.
  7. Many thanks for the info. In the bottom left hand side at the rear it does say "Made in France" this seems at odds with the London on the dial. Would Elliott & Son have used French movements in the 50s? Or did the French use Elliott & Son dials? I thought it might be earlier than the 50s with the bevelled glass all round, and it just seems better made than I would expect from the 50s. Although I suppose all eras have good and not so good. It is really difficult to see the hairspring at the moment as it is doing what it should do. Will let it run down and re-assess with it stationary. Many thanks again for the info. In view of your last line oldhippy I assume you won't want to tell me how to access the regulator?
  8. As part of a recent swap/exchange deal I have acquired this carriage clock. It runs but is very fast (10 minutes in 24 hours). It seems to me to be of a fair quality and before I start tinkering with it I would like a bit more information such as age, history, and most importantly should it only be "tinkered with" by someone with experience of this type of clock. Any comments/advice appreciated. Many thanks, Phil.
  9. My watch owes me £7 plus a battery plus a bit of time. So would £15 inc p&p be any help or if not what would you want for your case etc? My main objective is to try and keep another elderly watch working and hopefully subsequently fund another "resurrection". I will open the case up in the morning and let you have some photos of the movement.
  10. I believe the 6530 has been obsolete since the late 90s. An "equivalent replacement" was apparently a Pulsar VX20, however that is now obsolete with no listed replacement as far as I can tell. My 6530 came to me as a non runner but after a bit of attention it is now running fine, but the case, dial and glass are not the best. I can sense a deal forming.....
  11. 6530 is the movement reference number, from my own investigations it was in production from 1982 onwards so your serial number would probably date it to August 1985. I have a Seiko 6530 - 5760 s/no 502572 so a couple of months newer (less old?). There are also reference numbers on the dial at 6: 6530 - 4370 these refer to the movement and (I think) the dial, hands etc
  12. I am in the UK and I got some from Asda (Pharmacy dept, not grocery section!) a few months ago. Took a while to explain exactly what it was, and even longer when the staff insisted on knowing what I wanted it for. Thought things would speed up when the Pharmacist was summoned but he claimed never to have heard of Alum. They referred to their suppliers catalog and a few days later it arrived. I dissolved as much as would dissolve in hot water and dropped in the crown/stem. After a week or so (prodding regularly with a pin) the crown was stem free. Not the quickest job but for me at that time it worked. Hope this helps.
  13. Or it could be the silver dimple, right side above where stem would go. Pull out / push back the stem and see what moves.
  14. Try using a claw crystal lift tool first. If you are lucky it may not have been glued in. Good luck.
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