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Removed some posts to keep this on topic in fairness to the OP

*have* I should quote right

If I do not buy it, i will ask the seller to list it on ebay and give you the link Cheers

Could be a few of this manufactures also . http://www.mikrolisk.de/show.php?site=280&letter=P&searchWhere=trademark&searchMode=exact&id=5#sucheMarker

That is a supercool watch. Sell it instead of destroying it. I am interested if the price is right

Changing the case would be very wrong in my opinion its a very desirable watch of the 1930's changing it would be an act of vandalism ! in fact the bulk of its value would lie in the fact that it has articulated lugs. Paragon was registered to three Swiss watch companys of note Buren S.A, Amida and Schild and Cie but it was also registered to a Brazilian company called J.F. Castro Araujo & Ca.

You're ruining it if you're changing anything about it. I like it as well!

Personally I think it is a great looking watch. It needs a new crystal & I expect service. Then fit a new strap and a great watch.

The customer is always right, so they say. If the watch were worth a good price, it would be best to keep it as original as possible. I do not know if it is worth anything. Someone on here might be able to help. My own thoughts, I like it just the way it is, certainly the dial and its condition, it adds character. I am a sucker for old things.

I guess we can never know the level of skill experience and tooling one may have on the other end. If the bore looks really sloppy, by all means, re-bore it. I’d even go so far as to say use an endmill, if it can get in without fouling on the opening for the clutch. Jig the plate on a 1-2-3 block, and indicate the large opening in the plate within 0.0005”. Place a Precision pin in the existing hole and indicate that without moving anything to see how close it is to center. If good, drill if not, mill. A drill will want to follow the existing hole; a mill will remove material while staying on centerline. Plus it will make a flat bottom hole... brass can be tricky regardless of low hardness- flood with plenty of oil while boring. thats what I’d do anyway.

I am actually starting yo see this now. Ppl have been saying just buy a watch with better mvmt. Or just keep the 7s26 in there. Which is fine with me I don't mind keeping 7s26. Because using the stem tto charge overtime will wear out.

On the swaps that I did the results was acceptable, provided that one is to change date only when needed and keeps the watch running. In any case I recommend to not frequently winding watches with a screw down crown, because that puts strain on the thread. Once you get a new SKX, plus NH mov.t plus SARB crown you're well already into new Turtle / new Samurai cost range. It is not a cost effective proposition.

Seen a few different ones. And talked to lot of friend that has done this mod. They all having issues with either date or winding. And even if you get the stem length perfect it can be hard to close or open. A SARB059 is the best option in terms of function .

There is like only one type type actually . Unless one is spoiled and wants to search and overpay for a SARB059 crown.

Welcome to the forum . I have done some movement changes . So if i can i will help you out. There is some problems with the crown. Buy the best AM crown you can get.

You can just use this website for fast and simple uploading. https://postimages.org/ One reason that might make all the gears spin when you're winding the movement is the fact that the circled part is somehow broken or missing. It's purpose is to stop the wheels and the mainspring from discharging.

I am well aware of the stories. Ingesting it is one thing. Inhaling it is another. By all means throw caution to the wind...

Regarding the broach suggestion, it might work, but I think I'd prefer to drill a hole with parallel walls for a snug fit if you were to go that route (ie. you were positive that the base plate was modified with a smaller hole). Do not use carbide bits for these jobs as they snap too easily. HSS is a far better choice.

Good luck.

Welcome to this friendly forum bumps.

One brief exposure to the small amount of Radium from a single watch won't kill or hurt. Who died were the "radium girls", not the owners of the watches they produced.

Welcome bumps,Enjoy

Quality or Ratners - don't mind. I'm enjoying fixing it. Stripped cleaned. New lift lever and balance fitted. Balance wouldn't run until I discovered the balance cap stones are convex on one side and flat on the other lol Just about to start putting the date complication back together.

Hi and welcome Bumps.

Welcome BR. Enjoy

Welcome to this friendly forum.

Did you try A-P to see if they can help? perhaps an authorized dealer near you can ask on your behalf? Maybe score a set of service documents. Guessing, I’d say a heavier oil. Load is pretty high and so is the speed when winding. Too thin and it would fling out I think. Eager to find out the answer. It’s a unique solution and avoids the common scuffed plates in the 15xx movements from Rolex.

It could be a standard datewheel if the dial opening is placed so that it is centered over the date when locked on a detent. Maybe not “exactly” 4:00 but if it’s off a degree, or rotated slightly from radial it’s fine- not noticeable on the wrist certainly . Look at it from a cost perspective: new watch company. Make all new dials AND datewheels, or just dials? I’m almost willing to bet it’s a standard date wheel and the dial aperture location is “tweaked” to acomodate it.

Just be REALLY CAREFUL messing with radium. Put paper down on your work bench, wear gloves and a dust mask. That stuff is really evil, and unless you have a Geiger counter, you have no way of mowing just how dangerous it is. I sound like a Nancy but seriously: be very careful with it!

I was going to say the hole in the main plate may have been damaged and a brass sleeve was made and installed, but sized for the smaller pilot diameter of the replacement stem... if the NOS one has the same problem, I’d broach the main plate hole enough for the stem. Note the correct stem may be larger diameter threads and you may need the correct crown, if you haven’t considered that already. PS: I always try to get at least two stems in case I cut it short... also, thread it through a die plate before cutting, and then bring it through the plate to perfect the threads after cutting. I like to square the end with a file and slightly relieve the first thread as well.

Welcome aboard!

Ok I was not aware of that. Not sure what calibers they were.

I have serviced a few Sekonda watches and found them OK to service with good results. I have had no experience with Poljot.

Without the shim the balance will be too tight.

I've seen these in Russian watches. I put the balance on and make a few turns on the screws and then slip the shim in.

Whilst on the subject of Bulova divers, here's my contribution from 1979.

It's the Sekonda Poljot 2614.2h. All cleaned and I'm starting the re-assembly and I noticed the shims...

I just got this Bulova Oceanographer Snorkel out of my storage . I sure like this one . Handsome looks to it in my opinion . I'm not quite sure how the bezel is constructed . It seems to have a clear glass / crystal material over the Pepsi numerals . It's nice to have it on again.....