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marcoskaiser

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About marcoskaiser

  • Rank
    Watch Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Brazil
  • Interests
    Tool making, Musical instrument making, model making, vintage watches

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715 profile views
  1. Thank you Nickelsilver, Rodabod and Jdm, It was a success! First getting rid of the part already started and full of bumps with a hacksaw took only a few minutes. Not difficult, and the saw came back still good, not blunt... I will adopt this approach whenever possible. picture 1 Then overcoming the lack of rigidity by working close to the chuck, with minimum overhang worked fine. Good chips, and a nice sound of metal actually being cut.. finally. Funny thing, and in accordance to what nickelsilver said, the recommendation to cut stainless at 115-135 feet per minute of surface speed does not apply to parting, and with a much lower speed the parting was easier. I used 140 RPM and it was fine. picture 2. Nice chips Then to the end. At some point the tool got stuck, and had to be resharpened. I was going straight, without any lateral clearance, encouraged by the smooth operation. Apart from this, a good experience. I finished the blank with a hacksaw, but only because the tool could be off-center after resharpening and was cutting less towards the end. picture 3. With these tips, I guess other people will find easier to part 316L. The lathe is still waiting for the granite bed. Eventually I will bolt it better. Thank you again for the help!
  2. I will bolt the lathe to a granite bed and then test this. Got enough of low standard jobs already.. thank you for the tip!!
  3. That's 100% approved A-OK especially when needing to part something that's challenging the rigidity of a machine. If on a larger lathe best to put a block of wood under the cut or the saw can surprise you when it gets through and nick the bed (I do the saw trick with the lathe running). Just remember to reverse the spindle direction id using a jeweler's saw where the cut direction is opposite. I actually cut and welded my toolholder so I can cut using reverse rotation. That’s why I could not post anything in answer of your kind tips! I may seem like those people who take more pleasure in cleaning the desk than getting the work done
  4. That’s very tempting, hahaha. I feel ashamed of letting people hear the squealing from the shop..
  5. Thank you Nickelsilver. I am using a BV-20 , 1/2CV, six-speed lathe. Tools used: HSS 12% and 50% cobalt. I will try to get rid of the ridges and cut again, with the slower speeds.
  6. Dear All, Any experienced maker could enlighten me on the secrets of parting 316 Stainless Steel? I usually hate parting big pieces on the lathe, but so far Brass and Steel could be handled. But this 44mm diameter 316 SS piece is challenging me. Tool has been shaped to 8 degrees of back rake and end relief, has side clearance and is aligned to the centre. Best speed calculated at 115-135 feet/minute equalling 330 RPM. But the parting tool looses every time. All I manage to make are extremely dangerous micro stainless steel needles, and dented tools. The chattering is horrible. Is it possible that I unintentionally hardened the blank while trying to cut, and now it's harder? Should I use a lot of coolant? Best regards, Marcos
  7. Just general knowledge in my case. Also the book looks beautifully typesetted. thanks for sharing!
  8. It is indeed interesting! Do you happen to have the full version in pdf? The link you provided obscures a few sessions for non-subscribers..:(
  9. Took your example and made me a balance tack as well. With an extra hole for a k&d tool that was hanging around without a base.
  10. Label in english for “french” movement?
  11. Thanks, nickelsilver! You mean, the first hairspring, the one still mounted is beyond repair? I haven’t touched it. If it is what you meant, it’s disappointing. Thanks for the clarification on the vintage tools!
  12. Dear all, I recently had the pleasure of finding a damaged hairspring needing care. My first! It’s an inexpensive orient watch, gaining 20 minutes a day. I am taking Mark’s fault finding course, and have other inexpensive hairsprings to practise with. I also got some vintage tools I’d love to use. Until now for me levellers were only the Oliver Cromwell people, but ebay never ceases to surprise... I could pass the first stages of correcting the coil, with two tweezers. But could not find a use for the vintage tools. Could you help me to figure it out? Picture 1 is the bent hairspring picture 2 and 3 the box of tas levellers picture 4 is the hairspring suffering under my tweezers now picture 5 shows the tip of the tools picture 6: from De Carle. Would this be the purpose of the levellers? The overcoil?
  13. Thank you Tmuir and watchweasol! roller removers by the dozen, then. Here are the pictures for n. 7. I guess whatever it was, it’s not worth fixing now. Number 3 is intriguing..
  14. Wood is surely more sustainable and cheap than brass... I noticed that sometimes people like clickspring (makes videos on tooling and clockmaking) use some kind of superglue to hold metal together. At 6:54, if you get bored...
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