Lc130

Hi All I'm a beginner and this is an AS1951 which I got working after a clean and oil. I didn't remove the mainspring. I have only a few few sizes of winders and usually have much difficulty with them. I did remove the barrel lid and ran it through the ultrasound. I then added a few dabs of 8200. The jewels got 8000 and the pallet stone 9415 (all Moebius). The amplitude is better than I usually get and the rate is ok. How would you read these pictures? Is all ok? What are all the stray dots? Thank you Charlie Dial up Dial down Pendant up Pendant down

HI All I'm a beginner and I appreciate all the coaching I've got from members here. Very helpful indeed. I just completed a service for an AS 1950/51 which I picked up as a non-runner (I gave up on it's date jumper spring from my other thread) . Looks great on the TG. The movement spacer is missing. My US supplier list these replacements https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/shop-bin/sc/productsearch.cgi?search_field=movement spacer Ranff gives us a diameter of 26MM (11.5 ligne) http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&AS_1951. The case is a large diver style. Would the 11.5 ligne assortment be the best bet? Thank you Charlie

Marc, Cousins confirms that you are correct.

Many thanks Marc! Yes, not worth the cost. Cousins wasn't very helpful at all in their form letter response. I've already imported one donor from the UK. The balance pivot was worn. At this point I'll move on to the next beginner victim. Charlie in Maryland, US

I'm a beginner. I've been trying to install this jumper and spring for a few days now. This is an AS 1950/51. Using a technique from one of Mark's videos , I'm able to get the spring in but the jumper then springs under the date wheel (it doesn't in the video). The date wheel is up against the raised outer edge of the plate. Doesn't stop it though. I've tried holding the date wheel in place with rodico but that always leaves a bit stuck under the date wheel. Is there a better technique? I've lost two springs and have one remaining. Thank you Charlie

Hi All I'm a beginner. I have a Bifora 115/1 in need of a complete balance (wheel and hairspring). The US supplier, J Borel doesn't have Bifora. Cousins lists these parts and I can't tell which is the correct one. I asked Cousins but their response was generic. Under 115.1 they list the following. What is the difference between "shockproof" and "ordinary & shockproof"? Any suggestions on part to order?? Pic of balance below. Thank you Charlie

Thank you!

Hi All I'm a beginner. This is a FHF 28. As you can see, the HS isn't right. Can you please tell me how to correct it? The last picture is one that's for sale on ebay. It's the best pic I can find of the correct end curve. It should look like this...but, how do I get it there? Thank you Charlie

Picked this up recently and putting it through a service. Also any idea of approx age? I'm a beginner and not seen this kind of end curve. It doesn't appear correct to me as the last coil is touching. Thank you Charlie

steel, or other non plastic. How likely is it to warp? Thank you

I did something similar here. Old balance wheel with different hair spring. I was told that balance wheels are paired with hair springs and don’t mix. I’m only a beginner but my problem is here

Hi All I'm a beginner. I've been unusually successful in bringing this AS 1950/51 back to life (just dirty and oily). I now want to polish out the crystal scratches. How do I safely remove the bezel so it's not impacted? I've not done this before. Bezel still twists and looks like there's a plastic ring underneath. Do I just pry at that notch with a screw driver? How do you get it back on? This is not a necessity. So if any risk, I won't attempt it. Thank you Charlie

Thank you. I made something similar by drilling into a brass plate.

Hi All Still very much a beginner. Next victim is an AS 1950/51. The cannon pinion doesn't go over the center wheel. It goes on this which is geared from the mainspring wheel (of course I don't know the correct name). Question: what is the safest way to push the pinion on. Likely easiest to do it after the train and train plate is on. But then the jewel would be taking all the force as the cannon is pushed on. Another option is install the cannon pinion as first step and use a metal plate with hole as support for the other side of the pinion/wheel. I bit fiddly, as I've tinkered with this. Lastly, use my finger on the other side. Though, uneven surface could deform the wheel. Any guidance? Thank you Charlie

I switched the fork with the same results. I guess I'm out of options other than to get a new balance assembly.