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I guess most of you would have been frustrated not having an exact size crystal for pocket watch repair. I got an idea from a tool I saw on eBay and made a simple sizer. I have found it works really well. Using a slip fit cement chuck I had on hand I bought a 10mm bearing from eBay ($1.49) and in the first picture you can see that I made a small cap to fit over the bearing from 12mm aluminium rod, I used some lock tight to secure it with an interference fit and them turned down a cement chuck to fit the inside of the bearing. I then glued some rubber (probably an old bike inner tube would do, its best if it slightly compresses and then you can see how tight it is) to the bearing end and did the same to the other chuck end and its good to go. Simple slide up the tail stock and carefully place your crystal so that it is held. You will need to adjust several times to centre it, then in the last picture I use a small diamond file like this to take a shaving off. I was amazed how much control you actually have and the slightly rough finish from the file aids glueing or you could sand for a smooth interference fit with the pocket watch. Not my idea really, I got it for nothing from Ebay!

Zodiac SST Automatic , 3600 BPH , on a Sting Ray strap......

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Try Luciano just outside Rome I buy bits and his postage is honest. http://www.gioielliboccacci.it/gioielli_boccacci_lista_ricambi_di_orologeria18.htm

One for the files for those looking for parts etc for top brands (Omega, Rolex JLC etc). Swiss site but easy to follow. Postage a bit steep but some hard to find parts. http://stores.ebay.ch/passionchrono/_i.html?rt=nc&_pgn=1&_ipg=192

That Zodiac is something else Im not a fan of gold watches but that's really nice Today's new arrival from Japan, a little xmass prezzie to my self In my favourite colour and a retro design but with a hacking 4R37 movement ( handwind too ). I want the Black & gold version also but they are harder to find

If the laquer on the dial allows, you can try some demineraluzed water on a q-tip. Cousins also sell finer sticks. Unless it's corrosion from under the paint, in which case I don't think anything can be done. Also, hands can be polished, there is some video on YouTube.

Well depends on your definition of decent but you certainly dont have to spend $30.00 in the last couple of months I have bought a 1950's Gylcine automatic for £6.00 a 1930's westend watch co for 99 pence plus £ 3.00 postage advertised as non working on inspection the only thing wrong with it was a piece of luminous paint off the hour hand had lodged under the seconds hand and prevented it from running, ebays about luck buy it nows pop up like the Glycine its a no brainer just buy at worst you have a movement that can be used for parts, but as it happened the watch runs. I've had a lot of non runners that just required cleaning to get running, plenty that just required mainsprings and a few that require balance staff replacement. There are plenty of russian pocket watches or wrist watches that can be had fo a tenner on ebay a good starting point for anyone, limit your search to watches between $1.00 - $30.00 and you may be surprised what comes up. Wayne

Car boot sales, auction houses and local papers. I used to get chaps come to me asking for old movements to practices on, so try other watch repairers.

That gear will only move when the stem is in the winding position. I am glad to be able to help. One suggestion on the cannon pinion. make sure is properly seated and that the date corrector lever is engaging the secondary gear that connects with the cannon pinion. This is very important. JC

the dentist usually has the best type of available magnification and lighting. i go to an opthomalogist (not optomitrist) every year. and don't get eye strain.

What I had when I was working eye glasses from a 5 down to a 2 the 3½ being the one I used most. Lighting on my bench I had something like the picture. I also had many strip lights on the ceiling and around the workshop some at waste high, other lights over machines such as lathes. With lighting make sure if you are close up the light doesn't get hot and make sure they don't cast a shadow.

Firstly unless you're working on particularly small movements (such as ladies watches) 5× magnification should be sufficient for general work. Fine or fiddly work 10x magnification should do. Anymore than that your head will be so close you will find it very difficult. As for lighting:- see pics of my scruffy old hobby room Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

For lighting I would recommend a watchmakers light. http://www.esslinger.com/dazor-30w-fluorescent-clamp-base-task-light/ Although a little more expensive, it will be worth the money. A few weeks ago I came across a very nice ledlight which can be dimmed with a touch of the hand, also you can adjust the colortemp from coldblue to warmyellow and all in between in small steps. It was only 25 euro but I like the features and the fact it does not get warm http://spotlightelectronics.com/reviews/review-livarno-lux-led-desk-lamp/ See also the thread about loupes which Will opened.

Found my services navigator a brother the right one is the new one. These are quite amazing little pin levers you just clean and oil them and off they go although I did have to adjust the hairspring collet to bring the beat error down on the new one it was way up.

Thanks for sharing!

It is a very nice addition to the collection... The last one on the right is yet to be restored...

Wearing a 70's German Helbros cal R75 today. Was a non runner just needed a good clean service and crystal and now is another one for my collection.

Here is the video I put on YouTube with the technique. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tQ4LHi0r1g Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have not used a Roxer but I have used both the Bergeon and Calypso wet testers. The wet testers will push compressed air into the watch case IF there is a leak. Only when the air is compressed do you plunge the watch into the water. If there is a leak then the watch case will be filled with compressed air and water cannot enter the leak. Then with the watch still in the water, you slowly allow the air to de-compress. Any air in the watch will want to escape the case and it will do so through the leak. Because air is escaping, water cannot enter. You will see air escaping because bubbles will shoot out. If you see air escaping then you know there is a leak and the location of that leak. So - if the above is all done correctly then the test is safe and you should not get water in the watch as a result. You can then dry off the case and deal with the problem and try again. If you suspect there is a leak before hand and you just want to know the location, you can do all of the above with the movement removed. This is easier if you have a screw-down crown, but if not then place the crown and stem in the case and secure it with a little tape - then perform the test. The Dry testers (Elma, Witshi) are safe tests as they obviously do not involve water at all. It is not a good idea to use the term "Water Proof" as no watch is water proof. We should describe it as "Water Resistance". Here is some further information: Water Resistance Classification The "Water Resistant" mark has come to replace "Water Proof" and is now described by the following ISO-Standard 2281: Declaration on dial or back: NO DECLARATION This model is NOT water resistant. Any water contact should be avoided. WATER RESIST This model is resistant to minor and Accidental Splashes. Greater water contact should be avoided WATER RESISTANT 30M (3 ATM / 100 Feet) * Protected in everyday life, bathing, accidental splashes, short swimming or car washing - it is resistant against perspiration, water vapor, rain drops. It is tested for water resistance up to 3 ATM, and must be able to survive 30 minutes under water at a depth of 1 m (3 feet) followed by 90 seconds under a pressure corresponding to 30 meters WATER RESISTANT 50M (5 ATM / 160 Feet) * Protected in everyday life, bathing, accidental splashes, short swimming, car washing, parachuting, hang gliding and skiing - it is resistant against perspiration, water vapor, rain drops. It is tested for water resistance up to 5 ATM corresponding to 50 meters WATER RESISTANT 100M (10 ATM / 300 Feet) * Protected in everyday life, swimming, snorkeling, mountain climbing, parachuting, hang gliding, skiing and all kinds of sports challenges It is tested for water resistance up to 10 ATM corresponding to 100 m WATER RESISTANT 200M (20 ATM / 660 Feet) * Protected in everyday life, free diving without scuba gear, and all kinds of water sports. It is tested for water resistance up to 20 ATM corresponding to 200 m WATER RESISTANT 300M (30 ATM / 1000 Feet) * Protected for scuba diving to a depth of 30 meters, for 2 hours. It is tested for water resistance up to 30 ATM corresponding to 300 m WATER RESISTANT 500M (50 ATM / 1650 Feet) * Protected for scuba diving to a depth of 50 meters, for 2 hours. It is tested for water resistance up to 50 ATM corresponding to 500 m ​ * The metres value does not relate to a diving depth but to the air pressure used in the course of the water resistance test. (DIN 8310, ISO 2281, NIHS 91-10)