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Hamish

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Hamish last won the day on December 6 2016

Hamish had the most liked content!

About Hamish

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 07/09/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne Australia
  • Interests
    Finding old watches and restoring them. Collecting same. Making watch bands out of all kinds of leather. I have a good sized workshop built up over the years that has most of the equipment I need. I run watch repair classes for friends. Love the challenge of working my way through a problem.

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  1. Hi, I guess anything can be salvaged, but at a reasonable cost?....these watches seem quite popular at the moment so I certainly think it is worth a good try. I think this type of thing can be very rewarding as well. Its hard to tell what components have rusted too far as to be usable, but I think you are on the right track with using a small amount of penetrol etc. The dial might clean up nicely with a light touch of Rodico (take care). Personally I would also clean any springs carefully and rub down to a flatter finish to avoid stress risers which lead to breakage over time. Nice project
  2. Just my view, but I think the stem should come out after releasing the stem retaining screw. I think there is a movement spacer in there as well that is probably held fast by possibly corrosion and or the remnants of an o ring. Penetrating oil might do the trick, but also might cause dial staining. See if you can gently tease out the spacer after movement retaining screw removal or at least see if you can get any movement in it, this would provide a clue. I provide this advice without any knowledge of this watch or movement.....one thing for sure though, when it comes out you will know exactly what was holding it in place. I guess the trick is to find out before something gets damaged. Good luck
  3. Good job! I would be very nervous getting that broken screw out. For me concentration goes into overdrive when working around coils. Thanks for posting.
  4. If I could add to the topic (it's a good discussion).... I think there is three components to tools and the use of them, 1. Having a quality tool - not necessarily the best quality, but one that can do the job without unintended consequences. Perhaps this would mean that you would be wiser to get better quality if you are using the tool regularly as well. Most folk might prefer higher quality screw drivers and tweezers. 2. Having the right kind of tools for the repair work you anticipate doing. Don't use a tool for a purpose for which it was not intended (unless sure of the outcome). 3. When faced with a less routine repair task, thinking through the approach to a likely successful conclusion. This is common in lathe work. In my view this leads to less breakage and slips etc. A long time ago I bought a Chinese milling attachment for my lathe...I could not afford a Lorch (nor could I find one)...I needed to strip it down and dress it carefully. This took several hours, but was rewarding in the end and I bet, for what I use it for, it is just as good as the German one.
  5. I have worked on a few of these and in general they don't create too much difficulty for overhaul. The concept of operation is simple where the battery supplies power to an electronic circuit that outputs a pulse or wave form into a coil that drives the balance wheel via fixed coil on the board and permanent magnet on the wheel (some variations have a coil on the balance wheel). From there the wheel itself drives the movement. Interestingly this is the reverse of a normal mechanical watch 'power flow' where the balance wheel absorbs the power through the drive chain from the mainspring. There are several variations to the above though, but the general principle applies even to tuning fork movements which have no balance wheel or course but the mechanical energy is derived from the fork, again into the movement drive chain. (take extra care servicing these...several very delicate parts) In my experience you should find them relatively easy to work on and fault find. If the movement does not work then try to resolve between electrical or mechanical issues with the most common being open circuit coils, although I had a hard one to fix recently (Citizen Cosmotron) where the permanent magnet appeared to be damaged by the previous owner attempting to de-magnetise it. Luckily a spare was available. Check all electrical contacts and continuity and clean (Rodico does the job, or an ink rubber). Many of these old movements can be tuned to keep excellent time and are well worth repair..... Good luck.
  6. A bunch of good advice above. I remember saying I would never work on a quartz watch but once folks hear you 'fix watches'..... One trick that has helped me quite a bit is to look at the little stepping motor magnet. Sometimes they gather a tiny chunk of metal something that needs to be removed. Your quartz tester will tell you if the pulse is happening which would be a further clue. At other times I have found that very gently giving a wheel a slight hand to start is all it needs, but this helps mostly with watches that have been stopped for some time. Perhaps try cleaning the battery contacts too.... Good luck
  7. I agree with the comments above, I think the answer is to make sure your blades are properly dressed and snugly fit the slot. Suggest have a close look at the slot to see if it damaged or shallow as well. I use a very find ruby stone for dressing screwdriver blades. These stones are available from the usual sources. Go well.
  8. Hi Miles, I would be happy to help, but I live in Melbourne. If you have a steady hand and good eyesight or corrected eyesight, then for a small investment you could get a crystal remover from flea bay or similar. You can also get simple tweezers and crystal glue - which should take care of the attachment issue (I would never use super glue) -- from similar suppliers. Tiny amounts of glue are needed. Best of luck.
  9. Hi Miles and welcome. Everyone loves military watches :). looking forward to posts
  10. Hi Radiumgirl, I think you have done a pretty good job of this resoration. No doubt you enjoyed it and if you are like me you would have picked up some skills from the job as well. Like you I have some 'overpriced watch tools' just ask my wife, but my preference is to try and use old tools as much as possible in restoring old watches. You have raised a number of questions in your post and I will now try and give you my two bobs worth. What other watch tools do I need? I suspect you are further along the path of watch repair that your post suggests, but here goes. My vote would be, given the lack of space you say you have, are a good set of tweezers and screwdrivers. These are readily available from Daves Watch parts, Uncle Larry's (second hand) and eBay. You said you had a staking tool, that is great. Other small things I can think of are a loupe of some kind, a small anvil or steel block, small pin vice, broaches, small file, brush, rodico, oilers and oil supply and glass dust covers, demagnetiser maybe a mainspring winder...Not sure if you have all this, but all this will fit in a drawer somewhere. I would say that you should have easy access to many of the old second hand American watches that will be fun to work on. Watches like Elgin, Benrus, Bulova etc these will be fun to restore and are quite easy to use to build up your skills further. Good luck with it all!
  11. All good ideas above. What I would suggest is to apply very light pressure to the bridge while you nudge wheels back and forth, again, very lightly. This tends to make them try to spin and moves the pivots across the jewel face and with any luck you get a satisfying click as the bridge fully locates.
  12. Hi, You might have it all sorted by now, but I have used this successfuly in the past. This is if you have a lathe. (Hope that link copied over) You do have to fiddle a bit to get the crystal central, but if you keep the speed slow it is not crucial. The other tip is to use the file across the work and not aligned with it. I learnt the hard way that crystals will be easily scratched if the file slips off the work. The plus side is that the crystal remains circular and you dont seem to compromise its fit as I think you would do with a dremel of sandpaper. The suction cup seems simple and a good idea too.
  13. Great job Nick Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Hi the one I used was not like that. See photos it is much smaller and still of high wattage (heat). The globe just unplugs but I have not had to replace it as yet. As I said this will involve rewiring so be careful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Hi, I have an almost identical machine and it had pretty much the same problem. Others will have different opinions I guess, but my thinking was to get rid of the exposed element which I did not like and utilise something else. I would suggest that as these machines use mains power, unless you are sure of what you are doing, get qualified assistance. What I did was to utilse a 100 watt halogen globe and socket. In Australia I was able to access 240 volt versions together with the appropriate socket. Once installed plenty of drying heat was available and the low height of the globe permitted a good gap between it and the basket. Good luck
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