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Hamish

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Hamish last won the day on December 6 2016

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About Hamish

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 07/09/1953

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne Australia
  • Interests
    Finding old watches and restoring them. Collecting same. Making watch bands out of all kinds of leather. I have a good sized workshop built up over the years that has most of the equipment I need. I run watch repair classes for friends. Love the challenge of working my way through a problem.

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  1. Famous painters might paint a water colour in 4 hours. 50cents paper and paints. worth a fortune. Go figure. I heard a story about Picasso who used to sign table cloths in restaurants after entertaining a large group and never got billed. He also said he could buy a house if he painted something.... Sure there is clever marketing in watches, but I don't think the inherent value is actually in the materials...perhaps its something else less tangible.
  2. Hi, I bought a copy one of the Horia example and was impressed with the quality. Prices seemed to vary wildly and I bought it from Ali-Express for around $120 (AUD) delivered.
  3. Hi, My vote is to use the 9501 straight out of the 2ml bottle...I can also see the sense in using a small spatula though...I have had to shake the bottle from time to time and stir it occasionally with a wire rod as it seems to separate (harder/runny sections - maybe getting a bit old) for some reason. My habit is to open the bottle, use it where required and close the bottle straight away...works for me anyway...
  4. Hi there... Just a couple of thoughts for you. Check you have not accidently placed any oil on the balance spring, check its not magnetised and check (you said it was filthy) there is not some residue or gunk after cleaning that is causing the spring coils to stick...any of these things will cause that massive +300/day issue. If you can look at the action under magnification, you should be able to pick up such an abnormality. Cheers
  5. ' the collectors bought most of the parts. vin' Yes, I believe that is so...I think (again from memory) the one above is the 2210 movement and fairly common still - or at least, last time I looked. They are interesting to work on and the main faults are the coils going open circuit. Another issue I found was that where plate meets a contact requiring cleaning...once done you are frequently rewarded with a satisfying hum. Also consider if at first it does not start on its own, give it a sharp flick with your index finger...Agree that reading the manuals first is always a good start. Cheers
  6. HI, just a couple of thoughts off the top.. How fast is it running? If a few seconds a day, then you will able to adjust with the tiny tabs where the magnets almost meet (they rotate). If it is several minutes fast then it may be 'indexing'. This means that I assume you have placed a 1.5 volt battery in there and I think these movements were meant to use the 1.35 volt batteries (mercury) that are no longer available. I have had this problem from time to time. I also believe you can obtain some kind of insert to manage the excess voltage. I also recall that if the watch is in adjustment the effect settles down after a day or two of operation. I'm also pretty sure there is a lot of forum info on this on the web on these watches and I'm not saying my approach was the best fix either as there are some that say it is possible to damage the coils with the excessive battery voltage, but this was not my experience. To perform any adjustments on the pawl or detent you will likely need a microscope or very powerful magnification. Go well.
  7. HI There, My suggestion is that if you have not done this before is that you look to Ebay and see if you could get a selection of old Perspex crystals. These used to be available fairly cheaply. This way you could practise on a couple, but more importantly you could identify one closest to the shape (size is unimportant as this can be trimmed) of the original. If you want to go down this path, feel free to use your Dremel to remove the excess, maybe a small diamond wheel is best, but use coarse/finer paper the closer you get. From my experience the Perspex is easy to scratch so use those sticky labels to cover both sides to prevent this. This approach has worked for me and the end result can be pretty close to perfect. Go well
  8. Hi, I guess anything can be salvaged, but at a reasonable cost?....these watches seem quite popular at the moment so I certainly think it is worth a good try. I think this type of thing can be very rewarding as well. Its hard to tell what components have rusted too far as to be usable, but I think you are on the right track with using a small amount of penetrol etc. The dial might clean up nicely with a light touch of Rodico (take care). Personally I would also clean any springs carefully and rub down to a flatter finish to avoid stress risers which lead to breakage over time. Nice project
  9. Just my view, but I think the stem should come out after releasing the stem retaining screw. I think there is a movement spacer in there as well that is probably held fast by possibly corrosion and or the remnants of an o ring. Penetrating oil might do the trick, but also might cause dial staining. See if you can gently tease out the spacer after movement retaining screw removal or at least see if you can get any movement in it, this would provide a clue. I provide this advice without any knowledge of this watch or movement.....one thing for sure though, when it comes out you will know exactly what was holding it in place. I guess the trick is to find out before something gets damaged. Good luck
  10. Good job! I would be very nervous getting that broken screw out. For me concentration goes into overdrive when working around coils. Thanks for posting.
  11. If I could add to the topic (it's a good discussion).... I think there is three components to tools and the use of them, 1. Having a quality tool - not necessarily the best quality, but one that can do the job without unintended consequences. Perhaps this would mean that you would be wiser to get better quality if you are using the tool regularly as well. Most folk might prefer higher quality screw drivers and tweezers. 2. Having the right kind of tools for the repair work you anticipate doing. Don't use a tool for a purpose for which it was not intended (unless sure of the outcome). 3. When faced with a less routine repair task, thinking through the approach to a likely successful conclusion. This is common in lathe work. In my view this leads to less breakage and slips etc. A long time ago I bought a Chinese milling attachment for my lathe...I could not afford a Lorch (nor could I find one)...I needed to strip it down and dress it carefully. This took several hours, but was rewarding in the end and I bet, for what I use it for, it is just as good as the German one.
  12. I have worked on a few of these and in general they don't create too much difficulty for overhaul. The concept of operation is simple where the battery supplies power to an electronic circuit that outputs a pulse or wave form into a coil that drives the balance wheel via fixed coil on the board and permanent magnet on the wheel (some variations have a coil on the balance wheel). From there the wheel itself drives the movement. Interestingly this is the reverse of a normal mechanical watch 'power flow' where the balance wheel absorbs the power through the drive chain from the mainspring. There are several variations to the above though, but the general principle applies even to tuning fork movements which have no balance wheel or course but the mechanical energy is derived from the fork, again into the movement drive chain. (take extra care servicing these...several very delicate parts) In my experience you should find them relatively easy to work on and fault find. If the movement does not work then try to resolve between electrical or mechanical issues with the most common being open circuit coils, although I had a hard one to fix recently (Citizen Cosmotron) where the permanent magnet appeared to be damaged by the previous owner attempting to de-magnetise it. Luckily a spare was available. Check all electrical contacts and continuity and clean (Rodico does the job, or an ink rubber). Many of these old movements can be tuned to keep excellent time and are well worth repair..... Good luck.
  13. A bunch of good advice above. I remember saying I would never work on a quartz watch but once folks hear you 'fix watches'..... One trick that has helped me quite a bit is to look at the little stepping motor magnet. Sometimes they gather a tiny chunk of metal something that needs to be removed. Your quartz tester will tell you if the pulse is happening which would be a further clue. At other times I have found that very gently giving a wheel a slight hand to start is all it needs, but this helps mostly with watches that have been stopped for some time. Perhaps try cleaning the battery contacts too.... Good luck
  14. I agree with the comments above, I think the answer is to make sure your blades are properly dressed and snugly fit the slot. Suggest have a close look at the slot to see if it damaged or shallow as well. I use a very find ruby stone for dressing screwdriver blades. These stones are available from the usual sources. Go well.
  15. Hi Miles, I would be happy to help, but I live in Melbourne. If you have a steady hand and good eyesight or corrected eyesight, then for a small investment you could get a crystal remover from flea bay or similar. You can also get simple tweezers and crystal glue - which should take care of the attachment issue (I would never use super glue) -- from similar suppliers. Tiny amounts of glue are needed. Best of luck.
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