Leaderboard

Battery and crystal change for 100% bio local produce. I'm happy, what do you think?

I must admit I am not a lover of quartz so very rarely repair them. I either change the entire movement or change their batteries. However I do have this book which just about covers everything you need to know about quartz.

If you look at the pictures found at the link below they look the same. Then if you look at the third link and click on the parts a lot of the parts do cross reference to the Omega. If the word chrono Is a shortened version of the word chronometer then the answer is no. Then this watch is not considered chronometer grade. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Omega_1481 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Tissot_2481 http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=TIS_2481

I have used the little plastic pots with plastic top too. Still do for certain jobs. And I have experienced some static cling. But I find myself using these bait trays from Plano $2 USD more often and they are sold as static free. They work. I add little post-it notes for part ID and I too, take tons of pictures who I then give to the owner as part of the description of what was done to the watch. People seem to like that and are fascinated by what I explain combined with the pics I give them. I put the pics on a flash drive and give it to them. Most say they've never seen anything like it and never thought twice about what goes on inside or what it looks like. Love their reactions. The trays and dividers are adjustable.

I would say current consumption is somewhat important if you don't want to be changing the battery every few months. The gear train of a quartz watch is so delicate that testing it by turning the wheels is not a good idea. And with a stepper motor at the other end, you can't get the wheels to spin freely. Without a current test, you'll never know if there is a problem with the circuitry or resistance in the gear train. That's the reason why some watches stop working soon after battery replacement. I test the current consumption of my quartz movements with the Bulova Accutron meter. It might not be as accurate as a Witschi but it'll do the job.

I've made a number of new additions to the K and D Inverto staking tool reference site including:Section for Inverto accessories1958 version of the K&D tools catalogHigh-resolution photographs of a Inverto Deluxe 18RTwo C.& E. Marshall staking tool catalogs (large format and small format) with stake and stump listsAt this point, I've exhausted all of my reference materials. If anyone has any references that I haven't posted and is willing to share, please let me know.

Hi littlewatchshop, Thanks for the reply! I will try your approuch and let you know my findings. Kr, bert

MKS come in at 4.7mm too, and I think that some Favorit do as well. However, in my staking set bits and bobs box I have founf some that are just 3mm, so where I would suggest that most sets are 4.7mm, there could well be some out there that buck the trend. Cousins carries a whole range of Bergeon stakes separately, I have replaced one or two in my MKS set that were damaged that way.

yep I would agree with clockboy, the case has to split there, otherwise how would the makers get the dial in.

It looks like the case splits here:

And some Lufkin stakes too. 4.7 mm.

I have a complete Marshall set and I've mic'ed K&D, Marshall, Bergeon and Boley stakes and they all mic to 4.71-4.76 mm, so my guess is that MIGHT be the same across the board? Now just cuz I said that a rogue staking kit will be revealed to mic at something different. You watch.

Looks like a fair exchange to me. Lets see the taxman try and get his cut of that!! ?

Hi Michael, Was out of the frame yesterday (Hospital). Sorry to hear of your predicament, Companies all over want staff loyalty but are not loyal to staff. Add to that jumped up management(theorists) and its not a secure climate. Like Old Hippy said its good to talk so keep us all posted. Glad you are keeping busy .Take car and safe you are amongst friends here.

Please guys, don't worry about the alcohol bit. It was just a tongue in cheek comment. Tomorrow will see me get up in the morning and keep on preparing an old aluminium table & two chairs for repainting. I am looking forward to getting that done as I am then starting on my Hettich table clock. I will be sure to post up photos as I work on that. I also have to get my synthesisers all connected up again as I have been chasing an electrical hum. I think I have found it now. Onward & upward.

I'm sorry to hear that. But as one door closes, another opens. Perhaps it is in the bigger plan of of the The Great Master Planner for you at this moment. Do not dwell in self pity and DO NOT succumb to alcohol. Take this down time to equip yourself with new skills so that you will emerge better and stronger tomorrow.

I'd be more concerned about your physical health, having been busy working for thirty years, I am afraid, retirement will be an invitation to ill health. Whatever you choose to keep you busy, same amount of physical activity, no more, no less is certainly most suitable. Good luck pal.

If it's any consolation I made a good living in horology but England is so different to Oz. Don't get me wrong but booze is not the answer. Here you are amongst friends and as they say it's good to talk.

Sorry to hear that Michael 1962. Will you try other companies or are you thinking of a complete change? It's a lot to deal with. What ever you decide I wish you all the best.

I make balance staffs (and all other components) from a hardenable steel in its annealed state. Suitable rod steel would be O1 or what you'd probably find called silver steel in Australia. https://mcjing.com.au/silver-steel-rod.html Hardening and tempering is quite simple. If you really want to make it from prehardened steel you can find that at watch material suppliers. My experience with it is old vintage Bergeon "blue steel" is rather uneven in hardness in the same bar, and modern assortments tend to be too soft for staff work.

Depth mic?

It is beautiful. Some things you just have to admire. I do.

It's a great plan except? If you look at the Cannon Pinion Way up above feel notice that it's shiny on top? This is a sealed canon pinion egg as a really nice look on the dial when hands go on and it's a nice shiny center. There is no way unless you drill a hole to put anything in. Thanks for this I knew that the number converted to the new numbers I just didn't have the list handy.

Obviously the canon pinion And center wheel should be able to rotate.. Somebody probably pop them together dry and their locked in place. Try some penetrating oil and see if that will loosen things up so you can pull the canon pinion off carefully.. Then usually it takes a while with penetrating oil to soak EN so given a while it's not usually instantaneous..

agreed the fun is in knowing you completed the task is the true reward. You don't need much to get started with vintage Timex. Just search eBay for vintage Timex lot and there are plenty to be had. They do not require any fancy or expensive setup to get started with. Know that if you get hooked in to the hobby your work area will start to look like this before you can say "Saltpepperketchup" when ordering an egg and cheese with Taylor ham on a Kaiser roll. ?

There are many alternatives: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/aluminium-pots-in-aluminium-box https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/compartment-boxes-with-divides-bergeon I personally prefer aluminium pots - they are very convenient and safe. I would stay away from any plexiglass containers (static is not your friend).

I have the similar book on Ferranti electric clocks...

Hi Andy, I received my book: METAMEC, THE CLOCKMAKER, DEREHAM and I think I found your clock in it. It seems to be the model 779. There was a version with alarm and one without it. The hands do not seem to be the same though. I did not know but the METAMEC stands for 'Metal and Mechanical Products'. The book is fantastic, at least thats what I think. The link above says you can have it for £10 + P&P I paid £15 +P&P. Sorry for the picture quality in the PDF i have not played a lot with our little scanner yet and noticed the horrible result when I finished. The book has better pics and color pics too. I scanned a 3 pages about Automatic Tea Makers. It might give you and idea when you go to eBay again. ? metamec.pdf

Remove the old gasket (it's i-shaped, or perhaps L-shaped - not too many options), clean the bezel, order a new gasket (usually they are dirt cheap) and new crystal, do it right: - when bezel is clean and dry, place the gasket in the grove - place new crystal on top perfectly horizontally and give it a slight push with your fingers (just so it stays in place) - then use your newly purchased crystal press to push the crystal down. Do not forget to place some microfiber cloth (or something similar) to protect crystal from being scratched.

Leave it there, you want the gasket fully and well seated before fitting the crystal.