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That is a valid concern. Normally voltage for resistance measurement is not published or hard to find, so I used this great site to select a cheap one (AN101) with a low voltage. Unfortunately in my case it never arrived from China, but I'll try again. https://lygte-info.dk/info/DMMReviews.html Clipping together two probes and wires shouldn't be a problem for one that intends to repair watches.

Just give it a good clean in petrol. watchweasol no need for brush and chalk with these types of movements, that is for polished movements.

Hi Hector depending on how dirty the movement is I usually give it a good scrub down with either Petrol or white spirit and oil. The old way of polishing the plates was with a brush charged from a chalk block (still available) when dried and pegged out. all bearings/pivots checked . Reassemble and lubricate with Windles clock oil its the best . all the best.

I have been working my way through Marc’s lesson videos. I bought a Seagull 6498 to use in the process. All went well until I reinstalled the balance wheel. When the watch did not run, I now think due to no end play on the balance staff after watching Marc’s video on the subject, I removed the balance wheel and let it and the bridge get away from one another. See photo. The end of the hairsping separated from its attachment. Is this repairable? I watched Marc’s video on straightening hairsprings, but I am not sure about attaching the end. I could not find a Seagull hairspring so I ordered another movement. My original movement is now working well with the new balance wheel assembly.

I think this is what you are after, I'll provide the 7750. ETA 7750 Manufacturing Information.pdf

Hello! My name is Bill and I am a 5th grade teacher in California. I have always been a DIY kind of person, and do all my own work on my cars, house, computers, etc. Before teaching, I had lots of hands-on type jobs, including construction (mostly floors and trim), groundskeeping and farm work. In the classroom I am a major proponent of project based learning and do plenty of my own projects in my off time. Hardly a weekend goes by where there isn't grease on my hands or sawdust in my beard. Somehow I always knew that I would be opening up a watch one day, and that day is finally here. Thanks for having me, and thanks in advance for all that I'm going to learn here.

I think a heat gun would work great, I'd be surprised if it's not already frequently used by engravers and jewelers.

That's a Landeron, maybe a 47, or 48, or 49, check ranfft and see. There are a lot of little nuances between them but they're essentially the same- until you need the exact right part!

Ah! Now I understand you. You could possibly use epoxy, in the same way that people use it to attach a nut to stuck-on screw down backs. I use acetone to remove.

That's unfortunate, but don't despair. You can approach this in two ways, if you're nervous about trying anything with the block... well... if it came out it should mean there's a way back in without that, but it is harder, i've only had to do it one time, the slot barely showing proud of main-plate by a micron, you need to use rodico to handle the spring, and peg-wood to make adjustments, poking it here and there, and just try to slide it back in somehow, that is once you've located the opening. (at least that's how i did it) Another time i did have to use a staking set to partially punch out the block, this made getting the spring in a lot easier, but it is a job in and of itself, not especially difficult per se, with the right punches and a bit of precision on your part, but as i'm sure you understand you probably dont want to upset the blocks original position too much, getting it back in more or less exactly how deeply it was to begin with, i can't imagine there's a lot of tolerance there before you'd cause a problem, it worked out well for me though.

If it is a flat crystal, with any generic. And even if it's lightly domed, etc. No magic needed, but tools and technique

I always find it interesting the approach each of us takes to solve a problem. For instance this question I read the question then I start scrolling down the page I notice the first reply from from watchweasol It's sort of the technical guide. Which I find interesting did anyone bother to look at the technical guide? The other thing I noticed was when you look at the picture the stud has two screws right away that's a clue that something strange? That means the first thing I did was look at the technical guide and we find out there very proud of the Triovis system For regulation. I snipped out an image were they talk a little about it and then they refer you to Section 5 unfortunately section 5 doesn't exist? But if it did exist even though it doesn't it would look like the other image I attached. This is why it's always good to look at the technical documentation if you've something weird.

I have seem the issue where the outer edge of the spring slips against the barrel. It could be either the tails or the small dibble that catches the tail is worn. Either way this not an easy fix since it requires a full tear down and rebuild. So what to do about the required parts? Buy a lot of 'fixer uppers' or 'spares repairs' as they say across the pond. What happens as a result of this of course is now you will want to repair them all. BTW: The watch shown is a European model from what is commonly named the "Sports Series". This is distinguished by the use of Meters rather than Feet printed on the dial. Need a NOS mainspring and barrel? I have them but shipping cost more than the part.

Yes you want the powder silver nitrate, it's more like clumpy crystals like coarse salt. Cream of tartar is potassium bitartrate. It's been a while but I think I paid 80 bucks for 100 grams last time I bought silver nitrate 5 or 6 years ago. That's a lot, 20 grams or even 10 is plenty for a number of clock dials.

Cremor tatari = Weinstein Frank

Oh Thank you. so in order to move that regulator. The screw is the only way? I disasseble the cock but I didn't see the disc

I've been away for a while and thought I'd ease myself back into the watch world but... ended up jumping in with both feet for this one- I've wanted one of these for ages and figured the market had passed me by but now I get to do the happy dance! Can't wait to get started on this one.

I think any qualification is a good thing to have, and will be attractive to an employer if that's how you wish to work. I have a BHI diploma and the certificate makes no difference to me (I don't have an employer, and I rarely tell customers about my accreditation). However, what it does give you is a huge amount of knowledge and skills. Experience alone is great, but sometimes it does help to see how a well-respected authority believes how to do things properly. Another thing which is worth thinking about is what sort of watchmaker you wish to be. There does seem to be two camps: those who simply repair watches and swap out defective parts, and those who take an interest in the finer details of how watches work (the theory) and practical part making / tool making / repairing. If you don't like technical theory then some courses may come across slightly "dry". But I find it fascinating.

Thanks for the reply, there Is the data so i think Is a m25. When i load the main spring the click seems ok, but the mainspring snaps, so i think that i try to change the mainspring and the barrel arbor, but the only way to have this parts Is buying another complete Watch. If you know where to buy this piece tell me. I've already disassembled and assembled this movement but Is very difficult. Thank you again for the reply. I leave you a photo to make you understand why I want to restore it.

If you study did the wostep website you would've noticed this link? http://www.wostep.ch/en/ecoles-partenaires/nicolas-g-hayek-watchmaking-school-hong-kong You will notice there the same group as the people running the school in Florida. http://www.nghayekwatchmakingschool.org/Home.aspx I have another link notice they teach both the 3000 hour course and the technician course the same as the one in Florida. Also notice that other than your living expenses and food is your problem but no fee is charged for the course. http://www.nghayekwatchmakingschool.org/The-Schools/Hong-Kong/General-Information.aspx The wording on the website is interesting it's open to Hong Kong citizens and international students so would that make you an international student or a Hong Kong citizen as you're already living there? Unfortunately you can't do your day job and go to school as there isn't enough time in the day to do both. But maybe could take a break for your job for a year Now to add to the confusion of things? So here's possibly a confusion the school above associate with the Florida school's tuition free schools are teaching the wostep program and are sponsored by Swatch group. Then down below we have two schools that are teaching the SAWTA Program Let's look at the first school instead of teaching that 3000 hour wostep course they teaching 3600+ Hours If you look at the fine print its tuition free you just have to purchase a few tools at 7000's. Oh and in case you think can bring in your own tools know you have to buy their toolkits.. On their school application form they can download there is a reference to you have to have the proof that you have the ability to work in the United States and you intend on doing so upon comparative of the course? https://lititzwatchtechnicum.org/ Then there's the other school teaching the program https://northseattle.edu/programs/watch-technology-institute If you read carefully both of these schools are teaching of the Rolex sponsored Two-year SAWTA Program although North Seattle at least on the website makes a reference to wostep and I don't know if they're actually doing that anymore. They used to get certificates from both schools with the opportunity of also awci would come and give their certification so conceivably that end up with all three. Unfortunately not remembering something that's really vital for this discussion. Somebody asked me the cost of going to North Seattle with the tools and I asked David one of the instructors and he gave an answer which I can't remember unfortunately. On the website all a dimension is the $5000 a tools for which Rolex is partially funding that. If you leave early you have to give back to staking the set because they ended up purchasing bats and including it in the kit and that armor but the cost PICkit price doesn't cover the costs the staking set the seller basically giving it to you. The reason I'm bringing this up is tuition free what's the catch? The North Seattle school you pay for your tuition but you get out early on Friday and if you're lucky you might have a job out there and watch repair. You can also work over the weekend so a lot of the students have jobs outside of the school which is nice it helps pay the cost of living. But I'm not seeing it on the website of the first school I think you required to work for them for a while or you may work they are in your off hours of just not seeing. So you do need to be careful on tuition free whether there is perhaps a catch. There may not be with the Swatch group technician program because they're in desperate need of technicians. But just something to remember that tuition free doesn't always mean free. But seeing as how you have a school in the same city that your EN you should go and visit them or at least call him up. Considering the small quantity of watch schools scattered across the planet the chances of living in a city that has a school is very very small and it be a shame to not make use of it.

Working for an HK company is a great start, if you could relocate there for 2 years, your company could provide at least the introductuon letter for HKIOSW, the total cost of HKD 60,000 is within reason, and the certification a top one. https://www.iosw.com/en/school-hong-kong-3

That is more than a lot of entire watch companies do! What about your employer, is there no chance to increase your range of activities and experience within the company? Maybe they have contacts to the schools in Hong Kong (there must be some surely?) and would support you? If attendance isn't an option, then the BHI correspondence courses seem like a good option. They are widely recognised in the profession, which is important. You can also look at this link which is a good compilation: https://www.great-british-watch.co.uk/watchmaker-training-and-education-how-to-become-a-watchmaker/#outside-uk

It's a Wostok 2603 or if it has a calendar 2605. The regulator is as far as it will go over to the "-" or slow side and the hair spring has been pushed way out of round. First thing to try is to carefully move the regulator back into the centre position making sure that the hair spring isn't snagged between the pins. That will hopefully give the hair spring a better shape and you may find it will then run. Judging by the state of the set lever screw hole this has been mauled by a butcher or two in its time though so there could be any number of things wrong with it.

Here we have a bonus watch I got in a lot a few weeks ago, thought it was quite interesting since it is a SLAVA watch made in Russia for import to Sweden. The dial shows EXACTA SLAVA 21 jewels imp. The watch is powered by the double barrel SLAVA 2414, a quite nice movement by the way.

Let’s talk about the tourbillion movement watch’s. I find this fascinating and so visually stunning. Why aren’t they used more, since they do counter the effects of gravity better then traditional movements.