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Had two 8m25 watches, the case on one was scuffed back to brass and the other was missing the battery cover and screw and had a cog floating about inside, made this out of the two, I kinda like it, what do you guys think? Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Took a while, and several partial assemblies and disassembles. But it’s finally done. And running surprisingly well for my first wrist watch. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

A lazy Sunday with my Oris.

Beginners often ask about where to find this or that crystal, as it happens replacing is cheap and easy as long they are just flat round ones. But the crystal may not be found as generic, or can be expensive, or hard to find. So good old polishing is needed. Here again my technique key points: Crystal mounted on case, that will make it so much easier and safe to handle. Caseback removed, check below why. Jeweller's motor or other rotary tool with a fixed stand. You really want a screen like a carton box. Plastic roundel from a credit card as big as its size allows. 600 grit wet paper. No other grit is needed, as it will lose abrasiveness already after 20 seconds of use and become comparable to finer grades. Try to got directly over the deepest scratches, but without insisting too long (as in 5 seconds max) so to not dig valleys. Find the right compromise regarding the work angle, going flatly is good, but isn't even reasonable to try to sand the entire surface even. Look at the white streaks from inside the glass while working. You will see if you're getting right at the scratch or nick because if so the defect will show up in contrast Be patient with the paper stage. After a while it becomes hard to see if all scratches are gone, but you must remove them all before going to the next step. You should have made a mental note or drawing of where the defects are, rinse it up and observe at different angles. In difficult cases you may need to replace paper once or twice. Crystal will look now very foggy, that is normal Once happy refit caseback and crown, or rodico in the tube. The diamond paste is much more messy and you don't want that inside the case. Mount an hard felt wheel like 7 or even 10 cm dia, 2cm thick, place 1 cm of diamond paste (No. 10 or 14 good, but others work too) on the section toward you while keeping the crystal horizontal. Let the wheel grab the compound one bit a time, keep well pressed up and go over until all paste is used and you can present the entire surface to the wheel, rotate the watch and collect the past on the other side, place it on the crystal again on the other side. You can't do more than 30 - 40 seconds of work before adding fresh paste. Usually I do 4 or 5 passes like that. When working with paste is almost impossible to see the result with cleaning up. Clean with dishwasher detergent, dry it and observe well. Very likely you will notice some small defects, up to you if you want to go back to paper, concentrating on the spot only. Final polishing can be done switching to another wheel and finer paste, no less that 10 as these have no practical effect. Cerium oxide is another option but I didn't try it extensively so far. Below what I did today in about 20 minutes. The central scratch was quite deep. No final polishing or cleaning yet. After:

Although disappointed I am aware I am talking to far wiser individuals, therefore ill go back to modifying Vostoks for the time being. Thank you all

I have found that in many cases when recommending to a total beginner to not attack valuable, sophisticated or difficult pieces only achieves the opposite result. I suppose is a male proudness psychology process. I would love to see the young man here showing better judgement than the various others that certainly regretted their hubris, as they were never seen here again after they used the forum to declare war to an heirloom, rare, or expensive fine watch.

Looks stripped down enough to have recieved a good bath, did you brush clean too? Cute watch too.

Looking like the stray dog that followed you home,is this 21 jewel seiko powered westclox.

Hi all, I recently purchased a 1979 Bulova Super Seville (ETA 2834) that needs a bit of work, with the hope of being able to do some of it myself. Watch repair/upgrades look so easy on YouTube, but I am quickly learning I am not adept at it (I removed the stem to clean the crown and watch case, and on reinserting the stem, the movement became stuck in the calendar position and I do not have the confidence to fix it myself) I have posted two posts looking for advice on finding parts for this watch (1) (2), but so far have had little response. I am hoping to upgrade the crystal to sapphire with a cyclops, and change the bezel to a new upgraded on. The issue I am running into is sizing. I have read that the Bulova can use Rolex parts, but there is inconsistency with the sizes of parts I can find online. The only post I can find online with measurements of the Bulova has the crystal at 29.2mm/30.2mm. Googling seems to suggest that a Rolex Datejust crystal is 29.5mm/30.5mm. Would 0.3mm difference likely cause fitment issue or is it within tolerances? Similar story to above with the bezel. This link suggests that the inner diameter of the Bulova is 30.2mm, yet Rolex bezels seem to be 30.4mm. Would that 0.2mm cause a loose fit? I've seen online that there are bezel resizing tools - are these commonplace? My hope is that purchasing a crystal and bezel will reduce the overall cost and potentially guarantee the quality. But equally, I do not want to purchase parts only to discover they do not fit. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Just started on my first attempt to restore a Wostok Kommandirskie. Winding stem broken but crown still around with remaining stem in the crown. The 2414 movement appears to be in surprisingly good condition and the casing should be ok with a bit of cleaning and polishing. But...when searching for a winding stem all that show up seems to be kind of ”integrated” stem and crown. Are these generic to fit all kinds of casings? And how does these screw-down crowns work? I suppose there must be space for the stem to move in when the crown is screwed tight? Grateful for some advice from some of the guys with a special interest in these russian wonders! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I am only 18 and pretty new to the art of watch mechanics and i am currently in the process of repairing a nearly 100 year old JLC. However I am having a awful time trying to remove the movement from the case, tightening the screws makes the movement more loose and vice versa. I was wondering if anyone could lend some assistance on how to part it from the case. Thankyou

Should not attempt putting bridges back on, since arbours would not neccessarily fall in corresponding hole. If you must, a prudent procedure can be advised.

Having power in the mainspring is up to you, but letting it down with the click spring makes it easier because when it has power you can make it bank to the other side when trying to seat the impulse/roller jewel. Although the way to hold the balance assembly is highly subjective, letting balance dangle for the only purpose of installing you will not have any issues with Seiko. i can guarantee you will be more likely to damage the pivot or the hairspring trying to hold the assembly together with tweezers, this method requires a level of skill. I just would not let the balance dangle on a tack unless necessary and for only short period. Seikos are the very first watches i started working on and this is the way i did it for years never had any issues.

Minuter counter jumper is too tensioned, or minute counter wheel misaligned, minute counter jumper may be under or over minute counter wheel. The other issues are probably just due to needing a service.

As long as you haven't damaged/broken anything you're fine (for now). The correct way was to: remove the case back > remove the crown and stem > try to screw in the 2/3 screws on the edge of the movement and then simply rotate the movement slightly until the screws fit into those specially made gaps. this way the movement will come out without forcing it. Hope this helps. I think the watch is from the 40s...

I mount the stem on a stem vice and unscrew, The problem you may face is when the crown dose not want to come out peacefully, normally if glue is previously used, rust ....so on, the solutions are: Soaking in aceton , use of rust killer, penetrating oil, heat ......so on, is to be used accordingly.

Unscrew it ? Some have had adhesive/cement put on before being screwed in which can make things more complicated. I'd say it's worth dipping the whole thing into some cleaning substance first (one that is safe and won't ruin the crown if it's plated) and then try and unscrew it. Maybe use a small pin vise for the stem...

Yes, also because the writing is in Chinesem and a genuine Seiko balance packaging is quite different. Nothing strange that it comes from Japan, they trade with China just like we do and probably since a longer time

These were the Chinese ones. Very good result then, another member reported that the one he got had a bent pivot.

Along with my grandfather's Timex, this Waltham (provided by my loving wife and daughter) holds a special and life changing place in my heart. Hopefully I am only one in a long line of the custodians (including my grandson) to care for these special pieces, as well as, the rest of my collection. He sits on my lap and asks "You fixen bem Pop?" I told him if I don't get to some he can get to them for me. I hope he does.

Building one own is certainly a possibility but to get results more quickly a brand new machine is not crazy expensive. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32532654243.html

awesome job!

please don't destroy a valuable watch. this forum will help you "catch on quick" cheers

Adjusting the lift angle on a Timographer only makes a marginal reading difference IMO

Good job. I’ll need to do this in a few weeks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It's very good value, likely taken a full wind, but not exceptional Note that 7S, 4R and 6R all have 53° lift angle, check attached. 52° is the machine's default, and produces a very close amplitude value anyway. 7S26C.pdf7S26C.pdf

Very good job! I've never seen such an amplitude on a Seiko movement, are you sure you had the correct 52º lift angle on your timegrapher?

I am guilty of the misdemeanor too. ETA 2834 is a hi beat variant of 2824. Yes the circular stem hole is beveled , the screwdriver blade should be the widest that can get in the oval hole, so to stop at the bevel. The watch has a classic vintage look. Wear it in good health. Best wishes joe.

Well done, done a great job

Cheers guys

There is no way you're going to pay twice. I suppose that from Jan 1 what Cousins and all the other UK sellers will do is to stop charging 20% VAT for orders going to the EU. Maybe the EU countries will start applying VAT from that day, or maybe a little later. Small orders can fall under the allowed, so you can end paying less.

Excellent result and very impressive amplitude for a Seiko 7S26 I must say. Great looking watch enjoy.

Welcome to the forum, A few pics would be helpful ie I don't know what a JLC is.

A padlock on the outside? I hope you never misplace that key!

I have had good luck with lorsa movements. But be careful with the hairspring. You can destroy one by looking at it wrong. Don't even think about letting the balance dangle..not even for an instant!

Uh...I don't mean to sound condescending. But if this is your first watch. Put it aside for now.I was 18 once, as long ago as it was!get some practice on a few watches of negligible value. There is a touch to watch repair. I know from experience it took me a while to learn it.I ruined a few early on through my own impatience and heavy hand. You are in the right spot to learn..you have chanced upon a great bunch..however if you feel confident to proceed. Pictures would help.

Another unloved USSR made Sekonda 17 jewel, with date, no other bids, lined up for potential 404 club membership. A clean, service, polish and an attractive leather band, should do wonders for it. These are very under rated watches in my opinion, once serviced, and cleaned, they are solid as the proverbial "brick dunny", and turn in very respectable accuracy.

I'm fortunate to own one of these Seiko QT-99 Quartztesters, it might be about 45 years old but it is brilliant, you can even time LCD watches, conventional quartz watches and even electric/electronic hybrid mechanical watches with it, even managed to time a Timex jump minute hand quartz watch that only gives one pulse every 60 seconds (set the gate time to 120 seconds instead of the usual 10 seconds) Shown here with a vintage JDM Seiko 3862 from 1973, 0.1 seconds a day, not bad for a nearly 50 year old watch... Been a really good investment...

That's a question for someone more advanced then me.

nice job ! is thre a quarts mvt. than can be fit into an accutron, space view watch case .? vin

Here are just a few of my homemade dials I would like to know your thoughts.

Just finished a vintage build with correct working seconds at the six position. Hard to find a good reissue so I made my own with a aftermarket case and a dial made by me from scratch. logo is also my logo. Looks very professional maybe I could get some opinions from you guys. I have 25 more dials with different designs from single sub seconds to 2 and 3 eye chronographs. Its hard to find the cases I want. I guess I will settle with aftermarket cases for now and modify them.

How about this custom dial that's not a decal but made by hand and lacquered and lumed by me

I recommend however to learn replacing the end stud to the arm. I found it unnerving as well, and even opened a thread here without much solution, until I realized that using angled tweezers makes the job much easier. You can practice at will on the damaged hairsping.